al_roethlisberger

Dunno, but I never could read the oil on the black plastic dipstick, just about regardless of lighting.... bad design honestly.

Naw, we generally have about 3 grades of fuel here, ranging from ~87 to ~92(depending on location). I always put high-grade in, and generally don't have any detonation problems. I had some last Spring right after my head work, but that seemed tied to my misadjusted valves, as I didn't have the problem after we got that sorted out. I have no idea on the cam question either, but I posed the question to TLM. I've dropped TLM a note, so we'll see what they say as well. Thanks for following up for me al

....as I said, don't quote me I could be waaaay off, and just wrote it from memory. Point is though, the figure is significant. The next time I talk to Mike Rich, especially if Mike Mason has a chance to talk to him, I'll double-check the figure. al

Good point Cliff, and Will Creedon had some similar comments on the Wildguzzi forum. What I think happened is that as I recal Ken at Evoluzione was not(and may still not be, I have no idea ) a big fan of the PCIII, so I think was using increasing pressure to grossly enrichen fuel across the board. This may have crudely given some performance enhancement without having a PCIII or remapping the ECU. So I'll sleep on it tonight, but I think I might just install the 3bar cartridge from the OEM regulator into my remote Weber regulator body. al

Thanks for the information Mike, that's certainly good to know. And I'll let TLM know about my future choice regarding the new cam combination when they let me know about their current solution for ignition mapping. They may indeed have a similar recommendation based upon that

Perhaps this question is a little late(although I posed it briefly here once before in another thread), as I've already got the 3.5bar fuel-pressure regulator installed in the fuel circuit of my "balance tube" project, but hey... I thought I'd ask anyway Anyway, a while back I was talking to Ken Zeller at Evoluzione.net about some of his aftermarket accessories, one of which was an adjustable fuel-pressure regulator kit for the V11. I asked him why one would want this kit, and he said that his tests showed that once the intake and exhaust was opened up on these bikes, increasing the stock fuel pressure to about 50psi(~3.5bar) over the stock 3bar unit optimized performance. He also noted that often the OEM system was pressurized a tad under-spec. So, what with all my mods... exhausts, crossover, pods, and head-work... and was needing an external/remote fuel pressure regulator for my balance-tube project anyway, I got a Weber 3.5barcartridge(I can change it back and forth to 3bar with the cartridge from the OEM unit) regulator. So here's the question: Is there any risk to the injectors, or otherwise to the fuel system or performance by using this 3.5bar regulator? Just a double-check/second-opinion troll al

....hrmm, not sure. I'm just going by what Mike Rich says, and he was concerned about the valves getting "tangled up" when both open with the x10, as you mention. Could you do us a favor? Could you give Mike Rich a call, and talk to him about your observations? This would be really good to clarify, as many folks would like to the use x10, but I think(going from memory) he said they need to be sunk 20 thousandths. Mike Rich Motorsports FOR TECHNICAL SUPPORT DIAL: (631) 874-7032 FOR TOLL FREE SALES DIAL: 1-866-MRM-SPORT Let us know what he says! thx al

"vapor lock" and "tank suck" FAQ ...sounds like your tip-over valve isn't oriented vertically as it needs to be, causing vacuum to build in the tank. The valve should be removed, or just lashed to the frame to keep it vertical(which is what I did). The other option is to remove the red rubber sealing plug under the tank cap, but I don't recommend that, as that just addresses the symptom(the tank not breathing) instead of the cause(the tip-over valve). al

Hi Jasper, This is very interesting feedback, as my experience talking to TLM in Holland(Martijn) was interestingly in contrast with what they provided for you: 1) After asking them several times for clarification, TLM assured me that they sell this "conversion" with absolutely no adjustment to the timing curve on the ECU. It simply wasn't required is what they reiterated. Although it was agreed that there was certainly some advantage to getting the timing curve adjusted accordingly if possible/available. The problem was that in most cases, shops didn't have the ability to do so either via a lack of ECU software, or experience or a dyno to optimize the new ignition map. The only folks I could find in the USA are in Michigan I think, that have the experience and software to move the ignition map. 2) TLM sold me the same OEM coils as installed on our bikes, except that they are dual-output. Mine are a mixed pair, but one is clearly marked "Champion". I wonder if these are the same Lancia/Fiat coils you reference? It may be hard to tell from the photo below, but the coils I purchased from TLM are exactly the same as our stock units, harness hookup and all(so it's just plug/play), other than having dual-outputs. Can you look at yours and see if these Lancia/Fiat coils are the same? I'd be very curious. In regard to the location of the oil supply, if you scroll up and a bit and look at the overhead photo I posted, you can see where Mike Rich has relocated the oil fee to the rear of the head quite neatly. It is very good work. Here's an interesting question, I wonder if I shipped my ECU to TLM if they could change the ignition to the optimized map for dual-plugging? I'll drop them an email, but could you ask as an aside the next time you speak with them? thx! al

