al_roethlisberger

Who knows how accurate this really is, but I don't think it looks too bad. It's kind-of uninspiring, but not awful looking.

Yeah... got too many other irons in the fire right now Once I have time to really look at this, I'm sure I'll post some pics

JM, Yes, please do resend the instructions to my email: al_roethlisberger@yahoo.com In the meantime, I am curious about the torque specs on all the fasteners. Cheers al

Well, I went out and compared the new bars with the stock height/protrusion of my fork crowns above the triple, and indeed the top edge of new bar clamps would be about 2-3mm taller than the current bar clamps and crown of the fork, leaving that same 2-3mm of clamping area with no purchase. I'm not certain this would be a safety issue per se as the stock bars clamp to a similarly shorter area, but I guess I could drop the front 2-3mm without major impact to handling, and in fact being a 2002 may make it a little better arguably We'll see in a month or two when I get to it. al

I didn't receive any instructions via email I did receive my bars yesterday though. I suspect I will not have time to fiddle with them until this Winter though. We are too caught up with post-move projects and searching for a lot and builder for a new house. I plan to look a bit more closely at them tonight, but two things come to mind(well three): 1) The collar looks a bit tall to fit where the OEM bar clamps are above the triple, but I'll compare them side-by-side. I hope I don't have to raise the forks a bit to get a good purchase. 2) I'm going to need one helluva long hex wrench to fit down the bar tube to tighten it onto it's mount I bet it'll need to be 8 inches long, and I don't think a socket mounted one will fit down the bar. 3) These sure are well made al

This is interesting though.... let us know what you find out

I loved Praque... rented an apt there for about a week... super cheap. If you have a chance, head out to Kutna Hora and see the "Bone Church" al

Yep, sorry to be the bearer of bad tidings... but there are a couple threads(at least) on this topic from a while back... and yes, it has been officially announced that entire V11 Sport line has been discontinued. Apparently though, the factory has quite a few V11 Sport models already manufactured that will undoubtedly trickle out for a while, but there will be no 2006 V11 Sport models. The only thing that hasn't been clear is how many cruiser models they will keep. We've heard one, some, which one?? But the rumor has been that the EV will hang around for a while as you mention. We do know that for 2006, the only models officially in the lineup are the Breva 750, 1100, Griso, and Nevada.... and the one "cruiser". al

From the dealer yesterday: BTW, I didn't notice any performance degredation by going to the pods. Now, that is not to say an airbox equipped bike(lidless or not) won't perform marginally better with all other things being equal, just that using pods didn't make a huge difference. I think Todd Eagan had some dyno data that showed the lidless airbox performed a bit better though. And there are several step-by-step threads.... try a search for "hoses", "pods", etc. Basically you just take off the airbox, bolt on the pods, strap the air-temp sensor to the frame, and plug the vacuum nipples on the TBs. That's it really. Any other vapor recovery hoses, you just junk or run under the bike. Do a search for "emissions", "vapor", or "recovery" for a multitude of threads on that as well. And if you only change one thing, like pods, or lidless, or exhaust... you probably won't NEED to remap. But if you really open up the breathing by doing several things like intake, exhause, crossover... you probably will need to correct your now lean condition via a remap of the ECU or a PCIII.

...these should be about the same length, maybe just a tad longer, than the K&Ns I have fitted now, which are the ones with the angled "throat". So in my case they should look about the same. If I had just the small conical K&Ns that many have fitted to their TBs, I can see where this might be quite a bit different looking. But in my case, it should be OK. Plus I'll probably be putting my side panels back on(I typically prefer them installed), so that will cover the actual filter. I built a custom frame to support the side panels since the airbox is gone. Might be an interesting look. And unless the UNIs flow quite a bit less than the K&N, I doubt it makes too much difference to the map. That's what I was concerned about. I do agree that the red K&Ns do fit the look better though. I guess one could always just find and fit some K&Ns later to these stacks if one wanted to. al

EWWWW.... they finally updated their stock with some that fit the V11!! I've been asking them about ones that would fit since I bought the bike! ....after the V11 line is cancelled of course Anyway, I might have to look into these. Neat. I wonder if the K&N or UNI flow better, or are about the same. Anyone know? al

