al_roethlisberger

Hi John, Our bikes are "open loop" EFI systems, that is, there is no feedback to the ECU from the exhaust system on gas content. The ECU makes some assumptions based on the input half of the equation, air-temp, pressure, engine-temp, etc... but the final product, the exhaust, is ignored. This makes for a slightly simpler, but unfortunately less flexible system. So, in that respect, our EFI systems aren't that different from a carb'd bike. That is, if you make enough changes(and "enough" can vary from bike to bike) the static map in the ECU cannot take into account these changes as it assumes its map is still relevant to the equipment, and consequently air/fuel characteristics, as what the factory installed. Therefore, just as on a carb'd bike one might have to change jets, we often have to modify the fuel map of the ECU once "enough" has changed. Generally speaking, if one simply installs a set of exhausts, or a cross-over, or a freer-flowing air-filter, there is no need to modify anything as the stock map was generalized enough to still operate within a safe zone. But add too many things that change the intake and exhaust characteristics, and the bike can certainly run lean or rich...or just not well at all. And even with the most minor of modifications, to get the most from them, it's still a good idea to get the fuel mappings tuned. So, will the addition of your K&N in combination with aftermarket exhausts make the bike run lean? Probably. Will it be dangerously or otherwise less efficiently lean?? ...probably not, but you should keep an eye out for overheating just in case. Each of our bikes seems to have thier own quirks, and if for some reason someone, such as your shop, has already modified the map at some point... and it's borderline lean now, adding one more "straw" might just break the back. So just keep an eye on things. All in all, I think you'll be fine though. Don't expect tremendous "free" HP, but you might find it having a more soulfull intake sound, and maybe a the torque curve may move around a bit in a positive way. I put a K&N on my LeMans when I still had an air-box, and didn't notice any real difference. Maybe the dyno could have told a different tale, but I couldn't. I liked having it in there anyway though... for no logical reason al

Post some photos of it installed That way others can see if they like the results of the kit as well ....also you might submit it to Ken at Evoluzione so they can have a photo online of the kit installed. It's a bit hard to tell what it will look like from the current photo of the disassembled kit on their website. al

..yep, it's only about a $20 savings NOT to get the interior coated, so there's really no point And they point out that if one doesn't get the interior coated, depending on the material of one's headers, the now increased heat inside the pipe not shielded will actually eat up unprotected steel even more quickly. So they recommend, and by default do, coat the inside and out. al

Just on a lark I contacted the Jet Hot folks, and all I can say is great customer pre-sales service! I dropped them an email, and I had a quote for the headers and x-over back in minutes, along with immediate responses to several questions. Then today, not a week later, a package from Fed-Ex shows up on my doorstep with a formal quote, complete instructions on how to send the parts, and various testimonials, reviews, and even a VHS tape on the product. ..and I hadn't even committed to getting it done. And BTW, to get the whole exhaust coated, $120US. $25 shipping Just for the heat reduction qualities alone, I might just get this done. Their turnaround is about 5-7 days. al

...yep, mine and all the associated tubing/plumbing was gone within a couple hours of having the bike home from the dealer. Fugly mess al

...since you probably post the article due to copyright, etc... Any chance you could offer a synopsis of his methodology? Coincidentally I am going to a free suspension workshop tonight..... al

...yep, don't waste your time and money getting OEM relays from your MG dealer, although the new "tall" ones should be fine. For a lot less $$, check out: http://www.guzzitech.com/Relays.html al

That.. and the current relays, as the original relays are problematic. For ~$30 you can replace them all. Check www.guzzitech.com for more info... al

That's correct, it's very flexible and thin. It makes bends quite easily, and even if the sleeve is too large a diameter, it's easy to "fold/wrap" it around the line and cinch down. Good stuff al

...agreed! If I hadn't heard so many differing opinions on the reliability of cam gears, I'd get them too... just for the whine It'll be interesting to hear/watch Jason's experience. al

.... heh heh, you said "fugly" al

..naw, it only comes off once it has "bubbled" up, and even then it sometimes hangs on for a while until it finally cracks. I'm generally pretty gentle with the sponge when I clean the bike anyway, so I've been lucky so far. But I would imagine that any vigorous scrubbing or high-pressure washing(bad idea anyway) would tend to indeed blow the flaking/bubbling paint right off al

IMHO ....I think that looks really cool, although I think the larger Speed Triple lights would look better. In general I'm not a big fan of projector beams on motorcycles, as I think they just look too small. But substitute the twin ~6" beams from the Triumph, and you've got a stand-out neat looking bike al

..that's what I suspected al

Perhaps a dumb question, but is there any way to tell if they have/haven't been greased without removing the wheel? Just curious... al

..sure, here ya go Raceco tappet clearances for Moto Guzzi two and four valve engines When I read the last sentence of this comment, my first reaction was: "...you don't say? " Hope that helps! al

Hi Jason, ....so you finally got your repaired head back? Great to hear that you can finally get the bike back on the road, although it's too bad you didn't get a chance to get your other work done by Summer. You'll have to let us know how the gears work out... a full installation, and long-term write-up I'll be espeically interested to hear how they work out long-term. BTW, why did you decide to get timing gears? I've heard some very mixed opinions and results. Regarding the heat sheilding, this is the same stuff I've got. You'll need the 5/8"->1" diameter version. The smaller size just won't quite make it. I think I used this size even for the small fuel-injection hoses as well, as again it was just a bit too tight for the smaller size. al

