raz

Ah, that would have been an interesting second question, "Has the kill switch caused you trouble"... I seem unable to edit the poll now. I'm sure this would get much more votes than "yes, it saved my butt".

This is a variant of the other kill switch poll. How many of you have actually had emergency use of the kill switch (on any bike)? Note that a throttle hang at 0 mph and neutral gear does not count, only dangerous situations where you managed to get control over the situation using the kill switch, and where you probably had not got away with it using the key.

Are we talking flasher relay now? If so, and FWIW, I replaced my flasher relay cause I wanted one that starts with a flash and not with a delay (might just save my life some day). I found one that seemed to be plug'n'play but it didn't work because the polarity was wrong. I managed to swap the female contacts in the socket, and then it worked. The OEM one doesn't care about polarity so it still works too, should I ever want to put it back.

So the distance between the wheel axle and the caliper mount on my Sporti could make that part of the fork flex when braking hard. That's the idea in short? But... but... that's my natural anti-dive system!

While you two are at it, please take the opportunity to educate us in why radially mounted calipers are so hyped in magazine reviews. When I first read about them I thought it was just some esthetic nonsense, but I have been told there might be some real advantage.

OK, yes if that model has one indicator light for both directions (seems newer models has separate ones), and that bulb has failed to shortcut (which is not very common but does happen) it would probably give exactly this behaviour except they should flash. The short could of course be somewhere else near the indicator light or in its socket.

When I turn my hazard switch on, all four turn signals flash but not the indicator (dash) light. V11's also has that hazard light, no? I think your problem might be in that circuit since all four light up.

Wot Ratch said. Though if you really want to do something, you could connect some 5" of hose to it and point it down-back-inwards so it doesn't catch too much moisture and dust. Or at least carefully rotate it so it does not catch every rain drop that falls nearby.

That sounds like a thread. Yes it does. I'm with you Dave, not that I understand your reasons for giving this issue this much attention. Should you get whacked for discussing this matter, in the way you do, in this forum, I will sell my Guzzi and buy a Toyota Prius. And never ever again go two wheels. In fact I will forever deny ever having heard of Moto Guzzi. FFS Ratch, wasn't that a tad out of line, even between you two?

Just a warning while we're talking bolts, I'm pretty sure the rear disc is fitted with special shape bolts allowing some float, that ones I wouldn't replace with standard bolts. The front bolts, which I think we're discussing here, seems to be standard bolts though.

FWIW, last week I had a closer look at the original tensioner and the spring seemed deformed or even broken. Yet it did what it should (only too little of it). When I played with it a bit, the spring got completely deformed. I did stress it "the wrong way" but it was too easy. I'm not sure what all this means but maybe it's not the best quality spring. My Stucchi has now been in service for some 2300 kms and everything is still great. I don't think of it much.

Still confused, but on a higher level

Are you saying you do this to brand new bearings? Why? The grease they come with is so bad?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propane I hope propane will do fine since that is what I bought (in a cheap spray-can size bottle). Maybe it just takes a bit longer. I have the feeling I should replace all the screws regardless of how it goes, but they are not cheap

It seems the picture in the PDF is only 585x660. Or maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Plausible though!

I read somewhere that according to old laws the one who finds that kind of goods is the legal owner. I have no idea if that is really true though. I think I read somewhere else that all that drifting containers would be owned by the Queen

I'm pretty sure you saved one as a reserve for the tool bag, didn't you? Otherwise I do have a couple of the original ones somewhere. Not that I think it will help (it usually goes the other way) but you may feel good ruling that out.

Early this season I put a full bottle of injection cleaner (enough for a full car tank) in my tank with less than 5 litres of fuel in it, then ran it a couple of kms before filling up with fuel. I didn't have any sympthoms, I was just being pro-active and Guzzichondriac I don't think you have to improve the ground braid connection at the battery other than checking it's not seated in rust. As far as I remember we did the alternator and head light grounding improvements that I think are the consensus here.

That's further north than I have ever been, sad to say! Maybe I should attend the NGzz04...

The P8 manual says the port should be connected to the intake manifold. Maybe later ECUs just does the same in software, with input from the TPS. I carefully turned my port to rear/inner (it was pointing front/outer) and put a 10 cm hose on it just to keep water and dirt away (right now all air here is bl**dy full of water )

He's got K&N pods with pre-chargers. A test-run without the pre-chargers fitted would be an easy check. Norman, I know you replaced the fuel filter, but did you ever remove the petcock and its' mesh filter? Maybe we should just check your fuel pressure, I have a gauge. But you don't have any problems above 6.000 rpm, do you? Also, since you've got a PCIII I guess we could use the software to check that your sensors and the crappy cabling is OK. Just stop by here, weather is great, no?

Rain all over Sweden for several days back plus all forecasts. I need new boots (will really consider paying a lot for Goretex) and a pair of rain gloves. Apart from that I still don't think I really need rain protection. Just don't wear a white t-shirt under the jacket... Oh, and that pin-lock anti-fog extra screen on a clear visor really is a must.

Yes that's it. If your current gasket is metal type you definitely want one new as they aren't reusable at all. The seal I always forget to buy but mine isn't leaking at all after three removals of the cover. You should probably replace it, considering the effort needed to do it later.

FWIW, PyroDan's price is $5.00 each including shipping within the USA. While I strongly recommend relaying the headlights, I don't really see the need for the brake light. The 21W brake light draws a nominal 1.75A and that is only about half maximum load for (probably) any of the switch types. Of course, relaying won't hurt except it adds up stuff that can fail. In the case of the headlight, there is a much higher current, too weak cabling and several switches (probably not designed to handle the load) so the benefit there is huge. Just my