al_roethlisberger

Yep, only time will tell on the spring rate selected.... I told LE that I too was a sport-touring and not very aggressive kinda guy.... so who knows It's not a big deal though. I've only currently got $120 invested in their first go-round, so I can always have them tinkered with again if they are too stiff, etc. I only had the springs replaced, no valving changes... al

Wow, maybe I should go wreck my bike Good news Max Glad to hear that it sounds like all is working out not just fine, but maybe even for the better al

....dunno, but every one I've seen has the condition eventually(by ~5000 miles)

...hrmm, perhaps this should be a poll, but I always honk my horn when my relays fail. You? Sorry, I couldn't resist I have no idea about the longevity of the standard newish(taller Seimens) relays. I replaced mine the day after I bought the bike with Dan's Bosch units, and no problems yet(knock on wood). But as mentioned above, if there is a heavier duty version that Dan has discovered, I'll replace them all again as a good safeguard. So I'm just waiting to hear if indeed these new heavier duty relays will work al

Hi Jeff, I'm no ASE mechanic or machinist, so I can only recount what Mike Rich described to me... which BTW echos your description of side-loading and appropriate wear on the guide and stem in specific areas versus even wear around the stem. The photo above was not posted by me(it's John's valve), so I can't comment on the photo for sure... perhaps he can... but he may have taken the photo from an angle to accentuate the damage so that we could all see it clearly ...versus it repesenting concentric wear?? I dunno, but again maybe John can comment. Bottom line though, when this and similar topics have come up for discussion, I simply defer to suggesting one call Mike Rich. He's more than happy to chat about these things to help one understand his observations. I'm sure he can describe it better than I Feel free Mike Rich Motorsports 21 Jerusalem Hollow Road Manorville, New York 11949 (631) 874-7032 al

Tire pressure is both a personal preference, and determined as optimal by the tires, geometry, weight, and suspension of a given bike.... but one thing I have learned from the suspension classes I've attended, *never* use the "max pressure" recommendation on the sidewall as benchmark for optimal pressure. This pressure is determined by the manufacturer to set the upper limit for inflation and load, not performance. That being said, the general ranges of pressures noted above in the mid 30's is what I've typically seen for street bikes, and recommended for ours. Find the exact values that your tires work best for you. al

...wow Lex, 260lbs and 1.05 springs. I'm 200-210lbs depending on the weather , and that's the rate Lindemann put in my Ohlins when I took them in. I hope that's not too stiff BTW, I think someone at Ohlins/MG may have finally gotten a clue, as the springs Lindemann took out of the Ohlins were .95 which I suspect would have been just fine Ah well, I'll have my various parts in soon enough, so I can ride it around and see how it feels. al

...heh... no, that's not my bike, just one of the many original press-package photos for the 2002 LeMans that I keep archived when I need to reference something visually like the photo above I don't think you have to worry about any electrical link, regardless of type, being strong enough to tie you to the bike in an accident. At the very worst, the wire itself would break under that strain. Thanks for the additional info Mike. I went out and checked the bike, and sure-enough that raised center is a plastic cap... a very well camoflaged cap I must say So officially, the VFR-like solution is a no-go But I've got a solution right in front of the fuel-tank that will work fine, and with the PowerLet tankbag hookup solution below, it would work well and be very convenient: PowerLet Tankbag Hookup al

Obviously you seem to know a good deal more about these things(electronics, coils, etc ) than I do, so humor me if I yet find that a bit incredulous that a modern coil would be designed that such an easily reproduced... even accidental... misconfiguration could ruin the whole coil You may indeed be correct, but I still find it surprising, as I can see many cases such as an accident where the wire gets disconnected, or a plug is broken off, where it would not just be fail-safe to not ruin the coil in this mode, but would be very advantageous as limp-home mode to still run on at least one plug hrmm, maybe though... al

... I think it's safe to say that if you are over 180-ish lbs. *and* the front forks aren't performing as you would like(such as not being able to achieve the correct sag) ... then new correct spring rates for your weight are probably the first step in modifying the forks. Revalving can be done at the same time, and perhaps logistically it's the right decision to have it done at the same time... such as when one has to ship their forks off.... but revalving isn't necessarily required to achieve a satisfactory result from the stock forks. I've heard less complaints about the new 43mm Marz forks in the 2003+ bikes BTW. Of course, the very first step is to try to adjust the sag, rebound, and compression damping appropriately on the OEM setup. I suspect that for many people under 180lbs, a well setup Marz fork will do fine. It just depends... al

