al_roethlisberger

Echoing the "taste" comment, I would also suggest doing a search on this topic and the various feedback on the handling advantages/disadvantages of the thinner versus wider tire/rim. I believe the general consensus was that the wider tire was more of an aesthetic benefit, while the original narrower Sport rim/tire contributed to the quicker handling(as well as shorter frame). Some folks have tried different profile tires on the later(wide tire) bikes to regain that faster turn-in. Al

All the 2002 LeMans have the CF instrument mount/dash. If a 2002 LeMans doesn't, it is the odd man out I don't recall if 2003+ "base" LeMans continued to have the CF dash. Al

Same here, that's the only permanent fix. MG used a multi-coat "candy" sort of finish that can only be polished so far before cutting through the candy red into the gray/silver undercoat. Al

Since the Tenni had the same stock suspension as the first generation V11 Sport models, any of the upgrades available for any V11 Sport variant will work. Rear shock replacements are generally a same-for-same bolt on affair, but some front suspension changes may require modifications to axles, bearings, etc. It just depends. I'd do a search on the main forums for "shocks", "forks", and also check out Guzzi Tech to see what Todd is currently offering. Al

What about having them anodized a different color? Anodizing is just "dyeing" of the aluminum oxide. I don't see why a quality anodizing shop couldn't strip the old coating and re-anodize. Perhaps an option? Al

Wow, an almost EXACT 5 year "pause" in a thread.... that must be a record

How did it work out? Did it "re-blacken" the finish appreciably? Al

Use a quality epoxy meant for flex/rubber and it should hold for a long time. It may shake loose again one day, but it is an easy fix. Mine have been "glued" for years. Al

Yep, the issue was with anodizing..... man that was an adventure some years ago. The cast parts such as valve covers and "pork chops" would turn some black-ish mess in many cases due to impurities. The only issue I had with powder coating wasn't unique to MG, but just in general. Remember that powder coat is significantly thicker than liquid paint. So be sure to either mask off the areas or trim/remove the powder coat that are mating surfaces. Otherwise some of your tolerances will be off and it may be hard to reassemble. Plus the powder coat will wear, then you'll have parts loosening up. And also, perhaps obviously, if you plan to have any machining done, do that before. I have a couple knicks I had to touch-up when we tapped out one of the bosses and had a little SNAFU. Al

If you have a 2003 V11 Sport Naked, it is an '02 "spec" bike, but is a 2003 model. They look just like other V11 Sports but have the fuzzy black engine paint. For some reason Guzzi sold/built the remaining 2002 spec stock as the "2003 Sport Naked" and yes it has all the 2002 bits, not 2003+ improvements, except perhaps for some minor components. So it should have the external fuel system, fuzzy paint, 1st gen Marz shocks, etc. But it is still a good bike and any of those features can be retrofitted at a later date if you so desire. The fuzzy paint is a bit harder to "replace", but still do-able. It sounds like someone has already started tinkering based on your details about exhaust and crossover. As far as the carbon canister, yep, just remove it, route the vent/drain from the tank under the bike, and plug or "bridge" the vacuum ports on the TBs. And the fuel pressure regulator reference port came from the factory unplugged/open. You don't need to do anything with that. There were some threads, one rather long if I recall, about the potential for using that port as a reference if you are interested, but again from the factory it is left disconnected. Good luck with the bike! Al

HOLY COW.... 47 pages for a head temp sensor I actually would like to know the ideal reliable street setup for this once my plastic holder finally bites the dust one day, but can we summarize? Drop me an IM when it's settled Al

Hrmm, perhaps. I'd check my linkage first though It's far easier. Just an observation.... If you have replaced your spring twice and haven't either reduced the size of the boss, got a new side-cover with the correctly sized boss, or now have a spring with a larger boss "hole", then you're probably going to run into this again. Al

I agree, when the shift return spring breaks, you can not shift into another gear. So I'm suspecting something else such as the linkage being out of adjustment, which does happen. As an aside, the problem with shift spring failure is something of a misnomer(although that IS the result). The problem isn't the spring, the problem is with a mis-sized shift return spring boss being too big, causing the spring to bind and break from fatigue. Even a larger/heftier spring can likely still break, although I believe there were some springs made with a larger boss "hole" diameter. That can fix the problem or getting a new transmission side plate with the correctly sized boss, or milling an oversized one down to the correct size will also fix it. I've not heard of any 04+ bikes, and not even if I recall any 03(not 02 spec 03s) having the bad side plate, so I'd be surprised. Good luck! Al

