al_roethlisberger

I too have a little "rust", in my case on the "inside/top" of the right header as it begins its curve down and back toward the x-over. It's just a small patch, maybe a cm across, and it nearly polishes off with a cloth. I've seen several other V11s that have similar spots throughout the curve of the headers, so I guess it's not uncommon, although my SS headers on my old FJ never rusted at all. So I dunno.... Also, BTW, as predicted... even with only running it for a total of about 20 minutes while I'm waiting on my PC to arrive... the Stucci x-over has already turned a near perfect gold-toned match to the headers. I thought, "wow, that was quick!" So, no problemo! al

Hear Hear Rich While I can't claim to riding in anything colder than about 40(note that I had no winter gear at all... other than "heavier" gloves other than my normally perforated leather ones)... brrrrrr ...I can attest completely to the feeling of "accomplishment" once one has ridden through a cold rain for hours, then stumbling into a cafe to cradle a hot coffee to laugh off and reflect on what you just went through ...the hardest and most uncomfortable rides often turn out to be the most memorable and "fun" in hindsight! al Oh, and P.S.... my "winterizing" of bikes has almost always been "taking them apart" for needed maintenance or hot-rodding/accessorizing Cold dreary weather is a great time for tinkering!

I think Buck summed-it-up nicely with: al

Hrmm, OK.... I know "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" ... and I sincerely don't mean to question anyone's sense of style... but holy-cow!! ...that angular GB "quartz crystal" of a muffler is one ugly lump of metal! ...especially when compared with the curvacious styling of our V11 Sport/LeMans. It just seems to "clash" to me. ...or of course, maybe *I'm* the aesthetically challenged one! And anyway, seriously, who'd want to go from a beautifully sounding(and acceptably performing) dual-exhaust to a single side-exit on our bikes?? Unless you're racing or something for top speed/HP... and I just don't see that as the typical demographic for V11 Sport/LeMans owners(see the "age" poll if you're unsure ). Of course it's all a matter of personal taste, so no worries... and I don't mean to be negative, but I just couldn't let this one go:). Apologies in advance guys al

Yep, K&N is out.... they really should update their webpage al

Hrmm, yeah, I've heard similar disappointing stories from a couple other folks since I reported placing the order online. I'll call K&N tomorrow to double-check it's status, and if the part isn't available probably take you up on your generous offer. Thank you BTW, what were you looking to recoup for your used PCIII? thx al

Well, OK... I went ahead and ordered the PCIII model 706-211 from K&N Now, I'll need to get a map for: - Stock, except for drilled out back-plate on OEM mufflers, and Stucci x-over and later... - the addition of the FBF airbox lid removal kit Does anyone have maps that have worked well with these two setups? Also, barring a malfunction other than in the FI setup, should I try to get the bike tuned as well as possible with the FIM softward on the stock ECU before applying the PCIII, or will it not matter as the PCIII will over-ride the ECUs instructions for the FI completely anyway? thx! al

Hi Janus, Thanks, but unfortunately I think you may have missed the point of my question... I completely understand the hardware/software discussion of the other thread, and didn't mean to suggest that there were different V11 PCIIIs out there for every V11 Sport "family". ...however, before purchasing the PCIII, I am simply trying to confirm the correct model number of PCIII to order, as there are a multitude of different models, with different connectors, etc. and I don't want to buy the wrong version then have to return it, etc... For example, there are no less than 4 different model numbers listed on the Power Commander application chart for Moto Guzzi alone, and to top that off, not one of those specifically lists itself as the model for our 2001+ LeMans/Sport/Scura/etc... the 706-211 is listed as the application for the 2000-2001 Sport and I suspect that is the correct application, but I'm just checking. So I'm just trying to do my due-diligence regarding what model has worked for everyone else before purchasing Is the 706-211 the correct model for every 2000+ V11 Sport/LeMans/Scura/etc? If so, the K&N deal sounds like a winner!! (..and DynoJet needs to update their website ) thx! al

...BTW, I went to the PowerCommander website, and it seems that the model listed above, while only officially listed for the 2000-2001 Sport is the same and only model available for the Sport/LeMans. So before I buy the discounted one from K&N, I just wanted to double-check that the 706-211 is the correct model for my 2002 LeMans: PC Models Power Commander for V11 Sport (2000-2001) Is this the model you all are using? thx! al

Well, so far the best pricing I've seen is at K&N, but I think their limited stock is for the wrong year/model: 83706-211 PCIII - MOTO GUZZI VII SPORT, 00-01 - $145.00 I'm guessing that our 2002/2003 LeMans requires a different unit? Or will this work? Anyone else run across any good deals? al

