al_roethlisberger

We've seen it before, but usually someone "borrows" an image of a real person's bike to use it for a scam of some sort, especially via eBay So when I was browsing through eBay today for a simple search of "Guzzi", the following auctions made me do a "double take": http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Moto-Guzzi-...emZ230235651406 Shown as a "reference" photo, is my bike, about 4 years ago, sitting in our old backyard in San Jose, CA. I think the photo was in the Pashnit article. He's got the photo in about 5 current ads. It's not a big deal of course, but it was funny to run across. But it does bring back memories. That photo was taken before I finished stripping the back wheel, and the new 2003 tank was installed Al

I'm still around.... just checking-in every so often. Been really busy at work, although the contract ends in about 45 days. And on the weekends, been working on the garage doors. I still haven't tried the ride to work, but now the weather is pretty nice(has been for weeks). So I should probably give it a go pretty soon. Al

I have the 620x9 from Mike Rich. He seemed to think it was a good fit for those looking some mid-range power, without having to sink the valves. Al

Thanks guys. I've got a new pair of winter overpants on the way that should pair well with my old Tour Master cold weather jacket. It's not too bad here in the winter, but it does get in the 20-30s every so often. Rain is currently rare(we are in a drought), and snow is something that makes news So we'll see how it goes. The Volvo has to go though. It simply is too much $$ in monthly payments and insurance Al

OK, please, not another "oil thread" in the sense that I'm asking who makes the "best oil" But I am curious what experience some of you have with running the bike in Winter temps, say 20-50F, and if another weight oil has worked out better than another. Thanks! Al

Thanks all! Well, my current contract(with the NC Dept of Transportation ironically So the V11 isn't condemned quite yet Along with other cost cutting measures, I'll be selling my current vehicle(Volvo wagon) as I am just piling on the miles with this commute, and that's about the only thing it gets used for. As a replacement I was looking at a high mileage Toyota/Honda type of commuter, but in today's economic climate... apparently everyone else is too. So they are like GOLD. So I thought, "hey, I've got an economical vehicle sitting in the garage" Plus I don't know what the future holds in 3 months, so buying another vehicle is dicey. But I'm just not certain I am up to a 110 mile commute EVERY DAY, and during the winter... rain, ice, and COLD I've done my share of cold and wet riding, but daily could be much, especially after a long day at the office. I dunno But I'm going to give it a test next week I think. We'll see if my out of shape body is up to it, if my carpal tunnel can take vibrating every day for 45 minutes each way, and the weather isn't too unbearable. It should require a minimal investment of at least a pair of new riding pants that match my expanded waistline! And if it isn't too bad, maybe I'll pick up a set of those nice relaxed foot controls some of you have fitted. That might make the daily commute more bearable. So we'll see. Al

But they're sooooo purty when just oiled up and red Wow, is it just me or does that sound awfully obscene! I had K&Ns for a while, but have the foam filters on now as they fit the velocity stacks I fitted last year. I suspect that the potential damage is in direct proportion to how dusty/dirty an environment one rides. But I agree that the obvious generalized trade-off for higher air flow means less filtration. Al

I have MR pistons, and so far no problems. I can't really comment on before/after though, as the bike was in the shop for so long during the "upgrade"(during case swap) that it was like riding a new bike when I got it back... I swear I can't speak for FBF, but I can say that my "customer experience" with Mike Rich was superior. He was always happy to chat and answer questions and concerns, and explain his products. He was also quick to tell me when spending more $$ wasn't really going to get me what I wanted. I really appreciated that, as he certainly could have sold me a number of other "go fast gizmos" but tried to steer me toward the products that aligned well with what I said I was trying to achieve. And, when the shop broke several rings during their "learning curve" of installing the new pistons, Mike sent them new ones, no charge. Even if you aren't certain you want/need new pistons, cam, porting, etc.... calling Mike may be a good idea to help you identify what is a good fit for your needs. Like Pete Roper, he seems to be very pragmatic and honest about real benefits versus fashion. Al

Yeah, looking back on some tires I've ridden on.... apparently "quite a long time" On my old Seca, I rode it for a year on the tires I bought on it, which had some stress cracks from age. Probably a bad idea, but I didn't really know better. And I rode a set on my FJ1200 for waaaaay too long, hitting cords at one point on the rear. Also dumb But they never failed Al

