al_roethlisberger

....ok, I've got the "red MG stand" as well and I've had it for a long while. And while I think it's pretty spiffy, I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the bike up on it by myself. Trying to balance the bike with one hand, while trying to look under the bike to line-up the detents in the stand with the plate-bolts.... trying not to drop the bike and/or take a chunk out of the frame's paint... ..well, I've never sucessfully got the bike up on the darned thing! ...so, if those that have had better success could post their "method" for using the stand, I could shake off it's cobwebs and finally put it to use al

Correct, all you have to do is orient the tip-over valve vertically(when it's not vertical, that's the problem) and lash it to the frame. I've attached mine to the front motor cradle/frame, and all is well. al

Thanks ...wow, that's quite a bit of fuel-economy increase. Just to clarify, your observed increase in fuel economy was with the addition of the elimimator alone?? Other than the increased "noise"(which some may like), are there any downsides you've(or anyone else) has observed? I've already got a K&N and F-by-F sells the frame, so this would be a pretty cheap upgrade at about $40. ...and heck, I wasn't even banking on increased fuel-economy! al

Hi, So has anyone had any experience good or bad with the airbox lid eliminator kit from Fast by Ferraci? I am curious about anyone's observations, quality, performance, etc... Also, once installed, will it require a remap of the injection? It seems like it would?? Thanks in advance al

FYI, I have the exact same Bosch relays in every slot.... without problem. Check out: GuzziTech al

That's interesting, as my "mix" of new and old Siemens relays definitely had different model numbers... I seem to remember the old ones being xxx...74 and new ones being xxx...75 or something like that. I received the same story though, that MG had switched back to Siemens, and that the new relays were supposed to be trouble-free. yeah... I switched them all to the gray Bosch units ...I kept the "new" Siemens as spares in my tool kit. Hope everything else goes well for you. Oh, and BTW, although I never did mention it in my various other posts... my paint has "dirt" in it on almost every body panel, especially the fairing. I just decided not to persue that ... as I had too many other issues *sigh* al

Since pinging is basically early detonation... sure, the heat could exacerbate the problem. My bike pings every once in a while under hard acceleration, but it's a rarity, and it's only when I really open the throttle under load. I still haven't picked up the tape I mention above, and now that it's cooling down... I probably have less incentive ... but I'll probably get it later. Winter usually means bike tinkering for me anyway, so we'll see what I do. al

I've had: - right half of front fairing - left side cover - front fender - right "red" side plate - tachometer - misc small parts, such as the washers that are *supposed* to go under the bolts for fairing(I know I could replace these myself, but it's the principle...) All on order since *MAY*... - and I didn't even "claim" the scratch on the tank and tail as delivered from the factory, or complain too badly that the fairing was incorrectly assembled... ...no update from Guzzi, and dealer has no idea. I'm getting pretty fumed. Guzzi is really trying my patience. I just count my blessings that nothing mechanically disabling has occurred that requires a part from overseas... geez. al

BTW, something someone posted to the MGCL list.... Heat Sheild Tape at JC Whitney Perhaps this could be wrapped around the fuel supply line for some additional "insurance". I heard that one fella in Canada?? moved his fuel-pump to the rear of the bike, without much affect. So perhaps the heat is getting to the fuel-line more than the pump?? It's hard to say without additional experimentation. But the tape above might be an easy bit of extra protection al

Rich, I saw the various replies to your question on the MGCL list, where several folks felt that it was more of an issue where the vent was clogging.... if you have any updates on this condition, that would be very helpful. But on another, but similar, note.... has anyone had the gold anodization on their rear disc start to discolor(darken) about 1/4 inch wide along the edge where the gold stops and the real disc material is? My rear drags a bit sometimes too... the infamous "groan", but a quick tap on the brake cures it. I'm just wondering if my disc has been overheated once or twice, and the anodization got a bit "burned". ...wonder if this would be a warantte issue? Anyone else have this happen? It just looks a bit funky, and I'm mildy concerned that the gold will start to come off. BTW, the disc still seems true, and the brake functions fine. It's just aesthetic at this point. al

Yes, I had thought the same.... a balance tube. But my concerns were about the integrity of the tank once a hole was drilled, and sealing. Rich seems to have given it even a bit more thought, so maybe he's onto something. I'll wait excitedly for his thoughts this winter.... especially since it will save me tinkering with my bike as a doaner I was even thinking about keeping an eye out for a spare tank on eBay, but I'll hold off now. The "evoluzion" (pardon me for the misspelling ) folks should keep this in mind for an accessory as well, if they are still trolling for ideas This would be a great one! al

Rich Maund just mentioned in another thread that he's looking into a kit to balance the fuel in the tank, hopefully making the otherwise unavailable 1/2 gallon on the right side available through a balance tube. We'll see if he has time, but I'll be very interested in his results. ...although I must say, I was very impressed with my mileage as reported above, even without a fix for the unused portion of fuel I still haven't tested total range or "run dry" yet though.... al

Rich, I've been giving this same issue(the "lost" 1/2 gallon) a great deal of thought for the same reasons as well. Pleeeeese keep me.... us... posted on this if you put together a kit. I know that I would be very very interested in a simple reliable kit that would make that last bit of fuel available. al

I still don't like the new guages, but maybe I'll get used to them ...looks great though. I'd like to get those Ohlins suspenders front and rear for mine. Maybe next year al

Yep, just as an FYI, I don't think my 2002 LeMans has an electric or vacuum petcock either. I don't know if MG changed the design from 2001->2002 or if the Sport is just different from the LeMans... who knows But mine has a manual knob under the right-hand fuel-supply tap where the fuel-supply line attaches to the tank. Just screw it shut, although I agree that it tends to still drip a bit. I plugged it with a vacuum cap. al

