al_roethlisberger

Yeah, I've got that kit from Evoluzione. The reason I was asking about the pressure was that if I can't find/make a reasonable adapter to mate the OEM regulator to a fitting so that I can mount it remotely... I was looking at a number of aftermarket regulators that might work. But I needed the OEM working pressure, which is about what I susptected. I've got it at the machinist now... so we'll see. thx! al

....indeed, if we can only adjust the timing al P.S. What is the FBF "sirbox"?

....aww, now isn't that sweet. You got me all teary-eyed

....wow, you said "ass" something like three times in one post al

...kind of useless reply here, as I have no idea. But I do feel for you. From what I understand, finding a good match isn't easy. In my case, a 2002 Champagne LeMans, I just went down to my local auto-parts store and loaded up on the closest 3 or 4 touch-up paint tubes, and finally found one that's close. It's not exact, but close enough. I haven't seen your green in that mix of common touch-ups though unfortunately. You may be able to take the bike down to a local auto paint/finish supply shop and they can put their chromo-thinga-ma-jingy computer on the paint and mix a close match?? I've seen that done before. But the trick there is to get them to make up a batch that doesn't require purchasing a several hundred $$ gallon of the stuff, and it not being some professional two-part paint. But that's where I'd check, just start calling around and see who might be able to analyze the paint, and mix a close small batch for you. ...or you could just repaint the bike with a more common "antifreeze green" That's actually what I plan to do if my LeMans ever gets it's paint job really torn up. I'll just repaint it with a similar color, but one that is some GM/Chrysler/Ford color that's easy to get paint for. Or I might just paint it ORANGE and powdercoat the frame purple al

I think that there are actually 2 or 3 models out there that will work, even some very small cone shaped K&Ns that people have fitted. But I think the cylindrical ones as pictured, and like mine, look better and provide more surface area. You might try www.guzzitech.com for more info on filters as well. I don't have the part number for the filters you show, however if you check out my thread: Pods versus modified airbox lid thread The filters I used are K&N model: RU 1780 And the advantage(in my opinion) of the filters I've used is that they already include the "intake runner" and are angled so that they hug up against the bike better than the straight ones as you have pictured above. Although some may disagree, the conventional wisdom is that one shouldn't hang the K&Ns directly off of the TBs, and instead should cut/use the intake runner to attach the filter upon. However, as I mention, some of the newer K&Ns have an extended flange that is essentially the same thing, so that the OEM runner and rubber gasket is no longer required. This is what I have on my bike. Hope that helps. al

And here's another question, for those that have dual-plugged older bikes that can have their ignition easily modified mechanically... typically are they "advancing" or "retarding" the timing a bit? I suspect I keep getting these terms juxtaposed al

I've got a fuel-pressure guage I'm going to throw onto the system to measure mine, but does anyone know what the spec is for the high-pressure side of our EFI system? thx! al

Cliff, I may be wrong, but I believe that since we have resistor plugs(NGK BPR6ES) as OEM, the wires are actually not resistor equipped?? Oh, and in regard to ordering a set of wires, how do I specify the correct "ends" of the cables when describing them to the person on the other end of the phone? The plug end is easy enough, but apparently there are a number of different possible coil ends(I called Nology, and they asked). Is there a "magic term", size, and/or model for the type our Magnetti Marelli coil towers mate to? thx! al

Yeah, but although I am known to tear the various OEM setups apart, my first preference is always to avoid something that isn't plug/play. ...and with the ECU harness so critical Hope to hear some positive news on the "correct" connector al

Well I think I remember Carl fitzing and fuming that he bought the OEM cables for something like $75USD, then soon found out that he could have made better cables for less So, anyone have any source and/or opinions on reasonably priced alternatives, and which cables might be "better"? Do our OEM cables have any "special requirements" I should know about ahead of time before going out and shopping? Evoluzione.net has some "good ones" for about $30USD, but they only come in bright YELLOW... hrmm And for example: anyone know anything about those "Nology" capacitor cables? al

