al_roethlisberger

AFAIK, there is only a V11 Sport service manual... no LeMans specific ones I have the copy from: http://www.sportcyclepacific.com/featureditems.html It's $40USD But while the factory manual is a helpful resource, "Guzziology" is more helpful in an overall/general sense. al

...can't help with the additional "list" of items, as it really depends, and I'm sure more folks will chime-in(and there's a thread here somewhere )... although the spare relay, spark-plug, and some fuses are always a good thing But, you should have a hex "slug" that's about an inch and a half long in your kit that fits into the front fork and rear axle/bolt. It will fit into a socket, or one of the wrenches. al

From Terry's contacting the folks at Speedbleeder: Thanks Terry, I've got mine on order, and I'm sure others will find this info very useful al

My tail-light was wired backwards(from "normal" according to the rest of the world ), which I discovered when I installed my tail-light modulator, and it sounds like your original bulb somehow was wedged in there working as was mine I had to disassemble/rewire my socket, then all was fine. I don't know if this is your issue for sure(other than possibly putting the new bulb in backwards??) .... but it's something to check-out al

...and indeed, that is a good question for sure One unfortunately I don't have the answer to as I don't have personal access to a large enough sample of those affected and their circumstances My "VL" was very rare(only happened once, in 100+ degree high-altitude Yosemite weather - about the worst-case scenario)... until of course now the other day and the report I gave above. I have no idea why with some others it seems to be more regular, other than perhaps their fuel-supply line was *very* close to the head... dunno But as pointed out earlier in this thread, and perhaps as a consideration toward your question.... we have seen no less than 3 different(maybe more?) fuel-pump locations on the V11 Sport/LeMans from 2000->2002(post-2002 have in-tank systems).... so with all these variables thrown into the mix along with different climates.... it's a crap-shoot to nail-down the exact cause from one person's incident/perspective *sigh* It's too bad MG never did address this other than surreptitiously moving the pump around multiple times, and eventually redesigning the pump/tank in 2003... so it's up to the owners that have the issue(I ride in high-desert, so can't risk this) to find a solution I guess al

Hiya Leafman60 A quick search returned: Forum "Sticker Removal" Thread It's short, but hope that helps! Good luck al

.....

Good thoughts Emry, but so far this has been a transient issue that once cooled off runs just fine again once the bubble "condenses". Once that happens, the pump reprimes and pressurizes just fine, and the bike will run again until it heat-soaks again It definitely loses pressure once the VL issue arises, but once the bike cools, it pressurizes just fine.... otherwise it indeed wouldn't run without something like "priming" But so far, to run again, only time and cooling seems to be required. In my case, I'm 99% positive it's my new relatively unprotected location(the ends aren't shielded) of the external fuel-pressure regulator.. My thoughts in this regard are: 1) It ran fine before in much hotter(90 degree) weather with the same setup, with no VL, except for the regulator relocation 2) It ran fine last week up and down the mountain in 50 degree weather, with this exact setup So for me, this is actually "reassuring" because it narrows the possible causes a bit When I am back home from Washington, I'll tinker with it and try to find a new location for the regulator al

....well, the stock screen wasn't "awful" for me since I am 5'8" tall, but the new one definitely created a larger pocket of still air, and my helmet is more-or-less totally in calm air now. al

...ahh, but keep in mind we are not talking about the cam itself in regard to lubrication, but oil-pressure pumping up the new hydraulic lifters. It appears that the new hydraulic lifters, once collapsed, take a moment to "pump up", and until then the lifter smacks against the lobe face causing damage. Without sufficient oil-pressure, this damage is cumulative. More on the issue: http://www.wildguzzi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4046 al

HAHAHAHAHA... guess what?! I made the vapor-lock problem WORSE Figures I've been riding the bike with this setup for the last month in sub 50 degree temps, and all has been fine. But I was going to take the bike up for a dyno run and PCIII map, since last Thursday was so nice and WARM... HA! Well, as soon as the temp got above about 65 degrees F, there she went! But just let it cool for about 20 minutes, and I'm off again for a few miles, then... cough cough, dead. Fortunately it's not a big deal, and not completely unexpected. I'm pretty sure I know the culprit. Since I had the basic setup of relocated fuel-pump and modified plumbing(my "Phase I" ) in place since last Summer, and it worked fine in high-heat... the problem has to be something "new" I've done. And in this case, that's the relocated fuel pressure regulator. And since I've been riding the bike with no other performance issues with this setup in colder weather(and my aforementioned experience Thursday), it's obviously thermal. So, that pretty much means that my initial suspicion that the new location for the regulator, it being a big chunk of very heat-conductinvealuminum , isn't ideal. So I'll just find a new location and add some more heat protection after my holiday. ...funny how experimentation goes al

