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Hey, I found the receipt, it says GSX600R/750R 2004-2005. But it is aftermarket, I don't know more than that. It MAY be made by a company called Kellermann. I do have a part number but that is just for this local distributor in Sweden. Anyway maybe that will get you started. The bolt holes that fit to the tool tray and rearmost fender mounts/tail light should be OK even if you find a slightly different product, I guess. The plate holder came with an additional X bracket that supports the whole plate but it was too large for our stylish Swedish plates and as you see in the picture my plate is fine with just the upper mounts. Edit: Doesn't seem to be Kellermann, their's is here but it doesn't look like mine at all.

I'm like that too so I bought a spare one from Reboot Guzzi Spares. Likewise with the airbox lid before I cut holes in it, and the downpipe before I welded in a lambda sensor... I will never get use for them but somehow it's nice to know I can make the bike a pristine original again. Especially in 25 years from now...

This is with hugger and ugly OEM fender. This is after fender is cut down to invisible. Hard to see, er, but there is nothing to see! It's just gone. Reflector, indicators, plate light just fits like it was OEM (personally I don't like tiny LED indicators). I photochopped[tm] the registration number a little in this pic All mounting holes in this Suzuki bracket just happened to fit! Here you can see my not very straight cut of the fender, but it can't be seen at all from normal angles. I cut it down just so the original mounts was still there. Note the triangular area where the damper satellite is mounted, that hole being opened makes a lot to the bikes look! Not so much from this particular angle though

I bought a CF hugger from Stein-Dinse in Germany. I don't like CF and it was damn expensive (about 200 euro IIRC) but they couldn't deliver the plastic one. Even the CF one took half a year to deliver. Then I bought a black plate bracket that was made for some kind of Suzuki or something. Amazingly it happened to have holes fitting everything: Four holes for mounting to existing screws, the indicators fit to it, and even the reflector between the plate and the tail light fit without drilling. The original plate light works as intended. It's like it is made for this, except the angle of the plate was too upright so I had to fix that with small bits of a pipe cut in an angle and used as washers behind the plate. My english limits a better description I kept the OEM rear fender but cut away all of it that was visible. This way it still protects the bottom of the rear section. The result is just perfect, in my own opinion . A friend of mine found the plate bracket so he gets the credit for that. He didn't keep the original fender but used some sort of rubber mat tied up to the rear sub frame. I'll try to produce some pictures.

Just swap all relays (of the same type) around, in a round-robin fashion. See if the fault moves with them. It's one of the easiest check one can do! Stalling in traffic is not fun. I once had a sudden stall in the middle of several lanes in a tunnel, in lots of traffic. I made an extremely quick decision to just pull the clutch and throw the bike to the side between cars so I ended up in a better position. I'm pretty sure I'd been ran over by a truck if I had hesitated three seconds more and lost the maneuvering speed.

I agree with that... ...and this fixed it! Now it's looking pretty nice.

I'm pretty sure I almost never need my cooler, but it does have a thermostat so there's no point in blanking it off unless it is damaged.

Just mark the exact position it was before you mess with it. And be sure to understand how it works. Most important: if it's like a 5-speeder, if you unwind it too much the spring will climb off its' guide, and you'll need to open the box. Doing the latter is much easier on a six speeder I suppose.

Last spring my bike had been completely in pieces. After my first trip (when still hot) I loosened all exhaust clamps, gave everything a couple knocks with a rubber sledge and tightened it up. I don't know how good that was but it shouldn't hurt.

The specs are for racing. My Sporti is a road bike but WHB adds that for "continuos usage at high speed" I should replace the drive shaft at 1,000 kms Hell, I grease it at 5,000 kms! Give that a thought. The shaft is just fine after 55,000 kms and I don't intend to replace it even after 100,000 kms unless I find something's wrong with it. Maybe at 150,000 or 200,000 kms I would consider replacing it for the mileage alone.

I agree with Tom and GuzziMoto. On top of that, one advantage with a PCIII over a custom map in your OEM ECU is that you can switch map back and forth yourself, it's very easy. The best solution would be to load one map for track days and load another one when you fit the Mistrals. Of course there is the issue of having the equipment (like a laptop) but I think I recall there is the alternative to bring the PCIII inside, to your stationary computer and run it off a 9V battery while changing map? Edit: are you actually saying you don't have a Quat-D? I first read it as you use a Quat-D for track days. If you really only run Mistrals, using a map for Quat-D is just plain wrong I'd guess!