Actually, this is true of all the V11 Sport varieties(LeMans, Scura, etc) where the fuel supply line is probably the main culprit as it often runs very close to, or actually touches, the left cylinder. After a "hot run" and parking the bike, the line gets heat-soaked and the fuel vaporizes. At least that's the theory. This has been the case from the original models up through 2003 where the fuel-pump went in the tank. MG is apparently aware of the issue though, and since 2000 has moved the pump location at least 3 times that I am aware of on the Sports before finally resorting to putting the pump in the tank. This may or may not be the blessing it appears to be, depending on the reliability of the pump, and the space it consumes. We will only have to see over time how well it holds up. But I often laugh to myself wondering what engineering "intern" was assigned the task of fixing this issue, as the problem and resolution seem very obvious to me. I suspect putting the new pump in the tank will solve the majority(if not all) of the "vapor lock" problems, although I think MG could have relocated the pump any number of other imaginative locations much earlier in the model's lifetime. The three "relocations" that I am aware of have been: 1) If you take a look at the original service manual for the V11 Sport, the fuel pump is located on top of the spine, where the filter typically is on later(pre-2003) bikes today. This seems to have been really short-lived, which seems obvious if the fuel is being vaporized and the bubble is flowing up to the pump = bad. 2) The pump and filter were swapped, with the pump now located slung under the spine, but now very close to the left cylinder. This may have helped to some degree, but I think the main issue of the supply line being too hot was not addressed, ergo the problem still extant. 3) Sometime in 2002, and seemingly to show up on the Tennis first, the pump was once again moved, this time "out front" of the engine/frame, perpendicular to the frame, mounted right above the oil-cooler. Many of us believe this final move was a stop-gap until the 2003 in-tank solution was ready to go. Whether moving the pump "out front" helped with the Vapor Lock or not, is unknown. However, in my opinion, the primary culprit was still the fuel supply line running closely(or touching) the left cylinder, and since it had no heat-shielding(the metal braiding is not heat-shield, just abrasion resistance) was susceptible. Even in the case where the pump was "out front", many fuel lines were still resting on the cylinder. The easiest fix to me is if one can simply move the supply line away from the head, and shield it, I believe(unsubstantiated) that this will help quite a bit. The reason I can't verify the efficacy of this technique is the very nature of the problem. The only 100% way I will know if my heat-shielding and relocation will help(as detailed on www.v11lemans.com) is in a failure mode(it happens again). Otherwise since this is such an intermittent and hard-to-reproduce problem, if it never seems to happen again, I can only assume that my modification worked. *sigh* But so far I feel pretty confident as I rode the bike in very hot weather the other week, and while I had other problems(unrelated... ah hem...) I didn't have the Vapor Lock rear it's head after repeated stops. But who knows yet. I'm not ready to declare victory. The only real sure-fire solution would seem to get a 2003 tank/pump and retrofit it. That would be a very pricey option though. al

Definitely keep us informed on the "connector quest" as I'd still be interested in the MY16M as an alternative so that I can tune the timing in conjunction with my dual-plugs effort, and the ability to run closed-loop would be great Here's hoping that we can source the connectors... al

...hrmm, well I understand... as you can imagine what with all my various issues. Lot of little "nits" do pile up, and over time sometimes it just takes that last little thing to tip the cart over. I can't believe the story on the "body panels" though. But "par for the course" with MGNA it seems. I'm still hoping, although not holding my breath, that things will get better over time with Aprilia's stewardship. I guess we'll just have to see what happens over time. I am very sorry to hear about the arthritis as well. I'd hate to think of a time where you can't ride and participate in a hobby that you obviously enjoy so much al