..that's true, in that the x10 not that wild of a cam from what I understand. Mike Rich is actually now recommending the x10 based on many owners' feedback, and says the x9 is really quite mild and is what he would consider still very much a street cam, and that the x10 isn't too much "wilder." I would give the x10 a try if it didn't require my getting the valves redone. Since I just had them done last Winter while I had the heads ported, I don't want to send them off again just for an unknown and probably minimal difference. I would love to see similar bikes dyno'd with both cams, to see the differences and where their "sweet spots" are for both. al

I really liked the sight-glass on my FJ1200. I wish I had that instead. Very easy to read, and no mistaking oil-level. al

I painted mine white.... seems to help.

...which I will be installing in a month I'd get an x10 but don't want to get a valve job again for just the cam, which requires the valves to be sunk a bit. So it's the x9 for me al

....yep, there's no replacement for displacement (Heh, I'm a poet and didn't know it! ) There are several cams and other mods that will move the torque curve on the V11 appropriately, but it generally is a trade off. It just depends what one's goals are... low end grunt or high end power. In the real world, to me low and mid end power is the way to go, and would happily sacrifice a few top HP to get a smooth power delivery. Although I've mentioned many times that I'd like to get 90 rwhp as a goal, IMHO top HP numbers are often more about bragging rights versus real world rideability. Torque is king al

I will, but now that we are so close to my case rebuild, I'll probably wait to get the remap(and dyno run) until after my other modifications are done. So that will of course make it impossible to tell what contribution the dual-plugs made. But it depends, I still may.... we'll see if I have time and money. Perhaps something could be gleaned from that run if I do it. But more to the point, Mike's dyno work will be specifically aimed at evaluating the modification, so I suspect his data and knowledge will yield more meaningful results. al

.....riiiiiiiiiiight I never even bothered to try since I was getting the cam from Mike

I have no idea how to contact Megacycle.... only because I haven't tried, and am getting the cam directly through Mike Rich. You had your heads setup for the x10(sinking the valves) or just got the right HD springs for any of the Megacycle cams? If I had known ahead of time, I would have had the valves setup for the x10 when I had the head work done last year. But I didn't know.... But it sounds like the x9 is very nice anyway... close enough. al

Interesting update from Mike Rich.... He told me today that he should have his Dyno setup and running "soon" and he is very keen to finally get some objective data on his dual-plug setup. Up to this point he's been happy to sell the conversion to people, but he was unable to unequivocally say whether it was ~$300 well-spent or not. Most have assumed that it would increase efficiency, and maybe even power, but there hasn't been much real data to confirm these assumptions on the newer V11 bikes. So, hopefully he'll learn something in the next months, and we'll know whether dual-plugging is really worth it or not. At this point, mine work fine... but I can't tell anything yet regarding mileage(it's been too soon, an not enough riding since the weather went South) or via "seat of the pants". So I can't offer anything other than gee-whiz factor feeback either But this is one thing I really like about Mike... Although like any businessman, he is certainly out to "make a buck", he's also very honest and conscientious enough to not encourage his customers' wasting money when there is no benefit. Plus he says he hates trying to weld on Guzzi's very porous head castings I'll check back with him later and see what he learns. His findings would make a fitting closure for this thread al

...ahh, good... then that will be one less "mod" I'll be tempted to do As an aside, my engine case job is still tentatively scheduled for Feb. I pretty much know what I'm getting added, but my jury is still out on whether to bother on the relatively pricey Carillo rods... but I need to decide soon to get everything ordered. - Pistons $299 (10.5-ish:1 actual) - Megacycle 620x9 $395 (would like to try the x10 as it is getting good reviews, but that requires new valve job to sink them a bit, and I don't want to do that again just for this) - Requisite heavier springs, retainers, etc... $160 The only thing I'm going to wait on doing is the Ti pushrods, as I can do them myself later, and I can just see trying to educate the dealer on their special clearances, and the requirement to reset lash after about 30 miles "break in". It also saves me about $200 on this project. Mike Rich says that in normal riding(versus 9/10s or racing situations) I probably wouldn't really notice the difference with the Carillos, and the stock rods are bullet-proof. So I dunno, getting them adds another $700-ish to the total(when taking engine rebalance into the equation). al

