al_roethlisberger

Yeah, who knows on that old superstition, but I can say that as soon as I started parking my bike "in gear", it stopped acting up So maybe the "rule" should be modified to say:

Just as a clarification.... there is no such thing as a California or "49 State Version" of the MG V11 Sport models(or any other older MG model I would speculate). MG is such a small manufacturer that their low volume allows/limits: 1) They are exempt from some of the more stringent regulations from what I recall, such as a catalyzer 2) They do not have the resources to bother making a non-Cali emissions version, so they all are California compliant(see your swingarm sticker). al :5000

I'm not a big chopper fan(especially with it becoming so chic these last few years)... but I have to say that is kinda cool

....exactly the same place for my failure Right side of timing chest(as sitting on bike), about 1/3 of the way from top, small little protruding piece of gasket... al

Another suggestion.... As is obvious from the posts, it could be a number of things... but other than the odd times it is exhibiting this when not overly hot, my first inclination is to say your valve lash is either incorrectly too tight, or is still set from the factory to North American spec.... and your "Georgia heat" is causing the lash to close up, especially after a hot run. I would have the valve lash checked, and change them to "World specs" or even looser "Raceco specs". Do a search, or check out the Valve Adjustment FAQ for more details. Many of us have had this problem and after sometimes MONTHS of fiddling and going back and forth to the dealer because our bikes wouldn't even idle when good and hot, it simply turned out that the North American valve lash settings(apparently set for EPA noise compliance - we assume) was in fact far tighter than the specs used for decades everywhere else on the planet, and once the engine was good and heat soaked, the valve-train was too tight to tick-over at low RPM.... exhibiting some of the traits you have described. Now, that being said, this may not be your problem, but it's easy to check, and a good thing to make sure is right anyway. Good luck. al

The "search" function is a wonderful thing Forum Search for "Williamsville" The search returned quite a few threads, including this one. But if you check through them you should find quite a number of photos of the Williamsville risers. They are at: http://www.worldbikes.com/wcompetition/ Hope that helps. al

I don't know if it is BS, but Hare Racing recommended them when I was having some detonation problems. I can't say it cured the problem, as there were several things "wrong" at the time, but I do trust Hare Racing not to steer me toward "snake oil" So take that for what it is worth al

I guess Mike Stewart hasn't checked into the board in a while, otherwise I am sure he would have responded to these threads. He did a lot of work with Penske to get a shock that fit the V11 properly, and switched back and forth between the Penske and the Ohlins. In the end he had a lot of data with regard to the types of questions you are asking. I'd do a search on Penske in the forum and check out his threads and/or drop him an email. al

Several of us have that model, and I don't recall any mention of "high speed damping", but maybe they have updated the model ....orrr, mine may have this adjustment, and I just didn't realize. Since I don't have my bike here in this State, I can't run out and look, but once I get out to NC I'll take a look and see. al

I lived in Winter Park(in Orlando area) from 1981 to 1983... one of my favorite places

Moto Italiano = "no comment" Ron @ MI = "no comment" x 2 ...read what you will into that al P.S. OK, "some" comments In the end, I was mostly satisfied with MI's results, and I do think the ownership honestly wanted and tried to do the right thing to get my issues sorted. And again, in the end, I did receive a working and seemingly well sorted bike. So I can't complain there. But the "process" and duration of the work was a real sore spot, and there was(is?) a lot of room for improvement on that point.

Nice bike ....there is also a nice "black" 03 LeMans, and a couple early Sports on eBay right now

Hey, if you want to give me a call, drop me a PM. At this point, the only thing I am willing to say about MI is "no comment" I did have my cases replaced, and I initially had the same experience as you did. My first set of cases were chipped and broken as shipped from MG. So MI sent them back, and I waited another month or three. I had no warantee "approval" SNAFUs, etc, and I have to say that this part of the process ran very smoothly. However, we all know that following the actual start of the case swap in December of 2004, I did not get the bike back until May? of 2005 due to the bike mysteriously refusing to run after reassembly. In then end it turned out to be a cam angle sensor, which IMHO, should have been caught right away, especially since we actually discussed that issue some months prior when the problem first started. But to your issue, who knows MI moved from San Mateo to San Jose at the start of the year, and MGNA has been stirred up again with this new Piaggio acquisition.... so who knows what confusion reigns Sorry to hear this isn't going so well for you. al

