al_roethlisberger

I find that it's great on those 8+ hours days where you can just partially lock the Throttlemeister so that it lightly holds the throttle and gives your right hand a break from gripping the bar..... and you can just "tap" the grip either way to adjust speed I've never used it as a pure "lock" holding the throttle open at one setting so I can be "hands free" al

You should post a photo of your VC installation, and which model VC you used. I just couldn't get it to work without significant modification, and I tried 2 different models al

I don't know the weight savings on the OZ wheels, but I do know that the savings for rear with the Dymags is significant(something on the order of 10lbs I think), and I think the PVM wheels might be similarly light. The fronts aren't as big a savings, but anything more than a couple/three pounds is still a lot when considered at rotating weight. Another issue, although minor, is the aesthetic.... some of the aftermarket wheels are very angular/etc and look great on many bikes, but IMHO the lines of the Sport/LeMans really lend itself to the 3 spoke curvey OEM Brembos and similar(like the Dymags). Also, just a suggestion... stick with aluminum wheels for the street. Yes, the weight savings aren't as great, but one good pot-hole on a set of CF or Magnesium wheels... and you'll be buying a new one I think the Dymags have a set with Magnesium spokes, but aluminum rims Anyone have any real-world experience regarding durability with newer Carbon Fiber or Magnesium rims on the street? al

PVM as well.... I just know of OZ, Dymag, and PVM..... all very pricey. I like the PVM wheels, but they're about $2500 for the pair. I think EMA USA had a sale on them a while back, and offered a few hundred off. You might check with them. This would be my "ultimate" upgrade, lighter wheels, but just don't have that much dough at one time to drop on wheels al

....that's interesting, as I couldn't get a Vista-cruise to work on the LeMans I've heard good things about the VC, but for me the TM was a great combination of throttle-lock AND extra-heavy bar ends al

...how about a tire thread too... oh wait........

The screen is(should be) a black plastic frame about 3 inches long, with rectangular screened holes. One end is threaded to screw into the petcock body. There isn't any way to "make is smaller" in diameter... but again, the hole in the tank is quite large, and petcock base can move around a bit if the two button-head hex bolts are loosened to realign the base and hole in the tank. Once you adjust the base, the screen/tube should slide right in. I had this same issue on the fuel-regulator side when I installed a petcock in it's place. al

Yep, that's the stock configuration pre-2003(and some 2002's where they moved the pump out front ala Centauro/1100i). My 2002 LeMans had the exact same setup as pictured. al

I can't tell you anything about how the low-fuel switch works... but can offer a couple thoughts on your other observations..... During my pump-relocation "phase III" ... where I was constructing the next Mars Lander fuel-tank "balance tube" ... I too noticed that upon removing the petcock, that it's screen was just ENCRUSTED with white grainy gunk But I guess this is really a "good thing" as it didn't make it through to the pump, so .... I guess the screens are doing their job. In regard to the screen not fitting through the hole, I found this to be the case at first as well, but all I had to do is loosen the base that the petcock attaches to, and move it around a bit(there's wiggle room) and the holes will align and give more room to allow the screen/pickup-tube to slide right into that tank. I haven't had a chance to really test my balance-tube/dual-petcock setup for increased range yet, but I'm hoping it will address the issue you mention about additional fuel being trapped. All I know so far is that it runs al

The photo I posted was for a "shop" or "paddock" stand, but Carl's response, and my request for more photos is for a true "center stand" attached to the bike. TLM makes a center stand, but I've only seen a couple close-up photos of it installed on a Sport1100, and was hoping we could get a set of photos from different angles. al

Is that "as close as one can get" to the same height for the stock tire? The reason I ask is that the new Ohlins adds a little height to the rear already(by having a more correct spring rate ) so I don't want to compound any height additions al

Thanks for doing the math! ...I still say it's .47 liter So, with a 170 rear on the 5.5 rim, what is the correct profile/aspect ratio one should choose to maintain correct height? al

