al_roethlisberger

Could be, but unfortunately most of the Ducati shops that I've spoken to aren't excited about trying to tune a Guzzi... I had a couple leads here in Northern CA, that used the FIM software, but they never came through. If anyone is in the LA area, and wants to check them out for this service, that would be great to report on for us al

Antonio, I don't think you "lost" that discussion .... and in fact I agreed that optimally, if we had tuners in the USA that were good at mapping the M15, you were correct that the PCIII/PCIIIusb would not be required. If tuned well, the M15 should be more than sufficient. However, in the USA, we have very few if any folks that can get the most out of the M15 on Guzzi applications, and probably near none than have any experience or even can remap ignition. ...whereas, there are a lot of shops experienced doing so with the PCIII. So, we have to go with what we can ...unless of course one can afford to ship their whole bike to Europe for a new mapping ....because with the various modifications, one really needs a dyno, gas analyzer, and hence the bike in person to do it right. Certainly, if the bike is bone-stock(or close), then yes, I'm sure someone could certainly send their ECU to one of your tuners in Europe, and get a very good state of tune But for most of us, the bikes are no longer stock BTW, what is a "Guzzi-racing ECU"?? To add to the responses about the question about the PCIII and PCIIIusb, yes as mentioned, they are physically different boxes. The USB model uses twice the data points as the old PCIII, has an expansion slot for goodies like an ignition module(which is not made yet for Guzzi applications), and the map file formats are completely different. The two are not interchangeable. However, if you have an old PCIII map that was working for you, you can convert the old PCIII map and import it into your PCIIIusb via the included softward. This however is meant only to "get you up and running" as the software makes some assumptions and estimates when doing so. Ultimately you would want to get a real USB map when possible. I don't recall if you can go the "other way", that is, converting and importing a PCIIIusb map into the PCIII format However, Todd Eagan has lots of PCIII maps, probably more than USB versions, for various configurations. If one cannot get a custom map in the near future, that is where I'd start. Now, back to our regular programming ...the shop wasn't able to squeeze me in today for my mapping, but I'm on the schedule for tomorrow at 11am. More to follow al

Hey, quick question.... along with the side cases of the engine, did they replace the sump spacer as well? ...not the pan, but the bottom part of the engine case that the pan attaches to? I ask because the part of my engine case, along with the sides/halves, is also seriously leprous. al

Well, there may be a thread in "How To", but I don't recall. However, it's so easy, a whole thread is really unecessary For 2002 and earlier bikes: 1) Close petcock on left side under tank by rotating clockwise 2) Loosen and remove clamp on fuel supply line on the petcock, and remove line 3) Loosen and remove clamp on fuel return/pressure-regulator on right side, and remove line 4) Loosen and remove single bolt at rear of tank. The tank can now be lifted in the rear. 5) Lift tank enough to see under tank and unhook the electric fuel level sender on left, directly in front of the petcock. 6) Also, you should be able to reach up under the tank and unhook the overflow and vent lines from their nipples, which are about 2/3 of the way up under the tank toward the nose. 7) Now lower the tank back down, and grasp the tank at the nose from above(fingers down in the slot the frame passes through) and at the rear where the bolt goes.... and lift up and smoothly to the rear. With the airbox still in place, you may have to slightly lift the rear more than the front. The same procedure is used for the 2003+ tanks with the internal fuel-pump, with a few exceptions. On the 2003+ tank, all the connections are on the right side. You simply need to unplug the electrical connector for the fuel-pump module, and disconnect the quick-connects for the EFI loop. I hope that helps! That's it al

I'd like to find/get the oval red MG decal that is on the 2004+ bikes, and that "anniversary" decal(or whatever it is) that is on the top of the tank. I'm going to order the metal badges and see what they look like. You might be right, it may not look right. We'll see al

That's not too bad It looks very similar to the picture posted last Fall by someone?? that had the cases swapped, so it looks like this is the finish they are going with. al

I can't recall for sure.... so do your own research, but I think that in that thread or two where the recommendation for additional earths was made, someone pointed out that the later bikes(V11 Sport/LeMans for example) had adequate earthing, and even had a good ground from the batter to engine case You might want to check, but I think the point was that it could probably be improved, but the new bikes seem to not suffer so much from this malady as older models did. al

