al_roethlisberger

Contact Todd Eagan at www.guzzitech.com He has worked directly with Dynojet to develop the PCIIIusb model, and does ongoing development with them. I noticed that the link above does list the PCIIIusb for the V11 Sport, but to my knowledge, no one but Todd had a run(and a small one at that) of PCIIIusb units as they sell so few Todd will also draw on his extensive database of maps to load one that is as close as possible for your configuration/modifications until you can get a custom map made. al

Great to see you there Joe, along with Carl Sheesh, I tell ya though, it was pretty chilly riding back down the mountain though. My thermometer read 38 degrees at one point I think, and at speed, that's pretty brisk..... brrr It'll be interesting to see how many folks show up in "fair weather" next Spring. al

Powder coating is just "dry paint"... and would similarly fail. And especially in the case of PC, it is applied by melting it at a few hundred degrees F, so it would probably soften and come right off the headers. The only durable finish on headers would be a ceramic coating like Jet-Hot offers. al

What are the 2003 models using instead of the plastic angle/bevel drive? Anyone have a photo? al

... heh heh, as luck would have it, my tach fogged up for the first time in AGES last night. But then again, it was 39 degrees, and quite humid outside. It started to clear after about 20 minutes of riding though. Go figure I'm not worried about it though.

These threads might help, the first one has VIN ranges, while the second has the actual recall message posted: Forum Rosso Recall Thread Forum Recall Thread al

Well, all I can say Murray is "give it a try" and you let us know That elongated side access hole is for removing the cinch bolts that hold the front u-joing to the transmission shaft/spline. I think the zerk actually points to the rear of the bike, so you can't get to it through that hole. With the u-joint "shatter gard" and swingarm in place, it's very tight in there I'm going to try to get to it from above with my swivel as suggested. al

...oh geez, that's one for the books

Yep, Jet-Hot is the way to go IMHO for coating the exhausts. Several folks on the forum have used them, and they are a top-notch operation. Check out the discussion below: Forum Exhaust Coatings Thread Regarding your solution Nemo, here's a suggestion: as the stock exhausts are pretty cheap anyway, you could pick up a set of them for about $50, and cut off the elbow that goes leads into the cans from the crossover. This would give you the bend/tuck back toward the rear of the bike, and as a bonus, they have the proper exhaust clamp welded on and are nice high-quality stainless steel Then you could look at attaching a small silencer like the ones you used, or something similarly small. That would be the best looking, durable, and cheapest solution to getting the correct "look" I would think. Check out eBay, there are stock LaFranconi exhausts on there all the time. I just saw a silver set for about $50 the other day. Or just check with your local dealer, as they usually have tons of "take offs" that people discard when changing out to aftermarket mufflers. They may even have a damaged pair they'll give you, as all you need is the lead-in tubes, and would be tossing the actual cans. Just a thought... al

So, while putting my back wheel all back on after stripping the edges, I went ahead and greased everything... well except for that front zerk which is still giving me some fits No worries though, I'll get that sucker eventually Anyway, here's a question though.. The driveshaft actually has three zerks on it. The two in the u/cardan-joints themselves, and one actually on the shaft between the rear u/cardan-joint and the driveshaft spline junction. I'm wondering what this zerk lubricates, as one can easily lube the driveshaft splines. Is this what that zerk is for anyway?? ...lubricating the driveshaft splines That's all I can figure. al P.S. I also wanted to bump this topic to the top again, since it's Winter in the Northern Hemisphere, and it's a good time to do this sort of maintenance

Certainly interesting, but I agree that from the front the angle of the exhausts looks OK, but from the rear and rear-quarter they seem to stick up and out a bit more than my personal taste would care for I'd be concerned about the longevity of the rattle-can header paint... well almost any rattle-can paint's durability long-term. But especially on the headers, the high heat will undoubtedly make it look leprous in short order. You might want to check with someone like Jet-Hot. I know they have colored coatings, although I don't know if they have white. Their coatings are pretty inexpensive, very durable, and lower exhaust heat. Also, keep an eye on those exhaust tips if you've only put them on with J.B. Weld. As you know, these bikes vibrate quite a bit, and those heavy tips are really going to get a shaking and put stress on that joint. If anything, I'd use the same exhaust clamps as are on the stock cans to hold them on. Keep an eye on the crossover itself too, as again those big heavy tips flappin' around on the ends of those crossover outlets will put additional stress on it. Interesting work though Certainly 'different' al

I think the "drilled hole" was in the back and bottom of the plastic housing that holds the instrument. That being said, most of the "foggy" tachs I've seen seem to just eventually work themselves out once exposed to a few good hot sunny days. al

That's correct, even with the stock dual-can configuration, each muffler is not exclusive to each cylinder as the cross-over connects both sides of the exhaust system. So whether is a single or dual outlet, that consideration isn't terribly relevant. This is why when tuning the bike, the tuner's gas analyzer probe only needs to be, and often is, inserted and left in one side. Here is your answer to the "hows" and "whys" of exhaust tuning and scavenging: Forum Crossover Thread al

