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I've had my share of problems but I put it down to overfilling and/or venting. The Sporti comes without a vent, almost everybody I know has fitted one. Last year my vent was plugged causing the seals to blow lots of red goo everywhere but they didn't take permanent damage - after fixing the vent it doesn't leak one drop. Possibly because I bought the seals... now they just take up shelf space. Anyway it's almost impossible to fully drain RLSPH even if it's hot. Maybe one should find out a smaller volume for refilling, that ends up at a correct level.

When you say 14.6 are you refering to the voltage with bike running, I find as soon as I shut of the voltage drops to around 12.85 Yes, of course. My WHB says the charging voltage should be 14.0-14.6 volts and the Hawker battery spec. says you should never charge the battery with more than 15 volts (but virtually no limit on current, the more the better). Actually, reading that PDF again I think it says 14.7 volts would be better than 14.9 volts. 12.84 volts @25ºC indicates a very healthy and 100% charged AGM battery. The reading should ideally be taken after 6 hours rest, after charging

They were mounted, I haven't tried lifting any of the PCB's but I have desoldered the diodes on one. I had to set the iron for 450*C which is not a good thing, but otherwise there was no chance I could desolder them. I don't recall ever having needed a larger iron than 40W for anything. Maybe the potting is very good at transfering heat. For the record, the three regulators I've looked at all had a combined value of about 450 ohms, with the trim resistor being 2K4 in one case and 2K7 in two cases. This indicates all three have a component side resistor of 560 ohms (assuming E24) even though I've only confirmed that on one of them. Not that the exact numbers matter much, the important thing is that higher ohms results in higher voltage. Personally I would aim for 14.6 volts if trying to trim the voltage, as that is the high end of the WHB spec (for my bike anyway) and you trade bulb life for good charging. If we only care about battery life, 14.9 volts should be the optimal (for a Hawker AGM, that is).

Just my own... cause your bikes don't even have a metal tank!

Do you mean I connect 15VDC should give nothing? And then reverse poles on the input. I guess that should work. With a variable supply I could even spot the switch point. No wait, I could put the reference wire to a voltage divider potentiometer! And use a 15VDC or higher source. This might be a plan. Maybe it's better just hooking it up properly to my bike though. This will test all of it at once. It's just that I would need to pull fairing and tank - and then mount the tank again for a test run, and then remove it again, and...

That's reasonable. If you get 18V then all components work as they should, besides the regulator circuit wich obviously fails to open the rectifier at 14/15V. The internals get damp after some years, salt and other nasty things get in as well and as a result migration often starts bridging parts and even wires. Putting mine into the kitchen oven at 120°C for some hours cured the 17V problem. Probably temporarily, but for this summer it works. Hubert I can't see how the potting could fail to keep moisture out (looked really tight everywhere and no cracks), but maybe you are right. I'll aim for some active tests. BTW I tried re-soldering most components on the PCB's in case there was hard-to-spot soldering faults. My 40W Weller iron is far too weak for the diodes and external wire solders. I need to buy a cheap-ish heavier iron for them. Not sure how much power is needed. I remember my dad had a huge soldering iron that was probably capable of soldering tin cans, that one would have come handy

Thanks. Is there an easy way to measure an SCR for good/bad? I don't see normal diode test readings on any of them (not even ones known good). Two of my busted regulators had the alleged fault of giving 17-18 volts of charge but I can't see anything wrong and all resistor/diode/path tests show good. I would have guessed a busted SCR would measure out like a four inch nail but they don't seem to do that. Maybe I need to connect AC to those regulators and do an active test.

Thanks, I'll give it a try tonight. Cutting that corner of the PCB may be a very good idea. There's no tracks on the other side, right? OK, now I've also got two busted ones with that green rubber-like potting. Much easier. There is no way I can lift the PCB from the one with black potting without breaking it to very small pieces of debris but I should be able to get to the diodes or fit one diode externally. Another question as I'm a bit rusty (or just plain stupid): The charging system is 350W, or "14V 25A". That means I can use 25A diodes, right? (ignoring margins for the sake of discussion)? Edit: All three busted regulators I have has the same part no, 343637. Except for the potting there is no difference I can see except the voltage trim resistor happened to be 2K7 on both newer ones while the oldest one had a 2K4. That one was damaged so I'm replacing it with a 2K7 too, hoping for a slight voltage boost.

Googling for k-line produces quite a few false hits. Here is one correct description: http://www.cylinderh...e-guide-liners/ Most head shops will know what you are talking about.

