al_roethlisberger

Ok, maybe this seems like a bone-head question, but this ain't my old carb'd FJ1200 Anyway, my bike is currently idling too high. I think the shop set the idle a bit higher than normal waaaay back when we were having all the idling problems, later solved by a valve adjustment. But for the life of me, other than tweaking with the bypass screws, I'm not sure how to adjust the idle down to ~1000/1100rpm Right now it's closer to 1500 or a tad more according to the Vague-lia Anyone have a step-by-step procedure that I can do at home, that doesn't throw off CO % or other settings as well? thx! al P.S. The stop screws are all the way out on the Throttle Body stops already, so they aren't setting idle.

Here's an interesting thread on Sport Touring.Net: Poll: Sport Touring Tires ..if you search around, there are other discussions on preference. As you can see, we are not the only ones with issues with various tires al

Dunno, haven't had mine apart yet, but was planning to inspect it when I had the rear wheel off to check the lubrication issue on the splines and cush-drive, and to strip the paint off of the edge. Why don't you post a step-by-step on what parts you focused on cleaning and lubricating? That might be very helpful al

Yep, a 020 out back, and a 010 out front. The profile is apparently the same, so that's not an issue. It seems to be a popular combination. al

.... of course, mixing tire manufacturers, or even models within a brand, can have some unanticipated and often undesireable effects. I suspect your description of feeling "shaky and uncomfortable" is related to the different profiles between the Michelin and Bridgestone. My 020s are fine so far, but when I do replace them I'll probably go for the 010/020 option many folks on the Sport Touring.net Forum have gone with. It seems to be a very popular combination for both performance and durability. al

...hrmmm, well I dunno. Certainly top-speed tales are often couched in embellishment, but 150-ish is very do-able. Let's assume the suggested ~7% error in an OEM speedometer. My high-speed run years ago across the Nevada desert indicated at 155mph would be about 145. I think that's close enough And the bike had more left, I just shut it down as it wasn't safe, and I was running out of road And of course, around that time we did that 160 mile run, in 80 minutes... so average speed was 120mph. Given that we had to go up a mountain for about 1/4 of the distance, who knows what the top speed was I don't think it takes any great skill to go that fast, just a capable bike, a long-enough road, and luck.... lots of luck. But I don't think I'll be doing any of that again.... just not very safe. al

Thanks Paul ...yes, but my other question was I curious about was if someone made a floating rear rotor That might help with our rear "groan" and warping issue?? al

The installation of any, Hot-Grips or Dual-Star, heated grips is very straight-forward, with the exception perhaps to some degree of the Dual-Stars only because the instructions regarding the final wattage and 3-wire hookup is vague. But there are plenty on online documented installation reviews, so it's not a big deal. Basically you have two primary vendors: Hot Grips Heated Grips Dual-Star Heated Grips Based on a recent "unscientific" survey on sport-touring.net, it seems that the Dual-Star solution is more popular by a significant margin. I attribute this to: 1) Price (DS ~$30USD, HG ~$70USD) 2) With the DS solution, you can utilize your favorite grip I originally bought the Hot-Grips solution using their new "Softer Grip" and it works very well. I used their previously available variable heat controller(which you see installed in the "dash" to the left in photo below). I thought this was a rheostat, but it's actually a PWM(Pulse Width Modulator) like the "Heat Troller" they,most vendors, now recommend if you want a variable heat controller. The unit I bought last year is no longer available. But again since most everyone has standardized on the "Heat Troller" brand, that's actually a good thing since one can reference and emulate other's installation instructions easily. The Hot-Grips works quite well, as I was reminded yesterday during my brief ride to the gas-station. I had inadvertently knocked the controller knob to "high" and within about 90 seconds, WOW... the grips sure were super-warm.. But one drawback in my opinion with the Hot-Grips is that since they use a dedicated grip with the elements internal to the grip, the outside diameter of the grip is noticeably larger than standard grips. Also, they quite a bit harder than most "gel" grips that I prefer. So, I'll probably be switching to the Dual-Star grips shortly. Regarding installation, as I mentioned, it's very straight-forward. I posted several links to some installation tips here: Heated Grip Thread Now, to get power to the grips, you have several options. If you just want to keep it simple and use their hi/low/off toggle switch, you could wire the grips directly to the battery. However I wanted to guarantee that by some accident I didn't run the battery down by leaving the grips on while leaving the bike parked for a while. So I simply used a relay and the final unused and available empty fuse holder in the fuse block. I tapped into the hot side of the signal lights feed for this power, and fused it there. You could also use this or other similar power to just power a relay and draw the power from the battery. There are many options. But the grips only draw about 3-5 amps, so it's not a big deal if you piggyback off of a lightly loaded circuit. al

