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That's a thought, but no. You are probably right it is not effective. I meant it's not rational to lift the tank just to remove them, unless there was problems with the system. You were going to lift the tank anyway, that's not the same thing.

They are in just the same position as anyone with a PCIII, except they have more parameters to play with, if they want to. That is, you can find a "close enough" map, and/or you can tune it by seat-of-the-pants and/or you could spend days at the dyno.

Yes. The environment. The only reason to remove it would be weight and decrease of complexity aka points of failure. I doubt they weigh that much and they're not that complex. Sometimes people are tossing environment friendly stuff just on principle. I tend to classify them as stupid people, just on principle.

Congrats, I got the feeling long ago that you, if anybody, should have one, but I didn't wan't to push you into it We'll sort out the sensor stuff. Anyway you should start out in open loop and tinker with that 'til you're bored, so there's no need to hurry. We had a ball here with the flat 27 page MyECU thread until Cliff put up his own dedicated forum. But nothing beats the old hostile ECU thread from 2005, that's what set me off years ago. It is still three pages longer than our MyECU thread! There's a lot of good knowledge hidden in all that bickering. That thread takes a full day or more to digest.

I do! Running closed loop for the third year or so. I love it. I think you are the kind of guy who would enjoy one, needed or not (I didn't really need it, I just wanted one!). As I originally had a 1.6M in my bike, I've got a My16M but you should buy a My15M of course. There is very little difference except form factor, connector and the mentioned air pressure sensor. Last I saw, you can by the My15M as a kit too but some surface mounted stuff are premounted. Anyway you can probably negotiate the details with Cliff if you like.

All V11's have the 15M. The 1100 Sport (1997-98), which is otherwise damn near identical engine-wise, has the older 1.6M (and also the old five-speed gearbox). The Cali has probably had them all (including the even older P8 and maybe the yet older P7, I'm not sure). Functionality in 1.6M and 15M is the same and they use the same sensors except the 15M has the ambient air pressure sensor built-in. My bike has it externally. Apart from that you'd just have to convert the connector if you wanted to switch between them. What's the problem with your ECU? The 15M seem to be much more reliable than the 1.6M and the map they put in it is also better I think.

I agree, you seem to be the right breed. The more you ride it, the less problems you will have per mile. I seem to create most of my problems myself, in the winter when I can't ride it

Older bikes (like mine, I'm not sure about the original V11 Sport) have the pump above the timing chest but you may have the oil cooler in the way. But you might want to try replacing the fuel tap solenoid against a manual tap. You never have to close it anyway unless removing the tank. This has solved the vapor lock problem for some. I have never had a vapor lock problem. Manual fuel tap, pump in front and filter between spine and the RH cylinder. Like most other changes to the engine, the air filter harmonics is a compromise. I could see negative effects in mid-range using pods, while there probably was a positive effect at very high rpm. That didn't suit me at all so I soon put back my air box.

Yes, I considered some of those Innovate products until I cracked the mysteries of plugin writing. It would be a terrible mess of wiring and/or new sensors though, to get anywhere near the information available from the ECU. Not that all is needed. When I grow old I'll tune a Dodge Viper instead, or something else that is big and can fit all my toys

There is almost not a chance engine oil could migrate to the gearbox as the whole dry clutch bevel are between them. Are you sure it's not coming from something ahead, like a blown base gasket or something, and just happen to land there and try to fool you? Sometimes turbulence does such things.

What I showed is the Innovate Logworks software output. But without my plugin, you will only have Lambda values with no reference to RPM or throttle so you can not make that diagram! To make a good chart of that type, you need the throttle coordinate without accel pump. My plugin does that too.

No, consider The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy instead

You can't miss the wire coming from the alternator (frontmost round cover on engine), follow it and you'll end up at the regulator. I'm not sure where it is on your bike. The stock one has "Ducati Energia" stamped on it, aluminium box with cooling fins. 2 x 3 inches or thereabouts.

It should, yes. The 12V you see on the regulator side of the bulb probably comes through the filament, and the wire going to regulator is broken, or disconnected. Some of the aftermarket regulators are lacking the output, you have the stock one?

Alive and ticking Finally bike was back on road today, a month or more later than expected (due to waiting for the cam). An unexpected problem when assembling the engine was that a couple of the cylinder studs hit the rockers, as the heads are now 1 mm thinner. I cut a couple of mm from them. Other than that, no problems except it took forever to get an oil pressure. Luckily I did that by cranking without spark plugs (and fuse to sparks and injectors removed). I think there was almost two minutes total. I took long pauses letting the starter cool down, it got pretty hot. After I put the plugs and fuse back the engine fired after a split second of cranking, and idle and sync was perfect just from my initial settings. Damn cool if you ask me! In addition to replacing the TB shaft seals, I replaced my sloppy throttle linkage ball joint with a metal joint from Volvo. My TPS now shows the same with engine running. Before, it would raise over 100 mV when I started it. Took it for a 30 km ride or so, everything seems fine. Thanks to all contributors and special thanks to Luhbo, who lended me a cam for making a master.

Part number confirmed but you can't separate it. So I dremel'd out the existing ball and the hole that was left was suitable for attaching the new ball. The total length of the rod got a little too long so I cut 5 mm or a quarter of an inch away from it, with the lock nut still there to fix the threads afterwards. Then put it all together and Bob was my uncle, as good ol' Ratch would have put it. I now have no play in the joint whatsoever. It was horrible before this, couldn't maintain a repeatable idle TPS value. I have a feeling this will outlast the bike too.

I envy you regardless of rain, have a good time!

He just hoped you were about to open that Tequila bottle @Roy: Great! You saved a hundred bucks there. I need to check out my old one, I never tried measuring for diodes between red and yellows, for a starter.

Just remember like with brakes, you need a little free play. Otherwise the hydraulics will not work as they should. This will be an issue before clutch slip is.

Just for the record, try doing it in the relay socket. It should go like this: | | | __ <- jump this one __ <- with this one If that makes the pump run, but an activated relay doesn't... well, then some things are not what they seem.

The trick is to always, always carry a bottle of whisky. This way, no matter what breaks down, you'll be fine until picked up.

When you hot wired the pump, did you do that in the relay socket or directly to the pump?

Unless fuse #2 is blown I guess your fuel pump went tits up

My joint is due now too. It doesn't self-separate but the idle TPS varies depending on how it settles. I found the Volvo p/n too (not certain yet it's the correct part but it should be): 959088 Here you can see how you can separate it and use the existing ball. I'll report when I can confirm p/n.