raz

Good initiative, but AFAIK noone use the rightmost two ways of telling it. For metric people, the table should have a "l/100 km" column as that is what we use (Actually, in Sweden we mostly talk about "l/10 km" but that conversion is not very hard ) Are NZ and AUS using the british miles and gallons?

Excellent write up, thanks a lot!

I'm bored to death too. During riding season I just buy fuel, but when I can't drive I buy all sorts of silly things, and some good ones, out of boredom. Finally I managed to track down a central stand (for mounting on the bike, not a shop stand) for my Sporti for

Even without buying the Optimiser, My15M will include interface and software for fully controlling it from a laptop PC. This software has everything the Optimiser has except for autotune. I will probably put the Optimizer on the shelf once I'm happy with the maps. I don't regret buying it, but I don't think its needed at all except for autotune. I usualy ride around with the baro menu active, showing oil and air temps and air pressure. Pretty darn expensive thermometer

It's plugged into the ECU. Closed loop is fine without the Optimiser, but it won't make any permanent changes to the map. I just bought one from him, AUD 200. Can't test it until April though

No special tools required for the Ducati alternator. I think V11 OEM gasket is a metal one. I hate those because they are not reusable at all. I think 12001200 is the normal paper type.

That was new to me. Good site but extremely expensive... TPS sensor

That may be true if used on an otherwise unaltered bike. Possibly not even then. If used together with stuff like an aftermarket crossover, many people seems to manage to make it better (as opposed to hiding it). This is regardless of what ECU replacement (or add-on) you use, as long as you can tune the map. I'd say My15M is as good as any, and better than some. I do not know of any product that has any feature that My15M lack. Apart from the "well known by tuning center" issue, if that is a feature. MyECU users tend to not feel the need for tuning centers anyway.

No wonder I didn't understand it, it seems it was pretty ambigous My bet, in the mentioned context, is on dlaing. It fits best. There is some really good information in that thread once triple-distilled. Thank you all Edit: I now found another quote from moto and it confirms dlaing's interpretion. It's about tuning against O2 target (eg. MyECU closed-loop): That statement is a good point but not valid when the sensor sits in one of the downpipes (unless too close to the crossover, where it could be influenced I guess).

Thanks. I PM'd him here and tried doing it on GuzziExchange but that failed for some reason. He doesn't seem to be very active here. If you communicate with him, please mention our (my) interest!

Phew! I just finished reading the 446-posts in the great ECU thread. For the third or fourth time, I think. Man, it's good reading. What I fail to interpret is the word "stagger". What is that? I probably know it if you would tell me in Swedish but this time I can't imagine what the word translates to. So please anyone give a rough technical explanation. Example: Sorry for being, in a way, off topic.

Yes but no, I meant Phil Arnold! I've heard he made wonderful Centauro maps so if he ever made a 2V map it may be a good one.

Just be sure to clean and bleed the calipers and you should be fine. I've had big differences but I don't worry too much about it. Once I just replaced the pads in just one of the calipers because the other were so much better. But this may contribute to the effect since the pads will probably end up being of different quality.

I heard of those but thought he only made maps for 4-valve barrels. If he has maps for 2-valve engines too I'm very interested in comparing Phil's ignition advance table to one Luhbo has posted (which I haven't tried yet) and the one Cliff provided.

I've got the My16M (basically the same stuff in different casing) in my Sporti and I'm very happy with it. I just went closed loop just for the hell of it but it's excellent in open loop too. IIRC there are about a hundred out there all over the world and I don't think I've heard of anyone really disappointed with it. If you just want to dyno it and forget about it, it has the disadvantage of not being recognized and understood by the dyno centers. I don't know how big a problem that really is. Anyway my feeling is if you're not the DIY kind of guy at all, it's not really the best option. But if you are, and like being able to tweak just about everything, it's excellent. And closed-loop operation is awesome. Tuning experts complain you can't tune just by measuring O2. While this is true, I can tell you the overall drivability will be very smooth anyway. Also, we're not just measuring O2, a wideband sensor like LSU4.2 claims (aims) to measure lambda or A/F. Anyway you just don't get every possible horsepower available unless you do a real tune with a much more advanced gas analyzer and an experienced tuner. I guess the ultimate solution would be to have an expert map it, then let the closed-loop operation compensate for minor variances. Or even just run it in open loop.

