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There has been lots of water in here so it's probably corrosion. There appears to be liquid gasket on the cover but it may just be dirt. The pinion stuff is out so there's no suction. It's not easy to get any grip with a screwdriver. I have tapped it gently in all directions with a hammer. I also tried putting some force from the inside, with a ratchet handle (covered with hard rubber) through where the pinion stuff sat and pushing on the crown wheel. I think this is the best way but I have to figure out a combination of soft enough yet hard enough lever, and something to lean it against. Also, I start to think it's time to buy that heat gun...

My needle roller bearing is so bad I didn't even realize there should be a bearing there until I read this and had a closer look. Now I'm trying to remove the crownwheel cover. After removing the eight bolts, the cover remains stuck. What should I do, where can I put force without ruining something? No text I've googled up mentions anything about this. Maybe I'm just too timid?

Anyone interested should see the new thread for the group order

I'll have two myself. Note that those of you living in US should get them yourself from Uncommon. They won't ship to Europe, hence our little project. Many thanks to Zoom Zoom for helping us out.

I've seen that recommendation in various places. I'm pretty sure it's an ancient recommendation that is applicable on tires that could be mounted either front or rear. In that case the arrow should be mounted backwards on the front wheel. On any tire the says "front tire" the arrow should point as the wheel rotates. Unless used as a rear tire of course

Did you read http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8729 ? They look marvellous to me anyway. Though they are far too expensive for me. I would guess the 15M will at most complain silently about it, and still do the ignition. Otherwise you could try http://www.jefferies-au.org for a MyIgnition though I can't see that product on his pages now. Anyway Cliff will probably be able to provide you with ignition control in some way. The stuff from a carbed 1100 Sport may also be a good idea, as Skeeve says.

Guzziology lists an after-market flange that fits "Quotas, LeMans I & II, Daytonas, Sport 1100s, V11 Sport, Centauros, EV, Bassa, Jackal, Stone and V11 LeMans" so they should be interchangable. The collets I don't know. Original collets are £1.47 each at MotoMecca.

You may have a point, but they will just answer, in chorus, it's all about unsprung mass

Last summer I lost the "gas station roulette" in the middle of nowhere and at 35°C (Yeah I know some of you folks have way way worse definitions of 'nowhere' and 'heat' ). Won't happen again that's for sure. Anyway, it was somewhere between 270 and 280 km after full tank (filled on side stand). To make a long story short I actually managed to have a taxi buy some fuel (in a used oil container, probably 4 litres) for me before coming my way, for practically no cost except for the fuel itself. Then after riding 15 km I filled it up with some 12 litres. This would sum up to about 17 litres, as you say. The warning light is pretty useless as it sometimes lights up after 140 kms (when running straight) or as late as 220 kms (on a curvy road). I tend to use the trip meter and fill it up around 200 kms. That's usually 11-12 litres.

It's probably pretty easy to find a suitable one. But it should be a type that doesn't care if the load is 20W or 40W. I think most cars have a separate emergency flasher relay. The other problem is that I absolutely want one that just fits the same connector. Don't ask me why, I can't really motivate it

Yup, it's right behind the upper rear engine mount. I was surprised to find it when I cleaned the engine thoroughly after a breather hose breakage. I'm in the straight-gear range but I suspect, and hope, that some PO has fixed it 'cause there is evidence of a dismount, there was no metal on the magnet and I hear absolutely no whining from the fifth gear Anyone know if there is a way to inspect the fifth gears through any of the available peep-holes in the box? Would be a nice thing to know without dismantling.

There seems to be a problem running with a very bad battery. It will result in too high voltage from the regulator as it needs the battery for good regulation. A bad ground connection can lead to a similar problem. The fixes: Run a separate grounding wire between regulator and engine If battery is dead, charge it. Do not try jump-starting etc. Mount a Transil Diode that will protect the ECU by surging too high voltages so the fuse blows instead of some chip in the ECU Having said that, I don't think the ECU chip is a very common failure. My point was that if it should happen, you are much more stuck than if you get some dirt in a carburettor.