Thanks for the thoughts guys, but I'm still a bit confused... perhaps I should just get off of my lazy butt and take it apart myself then eh? Below is a photo of the stainless-steel "cover" I am talking about. Are you saying that under that cover is a hex-head bolt versus access to a hollow head-tube? If it's hollow on the underside as Carl points out, that provides a bit of hope that the head-tube is hollow all the way through like the VFR pictured above(as stock, it too has a plastic cover where the socket is pictured). Of course if there is a bolt on top of the V11 tube, then it won't work.... I just wanted to double-check before even attempting to take that cover off, if there's no need. A bolt under it would equate to "no need" hence making the VFR type solution impossible Anyone have a "trick" to get that SS cap off without tearing it up BTW? al

Excerpt from V11 Forum Dual-Plug Thread ... As always, YMMV ....but this was the experience with my bike. al P.S. I have the new coils mounted to their bracket, and should have them hooked up by the end of the week. I just have an email out to TLM asking if the coils can/should be operated with just one plug attached. I'm just curious....

..yeah, but not of "motorcycle stuff".... just "stuff" *grumble* Organizing all that "stuff" after the GF and kiddos moved in is the next "project".... driving me crazy it is... crazy I tell ya

Excellent, let us know... and if it works, I'll take two Heck, maybe one should just replace them all with the "tougher" model?? Why not? Even though my horns no longer load that circuit(other than to trip the new horn relay)... better safe than sorry al

Aftershocks is good, so it Lindemann Engineering..... The only issue is that you have to be very clear about your style of riding, as many of these shops have most of their experience in valving tuning toward the performance racing end of the spectrum... and for some people, that may not be quite what they were looking for. Another issue is that with the relative rarity of the V11 Sport range, many have little experience with the Marzocchi forks. Lindemann has done several at this point. I think Lex is quite satisfied with the resluts, where Mike Stewart wasn't so much Part of that may be luck, mixed with personal preference. You might ping them. I'd call both Lindemann and Aftershocks and see what they think about working on the Marz... al

Unfortunately ...other than a lucky eBay purchase, that's about as cheap as they come... around $200-ish. Someone posted a more rudimentary rack from "Motomecca" that was about $100USD I think. I don't know how well it has worked out long-term though. Discussed in the following thread: Stucci Rack Thread And if you are talking about a full luggage system like a Hepko bag setup, you are looking at around $800-900 Sorry if that wasn't the good news you hoped to hear Maybe someone has a used rear rack they want to unload... you might get something cheap that way. Put a WTB ad in the for-sale section perhaps? al

HID is indeed a pain, but is what I've been looking into as they draw significantly less power than our H4 Halogens, but produce a much brighter light... believe it or not. Actually, not all HID systems require a separate bulb for high/low functions. Several auto manufacturers, and some aftermarket kits like those that were sold by CATZ use a servo to move the bulb back and forth far enough to change the focus of the beam, along with a servo controlled shield that adjusts to cover the bulb appropriately for high or low beam applications. Unfortunately most of the "H4 replacement" kits have been pulled from the market due to DOT pressure. And the single H4 bulbs sold as "HID like" are of course just colored bulbs, and a joke. More info here: HID Retrofit Discussion on Sport-Touring.Net It seems that the correct solution for our single bulb OEM application, is to find a salvage automobile solution that has the high and low beam function in one housing, but I've yet to find one. The correct housing would almost certainly be a projector/reflector unit that one would just install inside our stock bucket.... as the OEM reflector is not designed for the focal point of an HID installation, and would produce undesireable results if one just jammed an HID bulb in there. I'm on the hunt, and thought I found a whole projector, bulb, ballast, and ignitor from a salvaged BMW on eBay for $49(a steal) but it was only low-beam al

.... yeah yeah.... well, it's actually quite a big garage, but it's full of crap right now But seriously, I usually sell off parts as fast as I acquire new ones. You want to talk about crowded garages with lots of spare parts... you should see Mike Stewart's with 4 bikes, and various bits, wheels, and body pieces lying about al