Jaap, can we move this to Technical Topics? Regarding the FBF parts... I've heard good things about many of their products, and it is true that they did sponsor Ducati bikes and race successfully for years. And I heartily recommend them for ordering OEM Guzzi parts, and other accessories. They have great customer service. In regard to their various kits, keep in mind that to achieve a target, the solution should be considered and approached as a well-planned package(not that I've always done so ) Not suggesting you are doing so, but just throwing bits and pieces at the bike may not work well together. So I would talk to the Ferracci staff and let them know your goals, and they can perhaps put together a package that is affordable, street-reliable, and reaches your target. Victor from FBF is often on this Forum, so I'm sure he can respond. Regarding the valves, not sure. Their "large valves" are only .5mm larger each. The stock exhaust valve is 39.5mm, and their large valve is 40mm. Similarly the stock intake is 46.5mm, and the oversized valve is 47. This is not a huge difference, but more importantly it should be paired with intake tuning to get a real benefit. A comment on these by Mike Rich, who does the porting for the Cooked Goose Land Speed Record Team: ... so, Perhaps some more research is needed... They also do indeed have a drop-in piston that claims 11:1 compression. I am not doubting that they necessarily acheive a true 11:1 ratio, but I would still encourage some incredulity against the accuracy of that figure for two reasons: 1) The MG combustion chamber, often touted as ~10:1 is notoriously optimistic. Real figures often put somewhere around 9.5:1 So, and I'm assuming much here, if FBF has calculated their 11:1 figure based on the MG official compression ratio as a starting benchmark, they may be off by quite a bit. 2) The V11 combustion chamber is also notorious for having odd hot-spots, and detonation(pinging) under high compression and heat. Most tuners say a true 10.5:1 ratio for the street is really pushing the limit of reliability and streetability. That's not to say one couldn't run an 11:1 ratio in some bike without problem, but that is apparently running at the edge of what is recommended. So, from both perspectives, and from my assumed position since I've never seen the FBF pistons tested... I have some doubt that they are a true 11:1 Now that being said, that doesn't mean they aren't awesome pistons, nor produce great results. I'm just not familiar enough with them to know anything either way. Perhaps someone here has installed them. I think Rosso#248 has them installed, and was talking about his bike in his bike's introduction thread. You might ping him But before you take the plunge, why don't you also give Mike Rich a call. He is always more than happy to chat, and he may have an alternate perspective and suggestions. Mike Rich Motorsports 21 Jerusalem Hollow Road Manorville, New York 11949 (631) 874-7032 http://www.cookedgoose.org/ Below is the news blurb from FBF regarding the upgrades and bike you were mentioning. One other thing... beware of gross HP claims. It's interesting that with no major modifications FBF is reporting 86hp(rear-wheel?) for your bike, while Rosso#248 is reporting 86rwhp with many of the same mods *including* the FBF 11:1 pistons, and I have a reported ~85rwhp at the last check with no special internals other than ported/flowed heads. We all have aftermarket exhausts, and PCIII's. So.... And JohnT has had his engine completely rebuilt, lightened, new cam, rods, you name it.... only perhaps missing just the pistons(FBF's or Mike Rich's) ... and is only able to squeeze out 90hp at the rear wheel. Again, I'm not meaning to impugn anyone's HP figures, but keeping a skeptical and inquisitive mind about these figures might be a good thing. 95hp at the rear wheel on a streetable 2 valve bike seems a bit much. But who knows As I've said many times, if I can hit 90rwhp, I'll be happy. Although I'd take 95, and happily "eat crow" Good luck! al