We'd love to see photos once installed... keep us informed al

Well based on other folks' experience I would tend to agree, but all I can say is that the bike ran like a champ before drilling the mufflers, and then ran *much* worse after then installing the x-over. I certainly can entertain that something else could be amiss in coincidence with the modification of the exhaust and the installation of the x-over affecting performance.... but given that I didn't even come close to touching anything near my throttle bodies(i.e. TPS) ... and again that the bike ran perfectly prior to the installation, all I can guess is that my most recent tune-up with the FIM softward tuned the bike very specifically within a narrow range with the stock setup, and once I modified the airflow with these mods, it threw off the mixture.... probably leaning it up guessing on the glowing header ..... boy is that a run-on sentence or what? Anyway, I don't think it's any big deal, I was just surprised at the dramatic results. I would suggest that like many other things we've observed with Guzzis, these bikes and their tuning probably vary dramatically from bike to bike. So depending on how the bike was originally tuned, and how sensitive it is to changes in it's intake/exhaust, one bike may require little to no modifications, while another may have just been on the cusp of running well, and that final modification may have been that final straw to make it exhibit noticable changes in performance. This may have been the case with my bike... dunno. All-in-all, I'm sure that once I get it tuned, either with the FIM software and/or a PC, all will be fine. I just wanted to touch base with everyone regarding their experiences, and where the best pricing on a PC is these days I agree that these results are "odd"... al

Well, I had drilled out my stock cans a while back, and without any tuning, the bike ran a bit rougher... so I though "no big deal".. I'll get the shop to run the FIM software the next time I take it in... as it was running "like a top" before the mod to the cans after a prior tune-up with the software. Then I finally had some time after the craziness of the Holidays to get my Stucci x-over installed as well.... However, when I had it all put back together and started it up: 1) The left exhaust header started to glow a bit on fast fast idle during "warm up" (...I probably left it running at 2k a bit too long, but this has never happened before). 2) Upon *trying* to ride the bike around the block, it coughed and bucked all the way to about 3k, where it more or less smoothed out, but still coughed here and there. It was essentially unrideable. Well, obviously I need to the the ECU tuned and/or a PCIII, but I have to say that even though I understand the effects changing the exhaust has on the system... I am pretty surprised at the degree of impact these two relatively simple changes had on the bike. I can only assume that the bike had been previously tuned to run very specifically with the previous setup's parameters... So, where's the best-buy on PCIIIs these days? And, any thoughts on this behavior is appreciated as well. I certainly can't even ride it to the shop like this. Either I get a PC, and/or put the stock parts back on to get it to the shop just to change it all out again ...and I haven't even put my FBF air-box lid eliminator on yet Good thing it's getting "Wintery"... and I had planned 'downtime' for the bike anyway al

Why not, my friend rode his VFR on the last one we went on We don't usually do these rides(at least I don't) in the rain though, so the breather thing probably wouldn't be too much of an issue.... al

Hey Tam... just noticed that you are in Fremont! Wow, there sure seems to be a real concentration of these bikes in the Northern CA area, as you've probably noticed I am in San Jose, and my GF actually lives in Fremont, so I'm up there all the time. You'll have to hook up with us all for one of Carl's rides al P.S. BTW, good tip/observation on the breather. We'll all have to check ours to make certain it is sheilded, or take Rich's advice and vent it differently with a hose....

Yep, although it would alter the compression, but I'm sure Mike would account for that. So, with all this in mind... I wonder *which* type of coil(s) one would get to accomodate the second set of plugs and how one would wire them appropirately. I'm sure it's not rocket-science, but I have no idea... al

Yeah, with all that in mind, and from talking to Mike... from my perspective(which is a definite, "set it and leave it alone" point of view ), it sounded like the benefit of dual-plugging wasn't really enough to have to justify all the tinkering needed to dial it in. He was saying that above 7500rpm you would see a few more HP, but in day-to-day riding it wouldn't make much difference. Economy and retarding detonation would be improved of course by dual-plugging, but he also said that could be addressed in a number of different ways as well. So, I guess it all boils down to how willing one is to spend time and money to wring out that last little bit of performance, and if one just wants the nifty factor as well. Since I have limited funds and want to definitely lean toward the KISS and reliability end of the spectrum... I think I'll pass on the dual-plugging for now, although it definitely was tempting and sounded nifty I think the porting will give me the best "bang" in this area for the buck, and things like dual-plugging start to get into a region of "diminishing returns"... buying new coils, getting a new map, wires, plugs, the extra $3-400 work on the heads... *sigh*... yeah, I can't do that for an extra 5HP at the top end ...now if I end up with detonation problems, we may be revisiting this! I'll be interested to hear how it works out though, esp when/if the new PC that can change timing comes out One thing I have considered though is to have him work the heads to accept dual-plugs, then just actually install them later... i.e. plug the second plug-hole until later. But who knows. al