Thanks for the offers on the Bitubo's guys, but I think you missed my point.... they are JUNK But seriously, yeah... I'm not interested in replacing this thing with another one that's just going to fail later. BTW, Gthyni, thanks for the Ohlins tip... but I already have one of the Ohlins "universal" dampers I bought on eBay, and although they will work fine on a V11 Sport/Naked(if you can mount them with the tubes stacked "vertically like on the Cafe Sport, or on a Duc 748)... the Ohlins won't work on a LeMans in any configuration I can figure because of the fairing, the distance between the triple mount and the engine subframe, and the wind deflector around the forks The Bitubo unit works because it is a "single tube" design, and being so narrow, will work within the confines of the fairing, lower triple, and frame I guess I'll just have to keep an eye out for FBF's new one, or find out from Mike if the OEM Aprilia Ohlins he picked up used might fit. That unit saves a little space over aftermarket Ohlins dampers by having the bracket cast into the damper body, so it's a possibility it might just fit. But I'll have to wait and see what he says. Thanks again though. If I can't find anything for a while, I may just have to take one of you up on that offer in the interim *sigh* al

I am in the process of installing a Powerlet accessory connector, and already have a couple decent locations scoped out. However, I saw the following solution, and it got me thinking: VFR Powerlet Steering Head Installation ... but because I'm somewhat lazy ... I thought ask if we have a hollow steering head bolt(and what the dimension of the hole is) before I tried to pry off the stainless steel decorative cap from the triple-tree steering head bolt So, anyone know of our steering head bolt is indeed hollow, and if so what the inside diameter of the hole is?? thx! al P.S. And if so, BTW how do you get that darned SS cover off without tearing it or the triple up anyway?

The valves on my 2002 LeMans were measured by Mike Rich and were "extremely soft" and "very worn" after only a couple thousand miles of use. The guides were already getting sloppy.... At the rate of wear(check the "dual-plug" thread for more details) I would have had significant damage/wear by the time a few 10's of thousands of miles had piled up. Is this true for every V11 based bike? I dunno, but that's what was observed on my bike al

Well, I had heard from a few people over the years that their Bitubo dampers leaked, and were basically junk. I reserved judgement..... but now feel like can unequivocally concur While installing my forks, and some other tidbits, I noticed that the damper had leaked quite a bit. That isn't normal for a modern "shock" first of all. Second, when I took it off, I could grab the rod and push it back and forth and it felt and sounded like "gravel" inside the damper as the rod jerked and grabbed throughout the range. What a POS. Well, anyway... no surprise I guess... and aguably not a big deal as I know many people feel like a damper on the 2002+ Sport/LeMans is overkill. But hey, I like the security of knowing it's there So I shopped around eBay for a used Ohlins that I could retrofit, with no success.... and dropped Victor at FBF a note about the Ohlins on the Cafe' Sport, while buying a new fender. He said that coincidentally they too had looked into this, and said that because of the air-deflector around the forks, the aftermarket Ohlins will not fit the LeMans. And the reason an Ohlins fits the Cafe Sport is because it doesn't have a fairing. This is why the Rosso Corsa still has the Bitubo. So, anyway, FBF apparently has a new damper in development for the Ducatis in their "Whats New" section, and are working on one for the LeMans. So if your damper blew up too, and want another one... this may be an option. I know Mike Stewart picked up an OEM Ohlins from an Aprila Mille?? that looks like it might fit because the mount is physically cast into the tube, but I don't think he's tried it yet. Perhaps he can let us know if that works. But otherwise, my experience is that since the Ohlins is a "twin tube" design, it can't be mounted "flat" because it hits the front engine framework, and if mounted "on it's side" it hits the air deflector *sigh* Mike? ...does that OEM Aprilia Ohlins damper fit on your Rosso?? al

Nice indeed.... may have to check into those If someone else is already checking on availability for the USA, let us know.... and let us know what they say regarding final pricing, shipping, availability, etc... I give up waiting on the Cycle Cat risers, too bad too..... al

So for those using the Redline and similar...no leakage/seep problems with the switch to synthetic? Just checking as some people have cautioned against it in the past on that assumption al

.... agreed on Guzziology And get a TwinMax A bit pricey, but a good investment. Once you figure it out, a TB balance is no more painful than checking the air in your tires before a ride.... about a 10 minute procedure. al P.S. And I cannot more heartily concur with Mike in regards to checking and finding the correct valve settings for your bike. In my case, that CURED the problems I was wrestling with for months while the shop continued to dink around with unrelated issues