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It's not heavy, I removed mine and cleaned it last winter. No drama at all. My original intention was to open it up and check bearings and stuff but I failed to pry it open and since I had no real reason to, I postponed that. Nice plans, don't miss Trollstigen and Geiranger in Norway!

Ouch, I'm glad I got one before that! Be sure to avoid grounding offsets. See Jens' pages for some ideas on mounting. I stuffed the LED and buttons into the My16M box, but your My15M may be tighter. Also, I regret being unable to use LC-1 with my OEM ECU for comparisons. I'll make a separate little box like Jens did, instead. I used the original headlight relay for driving the heater (my actual headlight power is separately relayed) except for calibration, where I use the ECU relay instead. Also, for any "lower voltage is richer" setup (like the default) don't forget putting a negative sign on all voltages in ECU config. I forgot that (even though I knew) so I had to nurse the bike home at almost idle (open loop) to fix it. Speaking of MyECU, I just carefully verified the Optimiser TPS figures versus actual TPS mV, so in the future I'll be able to recalibrate it without hooking up a multimeter and splicing into wires. Then again this setting is not very important until you want to hook up an OEM for some reason. Baseline TPS (no fast idle, no linkage, no idle screw): 150-165 mV equals a reading of 30-33 Idle TPS (linkage connected, 2.1 degrees throttle set with idle screw): 378 mV reads 77 For a V11 the second value would be more like 3.2-3.6 degrees (490-532 mV) which comes out as a reading of 100-109. The figures exactly matches what they should in theory which don't surprise me at all, but the resolution is a fifth of a multimeter with three decimals.

It's not very complicated. Do you have a proper Workshop Manual (not the owners manual)? If not they are downloadable for free at various places around the web. In this case you'll be fine with one for a slightly different model, if that's what you find first. I think the leftmost sponsor at the top of this page (MPH cycles) have some of them. Maybe they only have parts manuals, but that's enough for a lot of jobs and you'll want one of those anyway. In the long run you may want to buy printed copies of them, if you tend to not leave all and any jobs to the dealer. Also, for this and most any other job you could think of, be sure to try the forum search functions. There are loads and loads of information, including pics, in here, of which plenty is not printed in any manual. Of course you're still welcome with any questions!

Number 1 tip, do not give up. You may end up really really regretting that. Do you mean the frontmost one very hard to get at, and you did the other two? My bike is a bit different but I'm pretty sure it is possible on any V11 without removing the wheel. Maybe you should get another nozzle for you grease gun. Failing that, removing the wheel is actually no drama.

This is his too Some more is on http://www.guzzitech.dk/

If it's too loud, you're too old

No it's just a bad translation. This is the same text from the P8 manual: And here is your pic from the same manual, which also confirms that. They even use a T and both manifolds.

I have thought about that one back and forth too. As I have a WBO sensor I could try it and datalog the results. This is from my WHB: I'm not sure about that last sentence but are they not saying we should connect that port to the manifold? But unlike in the older P8 manual no such hose is showed on any picture or mentioned except for that cryptic sentence. The regulator will simply set the fuel pressure to 3 bar above whatever pressure is in that reference port. So, anyone have any clue on the range of intake manifold negative pressure? Is it peaking like 0.1 bar or 1 bar or what? And one thing really bothers me: anyone that has tried to synch the TB's without a LOT of damping in the hoses will know what I mean... what would the fuel pressure at the injectors look like with that shock-waves as regulator input?! The ECU doesn't have a MAP sensor so it's limited too. On the other hand, it does know the throttle position, so it can make a good guess I suppose. Not the OEM I think. Not the WM16 anyway. The PCIIIUSB have it (can be downloaded for free) and MyECU has it.

As long as he's using Orange Okie's jiggly workaround, the problem might actually go away. But eventually the workarounds themselves will need overhaul

I removed my petcock once and there were lots of stuff in the screen. Sorry for hijacking this thread but as Dave just answered the questions and it is related: My fuel lines are braided and I guess OEM, ie. over 10 years old. I don't have any problems with them yet but the fact they are braided will effectively stop me from inspecting their health until too late. What are your opinions on this? I'm thinking of replacing them with non-braided. Pros and cons?

I'm not sure about the starter relay on a V11 but on my Sporti it's just one of four identical relays that sits in sockets under the seat. I think on a V11 you may have three or four identical plus one of another type. An easy test (even without really understanding what you are doing) when having any electrical problem, is to switch all identical relays around. If problem moves, you are on to something. The solenoid is like a massive relay, built-in to the starter. The starter can draw incredible amounts of current which is why you have to switch it in the solenoid (which in turn is drawn by a smaller relay, the Starter Relay) instead of routing it through the ignition switch and starter button. They would catch fire if they were handling that kind of energy. From your later description it sounds to me your problem is neither relay or solenoid though.

Maybe you should add these to the poll: Starter relay Solenoid Low battery, that is, an end-of-life battery OR a good battery that doesn't get proper charging for whatever reason. It appears in some cases this is not as obvious as one would think. But the only problem I've had with the starter was the need of a helicoil for one of its mount points...

The initial thought was to make a CHT/EGT vs power and mixture graph specifically for Guzzi V11. Not a permanent mount. I'm not sure it will be usable at all and if it wasn't for the snow outside I'd be riding instead of having this discussion Like with CHT/EGT it would be nice to see that spark advance graph specifically from a Guzzi V11. If it's that flat, our current map should really be good enough. Some of you may now say "I told you so" Maybe all this will eventually boil down to me just targetting lambda 0.95 and forget about further tweaking.