Holy cow... that bike parked makes all of ours look slow... even in motion Awesome job I am very interested in that tank though. I bet it wouldn't be happy on a LeMans(wouldn't fit with the fairing), but I wonder if the fabricator could take the lines of the stock 2003 tank(has internal fuel pump module) and add some capacity. Through my research I found that if one removes the airbox, you can add almost a gallon of capacity up under the tank, but I don't feel comfortable "welding" on the plastic tank. Some questions: How durable(thick) is the aluminum? I've seen some custom aluminum tanks before, and while nice, the aluminum was very very thin and prone to denting. Since I actually use a tankbag, a thin "lightweight" tank would not be desireable. Do you have a contact for the fabricator of the tank? What did your tank cost? Thanks al

Ahh yes, Mark's famous "joke" bike made from spare parts lying around the shop

Yep, you can buy those today... the light "trippers". But yes, they are illegal. As you mention, they are designed to let emergency vehicles trip red lights to green as they approach, but they work just as well if a civilian bolts one to their dash In fact, their use on non-emergency vehicles got so bad in California that some cities had to upgrade their systems(spend big $$) to scramble the code required to flash the sensors, as all the civilians using their versions were negating traffic flow engineering and any advantage for the emergency vehicles they were designed to support al

I think his came that way from the factory... as a few '02 bikes seemed to be delivered... who knows why. Most of the Tenni's seem to have the fuel-pump "out front" if I recall al

Yep, just to add one more voice to the chorus... the OEM covers on a Rosso/Nero-Corsa should be the "anodized look" red finish(they are actually painted). However, this doesn't necessarily mean it is IMPOSSIBLE that a *-Corsa came with a silver set of covers from the factory Certainly, stranger things have happened But, I suspect this owner swapped his red covers out for silvers for some reason. al

...yep, had my "pork-chops", valve-covers, and some misc bits powder coated with a nice deep candy red that looks great IMHO. But it is correct that most of these parts cannot be anodized due to the poor casting material. The result will be black from impurities. That being said, you may also have some minor bubbles in any powder coated parts from off-gassing of the parts. It is just inevitable. I had my valve-covers coated twice, and we got it better the second time. But there were still some bubbles here and there. Oh, and yes, you can easily get the side plates off without taking the whole bike apart. You simply need to support everything, engine, swingarm, etc... It takes some doing, but it's not impossible =) OH and OH... one last thing. Powder coat is THICK. So you'll either have to mask(not coat) areas that will press fit, or have tight tolerances, or grind the powder coat off afterwards. It's easy enough to do, but even easier to avoid up front with a little planning al

A quick search for "disconnect" returns: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...4&hl=disconnect Also, check out page 2 of this thread with the attached photo and directions: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=retrofit&st=15 I think the "hybrid" answer from both experiences is to gently push the hose toward the quick-connect to relieve some pressure on the fitting, then push the gray collar toward the hose(away from the disconnect) while pulling on the hose away from the fitting. But mine come off easily by just a slight pull on the hose while pushing the gray collar away from the fitting. al

... no specific suggestion on locating a "MG" branded one, but I recommend the "Tank Slapper" brand protector. http://www.thetankslapper.com/

Cracking of the OEM crossover isn't "common" but it has happened. No one is sure why, but many think it is related to stress on the exhaust system... and sometimes the headers crack instead. The Stucchi is pretty indestructable though, and is SS. al

Yeah, I don't know if it is my good luck, but I've done the same thing.... bridged to the ECU case by accident, with no ill effects(not that I'd recommend it). The ground wire should help protect it. I also am curious about the process to tune the MyECU to fit your particular setup. Glad to hear it worked out well

OUCH!! Sorry to hear about your accident Mike! Best wishes and I hope everything heals up OK

Same here... 5'8" with a 30 inch inseam... no problemo touching down with my Corbin, or the Rich Maund seat. I had a to be just a tad more tippy-toed on the stock seat, but it wasn't an issue as compared to other bikes I've owned. The V11 seems pretty close to the ground actually. Now, I do have quite a reach to the bars, and I think I am just going to have to break down and get some risers. al

Yep, upright.... AS IF you had a center stand Or you can do like some have done and figure out what the level on the dipstick should be if over on the side stand, and mark it accordingly al