al_roethlisberger

...well, if you really like the solution, I can give you the spare parts(hoses). I've got them in a box and won't ever be using them. It's just two heater hoses and a couple clamps if I recall(I used the filters already of course ) But really, all you need is a couple lengths of angled heater hose the same diameter as the snorkels, and the K&N filters I reference above. That's it... two hoses, and two filters. It wasn't much of a "kit" really ...so you could tinker it out in your garage yourself one weekend on the cheap... well other than the pricey K&N filters of course I bet you could even rig up a true mounting solution that the original kit never had for the extended runners/hoses and filters so they don't just lie inside and upon the fairing al

Yeah, my two filters and various hose-parts came from Ken's "last kit" he had on the shelf... and was incomplete. He decided to quit selling it because as he mentioned, it fit each bike differently and inconsistently. I tried to buy one from him for the longest time, but because of all the trouble fitting it to the bike, he refused to sell one "remotely" unless I could come in and he could fit it. Eventually this became too labor intensive for his business to support though... And in fact when I tried to make the remnants of said kit fit my bike, I just don't know how they routed the hoses effectively and got the forks and steering damper to clear the filters... I couldn't. Further, the hoses and filters just "sit" up in the fairing, with no support, and I didn't like that at all. I'm sure one could rig up some sort of support, but... And I don't know about those HP claims.... caveat emptor I like and trust Ken, but keep in mind that even with the additional volume the heater hose extensions provide, and increased surface area of the two filters.... the air still has to go through the restrictive OEM runners and airbox lid... who knows though In the end, it looks... IMHO anyway... like a fairly raw solution just adding more "stuff" to an already crowded area. I think Ken would have eventually had a cleaner kit if the 2002 and 2003 bikes had been more consistent. For him, the hardest thing to work with was the "musical chairs" locations of the fuel-pump. He designed the original kit on a Tenni, so the pump was "out front" instead of under the tank. When he got hold of other 2002s with the under-tank pump, it threw the whole kit out of whack ...and he finally just gave up, which is really too bad since from 2003 onward, there's no fuel-pump issue at all I have the only known photo of his kit installed somewhere on my PC in the boxes in the garage . If I get it unpacked soon, and remember, I'll post the pic so everyone know's what we are talking about. I'm very happy with my "stealth" pods, and air-box just goooone al

I'll be curious to see the outcome of this. I too have a slightly warped rear rotor, and my dealer *had* been getting a new disc for me. But apparently Aprilia audited the "warped" rear rotors they had gotten back for warantee, and apparently only a small percentage(especially front rotors) ...something like 3 out of 100, were actually run out of spec. That said, Aprilia is apparently requiring you to actually bring the bike in to be inspected, and the dealer has to measure run-out of the disc before MG will warantee replace it. Mine groans in reverse, and even forwards a bit too It's not scorching hot after a ride, but the disc is warm.... warmer then the fronts. I wonder if just replacing it with a better disc like the "wave" discs would be a better long-term fix. al

Dunno about the coils->ozone but there is a lot of heat in that area, and the bend probably gets some torsional movement/stresses as the engine revs, etc... so... Maybe it's just a function of it's location... BTW, this is a great solution. But here's a comment... can one find some sort of "clip" clamp like is often used on fuel injection lines that is less obtrusive than the spiral hose clamps in the photo above? I would assume so, but I've not found any easily. I just hate using spiral clamps for something that rarely if ever gets taken off(like the joints in this kit) and the darned things end up cutting you(or hoses/wires) with their damned razor-sharp tongues sticking out after tightening So I'd like to minimize the number I have employed under the tank... and I already have quite a few I'll have to check my "Summit Racing" catalog and local BMW dealership for such an animal methinks al

Hrmm, that's what I thought I noticed in the photo as well... I like the looks of the rack, especially since it's actually above the bodywork as opposed to sticking out from the rear like the Stucchi.... but those rear "legs" supporting this rack would be a concern to me I've already found that the paint Guzzi used on these bikes(or at least the clear-coat) is very very soft.... and I'd worry that those legs, especially under load, and with the bike's vibrations... would damage the finish?? You'll have to let us know how it works out al