Good advice J, ...but to add, once you do get past those first few tries, it's actually pretty hard(or just unlucky) to miss the bolts and knick up the sideplates. As of late, the only time I've "missed" was when I was not taking my time to do it right If paranoid, one could always put masking tape around the area before fitting the stand, and lifting. That would be quick and cheap insurance if concerned. al

hrmm, lemme try this again. I guess I blew up the forum a couple hours ago on my last attempt to reply First, and foremost, congratulations on the "upgrade" Biesel Anyway, Enzo, to answer your questions... no the Rosso/Nero Corsa are mechanically identical to the "vanilla" 03/04 LeMans other than the Ohlins front and rear suspension. And of course, cosmetically, it has the nifty checkerboard paint scheme and red valve-covers The Cafe' Sport adds an Ohlins steering damper, but it won't fit the faired bikes(I've tried) so the Rosso/Nero retain the standard Bitubo damper. Biesel, I was wondering about your question, then I remembered that the Rosso Corsa has the matte finished gray tail, with the checker-board and script laid on with decals. I didn't realize there wasn't a clear-coat, even if satin finished, covering these decals. That isn't the best design for durability IMHO if so. So, I assume your question is in regards to prepping the surface to accept a clear-coat, so it would adhere reliably. Certainly sanding would bring a quick death to the decals, so that's not a good option. Unfortunately I can't answer your question, but I do have a suggestion. What I would do is call/visit a reputable paint shop and present the problem to them. They may have a way to prepare the surface without damaging the decals. After all, most decals are under clear-coat, so I'm sure there is a way I think the rear would look great with this solution BTW. Let us know how it goes! al

Yep, got my "Oklahoma"(see FAQ) spare spring in a bag as a talisman .... I really hope I got one of the "good ones" as I just don't want to have to mess with it Time will tell. al

Due to other issues, the dyno/mapping session got nixed the other week. But I'm tentatively on the schedule for tomorrow. All future updates to this thread will be at: Forum Thread - Yes I actually dual-plugged a V11 Sport

History: Forum Thread "Has anyone Dual-Plugged a V11 Sport Since all the logistics are finished, as far as parts, how, etc... and covered in the thread above... per Jaap's request, I'll post the results of the dual-plug conversion here I rode the bike to work today, and tried to get it gooooood and hot, and so far(knock on wood) no vapor-lock or fuel leaks after my various mods in the "wasted fuel" and "relocated fuel-pump" threads. So I should be able to get the bike dyno'd and a new custom map for the PCIIIusb by tomorrow I'm pretty excited, because finally we'll know if the dual-plugs offer any performance benefit... and I'll finally have my first custom map made specifically for/on the PCIIIusb, as my current map is simply my old PCIII custom map converted to the USB format. Only long term will give any hint of efficiency improvement offered by the dual-plug conversion though However, all things being equal, it should offer some. I'll update here al

.... "Gambalunga"? Sorry, ya lost me there BTW, I thought about using the art-deco logo below. When I first saw the logo last year, I thought it was super-spiffy, and I still do. But after thinking about it some more, I'm not so certain it goes with the flowing lines of the bike IMHO. I'll have to take another look at Joe Camarda's bike and think about it some more Any other opinions on the metal "Moto Guzzi" tank emblem? I may just buy a pair and "glue" them on my defective tank, for a test drive al

So, If the 2003 tanks works out fine logistically on my 2002 bike... as I mentioned, I'll need to get it painted since it was in an accident, and doesn't match anyway. So, I'll just get it painted champagne of course, and may paint the top "silver" stripe a nice metallic red to match the red highlights on the bike. Pretty simple and straightforward. But while trying to decide what to do about the badge/decal(I don't like the stock decal on the 2002, looks cheap IMHO) ... I actually thought that the classic metal block letter badges might look interesting on the tank I'm trying to picture it in my mind.... maybe a photo-chop is in order? It's the badge at the top of the photo below, "Moto Guzzi"... what do you think?

Thanks Brian ...but to some degree, not so much "tilting" as the bike didn't like to run when the temps were over much over 95 It seems to run now, at least so far al

Well, I guess the final note to this thread is that it does appear that my final modification, and suspicions about the recirculating fuel issue were effective and correct. I think that although complicated, and perhaps silly looking to some, the two "phases" of this modification did meet their goals: 1) Relocate and shield fuel-pump/filter/lines to reduce/eliminate vapor-lock 2) Make all the fuel contained in the tank available to the fuel-injection system I rode the bike for the last couple days in "hot" weather(80s), and so far have been lucky enough not to have it vapor-lock on me, even after some rather extreme and purposeful heat-soaks. So, unless there is a major problem or other observation, I guess I can close this thread now. As mentioned above, any further updates will be in the "wasted fuel" thread. Further, if the 2003 tank with the internal fuel-pump has similar capacity, range, and works out well retrofitted to my 2002 LeMans, this solution will be retired anyway for the sake of simplicity. But I hope that it provides some inspiration and guidance for those that want or need to try these modifications. al