BOO Well, I would say that I drop in fairly frequently, but just don't post as much anymore... but that would be disingenuous The truth is that I just did a Google on my name, and the first match returned was this thread. How coincidental! So here's the deal, I've just been completely unplugged from riding and the bike for about 2 years now. We did move to NC two years ago, and prior to the move I had just gotten the bike back from being in the shop in San Jose after several months for a case swap. So I was already sorta out of the habit. Then we moved, and you know how that can be. I had no local friends that rode, and was really consumed with the new job locale, our house hunt(we rented first), and just getting settled. Then after dealing with trying to find a lot to build a house or shopping just about every weekend for a house, we bought one and moved again within the year. The house we bought was a fixer-upper, and didn't have a working garage(the doors and windows had long since rotted off), so I continued to store the LeMans up in Cary while we were 30 miles in Sanford. So again, not too much riding. Then we lived the next 7 months in our basement while we fixed up the upstairs, and I finally got the garage put together and rode the bike down. That was this last autumn. .... oh, and I got laid off during all of this. So I spent every day working on the house we just bought, or looking for a job. I mean, how much fun can a person ask for! I tell ya Perhaps riding the bike would have been the best therapy during this whole 18 month ordeal, but alas... it just didn't work out that way. So I start the bike up, run it around the block every so often, and I have gone for a handful of brief rides. But it just hasn't worked out, and to be honest, as nice as NC is(and we love it here), the roads aren't Northern CA unless I ride 3 hours west, and even then . That's a hard adjustment as well. And the Guzzi community is also more sparse. And then there's the family aspect. When I started riding, I was single and care free. Who cared if I became roadkill, other than me of course! But now, I also tend to worry that no matter how careful I am.... well, my 3, 10, and 13 year old make me consider my responsibility there. And finally, times are tough financially right now for us. It's amazing how things can go from "great" to "scary" in just a year or two, but it can happen. So although I do still have the bike, I have been wrestling with selling it since last summer, and I think I am pretty close to coming to terms with it this spring. I'm not sure how much it is worth these days, but every bit helps, and my current contract job ends in 3 months with no guarantees. I've got a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.... not to mention $$ in that bike, but I also realize that it should be ridden, not sit in a garage So we'll see. Al ....and hey, I updated one of the FAQs "recently"

I've wondered if anyone has put the late-model "front crossover" headers on an earlier bike. I wonder if they will physically just bolt on, if there is any advantage, and if the ECU or other tuning would then need to get tweaked. Al

Excellent idea... now exactly what torque value is one "HORSE" so I can update the FAQ? al

Oil Filter Installation and Tightening FAQ ******************************** Introduction: ------------------ It has been discovered that several examples exist where the oil filter has backed off during engine operation on late model Moto Guzzis with internal oil filters. Several theories exist regarding the potential cause, which run the gamut from inferior product to improper installation. As this is a critical, and near instantaneously disastrous failure, a FAQ suggesting reliable installation procedures is warranted. Moto Guzzi UFI Filter and Alternatives: --------------------------------------------------- UFI: 2328700 Purolator: L10241 $5-6 or ML16822 ("stock replacement") $12-13 Research: -------------- There are different schools of thought regarding hand tightening the filter, or using a wrench(torque or otherwise). But it seems clear that the following research indicates the degree to which the filter should be snugged regardless of installation method. Also, as a safeguard, it has been suggested that the use of a large metal band hose clamp around the filter can prevent the filter from backing off. See the link below from "Big Daddy" for details and photos on this topic. The following research was provided by Ryland3210(John): Filter cover tools: There may be a tool for the cover in the tool kit. "Oil filter removal tips, Going through the "manhole cover", by Steve G.: "I bought a 27mm [or more easily found imperial equivalent] bolt, and two nylock nuts for it. I cranked the 2 nuts tightly together on one end, and use the bolt head to go into the filter access 'plate'. $5cdn. Not the slightest increase possibility of cross threading the plate compared to the M.G. tool. Don't fool around with the wrong filter wrench. Get the proper number of 'flutes', or flat parts that the filter has. A fram filter of the same size and fitting, the number of flutes are less than on an OEM UFI filter. A filter wrench regularly found in North America has a flute number different from the UFI. You will have to buy the wrench from a Motion Pro outlet, probably your nearest bike shop, where I got mine. Ciao, Steve G. Anonymous suggestion: "Alternative: A 27 mm nut tack welded to 12" of steel bar stock cost about $3 at y'er local welding shop and works like a Champ V11 Forum Topics: -------------------------- Oil Filter Failure And Tips Thread Big Daddy Pictorial Using Hose Clamp To Secure Filter FAQ Administrative Contact: -------------------------------------- Please feel free to contact this FAQ's administrator via Forum Private Message (email messages do not reach me at this time) to submit new information or suggest corrections. Ryland3210

