al_roethlisberger

heh heh.... Elephants.... Monkeys.... Anyway, in regard to the Gel Grips, it's something of a misnomer in the case of the "Superbike" brand. They don't actually have the liquid "gel" incorporated, instead having a dual-compound sort of arrangement will gel-like rubber and hard-rubber, making for a very squishy yet durable grip. Very comfy These are the grips most people use with the Dual Star setup, and is recommended by Dual Star themselves. al

Here is the link to the thread with those bars: New German Bar Risers Thread ...btw, from the photos I've seen, and after looking at Mike's Two Brothers bars... they seemed very adjustable?? al

Well, IMHO the problem is in low-pressure supply line that runs too close to the left cylinder. Everything past the pump is less likely the problem I believe. A couple points: 1) Fuel in the supply line is under no(other than atmospheric) pressure, so boils/vaporizes easily. And in fact may be under reduced pressure when the pump first kicks-in creating some vaccuum effect, then in combination with the heat may combine for a quick vaporization. Although I've shielded the other hoses, filter, and pump as you have done, I think the primary culprit is this line. In the case of everything post-pump, it is pressurized and much less likely to vaporize at the temps experienced. 2) It is interesting to note that in your test the temperature of your supply line is not only unimproved, but actually worse. I would run this test again, but try to route the supply line as far as possible from the left cylinder. With my pump relocated, my supply line is now some 5 inches further away from the cylinder, as well as shielded. Also, out of curiosity... how are you getting this to vapor-lock in Winter? Where are you located? I ask because, although I have experienced vapor-lock, it's been very very rare... and although we've had some awfully hot days here this Summer, I haven't fallen victim to it since last year. So I wonder, if you are in a mild climate, and you are vapor-locking consistently.... something a bit more acute and significant must be going on with your bike?? Just curious... al

BTW, for those interested, here is some great info on the Dual Star elements, installation, and suggestions: Sport Touring Forum Dual-Star Installation Thread Dual-Star Wiring Alternatives Heat Troller Installation al

...yeah, I've got the Throttlemeister "heavy" bar-ends, so I think I've got it covered in that area al

...yeah, that sounds like a slightly different cause, but in the end similar results Kinked fuel-lines will do that The trick with "vapor-lock" thing is that if you can get it running after it sat and heat-soaked, it will probably run.... but that is the trick. I've never heard of the "vapor lock" happening one running, or if the bike is in motion = being cooled. al

Yeah, I've had some numbness issues with the current grips, although I don't know if that's more because of my mild carpal-tunnel sensitivity, the bike, and/or in combination with the grips... But I do remember that I like my gel "superbike" grips on the FJ quite a lot. So... OK, I'll give it a try... why not? I've ordered a set of the elements, but here's my question: I already have the adjustable heat control for my "HotGrips" which is just a rotary heavy-duty variable resistor. So I thought I'd just use it instead of the ~$50 "Heat Troller" that is often sold with the Dual Star setup. Looking at the wiring, it looks like this should work just fine?? The "Heat Troller" is apparently nothing more than a fancy modulator that depending on the setting cycles the current on-and-off to adjust the heat, versus my knob which again is just a resistor. ...oh, and the "Heat Troller" has an on/off function, where mine are always on(when the key is on) but turned all the way down doesn't draw any current. Anyway, these should work with my low-tech adjuster, correct? al

I've got the following HotGrips installed: HotGrips "Soft" Grips ...they've been good so far, and are quite well made. But I haven't decided yet if I like the slightly larger outside diameter, and even though "soft" they are harder than aftermarket squishy grips I like. I've thought about getting the elements Russ picked up and using them in combination with some Superbike Gel Grips.... ...but I need to look at how the ones Russ got hook up and if they will work with the adjustable heat controller I already have. al

...or you can just "soldier on" and the next time you get new tires, have 90-degree stems installed. Funny though, I don't have any trouble getting to my normal stems al

So.... a month later, how's the "long term" report on the Ti pushrods from Mike Rich? 1) Working out OK? No problems or gotchas? 2) Was it "worth it"? Any noticeable difference long term? Just checking as I'll be ordering my various bits from Mike in the coming weeks prior to my case swap in January(hey, time flies and it'll be here before I know it! ) ... and wanted to check on your experience with the rods first. thx! al

The later(2002+ ??) bikes all have the manual petcock, not electric. While the electric petcocks may introduce their own set of additional problems, my bike was more than happy to "vapor lock" with just the manual petcock installed al

I'll be 35 Friday the 14th Happy Birthday Dave

...aww crap, you're kidding me I was getting set to go in a couple hours..... good thing I checked here first Ah well, I was sick as a dog last night, and am not exactly "chipper" tonight, so maybe it's all for the best See ya there next month

I don't know who all is planning to go, but if I do go I know it won't be on a bike by this Tuesday I'm still waiting on a part or two to get the bike back together(although technically I could ride it without a fender ) ... but more importantly I've had some flu-like thing this whole weekend and late last week... so any plans I had of putting the bike back together this last weekend went out the window, and I don't think I plan to bottle my head up in a helmet right now I'm heading to the doctor tomorrow afternoon, and if I feel well by then I might truck it up to Alices just to meet everyone, but it's pretty much a certainty I won't be up there on my bike Hope to see some folks there if possible though! al

