raz

For the record: when measured more carefully, the intermediate plate was warped 0.7 mm that explains some clonking and shift problems!

Not having any specific answers, but actually I was thinking just a couple of hours ago the 2008 Norge is probably pretty much sorted, with some modifications to known problems. What I do not know is how many of those problems are being fixed at recalls on '06 and '07 bikes without the owners fighting very hard for it, and maybe that is even more interesting in a way, even if I were to buy a '08.

That's great, did you have problems or are you perhaps running closed loop now?

I look forward to reading your results and that Guzzitech Article. You checked the inside of the tank and its mesh filter too, right? It would be a pity to clog the new gear immediately.

I've heard (second hand) the opposite too: people trying to quickly clear their car windshield from ice, in say -20°C (~0°F) using a hose or a bucket, with hot water... go figure Uh-uh sorry that was quite the opposite if this thread subject

It shouldn't be impossible to find a replacement for just the plastic half of it and leave tha ball as is. Still, I can't see how a little play would hurt as long as you don't use the RH idle screw. And as long as it doesn't separate on its' own

FWIW, my first hit when I googled for what oil temperature would be damaging, was http://www.abc.net.au/science/k2/trek/4wd/june99_1.htm The second half of that story is quite interesting... the oil wouldn't even come out at the bottom Oh, and I know how to get room for a fan behind the cooler. Just ditch the headlight:

Great!

That is great, is there part numbers for o-rings and stuff for TB's too?

Yes it seems the only thing listed is a complete TB assembly, at about the price of a complete used bike from eBay . My guess is you'll have much quicker and cheaper results replacing it with some non-OEM stuff. Where is the problem, the ball joint? Shouldn't be a major problem to find something similar. On the other hand, some play shouldn't matter much as long as there is tension. Is your RH idle screw backed out?

FWIW, the pressure sensor outputs a linear voltage (it's three-wired with its' own +5 and ground) between 0 and 5 volts. Volt mmHg mBar 0.250 127.5 170 4.750 787.5 1050

Bird, while you are welcome here this is really a spine-frame V11 forum. Your chances of getting answers for your questions will probably be much higher at Guzzi Exchange or GuzziTech.com

Welcome back Juha! I read all about your MyECU history before buying one myself. I think, if nothing else, it is a cool bodge and good out-of-the-box thinking I can't see any reason it wouldn't work. But that doesn't necessarily mean it will work out extremely well. If you try it with good results, please come back here and tell! I guess the ECU won't damp the pressure signal so if you can set that in the sensor controller (with LC-1 you can) it may mute some noise. Also, with the LC-1 you can set what voltage you want in an error-condition or warm-up. You would want to set that at like 0% fuel trim. Good luck!

I think a primary risk is the oil getting so hot it gets permanently destroyed - and that could have secondary effects on the engine if not replaced in due time. I have a dipstick thermometer. Looks nice and lets me check oil temp if I'm worried (the only times I have been worried was in severe traffic jams in hot weather). I think approaching the end of this scale (130°C or 265°F) will destroy the oil. But as long as you're moving I don't think there is much to worry about.

It seems an "upgrade" to deep splines just consists of new friction plates and a new clutch boss. So either you just take the friction plates from the Cali if you have them or buy new ones. And that's it if I read it right. Other stuff like the intermediate plate will fit either one.

As far as I understand (as an amateur, I just recently had a similar question and did some research) you can use the Cali trans with its' new-style clutch boss and just replace the friction plates to new-style too. I guess you could do it the other way round but that has obvious disadvantages.

I just realised the ECUControl will happily transpose the map when I alter RPM or TPS breakpoints. Way cool for comparing stuff. I think I managed to translate the OEM throttle degrees to TPS readings and I dialled in a reasonable dead time. The resulting MyECU map looks perfectly sane. This will be very interesting, as the EPROM I had in my OEM turned out to be a custom one (PO mentioned something vague about that IIRC). Now I really hope to be able to determine why that ECU is so extremely powerful at WOT compared to any other map I've come up with. Provided it didn't get lost in translation

I must confess I never tried lutefisk, but I seriously doubt it will be worse than surströmming. Of course, I never tried that either. Several airlines have actually banned the cans on flights. Thank God for refridgerators.

OK, thanks. I'll look into it. For future readers interested in this, the english instructions is at guzzitech.dk

That would not result in damping, would it? I think there should be a tight obstacle and then wider again. Also, because our damping will slow down response a bit, I thought connecting both cylinders would help a little against that. Though maybe this slowdown is not an issue at all. My Carbtune has much tighter dampers than 0.030" if I remember correctly, and the response on the gauge is immediate. The hoses after the dampers are much longer than in this application.

I believe (on the same vague basis as you) that no Sporti or V11 ever came with it installed from the factory. I do believe that Cali P8-equipped had them installed, but actually I have no particular evidence of that either. Maybe what killed it was the US canister thingies. When they had to use the nipples for that they quit connecting the regulator. For some reason they quit connecting it for the non-canister bikes too.

I have tried to determine what (size) nipples were used with the P8 bikes, but without success. The ones I have ordered are normal ones with no damping. Maybe I will need to add dampers as those used in my Carbtune. But I suspect they will damp far too much, delaying the acc-pump effect. The canister nipples should be better, or maybe even those are too small. Note to self: 0.030" is 0.75 mm. Hmm, of course, I could put it all togeather but connect the regulator side of it to a gauge and see how it looks.

It may very well be me jumping to conclusions, I don't have qualified knowledge. Also, the text just explains the system, it's not really a spec. This is the exact quote from a V11 WHB: "Finally, from a hydraulic point of view, upon a fuel compression of 3±0,2 bar, the jet brakes down as soon as it comes out from the nozzle (atomizing), thereby forming a cone of about 30°." It does say the pressure should not exceed 3.2 bar or go below 2.8 bar, but it's not very clear what happens else.

Thanks Ernst. I saw that too though I recall cutting all of them from the inside. Even so, I find that a bit scary. My impression is most people don't have the warping problem so my first shot will be to use it as is. I do have a proper clutch spring preloading tool, so I hope that will do the trick.