What's the UFI part number, and can someone list a couple non UFI alternatives? I am updating the FAQ. Thanks Al

I had a bubble form from up under the finish in my original 2002 tank a couple years ago.... which was replaced under warrantee. I thought it was a paint issue, but now I wonder Al

Yep, just remove the bolts holding the fairing to the subframe, which includes the front turn indicator mounts, heads, and mirrors.... then with just a little careful bending, it will lift right off. There is no need to loosen any of the "riveted" bolts that hold the fairing sections together. The headlight is mounted within the fairing subframe and can be removed after the fairing is off, or just left on. After once thinking I had to remove every little bolt to get the fairing off, we all soon learned it is much easier to lift it off in one piece Al

I can't sit through all 8 pages of this thread right now, but a quick question: Where do you put the hose clamp as a safety? Can someone post a drawing or photo of one installed, and show where the clamp would "hit" to keep the filter from spinning? I don't have my bike in this city right now, so can't go look Al EDIT: oops, found the post just a few before, and this link: http://www.motoguzzishop.com/Big_Daddy/Big..._oil_change.htm

Really sorry to hear about this I had my light come on, just flicker really, a few years back.... luckily was right by a gas station, so I immediately pulled over and added oil. But when I had my engine rebuilt(for other reasons), we discovered the crank was scored, and I can only assume it was from this one time. It's really too bad that the oiling system doesn't seem to be more "bullet-proof" on these bikes, since it is obviously so critical Al

I just wish the LeMans "bucket" had room in it for the additional wiring and relays.... although I guess it is a moot point, as one has the fairing to hide it all within, and shield from the elements. I did this a couple years ago, and am much relieved that this load is taken from the stock harness. Good job Al

This is good mojo, and something I too have been meaning to do as well once I get the bike back in my garage and get the heated grips working again. I've "cleaned up" various wiring with nice AMP sealed connectors, but the "terminal stack" is indeed one area that I've wanted to simplify. I only have one or two inline fuses though, so an actual aux fuse block isn't as necessary, but if it combined with the terminal strip, why not I'd also avoid soldered boards, unless designed for an automotive/MC application. But the Centech is from Aerostitch, and has a good review, so?? I'd suspect it is OK. Al

I had a burned/scored main bearing upon my shop doing the case swap too. I had seen my oil light flicker once, and I stopped and luckily was near a gas station and dumped some oil in. I don't know if that was the cause, or some other low oil condition in those first couple years, but it was pretty lame in my opinion to already have a bearing cooked. As a comparison, not that I recommend it, but I nearly ran my old FJ1200 out of oil a couple times due to all the leaks, and it didn't seem to even care. That was 1989 vintage with 80k miles, and it was air cooled as well. Why is the Guzzi so sensitive in comparison? Cheap bearings? Or? Al

Yep, been busy with the move, house renovation, and job search.... and plus the bike has been stored at a friend's house for months, and will remain so for a few more most likely since I don't have a securable garage. So I haven't been checking in here so often lately. al

I've got the CRG levers, and one thing I noticed that I didn't like was on the clutch side. The pull is now so easy with these levers that it almost feels like the hydraulic action is too weak(I have plenty of fluid, no leaks, and all is working fine). And the new levers, with their more bulbous end, now hits my bar ends, slightly marring the inside of the end of the clutch lever. The brake side never pulls all the way to hit though. I don't know if this is just a quirk, or what, but it is slightly annoying. Al

And specific to the headlight, Gary put together a schmatic a couple years back on how to isolate the headlight circuit with a direct path to the battery. I installed this solution and it works great. That is always an option to reduce the load on the stock harness, especially if you have a over wattage bulb. Al

Pete, I am very sorry to hear about your loss, and hope you and your family are coping as well as you can. Don't worry about any hurry for getting me postage info right now. Just focus on you and yours. Once things get back on track, just drop me an email with the total costs and we'll take it from there. I'm pretty busy with our home renovation as it is right now, so there really isn't any hurry. Take your time. Cheers, and best wishes. Al