Or even better, infer pressure from ionization current. If we can talk Cliff into stuffing that in MyECU, he'd kill all competition This is really interesting reading: http://www.vehicular.isy.liu.se/Publicatio..._PhD_580_LE.pdf Maybe I got it from this forum and we're looping now. Anyway he used such pressure sensor to verify his work. Cool stuff.

http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=611 Disregard the first (yahoo) link, go for the second post.

That makes sense... it should be 10.287 mm with a 1.06 mm pitch. Interesting! Adapters for M10x1 to 1/8" NPT seem pretty common. Like here. Not that I understand how they would look considering the above!? They seem really good but a little pricey... $245 or even $285 for having it thermally ungrounded I guess? Maybe I could use something like this for $58. Specs 2200°F (1200°C), 500ms response time. This variant of it could be installed near the exhaust without a bung (you just drill a 3/16" hole).

I'm still thinking about how to measure EGT in a Quick'n'Dirty™ but still Good Enough™ way. For some reason there are M10x1 bungs in the downpipes from factory. Unfortunately they sit in the wrong end of them, like 50 cm from the exhaust. If I put temporary sensors there, how inaccurate or slow would they read? Of course, it would be much more influenced by varying cooling and stuff but for short-term comparisons or on a dyno perhaps it might suffice. One spin-off effect is I will know the temp near my lambda sensor, which might be a good thing to know. If this won't be good enough, I might still be able to use the bungs for some thin sensor that goes 45 cm up the pipe on the inside...

I would love a DIY-ECU together with stepper motor butterflies though. Way cool to mess with. Think cruise control, for instance. A real one, not friction to the roller. Or lugging-prevention. No, on second thought I don't want lugging-prevention. Once I barely got away from getting my car squashed by a fire engine (water tank, high speed, lots of tons) by just pushing my right foot almost through the floor on the (highest) gear that happened to be engaged, and praying very very fast I often wonder what the heck I would buy if I ever lose my Sporti for whatever reason. It will not probably ever be newer than a V11. At least as long as I can only afford one bike.

If the sensor is 1/8", how could it fit an 1/8" NPT bung? No wait, let me guess. Plumbers, right? 1/8" does not refer to the actual thread size but to the inner diameter of a standard pipe with that outer thread?

Today I was so bored I read the manual for LogWorks, a datalogger software included with my LC-1 lambda sensor. It was all normal up to the last page, which starts this way: I was totally unprepared and had a good laugh In case anyone wonders, the rest of the page covers how to build a sensor for logging down-force on wings.

Thanks. The ones I refered to from my googling are thermocouples and I knew the actual wire junction is thin but it seems it's commonly put it a wider tube. But I misinterpreted some pictures, they are thinner than I thought. A fairly common bung thread size seem to be 1/8" and I didn't parse that before but now when thinking about it, thats just a couple of mm and the actual obstacle is maybe less than a third of that, like 1 mm. Maybe I was also mislead by someone else refering to how much of the cross-section area they take because that was in the context of a tiny kart downpipe. So, a 1 mm obstacle half-way through in a 42 mm ID downpipe, that's roughly 1.5% of the area. Maybe that can be disregarded. Checking out Omega though, when searching for pipe plug probes I only find 1/4" NPT with probe size of 6.4 mm. That would be just the 10% I was guesstimating, if my dilettant skills count it right. OTOH, 6.4 mm is roughly (and even larger than) 1/4" so I wonder if that's really the size of the protruding probe (obstacle). Then there is unsheathed ones and they are really thin but I'm not sure how I would apply one. Probably the 1/8" kart type is good, cheap and easy enough. Stay tuned. Or even better: chime in, take the lead and shut me up!

I don't even know how to develop stuff for my Loox and it drains its batteries before my Guzzi warms up. Also, it doesn't have a serial port nor USB (as a host). Sure, there are ways around that but I don't want to focus on that. My laptop is an incredibly small Thinkpad X41 and the current plan is doing it Perl. On the other hand, maybe there is a Perl interpreter for PPC? I would be surprised if there isn't. I sure will share my code for free whenever it reaches any state of usability. I'm into Glühwine now. Merry christmas

The sum of knowledge owned by the members of this forum never cease to astonish me OK, the keywords here are "good enough" and we're interested in relative temperatures, not calibrated absolute ones. A standard EGT sensor mounted with a bung is probably good enough. From what you say I guess an outside one is not. One problem with internal ones is that they will make an obstacle in the pipe, taking as much as 10%, or more, of the cross-section area. If nothing else, this probably means we want to put one in each downpipe. Any conclusions gathered this way could be said to not necessarily be valid without that obstacle in the downpipe, I guess.

It seems a common type of CHT sensors for carts or airplanes are replacing the spark plug washer and cost like $20. EGT sensors seem a bit more expensive and you have to weld another bung. I'm not too keen on that. I wonder how inaccurate a sensor epoxied to the outside of the downpipe would be... Of course it wont be as fast and accurate as one inside.

but of course. Temporary failure in my head. I'm planning to write a simple datalogger for my laptop that logs timestamped ECU output, GPS speed and LC-1 output. If that Beltronics thingy can output to a computer too it would be a cool complement. Actually my Thinkpad laptop contains an accelerometer. Maybe I could use it some way.