Indeed, I had always heard the same admonishment as well, but I've seen several bikes, usually in Europe, with these small cone-shaped K&Ns fixed... and haven't heard of any major problems. Perhaps this "it requires runners" advice is a bit of "urban legendry" ?? I have no idea. But, interestingly, the K&Ns I used in the photo below, and that I've seen on many V11 Sports... includes this runner by it's design, and they are ribbed inside to grip our TB opening... and angled such that you can tuck the filters up inside and against the frame. I think these are made specifically for this application, or at least practically... they work as if they are. And it's a very large filter, with lots of surface area It could probably only be "better" if the end-cap was also filter material As it is, only the the cylinder itself is filter, and the end-cap is solid rubber. However, I doubt that makes much difference. I would guesstimate that each K&N is roughly the same surface-area as the individual OEM flat filter, or darned close. They are that large. The part number is: RU 1780 Here is my previous post summarizing this info: ....BTW, when it was all said-and-done, I still have no idea if installing the pods versus just using an "airbox lid eliminator" kit offers more or what kind(Torque vs HP) gains. At some point it would be a great test for someone to take a bike and put both solutions on(only takes a few minutes to swap out and test) and put it on a dyno and see the results. I think that would be very enlightening. Personally though, even though I still have the side-covers, removing the airbox and freeing up all that room under the tank and around the frame was a real advantage. At the very least it was much easier to groom the cables/hoses, and work in that space without the box... and I'm convinced it has to have helped thermally... letting air circulate better with it gone. Even with my side-covers still in place(the removal of which is a big plus for pods in many people's opinion), it still looks a lot more open and "clean" in that area IMHO So even if one day keeping the air-box with a lid-eliminator is shown to produce more power, I'm very happy with my hack-job Maybe someone with a dyno and some free time can try this experiment one day? I'd think it would be to FBF's advantage to take a bike and do so since they sell a kit. Again, it would be a simple afternoon task. al

Here are some from Harpers Moto Guzzi: Harpers Moto Guzzi Accessories Not an excellent photo, but they best I found quickly. These are what I have on my bike. They are admittedly a bit "squarish" for the styling of the V11, but I like them because they indeed are very chunky, and "architecturally" interesting. YMMV of course I believe this style was often found on the Sport1100. One caveat of Harper's version is that the holes for the bolt-heads are not counter-sunk. Again, I don't mind as I like the heavy "machine" look of exposed fastener heads, and the rest of the bolts on the valve cover are exposed too... but if this bothers you, just be aware. Harpers supplies the requisitely longer bolts with the guards. I have seen a version of these with recessed holes though(probably the MG Sport1100 version), and in fact a set are gathering dust at Moto Italiano in San Mateo to this day I believe al

Here are some from MG Cycle, for the 4-valve engines: 4-Valve Guards at MG Cycle

I've heard of this before. I wonder if the constant vibration/movement of the crossover stresses the headers where they are mated to the cylinders? ...well at this point, it sounds to me that after all of these complaints, that this front cross-over is going to have to be an official warantee issue for Guzzi. All I can guess is that once enough people bring them in to their dealers for service, Guzzi will see the trend in warantee work, and only then do something officially for all those affected.... much like our 2002 paint issues. It's too bad really ... but just make sure that when you have this problem, report it to your dealer so that Guzzi can see the claims in large enough numbers to start a recall/bulletin program sooner than later. al