...could be It's been suggested before. I actually just thought about that today while I was up under the bike installing the new crossover and looked at the rear brake-line as it traversed the swingarm Who knows though. I guess one could heat-shield the line, but I'm hoping the new Jet-Hot treatment I've got on the crossover and am going to get on the exhaust-can headers will reduce temps quite a bit in that area. I've checked my rear rotor several times, and although it's been warm a few times.... it's never been "hot" as if it were really dragging or getting hot enough to damage a bearing for example.... dunno though... I'm thinking a floating rear disc might relieve a lot of these issues to some degree though... al

I don't know that the LeMans bars(and 2002+ Nakes without tubular bars) are any worse per se... but they do vibrate a bit. And of course depending on one's sensitivity(I have mild carpal-tunnel, so I am susceptible in about 30 min on any bike) and one's style of riding(say, holding the throttle too tightly)... the mild vibration can get to ya From what I can tell, yes the 2002+ V11 Naked/Sport/LeMans has a different bar weight system than the previous years. The newer bikes have a long rod and end-cap assembly damped with rubber. It's quite heavy, and apparently works well. ...of course now I have the Throttlemeister "Heavy" (14oz.) units installed, so it's probably about as good as it'll get... short of adding the lead shot. BTW, what type(gauge?) of shot do you use, and where's the best place to get it? .... a sporting goods store? al

....partially all back together right after the "shake down" run Technically, still have a few issues like cleaning up the relocated fuel-pump, new PCIII map, etc... but most of the "user serviceable" things on my list before the engine case swap are done. Cosmetically, I still have to strip the rear wheel(while checking the splines and cush-drive for lubrication), and the current experimental powder-coated orange/red valve-covers are probably temporary until I get the new candy/metallic red coated ones back in a couple weeks. ...but it's coming together

OK, well as mentioned in the dual-plug thread, I took the bike out for a short "shake-down" spin tonight after finishing a few projects, one of which was getting the front end all back together after installing the new axle, bearings, fender, and most importantly new Ohlins forks Now first, just let me say that I personally liked the look of the black stock Marz forks better on the bike, but based on my very cursory spin around the block... I think I can grow to look past their gleaming gold tone Well, it's too early to know anything in depth in regard to correct damping, spring-rate, etc... but I can say unequivocably that these forks are much more compliant than the Marzocchis. One of the most noticeable differences was when transitioning the sharp curb one finds when riding into a driveway or parking lot. With the Marzocchis, that bump was always quite sharp and jarring. With the Ohlins, it's soaked right up Now, it may be true that the Marz weren't optimally setup, as I didn't spend a lot of time on them in that regard since I knew I was going to replace them. So it is perhaps true that they were overly harsh and/or could have been better than what I experienced if tuned. But from a quick 15 minute ride, the Ohlins.... also so far completely "unadjusted" .... feels worlds better ....and of course, as others have pointed out, now with the front end feeling so good, the rear is highlighted as feeling even more especially like keeeeeeeeeeeeeerrrrap I know what's next on the shopping list, but then again, it already was al

Scre, Thanks again for the info, but again.... since your dealer seems to be cooperating on this issue, is there any chance you might have, or could get, a Recall or Service Bulletin(or whatever MG calls them) number we can reference to alert our local dealers? I had spoken to the owner of my local dealer, but he said MGNA wasn't talking about any such recall, as MGNA hadn't finished with the various NHTSA red-tape It would be really helpful if we could: 1) Have that reference number/info to give to a dealer to give them a head-start 2) Compile a recall FAQ/list and the relevant official MG identification cited If you have any idea, thanks! al

I don't have the solution necessarily, but I have heard and personally experienced that leaving the bike parked in neutral tends to make the switch stick much more often. Instead if you leave the bike in gear while parked, the switch plunger is not depressed for a long period of time and it workes more reliably. I'm not sure if this will fix your issue, but it did clear up the "sticky neutral switch" on my bike. al

Russ, BTW, I'm curious, what was your "buckshot technique"? I assume you didn't just leave them loose in there?? I'll be installing my Dual-Stars and Gel grips this week. BTW, I just ordered my Dual-Star elements last week from casporttouring.com (California Sport Touring) and they had them to me in a few days. al

How do the full-floating disks differ from what comes stock on the V11? What's the advantage, other than they are noisier BTW, anyone have a source for a floating rear disk? That might help with our rear disk warp/groan problem. al P.S. You have closer and clearer shot of the calipers Paul?