Hard to say for certain in my case, as I didn't know anything about it until Mike was already taking my heads apart for porting ...and of course Carl's case was extreme I suppose one might be able to tell something with some inspection during adjusting the valves, and of course the classic valve issue indicators of poor compression, oil, etc... would be symptoms. Perhaps some of our certified mechanics can offer something more objective and specific though? al

Is this really an issue, except in regard to warrantee work? AFAIK, the only thing that matters to the DMV is the frame/VIN, not engine block number. How many cars out there have replaced/crate motors, etc... that are sold without any disclosure as such on any official DMV paperwork? Unless there is one very picky state DMV out there that I am unaware of(and there may be), it seems to me that the only organization that would really care is MG in regard to tracking work on the engine. motofw, does your state DMV require tracking engine block numbers along with VIN for registration? al

Mike's not likely to hear ya He's got a computer for sure, but he's so very busy he doesn't have the time to check out this forum. Keep in mind that reworking Guzzi heads isn't his only set of customers, as he does work for lots of other people and their vehicles as well. So he'd have to keep an eye on many different forums, both automotive and motorcycle alike He's got an email, but even that takes him a couple days to get around to answering, although he is very thorough in responding. He's just more of a shop guy than a computer user.... which I'm sure many here can relate to In regard to his new pistons, he's apparently been developing them for quite some time, and are just now available. He's designed the pistons and squish-band such that the solutions dual-plugging provides would no longer be needed. He offers the pistons up to 11:1 compression if I recall, but his recommendations aren't to go beyond 10-10.5:1 for street applications. They are drop-in, and require no rebalancing, and can be lightened as well. I think the kit is either $300 or 400. Beyond that, you really should just give him a call. He's very happy to chat your ear off about what he has and what will work well for your application al

...nope single(normal) plugs only, I just installed the dual-output coils last week as a matter of fact Up to this point, the second plug has just been "plugged" but not operational. I should have the coils all hooked up, and the bike back together by late next week once my final parts show up. Then I can go off to Hare and get the PCIIIUSB mapped the following if all goes well. al P.S. BTW, Mike's new drop in pistons are supposed to negate the need for dual-plugging

I got the "Stage II" work done, and the new valves.... I think it was around $1400 when all said and done. I don't have John's cam, but I achieved 86rwhp with not so great valve-settings. I think after the valves were set, I peaked at 84rwhp, but it ran a lot more consistently. If I can get 90rwhp consistently, I'll be "done" and happy. Next is the cam and pistons. Unfortunately the hp figures we often quote aren't as objective as we might like, since we all live at different altitudes, ambient temperatures, and the dynos can vary themselves. But I think most stock V11 Sport/LeMans run at about 78rwhp, so 6 to 8 real rwhp of improvemet is pretty good IMHO Keep in mind that the hp figures Mike quotes are gross, not rwhp. So if he is quoting 5 to 6 hp per cylinder, reduce that by whatever percentage the driveline loses. It should be in the ballpark of what I've seen. But bottom line, Mike does top-notch work, and is more than happy to chat your ear off helping you decide what is best for you. He definitely doesn't try to up-sell you if you don't need the work for your application, and I appreciate it. Oh, and if you are sending work in, keep in mind that Winter is very busy for him, and his backlog can be a couple months So plan accordingly. al P.S. I have no idea regarding the '03 valves

Yeah I do like the PVM wheels, and EMA USA had a "sale" on them via eBay. I dropped them a note asking about availability: Not tooooo bad, but still pricey. They confirmed that they do have a cush drive BTW... al

BTW, based upon Carl's measurements of the new '04 Mille mirror's mounting studs, and my testing with a Futura mirror, neither the Mille nor Futura mirrors would be a direct bolt-on if one wanted turn-signal integrated mirrors Ah well, it was worth trying al

Oh, I'm just asking... just curious.... I don't plan to get a new front wheel necessarily Now if these were a whole lot lighter/better, I might.... but if not al

There are several March wheels on eBay right now, one "3 spoke" off of a Laverda that looks like the OEM wheels on our bikes, and several of the 5 spoke versions. Are the 5 spoke versions any lighter/better than the three spoke versions we have? Yellow March Wheel on eBay ...are these forged versus cast? al

...wow, those are pricey! That is in the vein of what I'm interested in, but I don't think the styling is quite right for the LeMans It's too bad that the Mille mirrors don't seem to fit based on Carl's measurements... ah well.... at least it saves me some $$ I've got a broken Futura mirror on the way just to do some testing, but I don't think it will work or look right either. al

Well, I just got my valve covers back from the powder coaters, and the color turned out quite nice. But as expected, they don't really match the side plates.... but then again the OEM red valve-covers and side-plates don't really match either Anyway, I was thinking I might one day coat/paint these side plates to match the valve covers more closely. My question is: How does one get the side plates off of the bike without essentially having the bike "break" in half, especially since the factory shop stand supports the bike at the nuts/bolts at the bottom of the pork-chop? Any special tips or experience on removing them? thx al