al_roethlisberger

At least four locations were used if you count the final "in tank" solution from 2003 onward, and assume any had the fuel pump on top of the spine. The original shop manual illustrates the pump on top of the spine, although I personally haven't seen any delivered this way. Perhaps early models were. Most up through 2002 had the arrangement you've observed, with the filter on top of the spine, and the pump slung low on the left side of the spine. But a few bikes, such as Jaap's, had their fuel pump "out front" in a similar fashion to a Centauro, where we find the oil-cooler fitted on most V11s. In those cases the oil cooler is moved down a bit, covering the alternator cover. And again, starting in 2003(but not in the 2002-spec 2003 "Sport Naked" model), we moved to the final in-tank pump/filter module which finally solved the vapor-lock issue and really cleaned up the plumbing, as well as giving a marginally larger fuel capacity. Al

Yeah yeah .... with fuel prices the way they are, I think you might find shipping a little expensive John, unless of course you want to fly over and ride it back to Louisiana But naw, the bike is getting put back on the road as we speak, and I'm still going to give my 110mile/day commute a try on it. We'll see. Al

19%, 2 points ahead of HD

Being a "candy" paint finish, it really is hard to ever get touch-ups to match unfortunately. I gave up and just had mine powdercoated a candy red Al

I've never seen the vent port on the regulator hooked to anything(hose) on a V11 Sport variant. A few years ago, I too looked into if it required(or would benefit) from sensing manifold vacuum, but it seemed this wasn't necessary for our bikes. Al

Absolutely awesome looking wheels, but as we've all(mostly) said every time someone brings them up.... oh my lord they are expensive!! It ought to be against forum rules to tease us so... unless you are a wealthy philanthropist and plan to buy a set for everyone Seriously though, I wonder how the weight compares. A lot of laced wheels are pretty heavy, as are the stock wheels. So the benefit may only be aesthetic for $3k. I'd still take a set if someone offered them though! If they were closer to $1k, it might be feasible. Al

If you change the wheel on your first-gen Sport, you are likely going to change the 'quick' handling characteristics you like so much. It has been bemoaned here by many that Aprilia went to the wider wheel starting in 2002 just for aesthetics, as along with the changed frame geometry(longer), the wider wheel slowed steering response according to many. In fact, many here have thought about fitting the narrower wheel, or have looked for tires with profiles that help offset the change. I've heard that the Pirellis tend to help get the 02+ bikes closer to the same flickability as the earlier bikes. I personally would not change the rear wheel width. If you do get an aftermarket wheel, look for one with an integrated/included cush-drive. Some do not, and for the street, that probably isn't a good option. I *think*(if my memory serves) that PVM did include a cush-drive. Good luck, and glad to hear you are enjoying the bike. It's also been very interesting to hear your comparisons with the other types of bikes you've ridden for years. Al

For all this talk of modified TPS settings, are all the other recommended process and settings(such as bleed screws) still the same as we've recommended in the "how to" posts? I ordered the VDSTS so I can check/adjust the trim and TPS voltage, so that should help simplify things. Al

I never had the electric petcock, as most 2002+ bikes didn't, and many still experienced VL as did I many times. I don't think the petcock has anything to do with it, although it has its own problems when the wires/connector start to fail Al

Welcome back Jason... and V11 I was just wondering about you the other day when I was posting something and referenced an old thread. I guess this might be the year of "come backs"(you and I) Hopefully I'll have mine back on the road(no crash, just stored) very soon. The garage is almost finished, so then I can get to the bike. Al

Here are the threads with the pics: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=disconnects http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=disconnects ... saved you a few key-strokes Al

