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My fork legs has been level with the upper triclamp since I bought the bike. I know some people drop the forks to get quicker steering but I've considered that a possible future elaboration. Now I just realized the WHB says it should be dropped 10 mm from where it is now just to get to factory spec! I probably have a drag racing geometry as it is now. My first plan was to do this with wheel and stuff attached, both legs simultanously. I realize that may be optimistic. With the bike on central stand, I loosened all triclamp bolts up and wiggled about but of course nothing much happens. What's the sensible procedure here? Should I remove the front wheel and fender and do one leg at a time?

I don't think so. When your fluid level get lower due to pad wear you'll end up with vacuum in the reservoir. The rubber membrane allows air into the reservoir (above the rubber, which will stick to the fluid surface) without letting air (moisture) reach the fluid. Are these caps for the purpose of easthetics or are they replacing damaged ones? Are you sure you can't remove the membrane from the OEMs?

Yah that delay bugs me too!!! It should be more of a safety concern than running lights.Let us know if you find a faster acting flasher. I found a replacement that fits physically and with about the right spec. i.e. "10Wx2+3.4W". Bought it in a jap bike store for about € 10. Unfortunately it didn't work out of the box because this one depends on polarity (the original does not) and of course Guzzi wired the socket the wrong way (if there is a 50% chance of something being bad, the chance it is the case this time approaches 100%). I will swallow my pride and rewire the socket as I expect this relay to conform to some standard. Apart from that issue it works as I want to, immediate flash when activated. It's called FZ-222SD. Haven't tried hazard flasher yet because my Sporti is still in pieces. Apparently it is really hard to remove a broken exhaust stud BTW, the sympthom of incorrect polarity is that the turn signals lights up and never go off. Try before rewiring, there could very well be differences between Guzzi harnesses. Edit: Googling FZ-222SD reveals Suzuki, Yamaha YJ50RN and Aprilia RS 125 among other stuff

Now look what you've done! I just placed an order for an LC-1

What version of the firmware are you running? Is it still true you have to manually store the optimized value to the map for each cell? I asked Cliff about that last summer and he seemed to think it is a bad idea to have it alter the map by itself. I can see his point but I still would like to have that option for selected sessions. Like on a dyno, or a dedicated 'optimizing ride' where I have the laptop and backup maps in the tank bag. Can you log to a laptop and see the dynamic correction to each cell afterwards? If so I could write a Perl script to generate an updated map from that. The firmware I got now (got it in Sep 2006) has a much better interface for the Optimizer than before, more intuitive and more consistent button assignments.

Thanks for all good info Nigel, it makes me want to go closed loop right now and just forget about dynos. I bought a spare downpipe from Reboot so I have nothing to lose except some money for the sensor. I think Cliff uses the dyno the other way round. This is from http://www.jefferies-au.org/MyECU/Tuning.htm: I'm not sure if any dyno could be used that way. I'm pretty sure many dyno operators wont let you operate the bike on the dyno for insurance reasons or whatever.

One concern I've had with buying dyno time is that I have the feeling most dyno centers are completely focused on the products they sell and will lack interest and incentive to do a really good job with my My16M. Now again this is just a feeling I have without ever trying to talk to any of them, so hopefully I'm wrong. Obviously if get in touch with the right guys they should regard it as an interesting break in the never ending stream of japanese fours with PCIII and try to do a good job regardless if they think this is a toy or a superior solution.

Please keep posting your experiences, I like the idea. Would you care to share your current map? I'm still running the map Cliff provided, it would be very interesting to try yours as a starting point. I think I'll postpone closed-loop till next winter.

I've been planning on joining our national organisation for a long time but this finally made me do it. They work on European level too. It seems we need these unions for many reasons. My rpm limiter (let's call it an electronic device) along with the gear ratios effectively limits my bike to 240 km/h

Another starter question... what about the gear itself? I removed the starter for cleaning and having a look. Should I put a little grease on the gear? Chain lube? Nothing? It's not engaged much and excess grease would of course make a mess inside. But it seems so unhealthy dry now.

While I'm definitely for lubing it up if needed, I don't think it would crack just because it's not lubed. That would just make some noise and wear the bushing. So why does it crack? Bad design? Bad manufacturing? Bad day? All of the above?

That is so consistent with buying a 1982 Ducati still in it's cradle.

What's the ID of the gear? And number of teeth?

Sounds like they'll be here for my spring première. Great! Now I just have to collect all engine parts that are scattered all over my basement. Let's see now... there should be bearings here. I seem to be short of a timing chest. And a head. Oh my. Well, it was 2 deg C this morning so maybe I can build a bike out of this just in time

That is an interesting article, and good written too. In an effort to get more confused I tried to put together the figures in these articles and the specs in my WHB to get the full perspective. The idiot light is allowed to go off at 2.1 psi. The "normal range" of lubrication pressure is 54 - 60 psi. The engine OPRV is supposed to allow about 70 psi before opening. That made me think 8 psi in the internal bypass valve in the filter seemed ridiculously low until it struck me that must be relative to the other side of the filter element - not absolute pressure! Note the difference between 2.1 psi (lamp goes off) and 54 psi (lower end of normal pressure)! Or is that too some relative pressure?

The most expensive potential failure with high wattage bulbs is a ruined reflector since it may not put up with the heat. Or so I heard. What I do know is that a high wattage bulb will give worse light if used without fixing wiring/relays. It's pretty simple mathematics. So my plan was to buy a not-the-cheapiest bulb - yet standard 60/55W (I happened to find a Philips Night Vision but I reckon any of the larger brands' top of the line bulbs will do) and fix wiring and relays. I'm sure it will be an order of magnitude better than before. Finished it last weekend though I haven't tested it because my ignition lock/switch is away along with the upper triple clamp for some work

You may already know this but anyway: it's imperative you follow the first sentence in Step one: "Make sure the bike is completely cooled off; overnight is recommended". Not only is it very uncomfortable setting a 60ºC engine, it also ends up being completely wrong. I've got the t-shirt By the way I think I've read the D and S marks are not strictly TDC but the exact point where you should set the valves (which is very near TDC).

Argh, hard to see in the picture, I thought it was really more to white.

That's a good point. Significant challenge.

Pick the seat's base white/grey colour. Paint tank, rear and fenders/hugger in that white. I try to picture that and it's really nice.

This makes me feel comfortable because I'm planning on doing the same mod this weekend - and coincidently I have a Jägermeister in the fridge! I think the shrink tubing is better covering all of the connectors (if not using already insulated ones). I don't like any exposed 12V. Hum, yes your captions imply you intend to.

I still haven't managed to pull the crown wheel cover on my 1100 Sport. I have even tried pushing pretty hard from the inside (pushing on the crown wheel via the pinion opening). How deep is the cover recessed in the case, do I have to pull straight out? I'm pretty sure I see some liquid gasket, possibly that's my problem. I will probably buy a heat gun this weekend, that would help, right? I'll need it for the bearings anyway.

The 1100 Sport outer bearing is HK25162RS (Guzzi p/n 92252225) and its inner bearing (Guzzi p/n 92259025) is IRZ 20x25x18 . I think the V11 outer bearing is another type.

Check it out next time you change oil. I leave it to someone who knows it better to describe how to check it. In the meantime, remember that all of us that hasn't got this problems usually don't end up posting about it so it may seem more common than it is. It's wise to change oil when you end the season, not when you start the next one. This way all the precious parts will sit happy in fresh oil over winter. If you store it in severly bad conditions you might even want to use some cheaper oil just for storing and change again at the start of the season. Oh, and never mind dlaing, he's just practising for a raging battle in the new climate thread.

So what is holding you back now?