OK, today I started working on my old one as there is a fellow needing it. Sure enough, I could measure a 400mV drop diode between one yellow and red, but not from the other yellow. This is just what was expected given the sympthoms (too weak at low revs). I definitely needed to heat the potting, it was like cheramics! I heated using a hot air gun set at 200°C for more than half an hour (I think the resulting temp was less than 100°C, it didn't hurt much touching it). This made the potting soft enough I could cut it and pry it away. Funny enough, now it measures out good. Possibly all the heating made things better. I won't trust that of course, I need to inspect the diodes. Now leads are unsoldered but I'm gonna study your PDF's before I proceed. Can I really pry the PCB out without damaging components? I think I need to heat it for an hour again before trying that. Or put the cooling fins in boiled water.

That's perfect. I was worried you had like 18 volts or something at revs. Great, you are probably set. I haven't noticed such increase but you are probably looking much harder now than everybody else

Aha, that may be a difference between our bikes. I guess my tank is narrower. Anyway regardless of screw heads I just push the TPS down hard with a finger once it's fine, and tighten up gently. I think it's harder to get the valve lash spot on. Why oh why did they not use a fine pitch thread for the valve adjuster screw?! That's for sure. And a mistuned bike will, for example, probably not run very good with a generic V11 map for PCIII either, so that route is not a good way of cheating.

Maybe a bad grounding somewhere causes all of the problems. Try running an extra ground wire from tacho housing to the engine block, for a starter. Edit: no, it must be a +12 missing like Roy said.

IMHO better tool control is precisely what Torx is about. Provided you do have a Torx tool of course, and not try using a hex drive that almost fits.

Yes, you loosen the pinch bolt around the body of the damper and slide it through a bit further so it hits the end stop before you get contact. I only know this because mine was perfect until I took it off, when I put it back I wasn't fussy enough Stop it right there. You must NOT use the steering damper as a steering stop! It's not built to take that. Modify the real stop instead if needed. The damper is there to damp quick movements like a tank slapper. If this happens when incorrectly mounted like you describe, you will break the mounts.

Somehow it look modern but ancient. What's with that front grill, is there a carosene lamp behind it?

This is a long shot but check your battery voltage at revs. It should be 14.0-14.6 volts. In case your regulator is screwed it may be far too high. Might break things.

I ride wet'n'dry and occasionally some really inspired riding but mostly very long touring trips. I've used Metzeler Z6 since I bought the bike, not wanting to even try anything else cause they were so good. But this spring I switched to Pirelli Diablo Strada because they are a little less expensive, the name sounds better on an Italian bike and they should be pretty much the same tyre anyway since they come from the same factory. I can't tell any difference at all. For my use, Z6 and Diablo Strada are excellent and they last forever. I didn't even know about the Angel ST until know, will try them next time.

+1 Any bike (even a UJM) can be a problem bike. Any bike (even a Guzzi) can be sorted. If I trade my 14 year old bike with 80,000 kms on the clock against ANY new bike, I won't be able to trust the new one for quite some time. I take my 1997 Sporti for two-week, 5000-7000 km rides and I'm confident with it. Sure, sometimes things happen. Once, an oil cooler banjo let loose from its hose. It was fixable with an adjustable spanner (removed the cooler and shorted it with the good hose). This year the clutch wire started to self destruct (bad aftermarket one) but I had an old good one somewhere in my bags, that had been replaced only for scuffed outer lining so I kept it as a spare. But a serious breakdown just won't happen. And even if it would, it's bound to end up as a good campfire story.

I don't really expect any luck with this, but anyways. I'm looking for a carbon fiber instrument housing that was formerly produced by DÄS Mototec for the 1100 Sport. They don't produce it anymore. An alternative would be to place a group order to DÄS so they make a batch.

Have a look at the sockets too. Blow away dust and old contact grease with compressed air, spray with contact cleaner (not 556 or the likes) and put a little vaseline (battery pole grease) on them before installing the relays. Especially if the problem comes back with new relays. I can't see why it wouldn't.

You don't physically set the TPS, it's just a software setting (eg. using VDSTS). You can sync TBs but you need a VDSTS afterwards to set TPS. http://forum.guzzitech.com/forum/topic.html?f=189&t=1613

Guzzi p/n seems to be 01105460 (while the solenoid one is 29105460).

Well the tank is much smaller, so it's a slightly unfair comparison. Anyway, the exhaust can save several kgs too. But it is still very light so there's something more to it!

I think the dog looked jealous