Because this is a pressurized(pumped) system, and your connectors are directly off the pump, you will only see a little fuel come out of the lines heading to the injector loop. But the tank will not "drain" and as such there is no petcock to shut off. With the 2003+ "in tank" fuel pump bikes, the vapor lock demon seemed to have been remedied, so your fuel line being close to the head isn't likely a "problem". But I tend to be pretty conservative when it comes to fuel+heat, so if it were me I'd try to re-route the line just a bit so that it at least doesn't get damaged from rubbing the head. If you are really worried about heat, you can buy some inexpensive heat reflective tubing from your local "hot rod" shop and put that around the lines. If you do a search of the forum I have a photo or two posted showing how to remove the quick-connections from a couple years back. I remember when I first retrofitted the 2003 tank, I too was nearly exasperated with those connections, and almost replaced them. But once you've taken them off a few times, they are really easy to use. It really is "technique".... well, and it is true that if they haven't been removed in a long while, they are a little more reticent to let go Al

On average I consistently get 120-130 miles before the idiot light comes on, and that generally leaves me 30-40 miles until "dry". So, that's about 160ish miles per tank around town. On longer constant speed level highway trips, this seems to inch up to about 140-150 miles before the light comes on, with a similar range increase on the "reserve". So on an ideal day, you can get about 200 miles on a tank in this mode, but that's probably pushing your luck. I'd say 180ish miles on a tank is a reasonable expectation even in this case. "High performance" mods and other tweaks may totally throw all of these figures out the window though Al

He's right, YMMV.... We had(have?) a fella here on the forum that bought a Rosso(or maybe it was a Nero, I forget) Corsa out of Louisiana a couple years ago, and brought it back home to California..... and he was really put through the ringer. Typically once the 7500+ mile barrier is passed, the CA DMV will just stamp your paperwork and take your money. But every so often you'll get someone that wants proof that the vehicle retains its factory emissions equipment, etc... and in the case of the MG product, they apparently have limited information on what that really constitutes. So again, they can choose to either just "stamp your passport and send you on your way" or really run you through the grinder. The fella above had to get a letter from MGNA, and find a replacement swingarm emissions sticker to prove the bike was road legal. It seems that the prior owner had removed the hugger, and the sticker, as many of us have done since it is so attractive There really is no guaranteed process to avoid red-tape, but I would recommend getting the odometer fixed to reflect the correct mileage(a power drill comes to mind) or get a letter. But just avoid volunteering any more information than required, as that seems to just make things worse.... counter-intuitively As far as the actual equipment, I bought my LeMans in California, but it seemed apparent that all the bikes in North America had the same emissions gear. So if yours is intact, it shouldn't be a problem. But honestly, I'm not sure the CA DMV would know the difference between what equipment should or shouldn't be there(except maybe obvious additions like exhausts), and only seem to care if your "documentation"(the sticker) ... again, just to satisfy "red tape" Good luck! Every experience is a new one with the CA DMV! Al

I've heard of several folks crashing from side-stands being extended and riding away, including Gil here on the forum. He wrecked his 2002 LeMans within a month of owning it if I recall Now, if one just remembers how cool they are looking, making every move to mount the bike an exaggerated procedure with lots of flourish.... then remembering to kick the stand up like spurring your horse is hard to forget. Oh, and don't forget the silk scarf Al

Thanks John, that was an excellent description! It sounds like your controls may be perfect, and negate the need for modified bars... which I'd like to leave stock if possible. I bought a set of Centauro controls a loooong while back as well, but never had a chance to try to get them fitted. So I'll probably be eBay'ing them soon Thanks again for all the patient and thorough replies to my flurry of email questions. It is much appreciated. Once the finances straighten out, I'll let you know... as these controls are definitely high on my list. Al

Thanks for the feedback! I currently have the stock bars though... and based on your description, I wonder if John's controls are going to put me in a weird long reach, but upright position given my dimensions? I have Paul's bar risers in a box, and may fit them at some point, but am just wondering. Anyone with my height have John's controls fitted? Al

