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You've better replace those petite pods with something real, like K&N RU-1780 + RU-0510PR (red Prechargers, other colors are available). Or the gorgeous UNI ones:

I have an L1 of 10uH (brown black black) and one L2 of 100 uH (brown black brown). Some boards use 2x100 uH for L2 - if there is an L2a it should be identical to L2. You better ask Cliff. If you use only one I guess it should span the outer ends of L2 and L2a on the PCB. Hm, no wait your board design is different. Maybe just shortcut the L2a, I'm not sure. Compare it to the 16M board and components. Anyway E60 075 is the "polyswitch", it's like a soft fuse (60V 750 mA) I used "GRMHIVO 2200pF/630V 0603 X7R" for the high voltage capacitors, surface mounted at the FET solder points.

WTF, it looks like brand new! Mine is a wreck compared to that

I think he normally preloads it with a map, so you probably don't need to load it. Personally I wouldn't slaughter a working stock unit, considering how much it is worth. You can get busted ones on eBay for low cost. On the other hand, I trust you could put it back together again if you want to. Do follow Cliff's suggestions for "first start". I first cheated and used my idle screw but tuning the idle cell properly has proven better in the long run, plus you can swap to a stock ECU with no change.

Swap relays around. Condition your emergency stop switch (just flip it 10 times or so).

That does not sound right. Maybe this is it, though I've never heard of anyone having to replace it twice. Otherwise you could try wiggling the cable to the timing sensor too. Some have had problems with it, despite reading good when measuring for resistance. Most problems seem to be with the V10 though, as the cable is forced into a 90 degree bend on that engine (if memory serves me, anyway, something like that).

No, it should not slide. This usually happens unless you cross torque it in several steps.

Inspecting a spark plug will tell you a lot

I bought a pair of FIAMMs and they lasted exactly one season. Both were completely dead next spring, not a click. I threw the stock ones back and relayed them instead. They may not be the loudest on earth but they've been in service for 14 years now. BTW this reminded me of this link, it's hilarious: http://www.hornblasters.com/video.php

Do I see a Roper Plate? That's probably the culprit. Not that there's anything wrong with them (I have one too), but the hole in the sidestand mount should be slightly enlarged. Due to tolerances, some bikes are in more need of doing this than others.

According to my package of Loctite 2701, it can withstand 150°C (300°F) but it also says you should heat to 300°C (575°F) for breaking it. Anyway mine were very tight too, but there was no Loctite on them. I think they were run into the bottom of the threads and then corroded too. I replaced them with aluminum ones.

This is your second sign of air leak in intake rubbers. Check clamps and look for cracks (some surface cracks are normal, as long as they don't go through).

My 1100 Sport has a 90N/mm (stock) rear spring. Linkage ratios seem to be about the same as V11. Maybe you mean 100N/mm? Or 10 kg/mm perhaps.

Any grease will be fine and I use the same as for the zerks. Wheel bearing grease is probably really good and some say boat trailer wheel bearing grease is the ultimate choice and it doesn't sound like a bad idea to me. Guzzi says you should avoid grease containing Moly for the UJs, probably because it is hygroscopic. I bought a tube of moly grease before I realised that, and I will use it up but I'm buying something else next time.

The middle zerk lubes the splines between the shaft halves and yes, whenever removing rear wheel you should grease its splines. I can't think of any other splines to grease but inside the washer at the outer side of the bevelbox, there's a needle bearing that should be cleaned and regreased too whenever removing rear wheel. Take care not to drop the bevelbox on the floor while removing wheel. It's heavy.

On another note, how/where did you fit that gauge? I'm just about to mount one but I'm not sure where.

WTF is this, a UFO taking off?

Banning? Who? Why? I've seen very innovative spam bots but Trippy ain't one.

Vaseline is dielectric grease! Tape will help further, as well as zip-ties perhaps, so the connectors don't move when handlebar does.

Having read http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15513 I wonder if there could be different (older/newer) maps for the 1200 too?

Holy cow. He can consider himself lucky, expecting full recovery!

My 1100 Sport is not exactly a V11 but it has a very similar design and similar mismatch/stress on the rubber mounts (but more front-aft stress than up/down). The RH pipe between crossover and muffler also tends to touch the brake pedal unless I wiggle and jiggle for half an hour. I chalk it up to imperfect design. A little of that, but more because my joints are really tight no matter how I try to clean them or sand them. The heat makes everything much looser so it can settle in the least stress position. Maybe the need for this is less on V11's, I don't know.

I use to re-do the above, except the head flanges, after running. That is, riding a couple of miles and then let it idle a couple of minutes so everything is really hot. Loosen all clamps, hit joints a couple of times with a rubber mallet, retighten. It seems to result in less strain.

Yes, that is an aspect. The dyno guy I talked to (not a Dynojet affiliate) thought it was interesting and he would gladly tune it (though I have postponed it). But some Dyno Centers might just think it's a hassle and want you to invest in a PC III instead. Also, tuning a PCIII at a Dynojet center is probably quicker (thus less expensive) as they have everything worked out and just follow a semi automated procedure.