That site hosts some pretty good new avatars for you, Ratch. Not that I don't love your present one!

I'm more concerned that whenever I turn on the flasher, it starts in "off" mode, so the first flash is delayed more than a second (that's 30 meters at Moderate Speed[tm]). It's a bad thing as I tend to turn on the flasher pretty late. I can't understand how a guy who does this for a living has come up with this crappy design. I'm searching for a replacement flasher relay that will start its work with a flash, not a delay. In my head this is obvious. Maybe I'll do some running light when I'm at it. I will keep you informed.

Man, that is guzziology!

The more TLC I give her, the more she cost me. I decided to remove the shaft completely and clean it. Then I see I've lost two splines from the layshaft. I have no idea when it happened, it might have been this way for ten years. Oh well (holding back a lot of foul words). Would it be outright stupid to not replace the layshaft? Two splines out of ten. It would cost me € 280 (about $370) and it's not the sexiest thing to put that money on. I would probably take the chance to shim the box and replace the 5th to helical if it's not already. More money...

Just putting in higher wattage bulbs will give worse results since it will emphasise the voltage drop over bad connections and cheap relays. It's imperative you get rid of the voltage drop first (and when you're done you may not need any higher wattage!!). The maths behind it is pretty simple. I plan on putting in some relays with power fed straight from the battery. You might want to have a look at http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/turn_si...ning_lights.htm

That's because they think you are a car with one broken light

It depends on what you want from it. In my optinion, having the injected model isn't that important, it even has some drawbacks (if it should ever get fried for whatever reason, you are really stuck). The inverted fork is more important to me (just for the looks if nothing else). I agree the smaller headlight is much nicer. The hugger is a Good Thing[tm] for protecting the rear suspension, I payed 240 EUR for mine. I don't see any particular problems with the mods unless you're the Everything Original type of guy. Though I don't understand why he wrecked the airbox. I have no idea if the price is right. 14,000 miles seems really low, I would try to verify that. You are not selling the Rosso Corsa, right? That would be wierd 'cos it's currently the only model I like more than the 1100 Sport!

Seems they charge 3.4% + 0.35 €. Also, if payment is made by credit card they will charge another 5.4% + 0.35 €. I guess these charges are lower than the currency variations. There is some kind of limit on five payments per year that can be made with credit card since I just have a Personal Account. I'm not sure what that will mean?

Triple clamp on a Sport 1100i is 18-20 Nm (it's not the same fork though) http://www.guzzitech.com/TorqueSpecs.html

Heh yes it does. I have no idea what a Swedish Highland Outback would be. Maybe it's not advertised here

I was going to ask how four logs at a time could pay the bills. Then I saw the last video. OK, that is not a log, that is a tree. And oh, sorry 'bout that, there was a couple other trees that got stuck at the same time. When I was a kid, there were firefighters and there were chopper pilots. Unfortunately I did'nt end up being any of them

Damn. Since you posted this I've tried not saying the following (since it doesn't add any facts to the thread ) but I have to. Your bike is IMO the most beautyful Guzzi on earth. The painting is awesome. I've done some research and from what I've gathered it's just the Le-Mans that have it. The Le-Mans fairing may be good (not too far away from my Sport 1100i) but it aint pretty. Stripped, it is awesome. It really is. For now, I'm considering the V11 Rosso Corsa the one and only Guzzi that could make me sell my present bike. Congrats! On another matter, when I first read your post I was conviced you were posting from the UFSoA or the Oz. Do you realise what temperature I had that day??? It's not that far away!

In Sweden it's quickly developing all over the country. Our 'national motorcycle union', whatever you'd called that in english, is working against this but personally I don't get why they do. The wires will either stop meeting cars from hitting me or stop me (and cut me to pieces) from hitting them. In my head, the risk of meeting cars is way way way bigger than me falling asleep and going into the wires. I don't do 300 km/h, or even 200 (well not regularly). If I did, it wouldn't be on a public highway and certainly not a wired one. So I like them.