Who fixes them in Palo Alto.... CA?? ...which BTW is about 15 miles from my house al

John, You might be interested in my write-up on the Formotion clocks, and my mounting method specifically for the Le Mans in the old forum under: Formotion Clocks and Thermometer I have photos posted in my Yahoo briefcase, and a fairly detailed description of the products. BTW, the only "lesson learned" is that I used 2 or 3 0(single aught) rubber bib-washers around the M6(I think) 2 1/2" bolt to space the bracket above the dashboard so that it would be somewhat isolated from vibration, and to avoid marring the plastic and so that the gauges would sit "even".... If you don't know what I'm talking about ... I think you'll understand once you see the photos and where/how I mounted it. al

Yep, I'd recommend contacting him as his seats get great reviews, but the last I heard... he wasn't taking any more orders for seats or anything else for a loooong time, as he was very backordered. I don't know if this is still the case though... but just an FYI al

My dealer is Moto Italia in San Mateo "the largest MG dealer in North America".... But seriously, they are good guys. They do good work, etc... but they, like other dealers I've spoken to, have been in "limbo" for months(4 months and counting now) with any parts ordered from MG Italy. It's always "on the water", "stuck in customs", or otherwise screwed up because of the warehouse relocations after the Aprilia reorg... when they check with MG. My parts are body panels which generally aren't stocked by anyone.. And in regard to the service, they have always been more than happy to "make things right", even for free when appropriate. But with the oil-leak, I had heard before that the service manuals were inaccurate in regard to quantities of oil, etc... and this leak is a common result. So this may have not been their fault completely. Oh, and in regard to the paint bubbling/chipping... while I think you are completely justified in demanding a new part, this is a very common defect in the painted engines that everyone seems to encounter sooner or later. The only real "fix" I've heard is what your dealer suggested, which is to get the black "wrinkle" engine-paint from HD and touch it up al

Scura, Sorry to hear you are still having some trouble. I'm surprised to hear that your relays are hitting the seat pan. I've got the Bosch units, which are taller, but mine clear with some room to spare. As I've mentioned, I believe the pans do vary because they are hand-laid, so it's certainly possible that yours is different. My rubber feet/grommets are a perfect fit/alignment. Also, regarding the distance on the seat-back, I had Corbin add a good 3 inches to the back of the seat so that I could sit forward and still feel like I had some back support. What's also interesting, and testament to the varying end-results, is that my seat isn't any higher than my stock seat. BUT I also had them shave the sides of my seat so that it wasn't as wide, which lets me sit lower. All-in-all, still very satisfied with my seat, and there just isn't any substitute for going to the factory and working with them to get it right... if that is an option. al

*laugh* ... my "eagle" is also crooked on my timing-chain cover! I tried to "twist" it, but it just goes right back. I've just gotten used to it over time, but good grief! BTW, regarding the "plume" on the Formotion thermometer, this is a known issue. They are great folks at Formotion, and replaced my first thermometer free of charge with no questions asked stating that they are aware and apparently receieved a bad batch with defective paint(the black plume is paint dust from the vibrating needle). However, upon my second thermometer exhibiting the same problem, I called back and they now have more info: They are completely redesigning the paint/needle to avoid this paint shedding from vibration. They will still replace your thermometer free of charge now, but recommend that if you can stand to wait a bit, they would prefer to supply the new/improved unit when ready. In the meantime, they suggest using the calibration instructions included with the thermometer to open the case and use a fine-bristled paint brush to dust the paint from the face. It should just dust right off, and in fact, the needle may quit shedding any further. Anyway, they are great folks at Formotion, and very apologetic about this issue. I get the impression that they are working diligently to rectify the problem and get new units out the door. I would suggest giving them a call and getting on the list for a new unit, and in the meantime, if the dust-trail bothers you, use their suggestion to clean it up temporarily. Me, I'll just wait al

Janus, I've seen various posts in other forums about the "correct" amount of oil and tranny fluid for the V11s, versus what is stated in the shop manual, etc. That's why I suspect my leak was induced by the shop overfilling the bike. Do you have any experience/tips on what you've found to be the correct volume for both since you've been changing them yourself? BTW, I agree that this is almost certainly from the shop overfilling my bike, as it's just too much of a coincidence. I'm going to call them tomorrow to let them know my displeasure.... again.... It's too bad really... whether it's the bike itself, or the inaccurate manuals, etc... Guzzi is really shooting themselves in the foot if they keep this up. I can only hope, as everyone has for the last year or so, that Aprilia and Guzzi sort this all out soon. al

Hi Ed, ...glad to hear you received your MG parts so quickly Me, I've been waiting oh... 4 months and couting for my various warrantee items. I'm beginning to lose patience after being told several times that "the shipment is on the water"... So to add to my newly developed rear tranny leak, I've now developed a pretty loud squeak coming from the swingarm/rear-suspension when I go over large enough bumps to make the suspension travel significantly al

Yep, I've been keeping an eye out for this one on mine too(knocking on wood).... I haven't personally had this happen so far, but I have heard of this on several other V11 bikes before. Many people have had this repaired under warrantee, or like yourself just fixed it themselves... but in the end, it always broke again from the vibration, etc... The advice I've seen is to eventually just give up and take it out... as apparently it makes little difference because most bulbs are coated on the tip to eliminate direct glare anyway. al

Hrmm, now if that isn't the best, and perhaps most obvious, idea I've heard in a long time.... Good grief, I honestly have *NO* idea why any of us hadn't considered this method before.... especially since I was just thinking the other day how much easier it was just to take my one-piece fairing off of my FJ-1200!! duh Great idea, and based on my difficulties getting it all lined-up again, I'll be giving it a try as soon as I need to replace a headlight bulb! THX! al