Question on ergos and folks that don't have "long inseams" and are over 6' tall: I've seen it mentioned several times about John's Motratech kit that it is great for folks with longer inseams and over 6' tall. I however am 5' 8" tall, with a 30-31" inseam. I find the stock position too constrictive for long distance riding or just bumbling around town, hence putting on the Buell pegs. Those are still a little high, but are OK... but I don't like how far they push my feet out from the bike, or the "not quite right" alignment with the controls they produce. I've been emailing John about his controls featured in this thread, and he's been very helpful. I noticed that John's Motratech units seem very similar to the Centauro controls, which are quite a bit forward as well as lowered. My question is really if anyone with my build, 5'8" and 30ish inch inseam, has ridden the Motratech or seemingly similar Centauro type controls and how that works for you? I know the pegs on my old FJ1200 were much lower and forward and I liked that position much better. Thanks, Al

I've seen it mentioned several times about John's kit that it is great for folks with longer inseams and over 6' tall. I however am 5' 8" tall, with a 30-31" inseam. I find the stock position too constrictive for long distance riding or just bumbling around town, hence putting on the Buell pegs. Those are still a little high, but are OK. I noticed that John's Motratech units that they seem very similar to the Centauro controls, which are quite a bit forward as well as lowered. My question is really if anyone with my build has ridden the Motratech or seemingly similar Centauro type controls and how that works for you? Thanks, Al

So, does anyone yet have a photo of a typical LeMans mounting location(and describes HOW) that works with the earlier models that have the instrument cluster mounted to the triple-tree? Thanks, Al

Perhaps too early to tell... but do we have any "long term" reliability feedback on the Omrons yet? Do we know the typical "lifespan" of Dan's replacement relays? I've had mine now for about 5 years I guess. I only ask because the Siemens were, as noted, notoriously unreliable... and Dan's replacement relays seem to have held up quite well from what I can tell. So is there an advantage to switch out Dan's with the Omrons, or is this really just an option to replace the original Siemens? I guess the "sealed" Omron versions would be one advantage, as I think I recall that some folks did have issues with relays deteriorating due to condensation... although I'm not certain. ...just rambling my various thoughts out-loud Sorry Al

....echoing the "it all depends" mantra here Dyno's really ought not to be used as a competitive device(although we're all likely guilty of doing so ) .... but instead a tool to measure the results of your tweaking. And to be useful, just like any other "gauge", one should stick with the same dyno for subsequent tests. In my case, after quite a bit of tweaking, I believe my max rear wheel HP was around 86, with 65ish ft/lb torque. I'm not going to say it is impossible, but I don't think you are going to find many(any?) V11 based bikes with mild to moderate modifications that are going to produce much more than mid-80s HP at the *rear wheel*. And even with that in mind, those figures are peak, which really doesn't mean a much in the real world... since we don't all ride at "peak" all the time Look to produce a good flat torque graph in combination with a good balance of top HP. You'll probably be happier with those results than if one goes for highest HP. Al

Thanks, I remembered and thought about that as soon as I clicked the "Add Reply" button I've dropped John an email. Cheers, Al

I don't see these still listed on Motobits website for the V11. Do we know if they are still available? The list price for most other models seems to be around $300. Is this what they cost for the V11? I have had the Buell pegs for a while, and never have been 100% happy with how they position my toes relative to the brake/shift. Al

Hrmm, looks interesting: http://www.vaguzzi.com/?a=meets I don't know though, a lot of things are in uncertain territory right now. Denise(my wife) found what seemed to be a good job doing the bookkeeping for a local paving company, only to find in the first week of sorting out their mess of bank records.... that they have NO MONEY She hasn't even been paid yet, so we're hoping that works out. And I did find that my 6 month contract is going to be resubmitted for another 6 months, so that's good news. But there's still no guarantee and I'll still need to keep an eye out for something permanent. And don't get me started on taxes following the last year of forced savings withdrawals due to the layoff *sigh* I'm hoping that some of these things will sort out by summer, so maybe events like that rally might be possible. It's been an interesting 18 months. Al