John, Can you post photos of the TLM center stand(not shop stand) you've installed, or a link to them? I've been asking for photos of this stand installed on a newer V11 Sport/LeMans, but the only photos we've seen are closeups on a 1100Sport. I'd love to see photos from various angles with the stand in the up and down position so we can see how it looks.... exspecially from the rear, side, and from above(rider's perspective). Thanks! al

IMHO, one should always "glue"(even as simple as hair-spray) any grips on... whether on a bicycle or motorcycle. I've seen far too many cases of grips getting wet from rain, etc... and just sliding right off! That can make for shocking maneuvering YMMV ...but I wouldn't feel comfortable just sliding them on. al

....and there the lesson is concluded

No problem! Good luck BTW, another cool feature... being dense SS, they "bounce" really well when you drop one from 4ft onto a concrete floor... uhh, yeah, I think you'll be really pleased with them al

Thanks Tracy Excellent and technically informative article al

Here are the two forum threads specifically on "Throttlemeister" returned via the Search function: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...throttlemeister http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...throttlemeister The first thread was when I first contacted the Throttlemeister folks back in Summer 2002 right after buying the bike, and they didn't have a specific fit for the Sport/LeMans but supplied me with a universal fit for the correct bar diameter. I believe they have a more specific unit for the Sport/LeMans now. I can't recommend the unit enough, top notch workmanship Excellent throttle "lock" and great looking and heavy bar-ends, all in one package, with a nice Italian red stripe to boot The photo below shows their "heavy" unit installed, and although the "heavy" model is long, the photo's perspective exaggerates the effect unfortunately. In real life, the "heavy" units are a great fit for the bike. You can see photos of them installed on my bike at: Al's Throttlemeister Gallery al

Agreed, everyone's idea of comfort will be very subjective, hence the variety of grips out there For me, larger diameter grips = more pain That's the primary reason, other than they were also kinda hard, that I dumped the Hot Grips brand heated grips, and installed the Dual Star heaters under the Pro Grips referenced earlier. Their large diameter exacerbated my carpal-tunnel numbness, and made it hard for me to feel like I had my hands all the way around the grip... and in control. I like the narrow(circumference) feel of the stock grips, but they were too hard. Pro Grips makes many many different types, hardness, diameter, etc grips BTW. So head down to one's local MC shop and give them all a squeeze A casual squeeze of the these grips may belie how comfortable they are though. I don't know how Pro Grip does it, but the "gel" they impregnate these things with really soak up the vibrations and make a huge difference as compared to the stockers, and other grips I've tried.... including big squishy ones that just pack down while riding, and insulate all ride feedback But again, it's like everything else in life, it's a very subjective choice, and one man's perfect grip may be a source of discomfort for another al P.S. ...there was a question about "how to put the grips on"? Well, that's like an "oil thread", everybody has an opinion ... everything from hair-spray(which I've used sucessfully for years) to various industrial adhesives For my most recent application I used a high-temp epoxy made for rubber/plastics, only because I applied them over my Dual-Star heating elements. I would have probably considered hair-spray again otherwise.... which might have still worked, I dunno I suspect that when the grips finally wear out, which based on my old pair on the FJ... should be a very long time... I'll probably have to cut them off, and install new heating elements when I ruin them with the blade But hey, they're only $30, and take about 30 minutes to install, so if I have to do that every few years, I can live with it

http://www.mgcycle.com/V11Sport.html $139

Absolutely... the "Pro Grips Superbike 699 Gel Grip" has been my choice for a long time. Squishy, a good diameter, nice looking, and all-day comfort

...hrmm, nope never heard of those, but will be interested to see a photo Why do you seek these? ...extra comfy?? al

I can't help with the specifics, but you can definitely successfully paint the plastics on the bike, including the tank. But you will have to talk to someone knowledgeable in painting plastics that can provide either the correct primer or tinted paint that will adhere. One of these days I'd love to get a whole other "suit of clothes" to paint and play with colors for the bike. Maybe I'll run across affordable bits and pieces one day. The hardest would be to find an affordable undamaged fairing I'm thinking ORANGE with a white stripe right down the middle! al

Did they happen to mention what parts they are developing? Please be sure to post some pics of your extender when done al