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Searched a lot more, found nothing. I would have guessed there was a spec. sheet for the injectors with such data. Apparently it depends too much on other parameters (like how you drive them) so it would be of no use. Anyway, most all figures I saw for other injectors was about 1 ms @ 12V (just wot you said Cliff ) I did find http://www.yawpower.com/injectordynamics.html who can flow test my very injectors for USD 100. That would be interesting, but anal. I'm not THAT interested. You compared the 15M OEM to the 15M Ti, or what? The spark advance table is what got me started. The rest is just out of curiosity. I have an ignition table you posted long time ago, have you tweaked it more since then? I've read the long old ECU thread several times and I'm still very curious what values the LSU4.2 would produce compared to the EGA O2 and CO figures Derek posted in his examples. Also, what will happen in the following scenario (using MyECU): 1. Ignition advance is just the original ball-park figure 2. Map is tuned in closed loop to, say lambda 0.9 3. Some magic way we now find out the optimal advance for this coordinate (say it's three degrees more advance) 4. Run closed-loop again Will the sensor now show a higher lambda for the previously tuned pulsewidth (final death to all references to AFR), meaning the closed loop will take advantage of the spark advance by richening the fuel? Just like that? If so, we really have to invent (or re-invent) autotune for ignition advance

Sure, I'll post them when I have known originals. Dave, does your software allow you to see the injector dead time table? I'm pretty sure there must be one in the 1.6M but the various softwares I've got does not show it. I've tried googling for nominal figures for my IW031 injectors (V11 seems to have the same) but haven't found any yet. Not that I really need one when running closed loop, but [insert Ratch's favourite ending here]

My tacho shows same as Optimiser too. So the tacho is probably not perfect when using the OEM ECU, I'll have to remember that when trying to make conclusions. I'm getting the feel it will be hard to draw conclusions from this project at all but anyway it's a lot more fun than Sudoku, and more figures!

Thanks. He seems busy inspecting fur, or lack of it, in France I'll try and PM him.

Thanks, that's good to know. I'll sort it out. I'd like the upgrade please! Another question for you: I've read about people having tacho's reading some 200 rpm high. If my tacho reading is the same as the Optimiser rpm reading, it should mean I can trust the tacho (in terms of offset) when using either ECU, right?

I'm looking for a dump file of an original EPROM from an 1100 Sport (1.6M) ECU. I found one on the 'net that is supposed to be a Guzzi but not confirmed a Sporti. Anyone have one, please submit it here (if that is possible? It's pretty small) or a link somewhere external, or PM me for my email address. Thanks in advance. I suspect my OEM ECU has an aftermarket EPROM. One of the reasons is it has just a hand-written label saying 'Sp1100'. I will dump mine to file and I want to compare it to a known OEM. Another reason I want one is I recently realized there are programs to read it and present the maps. That means I can have my My16M mimic the OEM which would be an interesting test in how the software differ in interpolation etc. Also, I'm curious to see how the ignition advance curves differ (or not) from a V11 non-cat 1.5M.

Apparently the * setting sets the charging level/threshold to 14.7V instead of 14.4V. I added a link to the instructions in my post above. It even mentions Odysseys specifically!

I've got one too and I've been very happy with it despite I thought it wasn't really the utlimate one for this battery. Now I just read through its instructions as well as some Hawker stuff around the 'net and it turns out the CTEK actually is perfect for the application. What I did not know is you should use it in the * snowflake mode for AGM batteries, for best results. I have used it in 'motorcycle' mode before. Regarding the Deltran/Hawker conflict it smells like a vendetta not anchored in tehnical reasons. Deltran is probably fine too. The CTEK is dirt cheap though, if you're paranoid and want to switch.

I may be wrong as always but I'm pretty sure what you say regarding intake manifold size and valves only applies to 1100 Sport carb. while the injected 1100 Sport has the same valves and TBs as the V11. I think the only difference between a Sporti and a V11 engine (except for the gearbox) is the ECU, the TPS sensor and the temp sensors.

You sure it fits a 15M ECU? That kind of thing was included on 16M bikes, strap tied to the harness so you can plug it in whenever needed. I have tried it but I'm not sure it's that useful. Edit: Hm, no, on my 16M bike the LED is permanently fitted and you plug in a jumper to use it. Anyway it's the same principle.

In short, that is OK. Follow this link to a very recent thread that has a link to an older thread that is excellent .