Hrmm, well I guess we'll see. I measured the 00-02 tank and got 5.69 gallons for total capacity, per my trusty Shell Gas Station Pump As I mentioned in the "wasted fuel" thread, this is "close enough" to the 5.5 gallons specified per Guzzi. The capacity of the 03+ tanks per Guzzi, is 5.46 gallons, with a 1.32 gallon reserve.... whatever that means I mean honestly, no one has explained this to me yet, since we don't have a "reserve switch" either mechanical nor electronic that I know of So it seems like the new tanks must be a bit larger in some dimension, and I guess I'll learn what that is when I get the 03 tank. I do know that the right side under the tank is wider to accomodate the pump "module" but beyond that, I don't know how the dimensions may have changed. Here's hoping that the tank itself is not GROSSLY enlarged such that it won't play nice with my 02 fairing. We'll see I guess. Anyway, if the tank is a genuine 5.5ish gallons, most of which the pump can really actually siphon.... then that sounds good. I wouldn't mind sacrificing 10-20 miles range to clean up all the hoses, pumps, and filters... and eliminate the vapor-lock. But I wouldn't want to lose a whole gallon or more of capacity. Dunno yet... stay tuned. I'll let ya'll know what I find... once I have the 03 tank in-hand. al

BTW, I just filled up the 2002 tank after my modifications, from bone-dry. 5.69 US Gallons ...so the 5.5 gallons capacity specified from the manufacturer seems accurate, close enough, and represents total capacity of the tank, regardless of "reserve". ....and with the modifications detailed in this thread, all of that is now available to the fuel system It will be very interesting to compare this capacity to the 2003 with the in-tank fuel pump when it gets here in a week or three... I'll update the thread as soon as I get a reliable read from the low-fuel sensor if these modifications seem to have added any pre-warning range. al

No worries... if it doesn't bother you, then why worry ...but I'd get the free swag at least though al

Yep, looks good... and just like the "Sterling" finish Jet-Hot did my system in. It's not quite "chrome" like the muffler you have in the photo for comparison, but as you describe a bit "frosty" silver.... but still very nice. In fact, over time, it seems to get less "frosty" and more "chrome-y" The finish is durable, but it will scratch... just like chrome, so don't go lying it on the driveway and screwing it around I had excellent service from Jet-Hot, and they gave me great pricing. As I mentioned in 24/7, I still have a $25 coupon for Jet-Hot(off of a $200+ order), and anyone is welcome to it. I really can't recommend them enough. al

What do you mean they won't? That's awful It's a warantee recall from MGNA.... they "have to"... or at least some dealer will. It's not really to the dealer's discretion. I wouldn't try to force any reticent dealer to do the work though, as it would probably turn out shoddy, but I'd write MGNA to find a dealer within a reasonable range that will do the work for you(if you want it) or get the accessory trade package. Sorry to hear that... Here's hoping the new cases hold paint at least as long as the tranny/bevel (Although my tranny has a few teeny tiny bubbles ) I'm just excited to get a nearly free engine rebuild with better parts out of this. So in my mind, this whole affair is actually "good news"... in a twisted way If I keep the bike long enough such that all the paint begins to fail on the driveline, well, I'll cross that bridge then. After all, it really doesn't bother me that the paint fails after a few YEARS, just when it failed in a few months. I can either repaint them myself(silver or black) someday, or just strip it bare. Who knows al

...yeah a neighbor has one of those lifts for his HD, and really loves it. I thought about buying one, but I've gotten so used to using the MG stand now, there's no need. Plus I had concerns about putting the weight of the bike on the sump. OSH had the stands(motorcycle/jetski lifts) clearanced a few months back for like $99. al

Wow, how'd I miss John's rant back in January? I must have been out of town or something What a loss.... Anyway, I don't recall if the bikes were actually "lengthened" or if the steering head angle was simply changed... which of course would affect wheelbase and trail. But to answer your questions, the 00-01 models are the "faster" steering bikes, and the 02+ bikes have the "longer" wheelbase, and extra engine/tranny/frame brackets. But BTW, tire and suspension choices can negate much of the handling differences between the years. For example, Mike Stewart has noted that quicker steering tires on an 02+ bike really quicken things up. Hope that helps! al

.... whoo hoo, I received the remapped ECU today! I'll install it tomorrow, get the tank hooked up, and try to get an appointment at Hare Racing for a custom PCIII map ASAP(prolly early next week). So the "close-out" of this thread/project is nigh.... so close I can taste it al

BTW, I got a quote to paint the tank by a reputable shop in Rewood City(CycleFinish.net) for $350. They come highly recommended. Does this seem "reasonable"? I'm not shocked by the price, but I've never painted a tank for a bike before, so just touching base for a reality-check Thanks! al