al_roethlisberger

They are trying to remove the debris from the oil return before it gets back to the sump. Better than relying on the sump screen or having the rusty dust like particles go through the sump screen, scour the pump housing before being captured by the filter. Ciao ...I get that. I'm just wondering if we're over-thinking this. The sump is designed to be where dirty oil is collected, then sent through the pump to the filter. The pump isn't a precision assembly, like say a bearing, and that dirty sump oil is pumped to the filter to get cleaned. Would even significant amounts of debris in the oil harm the pump? I agree it would be better to have cleaner oil returned from the frame/breather if possible, but is it really a problem worth engineering another filter or catch can that could introduce unintended issues such as lack of flow as discussed above, leaks, other? Just posing the question... If one is really concerned about debris in the breather/frame, perhaps do we think the suggestions about cleaning it as well as possible might be the best and simplest approach. Then just use the stock configuration?

The catch can sounds very cool (I fitted one to my Jaguar XJR for slightly different reasons), but doesn't the oil filter really do this for you anyway?

..... yep, sorry to hear about that, but at least you know why. That's a much better place to be in than wondering. It'll be a cool bike once back together

Yep, I do, and that's what I typically do as well. But I was curious about these as it gets completely out of your way if working on many things at once. With the shop stand and platform, it's harder to work on some of the middle of the bike. So was just curious if anyone has tried one of the head stock stands. Seems clever.

We've had tons of workshop stand threads over the years, and the general consensus is that the factory mid/rear stand works pretty well as general "center stand" solution for keeping the bike vertical and raising the rear wheel. And it actually keeps mostly out of the way. But lifting the front isn't handled very well, even with the factory "spool" that comes with the workshop stand. There are a lot of universal front fork lifts, but that doesn't allow one easy access to the wheel, forks and brakes. So I was wondering if anyone has found a front "headstock pin" or "triple tree" stand that works with the Le Mans, it's fits the head stock bolt, clears the fairing, etc? An example of what I'm referring to: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-Motorcycle-Triple-Headlift-Kawasaki/dp/B00CX7L1LA

Only 300 miles total? Was it never hardly ridden, in a time capsule?

To be clear, you're saying you like the m-Blaze pins, correct? i ask because we also took a sidestep talking about the Kellermann light units This looks like the modules you were referring to: https://nuut.ca/

no, the PC map can not accurately be translated to the 15M fuel maps. The rpm breakpoints don't match and the translation of the %-TPS indices to the °TPS will not work either, due to insufficient granularity of the %-TPS breakpoints and the lower number of breakpoints. Cheers Meinolf That's what I was afraid of, so one can't just dispose of the PCIII if you have a custom PCIII tune to accommodate aftermarket modifications like exhaust, intake, crossover, etc. So that then raises the question of how one would tune a 15M with Guzzidiag alone (no PCIII) to accommodate those modifications if you don't have a dyno, lambda probe, etc. I'd love to look into that at some point to eliminate the additional complexity of the PCIII.

I don't recall if this is covered in the Guzzidiag thread(s), but your comment about the PCIII begs a question I've wondered about.... Indeed since one can tweak the map in the 15M directly now with Guzzidiag, I've wondered how one might translate a PCIII/Dyno tune map into correct settings within the 15M and then be able to lose the PCIII. Since a lot of owners have modifications such airbox removal, aftermarket exhausts, etc a PCIII was needed years ago to fool the OEM 15M ECU into running right. No need to fool the 15M anymore since we can change it, but we'd need to know how to make similar modifications to the 15M map I assume based on what was done via tuning the PCIII.

I'm still a fan of this retro logo, and someone's comment about perhaps adding some detail in the bike's silhouette that maybe highlights the MG engine cylinder? Did anything ever come of this? BTW, as a related aside, that "cartoon" V11 Sport t-shirt I had years ago that I mentioned earlier in the thread can be found here, and is by Koolart: http://www.koolart.co.uk/bikes/ http://www.koolart.co.uk/product/vii-sport-white/ They have a huge selection of apparel they will print the image (copyright Koolart) upon. I've also asked them if they might consider adding a Le Mans version since that might be an easy modification to the existing V11 Sport illustration, understanding the V11 merchandise is probably a tiny fraction of their overall sales.

Absolutely a thumbsup on a platform jack, for a myriad of things. I don't actually have a proper automotive platform jack, but many many years ago I acquired something nearly equivalent; which is the installation lift for a Cisco 12000 router. It is essentially a one-time use item that came with the packaging to help one lift and line that monster up with the rack mounts. I don't know what its load limits are, but I know it starts to slightly deform when lifting one corner of my Jaguar, so that would be a bit over 1000lbs. But it is great for lifting various things, and I saved it from recycling specifically for lifting motorcycles. A platform lift specifically for motorcycles would be better because the 12000 lift is really wide, very heavy, and takes a while to lift with since it has a screw lift, but it's pretty good for free. I still may get a real one someday.

