Jump to content

al_roethlisberger

Members
  • Posts

    4,482
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

Everything posted by al_roethlisberger

  1. Another thing I noticed was that Horsepower and Torque figures do not cross at 5252 RPM... No matter what is dynoed, HP & TQ are the same at 5252 RPM... Not if the scales are different on either side of the graph. I see this a lot on various dyno runs. al
  2. Heh, well... YEP. And since I qualify for that remark too, I'll add my $.02. I have mapped the Ti/ECU "Race Kit" and found it to be (here in the US) sorely off in the mapping dept. I suspect this may be due to the Euro-vs-US gasolines, but I can tell you that I did not see 7 hp here in the US with the kit, either pre-or-aft PCIII usb. There are *no* timing revisions on the "race" ECU. See second post down; http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Endorse15M.html I'll try and dig up the Dynorun map and post it. May take me a week or so though. Todd Certified PCIII Tech AMA Pro SuperMoto Chief Steward p.s. All top 10 bikes in every category in AMA Pro Road Racing run PCIII's, which are mapped at every track location on the day of each race. So Todd, did you get my latest map and dyno run I sent you after my final dual-plug setup with remapped ignition from TLM? I emailed that to you a couple weeks back. al
  3. They do look nice, but will that piggyback reservoir fit up in where the Spine's have their shock mounted? This is why our OEM shock has a remote reservoir, because it's so tight in there. It seems like it would be a tight fit, even if the reservoir was mounted sideways, unless perhaps airbox was removed al
  4. ...you can't loosen the front crossover, rotate it forward a bit, and get the alternator cover off? al
  5. They fit fine.... several of us(including myself) have had them fitted for a long time now(see photo below). And yep, they'll fit the Sport as well al
  6. Different units of measure than HP and lb/ft, so the difference is probably not as great as it seems. BTW, also note the significant difference in temp and atm pressure between the two runs. That can be a major factor making back-to-back comparisons difficult. al
  7. Is "sinister" the brand name Mike, or is this just a material to look for in the pads by EBC, etc?? I'm assuming you didn't mean "sintered" HH pads instead?? al
  8. Poor Carl, I feel for ya Well, I hope you get ONE of them back in running condition before Summer is past. I'm very interested to hear your results and reports on Cliff's computer, especially in the closed-loop mode. Keep us posted al
  9. ...why not? We've always said that if the ECU is properly mapped, you wouldn't need a PCIII. However, it really depends on where you live, whether there is a local shop that can remap the M15 or not(mostly "not" in North America), or if you have instead a local shop that is PCIII proficient. That question is what often drives the choice. In the case of the MG Ti kit, the OEM ECU is already mapped for these cans, so assuming one hasn't made any other gross changes to the intake/exhaust, it is true that just installing the new ECU with it's modified mapping should be just fine. I'm still curious if the new ECU has just a modified fuel map, or if the ignition is changed as well. I would doubt it, but am curious. al
  10. Yes Al, it moves the right side out If anything it makes it feel better for everybody thats got one I must have a before I can fork over $15 & this comes from you ( a guy who spent $ 1200 on his heads, with dual plugs that even Mike Rich told you not to do ) BTW hows that working out ? And now , I have to ask myself - self what phuck'n difference could it possibly make to Al which position his pegs are in ? Al , you dont ride the thing anyway Heh, it's funny how often, when I ask for photos or more clarification on a product, it is assumed it is because I am considering buying them A reasonable assumption true, but.... ....when in fact, I am just trying to get more info out of general interest $15 is indeed not a big deal, but you'd be surprised(or maybe you wuldn't ) at the number of "just $15" gizmos lying around my garage for various projects that I've picked up just to check out. So, no, I don't want to just buy a set to "see" I'd still love to see a photo of them installed though, for everyone's benefit. al P.S. The dual-plugged heads are working fine, and the porting worked fantastically. I think I'll really appreciate the porting once the new cam is in. As reported in the "dual plug" thread, I can't tell any real benefit with the dual-plugging beyond perhaps less detonation than stock when under hard acceleration. If I had higher-compression pistons, the benefit might be more pronounced though However, Mike's new pistons supposedly work to reduce that via their design, so when I get those, the dual-plugging probably still