Well, just off the phone with Mike Rich... Says that yes Carillo makes a "gun bored" model of conn rods, for about $50 more a piece, but they don't really spray the underside of piston crown per-se. They actually send oil up to the wrist pin bearing of the piston, and essentially as an aside sling oil out the bearing up top, and yes some will get on the underside of the piston. But it's not enough to get excited about. Further, all the new Guzzis he's seen do not have the crank bearing drilled to feed oil to these rods anyway, so if one wanted to use these rods and their additional oiling, one would have to get the bearing drilled. This is not a big deal, but just something else to have to do. And, he said that he's seen some issues with these rods as opposed to "standard" Carillos, at least on race motors. But on a street bike, they'd probably be fine. Bottom line, he didn't see any real advantage in spending the extra $$ on the gun bored rods. One might see a little more wrist pin life, but probably nothing significant, especially by the time one had enough high-mileage on a bike to matter... you'd rebuild it anyway. al

John, Thanks for the detailed response. Yep, Mike Rich and I actually talked about your bike specifically as a point of reference I think I am somewhere in between your 1 & 2 options... of course , probably leaning more toward option 1, although as of late I haven't had any real opportunities for long leisurely rides So I'll just "think on it" and see how the finances turn out in a few months. Dinero make be the final arbiter... I'm actually quite interested in the "gun bored" Carillo Rods that Carl mentioned, as being a tad heavier than the standard Carillos, but having the oil-jet for cooling the pistons. This might be a good compromise, and good for engine longevity. I don't know anything about these, but have an email off to Mike Rich asking about them. So as an aside, your comment on the light single plate clutch that was in the Rosso Mandello, Tenni, and Scura being more durable is interesting... Mike was actually mentioning that he's been hearing about a lot of failures for this clutch, as it is apparently tearing up splines, etc... He said he's guessing it's going to be another warantee nightmare for Guzzi like the engine paint, and that the "plain" dual disc setup on the rest of the V11s is turning out to be more durable I have no idea. Has anyone else heard this?? al

...true, but then again, it will already be apart for the engine case swap In this case, I'm actually trying to reduce the amount of "down time" by doing everything at once. But understood al

Understood, and good point... Mike's do look nice, although I think it looks a bit kludge'y.... from what I can tell from the photos anyway. They seem to rely on an "adapter" that clamps into the stock clamp then allows one to mount the stock bars in his clamp.... as opposed to replacing the original mount which I think would be a cleaner and safer solution. But from what I can tell the Cycle Cat's look like they are the most adjustable and technically superior of the bunch, especially in regard to their specially designed cam bar that allows for adjusment of bar angle as well as damps vibration.... at least that's the marketing Not to disparage Mike's solution, as I'm guessing about the solution to some degree, but I wish Mike had some closeup side and angle shots of the kit so we could tell a bit more about the design. I've requested such photos, but never did see any. Bottom line, just providing an update for anyone that was waiting for the Cycle Cat solution al

Update on the Cycle Cat Risers

Here's a question in regards to real world rideability... I was just speaking with Mike Rich, and was discussing some potential engine modifications for this Winter since my engine will be apart anyway due to the paint bubbling warantee work on my 2002 V11 LeMans. One of the items we discussed were the oft popular Carillo rods. Already understanding the benefits, which really are only quicker acceleration, I was more curious what some pitfalls might be... if any. He suggested that on my bike, since I have the "normal" V11 dual-disc clutch, any negative impact would be minimal. But he did say that on some bikes were they had the special single-disc clutch, or otherwise really lightened reciprocating/rotating engine mass, real world driveability could be impacted for some people. He said that if one prefers a smoother idle, and wants to avoid more extreme on-off throttle and engine-braking transitions... in other words a smoother and milder bike versus a bucking racey bike... then perhaps sticking with the very good, indestructable, but about 300 grams heavier OEM connecting rods. *whew*... so here's my question. For those that have the "old" Sport 1100s that have the same engine as my LeMans but with Carillo rods from the factory, and for those that have V11 Sport/LeMans that have modified their engines with these rods.... what has been your practical and real-world experience? Are the benefits really that noticeable, as compared to other modifications(bang for buck question), and perhaps even more importantly, were there any regrets or observations that the rods introduced some less desireable effect. In the end I can probably afford the rods, but it is a $500 expenditure, and nothing is more disappointing than to spend that kind of money and not only not realize a "gain", but realize that the result is actually less desireable than what you had to begin with. ...and I definitely would trade a smooth-running bike over a bike that accelerates just a bit better, but idles rough and has a higher propensity to pop-stall. For those that ride Sport 1100s and V11 Sports, this question is espeicially valid for you, as you have first-hand experience with essentially identical engines, sans the different rod weights. Thanks in advance for any opinions! al

