al_roethlisberger

I'm with Carl on this point. It sounds like the writer of the article is well-informed, but from my conversations with Mike Rich, his approach isn't as simplified as maximizing CFM flow. I got the distinct impression that he considered several other factors, including many of the points the writer makes to produce the desired end-result. I was going to scan my results from Mike, but I just found them and they look so similar to Carl's that there's no point. I also found the results of Mike's work on my heads regaring flow, etc and quoted it below. Bottom line though, as Carl mentions, I trust Mike's experience providing the LSR bikes and others, successful equipment I'm very interested in his new pistons al P.S. Also, on a related note, I sent Mike Rich a question about the FBF "large valve" kit, and here was his response. This goes toward the argument that Mike seems quite aware that "big is not always better" and depending on one's goals(street vs. track, etc) *tuning* to that goal is more important than purely increasing flow. P.P.S. Here is what Mike delivered with my head-work:

...back on topic though, it sounds like this is the "review" I was waiting for regarding the Ohlins and Penske Thanks Mike al

But isn't the "J" in the Netherlands pronounced like a scratchy "Y" ? Such that in the USA, we'd phonetically spell Jaap as "Yaap"? I was asking a Belgian friend of mine the other day about the pronunciation al

..if you are satisfied with your performance, measure your valve clearances as they are now, and note them. Then you can go back to them if you ever have to adjust the valves. Every bike is different, especially after a lot of miles al

.... nah, you're just wrong And hey, maybe some of do take our bikes off-road? Just kidding I'm attending "Doc Wongs Suspension Clinic Part2" this Friday, so might have some more to add later on the subject. http://www.docwong.com Great guy. He sponsors classes, rides, etc... all for free al P.S. ...and no jokes about the name

What with all my other stuff going on... I think I'll leave this particular experiment to someone else ...then decide. For now, I'll stick with my ND Iridiums al

The whole headlight assembly comes apart pretty easily once you remove the bottom screw, and pull the reflector from the bucket. It just takes a firm, but careful pull. Just lift up from the bottom, as there is a tab that the reflector seats into at the top of the bucket housing. Once out, here is one warning: Wear gloves, or clean the outside of the silver plated reflector with glass cleaner before lighting the lamp again! Ask me how I know If you do not, the next time you take the reflector out, you'll see all the nice neat fingerprints all over the outside of the reflector where the oil from your hand has burnned the "silver" and evaporated it away... leaving clear plastic I don't think this has any real effect on the lamp, as the the inside of the reflector is coated as well, but I would guess it helps keep the temps down inside the bucket. Anyway, just something to be aware of. To get into the lamp itself, you simply have to gently pry the trim ring up around the back edge and it will snap off.... and snap right back one when done. No big deal. Also, again, be really careful not to touch the reflector. If you leave a finger print, it doesn't seem to harm this side of the reflector, but the coating is extremely soft. If you try to wipe it off even with the softest of clothes, it will just scratch the reflector and leave a "dull spot".... If you do get a print on the inside reflector, I'd recommend just leaving it. It's not very noticeable once the lamp is back together. If you have the lamp apart, I'd also take the opportunity to clean the inside of the glass lens. Mine got kinda dingy and foggy after a while, and a good cleaning made a big difference. Bottom line though, I'm not impressed with the lamp. It seems cheaply made, and worse not easily serviceable. Surprise surprise al

If the tips of your Scura exhausts look like the photo below, you have the OEM LaFranconi mufflers. In many cases, the CF cans as delivered from the factory were simply LF exhausts with CF skins instead of the silver or black anodized aluminum skins that came on the Sports/LeMans... ...if not, you have "something else"

...ah, that's not too low I forgot about the rise the Sport's clip-ons, so I was thinking your bars as you described were going to be down where the clamps are in your photo Looks good

...yep, however.... although super-low clip-ons may be great for straight-line and high-speed low-drag applications like Bonneville... I'm not so sure one would want clip-ons too low for the street or road-race type applications?? I would suspect that at some point, there are diminishing returns, if not a disadvantage in handling once the point of leverage is moved so far down the forks and one's arms straighten. On the road, that could be scary and reduce the amount of damping one's arms provide for the steering. On the steeper raked Sports, I would think this could be a scary thing? I've never tried clip-ons that low, but that's what I suspect would happen... just imagining. al

Yep, same here Check for the rubber boot between the TB and the plastic "velocity tube/intake runner" that goes into the airbox. I bet you popped the boot off the TB. Now, that's a symptom.... soo.... If you have this intake cough/back-fire more regularly than not, you might want to check your map(ECU/PCIII). al