Well, all I know is.... it started and ran It was getting dusk when I finally got the bike back together. ...got the wires installed, Jet-Hot'd exhaust all bolted up, fuel system plumbed... Just in time to take a whole 15 minute shake-down run down to the gas-station, as the fuel light was glowing So, with that brief run, all I can confirm is that it appears I didn't break anything (Knocking on wood ) I'll write more about the forks in the "hollow axle" thread, but it was too short a ride to tell much about the performance of the engine. I'll be pulling the plugs tomorrow morning to double-check their health, but the bike ran fine as far as I could tell from the brief trip down the block. But so far, I guess I'd call it a "success" But of course I have no way of knowing yet if it's added anything positive or otherwise impacted performance or efficiency. Hopefully I can find out more later when I get it mapped and dyno'd in a week or two. As I know more.... al

Glad to hear it's all coming together Carl I haven't had to break the disk bolts off of a wheel yet, but I do remember Rich Maund writing a while back what a bear they are... so I don't look forward to it. al

Well, I've finally got the new dual-tower coils all installed, hooked up, and the new wires cut and crimped as of tonight(Friday). After a quick test, it looks like they are all 4 firing just fine. So I guess I'll put my exhaust back together tomorrow morning, and hook the tank back up and see if it runs as expected. I don't see why it wouldn't, but you know how these things go I'll let cha know The real test will be a test-ride around the block, then a trip down to Hare Racing next week or so. al

Yeah, at those speeds, who really cares... plus, especially on our bikes, there's always someone "faster" I did my one time "high speed" runs some years back on Hwy50 in Nevada, the "Lonliest Highway in the World" : Nevada's Hwy 50 According to my FJ1200's also I'm sure very "optimistic" speedo, my friend and I hit 155mph. We even did a 160 mile run from one moutain pass, across the bottom of the valley to the horizon up the next moutain, in 80 minutes. You do the average speed math In all these cases, the bike was rock solid, and I think it had a bit more oomph to go. But especially in retrospect I realized how close I came to dying. If *anything* had happened, and we saw a lot of *anything* on that trip, deer, vultures, tumbleweed, you name it... One of those *anythings* was when we were cruising along at about 80mph outside of Area51, when a dust devil came along and literally blew my friend off the highway into the desert. Although he pulled it off(but almost dumped it), the VFR obviously wasn't designed for "off road" use Anyway, not being judgemental, and to each their own.... but I personally don't think I'll be doing any top-speed runs again any time soon. Been there, done that, and although nothing happened, hindsight tells me that I was very fortunate. So I'll count myself lucky, and not push that luck again. I've just seen too many motorcyclists in my area die over the last year or two, and it's sobering.... al

Thanks Ian I've forwarded this to Moto Italiano to give them more info. I haven't heard anything from them yet, although they supposedly had a call into MGNA I hate to have to keep following up on this stuff myself al

I'm not certain about the difference in the internals of the Ohlins R&T forks, versus "superbike" race forks, or as opposed to the stock Marz, but the Ohlins that myself, Paul, and Jaap have fitted are the MG OEM forks for the new Cafe' Sport. So I would assume that they are similarly durable as they are original equipment, and there isn't any special considerations that I am aware of. As far as I know, the Road&Track forks are designed as OEM replacements, and are comparable. ... and BTW, I've got them all installed, along with the Cafe' Sport Carbon fender. It all fit up just fine and looks quite good along with the polished front rim. al

Well my VIN is ZGUKRAKR72M114733 so I guess I am exempt from the transmission recall. Perhaps this is one of the rare cases where owning a 2002 is an advantage? al P.S. Honda just issued a recall for all 2002+ VFRs, due to the rear aluminum subframe cracking from vibration. So, it's not just us guys Even the much vaunted Honda reliability, such as the rectifiers on 98-99 VFRs frying, and the new Goldwing's frame, head, and heat problems... show that all makes can have their share of issues

Chatted with Moto Italiano(San Mateo, CA) and they said, yes, there are reports of said transmission recall in Europe, but MGNA is not fielding calls on the transmission recall for the USA yet as it has not yet been issued. So they didn't have any information beyond what we know. They didn't know anything of a connecting rod bolt recall issue... Also had them call MGNA on the delayed engine-case replacement that was reported from Moto International(isn't this confusing? ) ...but MGNA hasn't gotten back to them on that yet. al