Well, hope you decide to keep the bike.... or get a new LeMans But I did want to mention something about the tachs. While not an "excuse"... the "Vague-lia" tachs on the recent generations of Guzzis are well known to be trash. That's why MG finally switched to the new black units on the 2003 bikes. My dealer laughed that he can "deal with swapping out tachs" all the time, because he can stock them and it's a known issue to Guzzi that they replace "no questions asked". But other problems such as the engine paint failing are another, bigger issue for sure. That being said, aside from the mechanical issue you noted, all the Veglia tachs I've seen fog-up from the start when unpacked and installed. I don't know if they are packaged or stored in a much more humid environment, and when taken somewhere else that is hotter, etc... they fog... I dunno. But almost all of them seem to clear-up within days and/or one can make(drill) a very small vent in an inconspicuous spot in the plastic cup and that seems to clear it up. My two units fogged, then cleared in a couple days of riding... never to do it again(knock on wood) ...again, not an excuse, but MG doesn't seem to have any issues with replacing the tachs "no questions asked", so to some degree while annoying, it seems like MG is doing the right thing. I guess the other only alternative is to request on of the new black units if one keeps having tach problems repeatedly. But then you'd have to get a black speedo as well, and I don't know if they'd pay for that... but who knows if you threw a big enough fit I guess my point is that for all the other problems we have with these bikes, I wouldn't think that the infamous "crap tachs" would be the one that pushes one over the edge to just sell the bike?? For the most part, I thought you were having pretty good luck with your 2001 Rich? al

Wow, honestly not to be argumentative, but that is odd... maybe your regional dealer isn't aware of how the fairing should be assembled out of the crate? Honestly I've seen one with it mounted on the outside, and the fella told me the dealer put it on that way when they assembled it. He never realized it was "wrong" until he saw other bikes... then he noticed how the inside of the fairing is notched for the screen, outside edge is beveled, etc... hrmmm Given the soft MG paint, I can't imagine having it on the outside of the fairing would be very good for the finish long-term. While always a matter of personal taste, it really does look better mounted on the inside in my personal opinion Official MG LeMans photo:

Why would detonation be worse? I can see that if by adding the second plug you have increased compression, and/or if the second plug raises the net plug "heat source" one might increase the chance of detonation(pinging)... but both of those would happen whether the new second plug is firing or not.... correct?? And a quick fix would be to get a cooler plug(s). But interestingly, in my case, since having the compression raised 1/4 point, and having the new plug installed(yet not firing) by Mike Rich when I had the porting done, I have actually experienced less detonation(pinging) under acceleration. So, does this mean I shouldn't expect any worse detonation once the second plug is "activated"? Whaddya think? From my meager understanding, the only benefit in retarding the timing is that with the single plug, the timing is advanced enough before TDC so that the relatively inefficient flame propagation can burn the whole air/fuel charge at the best time when the piston finally reaches TDC. With the dual-plugs, the burn should be more efficient, requiring less advance(so one retards it a bit). So, yes, to get the most efficient power from a dual-plug setup, I agree that the timing should be adjusted. However, I should be getting a cleaner burn, and possibly a bit more power.... unless the timing is *so* advanced that this newer more efficient burn is robbing me power on the compression stroke. However, from the email exchanges with TLM, who has apparently done several of these, it doesn't sound like it does lose power, and runs better at idle/low-RPM... which is exactly what I'd like Anyway, I guess the dyno will tell the tale I'll take it down to Hare for a quick run after I get the valves adjusted to Raceco specs with Mike Stewart, then again after the dual-plugging... and see what we get. I'd be happy with the same power, but a better idling/running bike. More power would be good, but we'll see I guess. Keep in mind that this is still something of an experiment If and when I can easily, reliably, and affordably remap the timing, I would do so in a heartbeat. But so far, this sounds "good enough" ... at least I hope so al

More info from the friendly folks at TLM "...more cultivated"? These guys seem really great. al

Question: Why did the manufacturer of the windscreen choose to cut the screen such that is has to be mounted on the outside of the fairing, unlike stock, which is mounted inside?? It seems like this is a little "less finished" and might catch debris, and maybe even be noisier, such as generate potential whistling. I'd also be concerned that it would scratch/abrade the painted finish of the fairing such that one couldn't reinstall the oritiginal windscreen later. Of course, I have seen a couple LeMans as delivered from the dealer with the windscreen incorrectly installed on the outside, but that was only in the first months when dealers weren't quite sure how these bikes went together Nice solution though. My OEM screen provides me more than enough protection, but I can see how many taller people, especially those with more upright bars might find this extra protection much more attractive for longer trips. al

That's the Stucci crossover. If they are selling it as a "Raceco" product, it is simply rebadged. al

Understood, and thanks Victor. Here's hoping the FBF marketing folks can see the value of just going out and buying(then reselling after complete) the competing x-overs and doing a "bake off". I'd love to see it. al