I would use any of them (i.e. the cheapest or the one that have my wanted tire in stock), but pull the wheel myself like dlaing. Also, a friend suggested to me that you should always remove the old counterweights yourself beforehand, since some morons will remove them with any sharp tool he happens to have handy and without the slightest care about the rim and painting. If you don't pull the wheel yourself, you should check afterwards that the shaft is put back together the right way (not that it has to be pulled apart, but a professional moron may not know that) and if you do it yourself, ensure you know about it!. I didn't have a clue about that. When I learned about it (in this thread), I could of course confirm that the shop had put it together in the worst way possible Remember that about the only thing constituting a 'professional' is that he gets payed. Perhaps with your money. Edit: I'm not saying all professionals are morons. But I've had a more than fair share of that kind.

Metzeler and Pirelli are more or less the same company nowadays. The complete story is of course longer and more complicated Taiwan is a province of the Republic of China

Try "block heater" and you'll get plenty of hits @ebay.

The best option I know of is LC-1 from Innovate Motorsports (European site). It's not the cheapest but it's really neat and has good specs (linear reading from Lambda 0.6 and up to free air, or so they say). It's a kit including a Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor and the electronics to drive it in a case well suitable for mounting on the bike. A bung for welding into the exhaust is included too. Fully programmable outputs. Several people here (including me) are using it with My15M and My16M. See also Jens' pages on guzzitech.dk I've programmed it to output 0 volts at AFR 10 and 5 volts at AFR 15. This has the cool advantage that the voltage reading on the Optimizer is the actual AFR except the first '1' is missing. So 4.62 means AFR 14.62 I came up with this after failing to get Cliff to include the calculations into the Optimizer and display an AFR figure instead of the voltage. Cliff is really good but not that responsive on wild ideas. I don't think he even likes AFR figures and he's probably right. Find a voltage that works and stick to it.

An '04 with one thousand miles? At least you could hope it will get much better when it's broken in. But with this pace that will happen about 2050

Yeah it's great. I searched the forums and found out a lot more he has written on the subject. Good stuff. He mentions the PRV is after the filter several times FWIW. Also, I found my all-time-favourite Roper story: Awesome!

Here's a similar story from 2003 with pictures. His brake line didn't break, but was ripped out of the banjo bolt. You're lucky nothing worse happened.

Personally I will gladly adopt ABS whenever I buy a new enough bike to have that option. Uh, that's a whole different thread, let's not talk about that. But I can't see in what way this thing would be different from having a little air in the system - something everybody is struggling to avoid. Nah, I don't believe in this. Besides, I'm out of BPM (Bike Part Money) for the rest of this year

I just stumbled upon this: http://www.lifesavertcb.com/home.html. It sounds too good to be true. So what do you think, snake oil or great innovation? Anyone tried it?

When my heads were off I showed the heavy carbon build-up to a friend who is an auto mechanic, for an opinion whether I should remove it or not. He said it wasn't that important (Guzziology says the same IIRC because it will probably build up again anyway). But he also told me that sometimes a chip of that carbon can get loose and that will sound like

It's beautyful though, just in case that is what you really wanted to hear

Except at "Vinmonopolet" which is the only place you can buy a bottle of whisky. I just wanted to fill my pocket flask for the cold nights in tent. They only take domestic cards and they are very expensive.

I took a ferry crossing near Geirangir/Trollstigen in Norway last summer. Can't remember the exact price other than it did cost a little (in Sweden they are usually free). About

US MPG Imperial MPG l/100km km/l miles per liter 30 36.03 7.84 12.75 7.92 30.58 36.72 7.69 13 32.93 39.55 7.14 14 33.31 40.00 7.06 14.16 35.28 42.37 6.67 15 9.31 37.63 45.2 6.25 16 40 48.04 5.88 17.01 10.56 41.63 50.00 5.65 17.7 42.34 50.85 5.56 18 44.69 53.67 5.26 19 45 54.04 5.23 19.13 11.88 50 60.05 4.70 21.26 13.2 Thanks, now I can relate. I've had varying consumption depending on ECU and map. Worst was around 33 mpg [uS] with OEM ECU and best was better than 45 mpg with My16M and Nigel's map. I've ran out of fuel twice on motorcycles. First time was long ago on a carb bike, I had forgotten to turn the petcock away from reserve, so when I ran out of fuel it was no reserve left. Second time was plain stupid, I was playing gas-station-roulette and lost it. My stupidity was triggered by the fact the fuel light goes on too early. That particular time it went on at some 160 kms on the trip, and I was stranded at around 280. Since then I always fill it up after passing 200 km on the trip if the fuel light is on. If not, I would do it anyway before reaching 250. On long trips I use to make a short stop at 100 kms and a longer gas stop at 200. Then I don't care much about fuel level, I need the pause anyway. Also, I noticed it stays out much longer on twisty roads, with gasoline washing around in the tank.