Just get rid of the bulb then

Most V11 owners will skip this thread based on the subject line and unfortunately I can't help you out. Maybe you'll get an answer if you repost in a new thread. Your WHB can be found at http://www.thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_...11_en_de_ne.pdf but it doesn't tell. You should download that anyway if you don't already have it!

I don't know the stock settings, but I know I'm happy with 14 'clicks' in from fully out, both sides. 8 clicks is one full turn so that is more or less in the middle (but I have experimented a fair amount with it, starting from lower). I'm lightweight, just under 70 kg with no gear. I have ran into really nasty bumps in high speed turns without it letting me down. Until you get the feel for everything, experiment with it but keep them at equal setting. I once had them at 8 clicks, but accidently counted them from the other direction on one side (so it was more like 20 clicks on that side). That really screwed up handling, I got slow oscillation in curves which was pretty scary. Oh, and congrats, you have got yourself a wonderful bike!

http://www.schnorr.com/safetywashers.html

The Centauro forum part list says you can use a socket from some unspecified Volvo (plastic ones wont fit but metal one will) as well as "Mercedes throttle rod end, p/n 000 991 88 22"

I didn't know that. That is good to know and it makes my idea even more silly

Phil_A posted this on the cog forum. Where I live there would be a decimal point after the first digit. Having it after the second digit would be way cool. But this sign does not have a decimal point at all.

I was thinking a really anal winter preparation (you know, wheels off ground, new cheapo oil inside that you will replace after just a thorough warmup etc) could include that you find a home-brewn mark at the flywheel where all valves are closed. I'm not saying I would do it (I don't do much of the other stuff except drain the polluted oil immediately) but it would be pretty easy. But now that I think of it, if I'm not mistaken there is no such spot in the 720 degree cycle on a Guzzi. If there was, it would be a nice place to set the engine at when setting the valve clearance. I need a ride. Not far away now. Bike is almost done, temperatures are climbing.

That will bring the kg/hp ratio just barely in the lines of your Guzzi

The upper-most picture in this recent thread of mine just happens to picture a spring, underneath the TB. I can't imagine you lost both of them!

This is a silly little theoretical topic that has tumbled around among my few brain cells for a while, while commuting in a cage. I can't really figure it out myself. Not that I need to know I can't even figure out why I'm asking this. Say you find an Ambo that sat 25 years in a barn. Say the cam just happened to have stopped in a position where some valve springs were at more or less max compression. Compare that scenario to the Ambo in the neighbour barn that happen to have settled in a position where all springs are at max rest. And now, the 10.000 rubel question: will the springs that were compressed be ruined? How ruined? How bad is it, doctor? Would it matter if it was three or fifty years? And, for the non-metallurgists, a slightly different question: what are the odds of either of this happening?

Yes I think I have even seen someone claiming they set ±2 mV and while that can't harm anything, IMHO it simply can not be a good investment of time. Hello, it will jump 10 mV if your wife farts in the other end of your garden. It drifts 10ths of mV if you start the engine (it should not since there is a 5V regulator that doesn't care much if the input voltage is 11 or 14 volts. I guess it is due to ground offsets). Also, I don't think the OEM ECU's has a lot more resolution in their ADC's than Cliff's MyECU which is 10 bit. That means a resolution of about 5 mV. Spend two hours more to set it ±2 mV and the ADC will still read the same. Spend yet another 4 hours to set it to ±1 mV and the ADC will still read the very same. What is the point? It's like calibrating your spark plug gap to 1/1000 mm or your tire pressure to 0.01 psi. I may be wrong but I doubt it.

Same as the others. M6, 10 Nm (7-8 lbft for Americanos). Or, much easier to remember, a quarter of a turn less than stripping

The fuel pump is a positive replacement type with internal over pressure valve. It will not stop running if the filter is clogged. A friend of mine had a clogged filter on a '97 Ducati. He had never replaced it. The sympthoms where fuel starving at high loads/rpm but no sympthoms at all at during startup or idle. He just couldn't overtake anything running faster than 70 km/h... We could diagnose it on that 2 second fuel pump sound when turning on ignition though. It sounded like a slow ddaaaaaammmmnn instead of a happy yipeeeeeeee.