will be superfluous to some degree. The domed FBF high-comp pistons might benefit from dual-plugging more though, although that's just speculation on my part. I'm sure the modificatoin will increase efficiency over time though, especially with the ignition advance backed off now. But I was never "sold" these with any expectation of real performance gains.... while at the same time Mike Rich didn't tell me not to do the mod.... just that the gains on a mostly stock street bike might be minimal. However, since I already had the heads off and in his shop all the way across the nation in NJ having the heads ported, it only cost ~$300 to have the dual-plugs added at the time, so I just thought "why not" So, in the end... would I recommend doing it? It's hard to say. I think it's "nifty" and is certainly a "good thing" in regards to improving the burn in our off-center hemi spark, but the total conversion is a bit pricey, but on the other hand not ridiculous if one is already having the heads ported: ~ $300 head work ~ $250 new OEM dual-output coils(plugs right into harness, no modification) ------------ ~ $550 - optional ECU ignition remap ~$400 P.P.S My 2003 tank is at the painters this week They've also got the bike's tail to match the paint.
  11. Is there a motorcycle in there somewhere? ...so, how are the various rebuilds going Carl? al
  12. ....see 7 posts up So, the caveat is that either you'll have some scratched/knicked up "rectangles" on the pork-chops where the pegs used to be mounted, or you perhaps have some billet rectangles made to cover these locations(what I'd do). Here's a question though, if the right peg is moved to the brake lever pivot, obviously this moves the right peg out by a good 1/2 inch or more. Do you notice/feel this much? al
  13. Ah well, just lemme know what they say, and what size is correct so I can contact them as well for an "exchange" or just order some new ones. After all, they are only a few bucks each.... al
  14. Which color red model paint(part#) did you find matches the faux anodized color of the later models? al
  15. Which one didn't fit, the brakes(front/rear) or the clutch bleeder? al
  16. ~$16 from Evoluzione.net http://www.evoluzione.net/vitem97401.htm ...but I've never seen a close-up photo(any photo for that matter, AFAIK) of them installed. al
  17. Unfortunately I don't have one as I got mine "used" .... But here is one, for $90 http://www.adventuremotogear.com/twinmax.m...D277G1195I6D75E I "Googled" for "TwinMax" and came up with several matches
  18. Correct, The 00-01 bikes have a red enamel finish, where starting with 02 the finish is also paint, but it's a candy finish that appears anodized. Other than the red touch-up for the earlier color, I've not seen any touch-up paint for the later color that works.... although there may be a good nail-polish out there that may work. al
  19. Guess it's time for me to update the FAQ al
  20. Could someone post a photo of the Evoluzione kit installed? al
  21. Is this what you meant to link to? http://www.evoluzione.net/vitem50100.htm If so, no I haven't tried it. But I swear by the Twin-Max. Yeah, it's more than $25(by about an additional $65 if you look around )... but it's so easy to use, it's already paid for itself in my humble opinion al
  22. I tell ya, I'm really glad we finally have this one sorted out. I don't know when I'll get around to tearing into the box to measure mine, but it's good to know. Just for clarification, the arrow below is pointing to the boss that should be 15mm, correct? al
  23. Finish a project in a SINGLE DAY ....is it possible?
  24. The Buell XB9/12 lenses come with a smoked outer lens, and an inner amber insert, so you do not have to change your lamps from clear to amber. If I recall, the lenses were about $2 each at my local HD boutique ..... which are a nice bunch of guys BTW, and always think it's interesting I'm buying HD parts for a Guzzi al
  25. Check the valve lash. This is the exact problem I had for MONTHS last year, that my dealer couldn't solve, after they had had the heads off. Once the bike was good and heated up, it just wouldn't idle. It would cough, spit, lope, and die.... after a highway run, at redlights, in traffic. It was unrideable So after some thought, my "common sense" kicked-in-gear and I thought, "gee, what would heat do to make the engine not want to idle that wasn't fuel related" and surmised that the valve train was taking up all of it's lash when heated, and was binding up, not letting the bike idle. The dealer didn't listen to me though, and after weeks of their own tinkering, they finally just gave it back to me and said, "...just go ride it a bunch and it will loosen up" Anyway, long story short, Mike Stewart came over and we set the valve lash to Raceco specs, and it's never had an idle hiccup again. Check the valve lash al
×
×
  • Create New...