Hrmm, question: I'm not doubting Victor's information, but I have to point out how unusual it seems(to me) that the base Dyno run with just the air-box lid kit, exhaust, and PCIII has the output of the engine already at 88+ HP and 68ft-lbs of torque with only a couple hundred miles on the engine?? That's amazing output, but a bit of an optimistic surprise. Impossible? ...no I'm not saying that, but certainly surprising to me. After the FBF x-over is added, the peak HP is almost unchanged, and torque is only up another 2-ish ft-lbs(However all are increased by around 4-5 points in the midrange, which is a good thing ). However, the close nature of these results are what I would have expected if other mods such as the Stucci x-over were on the base run, then tested with the FBF x-over... not such a small increase over just the OEM x-over. In other words, by all other things being equal, and just changing from the OEM x-over to the FBF, I expected a bigger difference. I just would have expected a larger change in Dyno performance from 13,000 miles later, and the new x-over and map. My concern is how accurate this Dyno is currently running, as the base run seems awfully optimistic for what is basically a stock bike.. almost 90 RWHP. It's only down a couple HP from the "hot rod Scura" that is balanced, blueprinted, etc. Any thoughts? ...or am I just being too cynical or jealous because I only got ~86HP and 66ft-lbs on my bike Honestly, I'm confused. I still say that the best info for the community(and FBF's marketing) is if we could take the same bike and dyno it with all three x-overs within a few hours of eachother. I think that would be the most telling. Using dyno runs from a year and 13,000 miles ago is nice to have, but not the best comparison IMHO. Victor, any chance FBF might do a more "official" comparison as I describe above? It seems like it would be easy and not terribly expensive to do. I know I'd really love to see that to make a good comparison. Oh, and I'd still really like to see a photo of the x-over al

Hi Victor, Nice results Can you post a little more complete info on the bike used, especially listing any modifications, and total mileage? I would also be interested to know the altitude and temp when the run was performed. Finally, and most interesting for me... did you have the Stucci x-over on prior to the run with the FBF x-over, or the stock x-over? I'm curious what x-over the FBF was being compared to in this run. Oh, and a link/photo to what the FBF x-over looks like would be great as well thx! al

Well, as of 2001-ish, all the disks changed from the "circular hole" style to the newer "spider" style carrier and disk. These are supposedly better disks. I haven't heard of any of these warping in large numbers like the original Brembo disks pre-2001. So I think really the only significant mechanical thing on the Rosso Mandello is the single-plate clutch, and if indeed it has a lightened flywheel as mentioned above. Given my idling problems, I'm not sure though that I'd want a lightened flywheel and clutch assembly though Again, nice bike, but just letting prospective buyers be fully informed so that they aren't disappointed or otherwise surprised. al

Well, regarding the fairing... while I don't have that item, my experience with CF body panels long-term durability has never been good. It's always amused me to some degree ever since the CF "craze" started, especially in the Ducati crowd after many folks noted it's extensive use on race bikes. So then came along all the pretty CF aftermarket bits, and lo-and-behold... since it was never designed to "look pretty" but instead just be light and strong... it didn't wear well. My friend had a similar, although not Stucci, CF bikini fairing on his Ducati Monster... and it started to turn grey, and the resin started to raise off of the CF weave after a couple years. It progressively got worse, until he just painted it black. That's not to say all CF items will turn to chalk, but many, especially exhausts, do not last forever, especially when exposed to the elements. That said, if the damage isn't too bad, you can fill the chips with resin, then sand and polish it to a nice sheen again. This repair works for a long while until the surrounding bits start to lift. I think it's just the nature of CF used as body panels... unfortunately. In regard to the tank resting on the side air-box covers/panels, I too have the tank touching them and rubbing the paint. However, it's only cosmetic, and the rubbed portion is actually under the tank and invisible on my bike... so no big deal to me. What is a big deal though is that the weight of the tank has stessed my right panel, and cracked it around one of the fasteners. The "fix" indeed is supposedly to put some washers/bushing under the tank bolt to raise it a bit. I haven't tried it yet though. Sorry to hear about your issues though. Good luck. al