This is a rare offering, as Dynojet only makes a few batches of these for Todd every year or two. So if you have a Daytona, Sport1100, or Centauro and have been wanting to get a PCIII that will plug into the harness, here is your chance. http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-16M.html ...no affiliation with Todd, but I do remember people asking about this off-and-on over the last year, and Todd had been sold out for a while. al

I may have missed this crucial point in all the going back and forth about which bikes had the plate, and those that didn't ... but.... Quick question for clarification: On current V11 bikes, is there a lug/place to fasten this plate to the frame as a retrofit if one wanted to? Just wondering if it would be as easy as ordering the plate, and just bolting it on... al

So here's a dumb question With all this talk about lubricating the u-joints, intervals, capacity, etc... it got me thinking and wondering. What I am wondering is practically how long do the u-joints and shaft... regularly lubricated or not ... really last? 1) Why I wonder is that in my experience with automotive u-joints, some very abused and never ever lubricated.... they last FOREVER . If the Guzzi u-joints give up the ghost any sooner than that, I ask.... why? I'm no certified mechanic, nor a mechanical engineer, but I like to think that I am relatively well versed with basic concepts and what to expect out of components of this kind. So I find it surprising that these joints give out at all during a normal life of a motorcycle( 2) And, second question, could someone conceivably have their shaft/joints once worn out... rebuilt with a better unit? I see ads in auto racing/hot-rod catalogs all the time for "needle bearing" lifetime sealed units that "never need lubrication". Thoughts? Anyway, bottom line, just curious at what mileage with minimal maintenance a modern Guzzi owner should expect their u-joints to need replacement. After all, the whole point is to have higher reliability and less maintenance than a chain Since this is my first shaft bike, and my bike is still very young.... I just wonder what to expect in regard to shaft/joint longevity. Perhaps those with a longer term of ownership can offer their experience. al

....yep, but they don't offer a full system for any of the 2V and new bikes, such as the V11. I don't know why they offer(ed?) a "full system" for the Daytona and Centauro, except that maybe the 4-valve engines' OEM headers weren't compatible with their exhaust slip-ons, crossovers, or perhaps ideal for performance I dunno. But all the 2V engine offerings are just slip-on mufflers.... even from Staintune. al

As Carl said, technically a larger airbox will perform better by creating a large reserve of still air, thereby reducing another variable in intake characteristics, and delivering a consistent air charge. But also as Carl points out, the challenge with making a large airbox, especially with our bikes, is the lack of space. The current airbox for the V11 Sport, while serviceable, isn't large enough for the application, and the plumbing is less than efficient. So, one has two alternatives: 1) Do whatever one can do to increase airbox volume. Increasing the length of the intake runners like the discontinued Evoluzione kit is one example. 2) Remove the airbox, and use individual filters or remove the lid. Given the relatively still air above the fuel-tank, removing the lid may be the best compromise with using the bottom of the airbox to control air turbulance, while opening up the box volume. It's hard to say what works best, especially when with EFI we all can tune the system to optimize performance based on the different configurations. Good luck, any of the options above can and will deliver similar performance. al

....just to add.. I don't think anyone makes a "full exhaust" for the V11 Sport/LeMans. Since the stock headers are quite simple, and already stainless, I doubt that there would be much benefit in an aftermarket "full" system. That said, the "other half" of the system, consisting of cross-over and cans now have several options these day, uunlike just as recently as less than 2 years ago where options were pretty limited. The closest option to a "full exhaust" from a single vendor that I am aware of would be Mistral or FBF who both make cans and cross-overs. Again, I don't think anyone makes a complete end-to-end system(other than OEM of course), as I don't think there would be any real benefit. al P.S. Regarding D&D exhausts, although I have never personally owned their product, my observations on others' bikes concurs with those mentioned above. D&D fit/finish is below par, and they are very very loud. Of course, this really isn't a surprise given their target market, Ricky-race-replica and the HD crowd. And as an aside, in my humble opinion CF for street applications, especially exhausts, is a poor choice for long term durability. Heat, water, and Sun will deteriorate the resin over a surprisingly quick amount of time, making for some unattractive fuzzy grey cans