The GEI is rated 25 amps and 100,000 cycles at that load so there seems to be a good margin already. But that is resistive load. This is just my amateur-ish theories: when this relay pulls, the only significant load is the fuel pump. No problemo. But every time you shut your engine off, I guess there could come some ugly inductive voodoo magic from the coils and maybe even the injectors, trying to fry the contacts. Maybe a capacitor could be added across the relay terminals to tame that, like across good old points (only they had to do this once per ignition!). Or a diode. Or both. On the other hand, maybe you just got that week's lemon relay and I'm so bored it got me started?

Brilliant! Everything is easy when you know how to do it - and this trick was new to me. And disturbingly simple! Also, like Pierre said, the bike probably wont get more hurt if you take a minute to calm down and think. I've lifted my Sporti from ground once, and I did it in panic mode, hurting my back. Putting it in gear is a smart move too. It's really obvious when served this way, but I wouldn't have thought of that either. OTOH, hopefully I'll never have to use these tricks

I can't add to answers, but to questions: So there are organic, and there are sintered. I've read about 'racing pads' that you should not use on the street because they will perform bad - they are designed for higher temperatures than you get on the street. Also, you need to bed them in with the discs, and therefore you can't just put them in for the track day and swap when leaving. What are those? I take it that is a third type? I'm not even sure they are used at all on bikes.

I never said the 16M is the same as the 15M, just that the TPS and its setup are the same. I was confident about that but apparently I was wrong about the higher mV readings, sorry!

Well the ECU "black-box" inside is different but the TPS, throttle bodies and basic setup (including the mV figures) is exactly the same. The only step that's different is you can set CO with a screwdriver instead of software.

Shouldn't this be called 'the TPS report' ?

I'll take some guesses. I am in no way an expert but I've read some about E85 conversions and I do drive a Volvo S40 Flexifuel. This is facts: My Flexifuel car makes 700 kms on a tank of gasoline (actually with 5% ethanol in it) or 400 kms on E85 only. That latter figure really sucks! That's why I almost always put gasoline in it. Except for that useless mileage, I can't tell the difference in driving, power, acceleration, torque or whatever. If I have to choose, I'd say it runs a tad better on ethanol. Starting in subzero centigrades is a little tricky. This will not be a big issue for a motorcycle. This is more like guesses: Just pouring E85 in a V11 and do a full ECU remap just might make a very good starting point, possibly with much more power output, not less. I've read 30% figures in several places. Anyone trying this should start with changing fuel filter, since the ethanol will dissolve stuff that has built up in it. The mileage will be terrible. This explains how we get more power with less energy fuel. I usually fill my bike after 200 kms. On ethanol it would probably be 120 kms. That is way below my demands. Temperature will be much better, since you use a much lower A/F ratio. This may allow you to tweak other parameters (like ignition timing I guess) where temperatures are limiting. I don't think seals and gaskets will be that much of an issue. I have no idea about the plastic tank though. My '97 steam train has a metal tank! If you don't like the idea of crashing your bike with gasoline in it, don't even think about doing it with ethanol. It will catch fire if you sneeze. Regarding injectors and flow, I've read about just using higher fuel pressure (i.e. changing or modifying the pressure regulator). That was about cars, I don't know if this would be mandatory on a V11. Bottom line is the milege will be too bad for anything but track (or drag strip) use. Anyway I will probably try it sooner or later, using MyECU in closed loop. But that will not be a permanent conversion, just a cool experiment with closed loop FI.

That was extraordinary well put and I fully agree.

I'm puzzled about that too. An '1100 sport' sub-forum would be sensible, as it's almost a V11, but not quite. And it has the same engine. But the Tenni?

What is that box below the RH barrel? An oil cooler?