Yep, this is a common problem on new bikes.... and in it's most basic form, it's a function of the engine still being quite tight. Although your official "break" or "run" -in has been achieved, these bikes really only loosen up after 5-12k miles(depending on who you ask). Now, there also can be some contributory issues if the bike isn't running well in general such as the TPS being a bit off, or the TBs being out of synch, etc... but these can and should be addressed first. However, in the interim there are some things one can do if everything else is in order. First, I have personally found that having the valves set to a looser RaceCo spec generally cures the problem. Over time, as the engine continues to loosen, one can tighten the valves back up to the factory spec... or not... it doesn't really impact performance, not for street applications anyway. The only real difference is that the valve-train is a bit more noisy, and in fact that's why especially in the USA the valves from the factory are quite tight... to reduce noise. However, early in the engine's life, at idle, these tight specs(especially after the engine is good and heated from a "high rpm" run) make the engine have trouble maintaining a smooth idle or even running at idle at all. Another option is to bump up the idle RPM a bit. And one can also richen the fuel mixture a bit. The easiest way to play with this is to get a Power Commander. But for me, the "cure" was the valve adjust. At least so far Hope that helps. al

I like the idea of the Frog Specialties signal integrated mirrors, but the one photo provided doesn't really look like a quality piece of kit. Perhaps it's just a bad photo?? If they provide you with any additional photos of the mirrors installed, please feel free to post them though. On the visibility issue for integrated side marker/signals, no doubt it would be a challenge to make them adequately visible. However, as an example of a successful attempt, one need only look to the Honda VFR(Interceptor 800) of '98->'01. If something similar, albeit a bit slimmer, were to be made to fit within the cutout where the current stalks mount, I think it could be equally as functional. Who knows though. It's definitely a low priority for me, and just yet another project to consider al

Indeed... can't say enough good things about them. They gave me a free "remap" and dyno run 2 weeks after I finally sorted out my stumbling/missing problems by getting the valves adjusted. They certainly didn't have to do that considering the challengess of the first mapping weren't their fault at all. Great customer service goes a long way in my book! Nice and friendly folks! ...and they have a big-screen TV to watch while you wait al

Thanks Mike, It's great to see one of these autopsied finally It looks about how I expected though, based on what external observations could be made, along with the results from drilling, etc. Although I guess one could now "core" one knowing this, it wouldn't be a minor task. al

Is that messured from top clamping area to the center of the axle?? Excellent question, and to be honest I'm not certain. Based on my quick conversation, I think he probably measured from the top of the crown to the bottom of the fork, not to the center of the axle. And the forks are lying on the floor, fully extended, with no load. So I suspect one can take another 10mm off of the length at least. I'll try to clarify. In the meantime, maybe someone knows the dimensions/specs of these forks more specifically? The Ducati website seemed a little light on the details. Thanks Paul ....it's especially good to hear/know that the specs for the '00->current triples, and clip-ons for the Sport/LeMans didn't change even though MG went to 43mm sliders. That simplifies things immensely for owners. al

...you're talking about the fella that wanted 1200 Euro for these Ohlins correct? If so, that just barely blows my budget right now Just double-checking... if it's actually cheaper, let me know... Do you know which Ohlins model# this is that he has so that we can cite it in a FAQ for those that might be interested in the future?? al BTW, the fella I just spoke to that had the forks said they measured about 30.5 inches lying on the floor. They are 43mm sliders, with 53mm clamping areas. The 30.5 inch length comes out to about 770mm. And I believe you stated that we needed 760mm for the LeMans. Does what he quoted sound correct? I guess to simplify this, I need to boil the following down to one FAQ/post so others interested in this can figure out what will fit more easily. - upper triple diameter - lower triple diameter - OEM clip-on diameter(should be the same as upper triple) - free length...top cap to center axle - axle diameter - caliper bolt spacing - Will the stock fender fit(how do we determine that by measurements/technically?) We should try to put this together for both '00->'02 bikes, and for '03 forward. Final question, if one does get a fork that has a larger diameter axle, for example such as is found on 2003+ bikes, can one simply change out the front bearing/axle to the correct diameter, or does one have to get a new wheel as well? al

Most folks that have done this(alone) have reported no issues with leaving everything else stock. If you combine this with airbox, air-filter, x-over, etc... YMMV, and it would probably be in your best interest to have your dealer tweak the fuel mixture(if they have the MG/FIM software) or just get a PCIII. al

Does anyone know the length(specs) on the Showas that are coming on the Ducati 749/999 bikes? These look like excellent forks, and I'm seeing a lot of "take offs" where guys are replacing them with Ohlins. These forks look like they are really a nice kit, and I have to suspect that unless these Ducati folks are replacing them with Ohlins "superbike" versus "R/T" versions, they probably aren't really getting much extra from the 'upgrade' Anyway, I already know they are 43mm, which can be addressed, but I wonder what their length is, and if our calipers and fender will attach without modification?? al An example: Don't go stealin' the forks I'm looking at! *laugh*