What a shame. MPH has always been such an official and grass-roots supporter of MG products.... it's a real blow to the community and brand. Sorry to hear their hand was forced. I'm certain they made this decision under duress. Al

Very cool and helpful post Greg. Some years back I tried to open my cush drive just to check and see if the pucks were lubricated since this is a well known oversight from the factory, but I too found at least one button head bolt to strip immediately and left it for "later".... and later never came I think I'll be giving the bike a good full maintenance this Spring, and this will be on my list as I have always considered the lash from engine braking to be be a bit harsh, and this may be part of the issue. This would be a great FAQ addition. Thanks, Al

http://www.riderschoiceusedbikewarehouse.com .... in Sunnyvale, CA has Scura for sale on consignment with about 7700 miles, advertised as "all stock". Al

I am looking for a complete V11 engine oil pan and sump spacer assembly that attach to the bottom of the engine case. The bubbling paint warantee replaced the actual engine cases, but not other covers/parts like the timing chain cover, sump, and sump spacer. So I'd like to get another sump and spacer to strip and have powder coated for when I install my sloppage sheet. I'm hoping that someone has something set aside after having installed a deep V sump or similar. I'm not logging in to the forum very often these days, so a PM or email is the best way to reach me. Thanks, Al

You guys are lucky to have close access to Mike Rich's shop. I'd love to have him do a final tune on all his parts I had put in the engine during the case replacement back in San Jose. The bike runs fine, but it would just be nice to have it come full circle Al

As already mentioned, the only real solution is to take it to a good paint shop. They can match it. I had my 2003 black tank painted this way to match my champagne color, perfect. Al

You can get the insulation from your local "hot rod" shop, as many engine customizers use the shielding. The aluminized shielding is sold in sewn tubes and flat sheets, and even a "kit" for shielding a starter or fuel pump. It really isn't very expensive. Another source is "Summit Racing" which you can find online. I relocated my pump on top of the spine and shielded all lines, pump, and filter and seemed to eliminate the vapor lock. But my original 2002 tank developed a defect soon after and I replaced it with a 2003 model before I really had a chance to test it long term. But based on the comments by bad, I suspect using the shielding alone may help most people. I'd give it a try first, as it only takes a few minutes to install. Another field solution might be to install a purge valve in the supply line. You could then open this valve in the field during a VL event, and purge vapor and fuel onto the ground to clear the line. This would simplify the otherwise irritating problem of breaking out some tools to remove the supply line from the petcock. Just a thought. Al

I've always liked the noise, and the oddball looks I've received from other motorcyclists... or even folks in cars while the rock crusher is in action Honestly, I think it is distinctive

Ah, it's that time of year again.... much like the 4 year gap in the debate over our(USA) electoral college(just wait, it'll start again soon ) .... once the temps start to climb, the Vapor Lock threads return Although I spent more than a fair amount of time working on this problem before finally getting a 2003 spec tank(which did solve it ultimately), I never did come up with a sure fired solution. I do think that insulating the fuel lines, pump, and maybe even filter are a good insurance policy. But I can't say that under the most extreme conditions of heat, and perhaps altitude, this won't still happen. One "field solution" that comes to mind might be to install a purge valve in the fuel supply line that one could easily press/open to evacuate pressure/fuel onto the ground in these odd situations. Then one wouldn't have to fight with tools around a hot engine to try to work the fuel supply line off of the petcock. Just a thought... Al

... ala Capt. Nemo's various under engine exhaust mods, although all of his were 2->1 I believe. Al

It's paint. I know this for two reasons: 1) I've seen the pork-chops and valve covers chipped. Anodizing doesn't "chip", and when they were chipped, one could clearly see the candy red paint layer, and the gray/silver undercoat layer. This unique anodized-look is really just a multi-layer candy coat paint job, and I assume the factory chose paint over anodizing because of reason #2 below.... 2) When I had my pork-chops and valve-cover powder coated red, I first looked into anodizing them, which like many I assumed was how the OEM red color was produced. Upon taking them to a highly regarded industrial anodizing company in San Jose, I found that both were made of an aluminum alloy of a marginal cast quality with high foreign content that would turn any anodizing black and blotchy. It just wasn't possible to anodize them in red, or another bright clear color. ...so I had them powder coated, which of course really is just "dry" paint My pork chops also faded and chipped within a year, even though the bike was rarely left out in the Sun or abused. It's just poor quality paint. Al