Not "news" for many, but from the MGNOC list, just an FYI: As an aside, it's too bad that MG tried to "fix something that wasn't broke" with the "self adjusting" hydraulic lifters on these motors, only to create a new reliability/durability issue I'm sure part, if not all, of the reason for going with the new lifters was EPA noise regulatory related, however I feel for the owners of these bikes... al

...so to answer the initial question, personally I think they look stupid Apologies And be aware, they are retreads. Not that this necessarily means that they are substandard tires, as they apparently use quality carcasses from Dunlop, etc... but You know, I used to run colored tires on my BMX bikes back in the 70s/80s, but I think it looks just a bit too "poseur" and "bling" for a motorcycle... but hey that's just me al

...BTW, also wanted to note that the "lines" of the new windscreen are very complimentary to that of the fairing IMHO It is taller, ergo perhaps less "sporty" looking than the stock unit, but it looks like a factory piece, and is very stylish. al

So, I got my "smoke" colored screen installed tonight before the Alices meet, and it works like a charm It's very well made, and fit perfectly without any drama. The edging is also well made, although not shown in the photos on the first page of this thread. All-in-all a top-notch kit! Although a bit pricey, if you are looking for a taller screen, I heartily recommend this one. al

Well, it was a light turnout tonight(8 folks), and I was the only V11 Sport-ish bike there ... but it was nice to see everyone. And it was much warmer this time around at 59 degrees, versus 39 on my last visit Alices now has the back dining hall more-or-less reserved for us ongoing now that they realize our get together is recurring. So as the days get longer, and temps rise... hope to see more folks show up on their bikes! al

You may be correct, but as an aside... l cleaned the heck out of my rear caliper with brake cleaner(as suggested by others) some time back.... and the groan/drag ceased, at least for now. When I washed/sprayed it out, a TON of brake dust came out... it just kept coming and coming... Someone suggested that the inverted nature of the caliper perhaps accumulates dirt/dust and interferes with the piston's free travel. I don't know if this is the same root cause/solution for everyone with this issue, but a thorough cleaning worked wonders for me al

Understood, and I thought the same... but then thought about it being worth the risk it if I got a bunch of aluminum sludge in the oil just for a test Let us know how it goes al

Just for clarification, the V11 takes the M6 size "all around" (brakes and clutch slave?) thx =) al

Correct

Awesome! ...maybe I should go in and "grind a stress riser" into my flywheel and run it up till it explodes so I can get a new engine/tranny too! No reason, but hey... seems like a good deal It's nice to hear a "good" MG warrantee story I was wondering where/why you got the new Scura engine that you sent me a photo of al

...boy it's a good thing Will Creedon isn't on this list, otherwise you'd get an ear-full of his opinion on gears ...although Pete Roper might chime-in as well From what I've seen written, I don't think that gears will really "tighten up" the timing on these bikes much, as the stock chain seems OK and quite reliable. If I hadn't read so many horror-stories about the aluminum gears(versus unobtanium steel gears), I'd definitely go for it just for the SOUND though My friend's VFR sounds soooo cool "whining" along Opinions vary of course, but the various reviews of galled and worn low-mileage aluminum gears frightens me ...now if someone just made a quality set of steel kit, along with the appropriate mod instructions for oiling, etc... but alas, they don't It would be quite expensive I'm sure anyway al

Yes, that is true... and something to be aware of I think someone pointed that out in the original thread al

Here ya go I now have the PCIIIusb mounted instead, and couldn't use the conduit brackets anymore, but used some nylon cable ties.... same net effect: PCIII Alternate Mounting Location I think it's a great location, and don't plan to tinker with the "buttons" since I spent so much on the darned "custom map" al

Pick up the current issue of "Sport Rider" They have the CF wheels pictured above and several others reviewed al