BTW, an "inch" of preload adjustment is a rather large adjustment. Often we are talking 10-15mm and that's sufficient for many applications. If one has to adjust a spring by an inch, a couple things to consider... 1) If that gross adjustment is legitimate and justified, then it sounds like a new spring with the correct rate for one's weight may be in order 2) It may be possible that with the bike unloaded, this extreme adjustment may possibly indeed have unexpected results... but I don't think it would raise the rear, especially once you were on the bike since the spring will be very unloaded at that point and should take-up a lot of sag once you get on. Maybe the previous owner had the preload way too high? If so, then maybe the inch you took out isn't such a big deal But I'm concerned with that much being necessary. As I mentioned above, you may want to check with someone familiar with suspension, especially MG suspension. Because having the suspension potentially mis-adjusted at such an extreme can introduce some dangerous handling misbehavior. Your post about lowering the clip-ons even lower increases my concern here, as it sounds like your riding position is becoming more severe and aggressive, and that combined with the steep steering angle of the early Sports, and my suspicion that the suspension(especially the arguably rudimentary rear suspension) is poorly setup... could wind up presenting a bad surprise in a corner one day, or even on uneven pavement. You really don't want a bad head-shake or worse a suspension induced tank-slapper. Apologies if I sound too apocalyptic ... but based on your question, I just want to make sure we don't lose another Forum participant over a simple lack of knowledge. I mean heck, we have a hard enough time finding more people to post ...just kidding Just do a "google" for "Motorcycle Suspension Basics", or something similar, and I'm sure you'll find some great info. Also, your local MC shop or Amazon probably has some good books on the subject. Good luck with it! al

Hi Cap'n, yep already replied to your post on Wildguzzi If you are reducing preload, by "letting out" the spring... and the weight of the bike is not changed... the rear will drop. This is why some Sport-Touring bikes have a remote preload adjuster to increase preload(crank down on the spring) for heavier loads like 2-up riding or luggage. Hope that helps. al

...nice Let us know if you hear anything else. al

Interesting.... but not surprising al

Yep, there are several folks on the board that have them installed. Just do a search for "titanium" and I bet you find a bunch But I have no idea on the cross-over versus non-cross-over version. But a guess... maybe they have a version of the map for the ECU made to work with the 2003 verus pre-2002 with/without the front cross-over pipe?? Because keep in mind that they also provide a remapped ECU with this kit. CDI? Capacitive Discharge Ignition.... usually. Why? Do they mention this in the specs or ordering? AFAIK, we don't have a CDI system, ours is inductive. al

hrmmm, yeah that looks like a Sport1100 cross-over, so I'll be interested to see the stand up, installed, etc on a V11 Sport/LeMans

I had the red/gray Specialized Speed Zone Pro for a while, and not only is it back-lit, but the "cutout" on the sides lined up just perfectly with the front brake reservoir , and one could easily rig up a mount using the master cylinder mirror hole that is unused and plugged on the LeMans. Specialized Speed Pro Computer The thing is awesome. It's wireless, temp, speed, altimeter, etc.... They also have some slightly cheaper ones that have most of these features. I really like the wireless aspect, although I never did get it mounted before I decided to sell it, so I never did find a good place for the transmitter. But it looked very do-able I only sold it because I didn't find the digital readout went well with the "analog look" of the LeMans, and I got my Formotion clock and thermometer, so I was set al

....oh sure I understand, "been there, done that" But on the other hand, I've actually gotten surprisingly used to just having a side stand.... a lot more used to it than I thought I ever would as not having a center-stand was one of the few items working against the LeMans when I was looking at it new. Of course as you can see, I apparently "got past" that little drawback So anyway, would still love to see more photos from various angles, especially with the stand folded.... to get a better idea. al

Yep, here's an update... Moto Italiano called me yesterday to schedule my case replacement. They are scheduling for the "Winter" and apparently MGNA is trying to pace them at about 2 per month to spread out labor expenses for the shops, as apparently the shops have to provide all the time and parts expense "up front" then MGNA will reimburse them..... at least that's what I was told. So, to start the process, they need from me: - Engine Number - Approx % of engine surface affected. Apparently there is a "4 square inch" minimum total damage required. - Warranty Expiration Date - Mileage - 3 Digital Photos - Entire engine - Closeup of damage/affected area - Engine Number Then they send that off to MGNA and the process gets going.... I've asked for January. al

It also looks like it wouldn't work with an "X" type crossover like the Stucchi. It looks in the photo like it fits neatly behind the OEM crossover, and I suspect would work with an "H" type Anyone know? I've actualy gotten pretty used to my shop stand now, so this is less of an issue. Although I guess a center-stand might be nice on the road in some circumstances. Would love to see some more photos from different angles though, especially in the "up" position, and maybe a better photo from underneath showing it's mounting. Thanks for the info al

My headlight is *definitely* not affected by the side-stand being up or down. So maybe later bikes are wired differently? I don't have time to go check right now, but someone with a later bike might want to go out and see if the wires and their arrangement described by Dan are in fact different on the first gen bikes versus later years al

...awesome deal. From what I can tell from the photos, it looks like very minor damage. I wonder why it was totalled? Is the frame bent? So, if you are ditching the front fairing, mirrors, headlights, etc... can I have or buy it on the cheap? al

I'll take your word for it that they are 43mm inner slider .... I guess unsurprisingly all the spec sheets online for the Scura were just cut/pasted from the standard Sport/LeMans data sheet, other than simply mentioning "Ohlins" al

I believe ya on the Rosso being 43mm, as I thought it was as well But as you point out, it also has the old-style "screw-in" axle. So apparently the Rosso Corsa has forks sort of "in-between" the development from the ones on the Scura, and the ones we have from the Cafe Sport. But all the specs from the Scura seem to indicate a 40mm fork??? Scura Specs al