raz

It's been discussed allright. I don't feel need to use it myself though I think it's a cool idea and I guess it adds security. Others argue that the clamp must be tightened extremely hard and may be prone to breaking - so you are adding problems - and if you install the filter correctly it won't get loose, and thus the bottom line: if you don't install the filter right, you are probably not gonna install that clamp correctly either Each to his own

OK, it seems like a plausible explanation. I couldn't see a single trace of wear when I had it apart, but on the other hand, this is just a couple of seconds now and then and there's oil all over the place so maybe it needs to be even worse and for a prolonged time before much wearing. I know "some idles" are much better than "others", meaning sync, valves and mixture. Right now this ringing seems to be at its worst and the idle is not really harmonic right now. I'll soon put the My16M back in service again, that will probably make things a lot better. Thanks for the input!

I experience a strange intermittent ringing sound from my engine when idling. It sounds pretty much like a Ducati clutch but I'm pretty sure it comes from the timing chain or alternator or something else at the very front. It's more or less intermittent (maybe it shows more at certain idle rpms) and I'm pretty sure it's only at idle, with or without clutch enganged and in gear or not. My imagination pictured a somewhat loose rotor, scraping into the stator but removing the alternator cover just showed everything seems OK in there. Is this a pretty much normal noise from the cam chain or something, or does anyone have a clue? It doesn't sound good to me. I did have a look at the chain and stuff during winter and everything looked fine, apart from a very weak tensioner but I understood from some reading here that's just normal.

You use an old domain name, http://www.cajinnovations.com works fine! And his email address is changed accordingly.

Introduced 1955: Husqvarna 282 Silverpilen (that's swedish for Silver Arrow). 175 cc. At the time, the regulations for "light motorcycle" in Sweden was by weight. This one weighed less than 75 kgs, so you could drive it if you were 16 years old. All old farts here (including my father) claim they rode one, probably few of them really did.

I must say you took this like a man. No complaining, just pragmatic and almost happy Cheers to that!

Note that this thread is from January. Anyway, HMB-Guzzi sell new ones for € 175,-

Not that I have any experience in valve trashing, but I guess you should have noticed a fair amount of noise and possibly felt it too. Or was that the ominous rattle? Maybe the phonic wheel moved enough outwards so the sensor stopped feeding the ECU? I'm not sure if that's possible but if it is that could mean the engine stopped before nasty things happened... Anyway, the heads (and the barrels and pistons if needed) come off in no time and with engine in place, just follow Petes excellent PDF on engine strip.

FWIW the relay works fine with hazard flasher too, as well as with only one bulb in case one is broken. I managed to pry open the relay socket and reverse the polarity just by moving stuff around. Some of you will regard this a BS fix. I think it may just save my life without me even knowing about it.

Thanks I've tried getting a quiz point but I don't have a chance. Too young maybe (usually I'm too old so that's a good thing) What are your yellow ones?

Yep, you guys really saved me. I stopped the mech shop from milling my head to debris and found me an EDM capable shop. He appologized for not being able to fix it the same day I brought it, I'll get it next week. Then he said "you know this is pricey... let's say 200 SEK". That is like USD 25 Strange my friend at the car shop hadn't even heard of EDM. He's enlightened now. BTW, noone had broken any extractor or such. It's just the bolt. I'm still puzzled they couldn't drill it.

Agreed. After watching some YouTube videos I tend to think I'm pretty safe, that kind of drivers must stand for about 99.9% of killed motorcyclists.

I've been there too. All my bolts was M6x25. I switched the head guard ones to M6x30 after realizing they didn't use all threads available. It may be a small difference but still it may be just what keeps me from ruining one again.

Yeah it scares the hell out of me. I think I will go for EDM instead, if I only can find someone that is capable of that.

My cam chain tensioner is much softer than I imagined it would be, but I have no experience whatsoever to compare to. I can easily move it to its end using my little finger, with very little force. Can anyone describe how to know if the chain is fine, and the tensioner?

A scarying theory could be it's because I almost can't see the signal lights unless I tuck down and really try to - the wind screen is in the way. Put me up for one, whenever you make them.

Guzzi vs Honda

That's good news because that is what I've got now, brand new. Rear is a Z4 with 7000 kms on it. I'll have a look at 60 rear next time. Are you saying I could go 60 for the front too? Thanks Ratch (and guzzi jon), that's what I was fishing after. Good to know for next time. This time I already removed the wheel (I realized I wanted to have a look at the wheel bearings anyway) and did one leg at a time. That was easy. Ground clearance is not much of an issue to me and I don't expect this 10mm drop to make much difference in driving, I just didn't like the idea of having added to an already slow setup. Another side-effect, my bike was at a much greater angle on the side stand than a friend of mine's similar bike. This, and the backing off of rear preload I did to compensate for my tiny weight, may add up to fix that a little.

Is the Sporti sump identical to the V11 one? I don't seem to have any starvation issues but I'm interested in lessening the windage.

Luckily I was wrong, the Sporti heads are identical with the V11 heads. This is good news, it raises the possibility to find a used head if needed.

Thanks everyone. The problem is I've already left it to people that really are supposed to know the tricks. The scary thing is they seem not to be too sure it can be done at all. Apparently the stud is too hard to drill (though I find that really strange) and its stuck enough to break the welding of nuts and stuff. The last resort now is the shop will try to mill it out (milling the aluminum around it), if it's thick enough so we don't end up in the exhaust port. From there I don't know, hopefully the hole will be small enough for some kind of helicoil or something but I'll leave all that to the shop if at all possible Spark eroding might be something they can't do. I'll see to it they give up before ruining the thing.

The bolt for mounting the downpipes. M8x42. Broke it level with the head surface. I should have broken my own neck instead. That HMB price is for a pair, but without valves, springs etc. Since my Sporti valves won't fit, I guess that will be very expensive in the end. I sent them a mail though, thanks Paul.

Thanks, that makes sense. I wear a 70 so maybe this isn't the most urgent fix after all. I can only say the bike's handling is fantastique but I don't have very much recent experience to compare with.

Damn No short-cut?

I broke one exhaust stud on my LH head while doing winter maintenance. I should just have left it alone as all was well but stupid a-hole had to remove the studs to anti-seize them as a pro-active measure. This particular stud was moving allright, well past one turn, then it stuck. I had so much confidence since it wasn't stuck from the beginning, I just applied more force. Off it went, level with the surface. In a rare event of knowing my limits I gave it to a friend working at a car shop. I had some other small jobs for him and he as well as I thought this stud was the easiest job of them all. It wasn't. After welding numerous nuts to the stud which just broke when he tried to unscrew them, he left it to some mechanical shop he's confident with, to drill it out. They failed. They eventually gave up before worsening the problem. So he took the piece of sh*t to the fixes-all-the-rest shop he's confident with, but even they seem to have given up. Crap. So I thought, OK this will cost me bigtime, but the sun is shining and I've GOT to ride RSN so I just won't ask about prices, I'll just buy a new head and sign the bill without looking at it. Well, that doesn't help because the mmm piece of nnn doesn't seem to be buyable. It's not listed anywhere at the ususal places. I sent Reboot Guzzi Spares a mail. Anyone got any other idea? Except for parting this excellent dream bike out in molecules and buy a Norge? How the fokk can it be so hard to remove a broken stud? I reckoned it would be easy to just drill it out as a last resort but apparently it's made out of super-hardened cryptonite. I hate myself right now. Stupid idiot ruining a perfectly running bike and calling that maintenance. Dilettant.