Yep, and here's their answer: So it looks like ema-usa or a Dan Kyle is now my best bet at the aforementioned ~$780 Ah well, it was worth checking into Thanks Paul. al

ah hem ... well, just in case anyone forgot ....once again, let them know that I'd be interested in a timing adjustment feature on the PCIIIusb Thanks Todd... al P.S. And just in case you come up with a way to reliably tweak the timing outside of the PCIII/ECU, please let me know. I don't think I require this for my dual-plug setup, but it would be good to know since it would probably optimize the modification as right now I'm stuck with just plugging them in and hoping for the best with the stock ignition curve.

The shock is under Ducati, 46HCRS. They don't have the V11 Sport listed, as I've found many shops do not. In regards to the spring, I've written them asking about the correct spring rate, and if I could order the shock with the correct spring. But I've not yet heard back. If I hear anything, I'll let you know. al

question: ....are you saying then that it would be trivial for Dynojet to make an ignition module for the PCIIIusb, but just haven't done so? I wasn't sure what you meant. It's interesting that you note little performance differences in ignition fiddling though. But for non standard bikes with "special" applications like my dual-plugging, it would still be beneficial to be able to tune it I bet. Well, let us know your results and can't wait to hear about your experiment. thx al

Hey, 46HRCS at http://www.cyclemall.net/ is $650 al

yes, nice wheels those PVMs... but MY GOD... they are $2200! I like the OZ wheels on the MGS01 too. I wonder how much those are and if they'd fit our bikes al

Yep, I ran across them and their pricing seems pretty good Although they don't seem to list the correct part for the V11 Sport. They have "V11" but they reference the 46PR... model, which has the piggyback reservoir. I also had looked up the model for the Sport/LeMans in the past and it was the 46HRCS. So I've dropped them an email for clarification. Thanks! al P.S. And I think I *finally* have the forks on the way. I just scrounged Paolo's bank's SWIFT BIC off the Internet since neither his nor my bank seemed to be able to provide it ...so the wire finally went through. I should have the forks in a week or two supposedly. Now I'll just have to get the axle parts, and find time to put it all together.

What with the front forks on the way... well maybe ... anyway, was thinking about going ahead and getting the rear shock at the same time. I like the Penske, and have heard good things about them, but since I'll have an Ohlins out front, I thought it just made sense to keep them a matched pair(kinda like tires ) .... plus the Ohlins has that nifty remote preload adjuster So, does anyone have any recommendations on who has the best pricing for Ohlins shocks here in the USA? I don't mind ordering from overseas, but it sometimes is a bit more complicated, so I'd like to avoid that unless the deal is just too good I saw some posts we made last year about some good dealers, but given that time has passed, I thought I'd pose this question again. Thanks in advance al

...right, I think that is a safe assumption based on what they are calling the function. An "accelerator pump" is harkening back to the days of carburetors. Many modern carbs had an accelerator pump that when one quickly opened the throttle, the pump would inject a bit more fuel into the mix to get things going quickly since by design carbs are reactive, not proactive. They weren't necessary, but were an enhancement for performance, otherwise it may take just a moment... kind of like turbo-lag, for some engines to generate enough vacuum to start really pulling more fuel/air in through the carb. In this case, I suspect you are correct in that it is just another FI paramter that PowerCommander has added to the map where one can tune a spike in the fuel map if desired during quick throttle transitions. I'm just curious how effective it really is in real world riding and tuning. I'm hoping that Todd has had some experience with this feature, and can offer his thoughts before any of us start to tinker with it. al