Just as an update... ...I had a long conversation with Mike Rich today(which I would highly recommend to anyone considering these types of modifications) and although he laughed that he was probably talking himself out of another ~$300 of work(which I respect), his experience with dual-plugging our bikes has only really had real benefits on bikes pushing beyond what would traditionally be our redline, at peak power.... Now he did say that there is some benefit to retarding detonation, but that can be addressed in a number of different fashions such as type of fuel, and temperature plug choice. But he had a wealth of information, experience, and recommendations based on what your goals are, and was more than happy to chat about it at length. For me, I was stressing reliability, economy, while with that in mind trying to gain performance.... an everyday street bike. His recommendation was his "Stage II" porting, which is porting the heads, and reworking the valve guides. Additionally, he recommended shaving the head to increase compression by 1/2 a point, as Guzzi is notoriously optimistic with their compression figures where his experience has consistently shown their 9:1 really being in the 8:1 range. So an increase in 1/2 a point will be well within the safe range of everyday useability, but really buy quite a bit in low to mid-range power in combination with his port job. While every bike is different, he estimates a real increase of about 3hp per cylinder, which is significant. And that power, based on the owner's requirements, is tuned for where you want it... in my case in the midrange, while not sacrificing top-end. He says he'll increase flow from about 90cfm on average to about 116cfm. His pricing is about $700 for "Stage I" which is just the porting, and $800 for the "Stage II". There is a "Stage III" which is $1300, but I forget what all it entailed, and he said it was geared for a race application, not what I was looking for. Oh, and for anyone still interested in dual-plugging, he's got a kit/solution designed that will work better than past solutions which had relied on one of the cylinder stud holes for the auxiliary plug. The past solution had compromised the seal of the cylinder at times because the stud had been replaced and stretched non uniformly with the other cylinder studs, but his new modification takes another approach which he can explain when you call. But based on my conversation, I don't think that the "gee whiz" factor of dual-plugging will buy me much, and may even prove to be a reliability liability.. as well as added expense and difficulty to dial-in. So I think I'll go with the port job, get my x-over on, air-box eliminator... and pick up a PC-III in the next months... and that should about do-it for hot-rodding. Then we'll figure out how to wring every drop of fuel from our funky tanks, and I'll be set al

....just as an aside, whenever any of you swap out the stock bars, and don't want your OEM LeMans bars anymore... drop me a line. I'd love to take them off of your hands for cheap if you were going to toss them or hide them away on a back shelf never to be used again! I like to keep a spare set or two of things that are likely to "hit the ground first" in an unfortunate tip-over Same for OEM exhaust cans. In fact, I want to tinker with "gutting" them, so a couple spare sets of them would give me stock to work with... and I'm not about to buy new ones for mucho dinero from MG, just to cut-up I've got one pair already, so probably don't need more cans right now, but keep me in mind and just touch base if you're looking to unload OEM parts that aren't being used. thx! al

Hi Carl, Yes I have the Signal-Minder as well, but I guess it's because of my Corbin seat, but my SM-2 fits perfectly under the seat in the stock location, even with the tail-light-delay lead plugged-in. Oh, and since the SM-2(and my headlight flasher by Kisan) aren't sealed against water/weather in any way, and they are electronic... I dipped them in vinyl dip(covering appropriate plugs of course with tape) and now they are weather-tight! But they work great, and I really like the look of the running-lights. I also have heated grips with my running-lights, and an 80/1xx headlight... with no charging problems what-so-ever. al

Hey, now that's a pretty neat idea. Any schematics/photos/etc of how he did this exactly? Also, I'll have to ping Rich, but I thought he was going to work on a "balance tube" solution this winter for the tank so we could get to that last little half-gallon in the right side of our tanks.... al

...just thought I'd post the same update in this thread too Formotion is now shipping the new and improved(hopefully) SS Thermometer to address the paint "shedding" or "dusting" from the needle as noticed on some of the white-faced units. Formotion has been working on a solution to this issue since last Summer, and has apparently found a paint solution that will not vibrate from the needle as easily. I just received my replacement unit with a postage paid box to ship back the defective unit at Formotion's cost. I can't say enough good things about their customer service, a definite "thumbs up"! Hopefully the new thermometer will not exhibit this minor, but annoying problem any longer al

BTW, just wanted to update anyone with the "defective" Formotion SS Thermometers that were "shedding" paint on the white faces.... that Formotion has been working the last 6 months or so to improve and replace under warrantee..... Formotion just sent me the new updated thermometer, and a postage-paid box with which to return the defective unit at their cost. I can't say enough about their great customer service A definite "thumbs up"! al

Indeed Carl To those who are tiring of the complaints, as I've mentioned before, please don't mistake my pointing out the problems I've encountered as an indictment against the V11 or MG as being awful bikes. But as Jason mentioned, by the nature of discussion forums... whether electronic, or just over a beer, the topics of most interest are always the most controversial or sensational So, we're not as likely to see people posting notes saying, "Hey, just another update that my V11 is running absolutely to spec again today! I'll keep everyone posted!" However, to Ivan's comment, there are some issues with the manufacturer regarding ongoing support, and repetitive failures that I think is our right to report and communicate to the manufacturer. And, we also often discuss these issues ad-nauseum at times in an attempt to find a home-grown work-around when we can't get support. So, don't take all the complaints to heart as recommendations against the V11 or other MG products... Lots of products have problems, and their discussion forums will be filled with the worst and most frequent as well. It's just to be expected. But as a current V11 LeMans owner, I really enjoy the bike, and don't think as-a-whole that it is much worse than other brands regarding reliability. ....but it could be better, and that is sometimes frustrating al

Thanks Rich... that's a real compliment coming from you! I try to make everything look as factory/OEM as possible... I just hate "half-assed" jobs, but then again I'm known for being fairly "anal" BTW, if anyone was curious, that knob on the left is for my heated grips. al