Yes, it's no longer on Tuesdays but on the 2nd Monday of the month. Let me know if you can attend! Hope to see you then. Doc -------------------------------------------- Guzzi Night Monday Dec 8th at Alice's Resturant 7:15pm Hi, We're having Guzzi Nights!!!! Every second Monday of the month, we're having "Guzzi Night" at Alice's Resturant in the town of Woodside. It's a very popular motorcycle hangout on the weekends and is at the corner of Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35) and Woodside Road (Hwy 84). What: Guzzi Nights at Alice's When: Every second Monday of the month at 7:15pm. Next one: December 8th Where: Alice's Resturant (Hwy 35 and Hwy 84) 650-851-0303 Cost: Whatever your dinner is. How to sign up: e-mail me or just show up I'll be riding one of my 5 Guzzis. Doc Wongwww.docwong.com '78 Red Lemans 1 '78 Silver Lemans 1 '74 Police Eldo '72 Ambassador '67 V700

It's funny, just the other day I noticed some odd crazing of the finish on my tank under the clear coat. So I called the dealer to let them know to start the warrantee process. While perusing eBay, I found that Moto International in Seattle has a Rosso Mandello tank with the exact defect, although a bit worse and on the opposite side, but same location. ...odd coincidence. Anyone else have this defect? BTW, the tank is going for cheap so far. al

I still have to wonder how much life G&B has left(although it looks fine right now ) since Ghezzi went to Moto Guzzi to do the MGS-01, and there have been rumours that Brian is going to Lamborghini for their bike project. As much as you liked the Furia muffler, didn't it give you a lot of trouble by cracking in several places repeatedly? al

Dunno about the fasteners... But everything I've read seems to indicate that the ~12k mile replacement of the shaft and cardan joints is a bit... a whole lotta bit... liberal. Most think this is just CYA boilerplate, and if the shaft and joints are well maintained, they can easily go over 50k miles with no problem. Now have I run a shaft that long?? No, but that's what I've heard. So take it with a grain of salt al

Dan is supposed to be testing a heavier duty relay for us ASAP. I am supposedly on his test-mule list, but I haven't heard from him in a couple weeks. al

Yep, it's sprung weight... Check with Zeb and his G&B SuperTwin. He's got an aftermarket gauge cluster that's very compact and attractive. But I suspect it's pricey.... looks like a Swiss watch But I have to say, I like the Guzzi cluster... simple and elegant. al

Sorry to see you go Jeff... but you can't "hold out" until Spring? I only ask because I would think you could get a better price once riding season comes back around. Good luck al

Yep, Mike Rich said much the same whilst describing his new pistons to me a couple months back. Thanks for the info I'm still not certain who's pistons I'll be getting, but I'm leaning towards Mike's just because I know his work is so good, and he seemed to consider(although not necessarily solve) the issues mentioned above whlie designing his. al

So, I couldn't find the old "rear spline" thread where we discussed the grease, or lack thereof, on the rear-wheel splines.... so this one will have to do But, I took off my rear wheel on my '02 LeMans, and lo-and-behold, the factory actually DID grease mine I guess all '02's aren't subject to this oversight after all But, after I finish stripping the edges of the wheel, I'll want to add a little more of this grease, as I'm sure my repeated washings, etc will remove some. So, what kind do ya'll recommend? The OEM grease seems to be a red... almost "wax" versus a liquid grease. So when I go to the local auto-shop, what should I ask for? And just an observation: Based on looking at the grease on the plate covering the cush-drive, and talking to Mike Stewart(who added a bit too much), it seems obvious that one wants to be judicious in applying any grease as the rotating wheel slings the grease from the hub outward, and one wouldn't want that all over the wheel and tire. Even the thick "wax-like" grease on mine has slung across the plate in strings over time. Anyway, if anyone knows the secret code-word for the correct grease to apply, just let me know The OEM stuff seems very thick and hard, but I guess it loosens up under the heat of the rear drive. al

Yikes..... Too bad, that's gonna entail major surgery. I guess on the bright side, it'll give you the opportunity to tinker with the engine if you want to while it's apart ...I guess you'll have to revisit your insurance claim again. I wonder if they'll total it now, since it was close before, right?? al

The manual petcock is indeed 90-degree.... which I find should be easier to allow routing the supply line up higher. al

Maybe, but based on his thermal measurements, and his description of the scenario/environment of the "vapor lock" failure, I doubt it was much if ever. AFAIK, he reported the vapor-lock only during the typical "vapor lock" ride, park, heat-soak cycle... not intermittently... say during a ride, under top vibration conditions, which would be indicative of an intermittent electrical cut-off of the pet-cock ? al