Ha no kidding.... what a great metaphor! I could "collect" tools forever if I had the space, money, and especially a way to organize and display them ...even tools I don't need right now. I just think tools are so fascinating, like static future puzzle solvers.

Agree I'm no expert on cam design or application, so if an expert tells me (and he did ) that a given cam is better for everyday street riding, versus another cam is really only good for high RPM racing, I'll go with the street recommendation for a street bike every time.

So I wonder if the Speedhut fuel level gauge would function if wired serially into the V11 fuel warning light circuit? And if so, for 2003+ tanks senders, would the incandescent bulb have to remain in the circuit? https://www.speedhut.com/instructions/2in_and_258in_rev_fuel_level_instructions.pdf https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18919

Another thread I think I could have contributed to at the time, but maybe this is helpful to someone who comes across it later that is curious about tank capacities and options to recover the fuel trapped on one side of the tank for pre and post 2002 style tanks: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2459&hl=tank&page=1

FYI, looks like the Speedhut line has been discontinued: https://www.speedhut.com/about-speedhutgauges.html I don't know if they Legacy or Revolution are more expensive, but it appears they are the replacements and more "feature rich"? You decide ...but it appears that both the Legacy and Revolution are essentially the same thing (the speedos are identical), just with different sweep coverage and some warning lighting differences. Is the following new?

Thanks! If I win the national lottery this evening, I'll buy me a V11, and fly the bike and me business class to the States to meet you all! Jaap, have you been back out to the US since that RV tour you did about 15 years ago where I met you for dinner out in San Francisco?

Check out your reflection in the chrome bolt! So, "weekend after Labor Day", which makes it September 7 & 8. Well, in theory that's possible, and is certainly plenty of notice. I'll pencil it in

Yep, that "works" ...and I think it looks better with the tail green, and the tank/side-panels still breaking it up with silver. That green looks great in that light.

Right, I was looking at using the DF units to possibly eliminate the main tail light.

That looks sharp I'm typically not a huge fan of the V11 chin spoiler, but the uniform green on the main fairing and chin spoiler make a line that makes the V11 look like it has a complete front fairing treatment. So I think that when the front fairing and chin spoiler are a matching color, but the rest of the bike is another color, this really stands out and works aesthetically

Thanks for the additional information. It seems like MG would have used the EV style tubeless spoked wheels for the Vintage, or is there some disadvantage to the EV wheels?

...which is why I don't even bother anymore. The old can multi-capacitor electrolytics in the power supply filter circuit are what we're primarily talking about, and there was a time where one really only had two options to replace them: 1) Find a NOS can capacitor, but those are almost certainly "dried out" too 2) Replace the can with a board and individual capacitors, or gut the can and pack it with individual capacitors. Option 2 is still very popular to retain the vintage look and use discrete individual high quality capacitors. But one can also now buy reproduction can multi-capacitors that are made on the same tooling as the originals. So to me there really isn't much point in trying to reform these old capacitors, and as you mention that are more likely than not to "pop" later even so. And for the other smaller electrolytic caps throughout a chassis, some/many might be candidates for non-electrolytics as a replacement, and even if you have to keep some electrolytic capacitors (usually due to rating, electrolytics can handle much more power) there are lots on the market of very high quality like Panasonic and Silmic. Oh, and on the topic of popping electrolytic capacitors, many (I'd venture to say MOST) failures in cheapo electronics these days such as in computers and LCD TVs are due to very cheap electrolytic capacitors leaking(popping). If one is handy with a soldering iron, you can probably fix these for a few dollars with better quality capacitors (105C rated is best) that will likely never leak again. Here are photos and descriptions of a popped and leaking junk capacitors: http://www.capacitorlab.com/visible-failures/

Yeah, I bought two sets of generic signals from eBay over the last few months just to do some experimentation, and I was highly unimpressed just as I had been many years ago when installing some aftermarket signals on my FJ1200. I gave them away to a friend to use on his go-kart. But there are some very nice, and expensive, manufacturers out there such as: https://www.kellermann-online.com/en/products I'm considering these for the rear: https://www.kellermann-online.com/en/products/bullet-1000/ https://www.kellermann-online.com/en/products/bullet-1000/bullet-1000-df/47/bullet-1000-df You can usually tell if these products are going to be high quality if they have European road certification. Regarding bar-end lights, I don't know that the m-Blaze Pin is the right solution. However Motogadget does make these: https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-blaze-cone.html https://motogadget.com/shop/en/m-blaze-disc.html Guzzi Tech sells the Motogadget products: https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/electronics/products/motogadget-m-blaze-disc-turn-signals-copy https://gtmotocycles.com/collections/electronics/products/motogadget-m-blaze-pin-turn-signals