al_roethlisberger

I'm no fan of litigation ...but good for you

...photos please Especially from the side and rear with it stowed in the up position

For those installing pod filters, especially the smaller ones, check out these aftermarket "velocity tubes": Sport Cycle Pacific Velocity Tubes ...pretty pricey, and not 100% sure if they'd bolt on to the V11 throttle bodies, but looks interesting al

Well, it looks like someone won the eBay stand for about $200 Anyone we know? If so, get a whole set of pre, during, and post installation photos pleeeeeze so we can put it into the "How To" section for those interested in this center-stand al

I just remembered and found who I ordered my "hardcopy" V11 Service Manual from: Factory Service Manual $40 from Sport Cycle Pacific al

.... I guess I need to put that clamp in the FAQ section as well (...see past vapor lock threads ) First, after speaking to the guy that makes it, he's not 100% sure it will fit the new models .... although it should as I believe the pumps to be the same for all the FI Guzzis. But more importantly, "finned" heat-sinks are passive, so they go for entropy... that is, they will absorb or radiate heat as necessary to balance the temperatures of what fluid/solid they are in contact with. Good heat conductors like aluminum and copper are often used. Since our problem is with "heat soak" versus the pump overheating internally, all this fantastic heat-sink/conductor is going to do is heat the pump up faster as the ambient temperature outside the pump is the problem, and this clamp will conduct that heat and surround the pump with it ever more efficiently.... to the owner's dismay Now, if the pump were itself overheating, and the ambient temp outside the pump were cooler(like our cylinders), then yes this clamp might help radiate that heat away. The only potential benefit this clamp might have is to potentially cool the pump after the heat-soak cycle has reached it's maximum, and the engine/air starts to cool. If the pump cools at a slower rate, this might radiate the heat back out a little faster, improving recovery time. But I doubt this would happen, as I think most of the heat energy and problem is in the low-pressure side of the fuel system. So IMHO, heat shielding the supply line, and maybe the pump are better choices. That being said, I might buy one of these clamps just to have a cleaner mount for my relocated pump, but it'll be heat-shielded al

It'll be fine, it's only flammable when the solvents used to keep the paint/color in suspension are still present. And as has been pointed out, the engine itself, especially the alternator, doesn't get hot enough to ignite it anyway.. ...you were braver than I to paint something still ON the bike I always remove anything to be painted, as the overspray is pretty sneaky, no matter how well one masks. al

.... it seems no worse or better than my '89 FJ1200's light. Although I have upgraded the bulb in the LeMans.... to what I don't remember though al

Yep, that's it -8 A(rmy)N(avy) hose FBV0800 ...and yep, I only replaced the "big" supply hose(s)... plural in my case due to my mods al

....none yet. I'll let you know after January al P.S. However, for good or ill, I suspect people's results will vary dramatically based on dealer, and the quality of their shop's work.

Hrmm, that's too bad. ...not a "ringing endorsement" of the quality of the product I guess then Is this made by the same folks that make the G&B version? Sorry to hear that it busted.... al

Well I will say that the Europeans, especially the Germans, seem to "get all the cool stuff" for some reason Even if it's fugly, it's more ingenious than anything we've got natively stateside.... al

haha, yeah I know. Seriously though, I wanted to put it in mm, but I couldn't be precise enough in my measurements since I had to measure it on the bike I was worried that if I did try to convert it to mm/cm, the approximate dimensions might get thrown off by too large a margin Hope it helps al

....ewww Apologies , but although it's interesting engineering, that's awful IMHO al

Here's a question though.... The factory stand comes with a "spool" that is meant to go under the sump in combination with the stand. It's support platform is awfully small, and there's no application for it other than to put it under the center of the sump. So... Of course this is a bit different than lifting the whole bike via the sump, so I can only guess it's OK to lift via the sump and this spool as long as the other 2/3s of the weight is already on the shop stand?? al

....your Quat-D muffler cracked?! al

So, quick question.... anyone know the torque specs on the triple clamp bolts for mounting the forks? Also torque specs on the brake caliper mounts, and the cinch bolts on the bottom of the forks would be helpful thx al

Here is the drawing, but the measurements will have to be approximate. So please note that it is a general guide. However, if making it out of plastic, I suspect some trimming will be necessarly depending on the various tolerances on our bikes anyway I wanted to be more precise, provide the specifications in metric, and thought I had an old drawing/sample to go from, but had to try to measure the part while mounted on the bike instead so it's not as precise as I would have liked.... so again, please use this as a general guide, and fit to your bike as necessary. If you have issues viewing the detail, I have a larger .jpg and a Visio version I can provide.

Indeed, my blueing was before getting new valves from Mike Rich, so I was relieved in that regard

How much is the kit without the top case? Approximately?? Also, I noticed the MG logos on the side cases. Did you stick those on, or are they OEM MG bags sourced from HB? al

.... indeed, that is a great feature. As long as one is not quite sure how "optimistic" a given speedo is, then it's optimism may give you a bit of a buffer in regard to speeding. Well, unless you are just so far over that you're going to get arrested anyway, then all bets are off al

...gosh, I wish I could offer some sort of "technical" answer, but all I can do is offer my moral support I really didn't have any trouble getting my lamp assembly apart, and back together. In fact the only trouble I had was getting the damned thing back into the bucket housing Best wishes.... just keep working at it I guess, or maybe someone here has had a similar challenge and can offer a suggestion al

Agree 100% Lex... good post. I too walked around Road Rider, and Cycle Gear on Parkmoor with helmets on for 30 min or so... just "shopping"... before a final purchase. Everyone's head is different, so taking the time to find the right helmet is key. al

Well, the "factory" shop stand has a "spool" that is supposed to go under the sump when removing the front wheel. So the sump must be able to take at least a third of the weight I don't know what to recommend in lieu of the factory stand, but maybe a modified rear swingarm stand from your local MC shop might work? Then do what I do, put a block of wood under the sump, and use a decent hydraulic car lift to get the weight off of the front. Right now I have my bike up on the shop stand, and the auto hydraulic jack under the front of the sump with the aforementioned wood block. It seems rock solid. The stand isn't too expensive, and MG Cycle usually has them in stock. Give them a call if you're so inclined. It takes some getting used to, but once you have the knack, it's an awesome stand In the meantime, I don't feel comfortable recommending continued jacking of the bike via the crossover. That just seems like a poor choice and location to concentrate ~500lbs Maybe if you jacked it up under the crossover AND sump at the same time, but then I'd worry about stability... i.e. the bike might fall over. I know some people have used a quality strap/chain to lift the bike via garage rafters, and that's worked well for them as well. Just be careful, and make sure the bike is stable before you wrench on it. I'd hate to hear that such a new and excited owner got his hand crushed or something similarly tragic when the bike fell off of some "engineered" lift.... Good luck al

Exactly John Go to any forum on any product, and you'll find the predominance of posts are in regard to observed issues, versus accolades. I suspect if a product were 100% perfect, the associated forum would be fairly vacant and quiet ...do a search and you'll find that we've had this discussion more than a couple times People tend to post about the unusual things that get them stirred up, and often that is not.... "hey, I went out today and my bike started right up, and I had a great trouble free ride all afternoon!" But then again, while sometimes disconcerting, I'm much happier to be forewarned and forearmed The list is actually pretty short though, these bikes really aren't that bad. As someone here mentioned recently, just go check the Honda Goldwing, 1800, or even VFR list. Even the much vaunted "perfect appliance" Honda products are having their share of issues I don't know what I'd do if this forum didn't exist. I'd still be scratching my head over any number of issues. So keep the bad news coming! al