Mike, This is a relatively common failure for all 2002(and 01 Rosso Mandello) "fuzzy" engine paint bikes. Mine failed exactly the same way after less than 500 miles on the clock. The reported cause was due to some of the "fuzzy" engine paint either getting onto the mating surfaces and/or the fastener threads causing them to loosen. Either way, the gasket eventually works out as you describe, then it becomes a major leak. I think you can replace this gasket without MAJOR surgery, as the shop had mine fixed in a day or so. You of course will have to remove regulator, alternator, horns, etc... to get to the timing cover, but I don't think you'll have to remove the front sub-frame(I could be wrong) or drop the engine. However, once fixed by thoroughly cleaning the mating surfaces and perhaps chasing and blue loctite'ing the fastener holes... this is not a recurring problem. Good luck! al

....orrrrrr, just the LEAVES themselves Watch out for those guys on the roads. Add a little moisture, and even just a thin layer of leaves in a corner is just like ICE al

Heading to the RTP(Raleigh) area. Same job, just new location.... and MUCH lower cost of living

We sold the house Saturday. Although we waited a whopping WEEK to take offers .... the darned thing actually sold in about 2 days because the gal that bought the house already was "chomping at the bit" to make her offer within days of its being listed We listed it for $589k, and it sold for $636k.... you gotta love the crazy SF Bay area home market(which is why we are leaving) .... and BTW, although a cute house, keep in mind that this insane price was for 2BR/1BA, built in 1942(which I think is an advantage), and only ~960 sqft. Nuts. So, we'll be renting a house in NC in the coming week or so, and getting the movers in. The buyers want to close in 21 days, but gave us an additional 14 days "rent back" for free in case we get delayed. al

Did you hear anything.... I didn't .... ignore him, he's a traitor Heh, how are things going Dave? It's been a long time. Have you taken any good trips on the FJR? So howabout that infamous "FJR Forum Scism" Anyway, your friend has some interesting problems for sure, although I'm not sure that changing out the ECU is going to be the issue. As he may already know, there is no difference between the "racing ECU" and the standard ECU, other than its map. It seems like this problem is cropping up for him in high temps, and that leads to a lot of assumptions.... but I don't want to speculate yet. If I were you, I'd direct him to this forum, and this thread explicitly. It would serve him better, and offer less confusion than emails from myriad sources. That way we can pool our collective "wisdom" in one thread instead of individual speculation. al

...wow, the "ideal" rider seems to be losing more and more weight every time this subject comes up The last I heard, ~170lbs was the ideal Italian jockey Anyway, regardless... yes, that is the consensus, that if you are over... let's just say 150ish... the stock forks are going to start to let you know that you might have to do some more serious adjustment/modification to get sag and damping in the right range. But you definitely can set them up satisfactorily, and don't have to toss them. I do have Ohlins, but they aren't necessary to enjoy the bike. Get some correct springs for your weight, and have the forks dialed-in by someone who knows what they are doing, and you should be happy. al

....lots. Check out the FAQ: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=565 Or do a search on "risers" or "bars" in the title, and you'll find numerous threads on the subject. Risers of the type you describe are made by(in order of popularity): MPH Cycles Williamsville Cycles Two Brothers Racing(one case of cracking though) Daes Mototec(spelling?) .... and several others. And check out this recent thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=5546 al

Why not check out the various options listed in the: Forum Fender Eliminator FAQ

...yeah, that metal shroud/"shield" is meant to "control" the beam and not blind folks head-on. However, what is interesting is that the UK spec headlamp that I got did not include said shroud/"shield"

I have updated the FAQ with this new, but confusing information al

Well, yes.... ~20lbs is quite heavy. And to be clear, your stock "carbon cans" aren't really CF cans, per se. If you really do have the stock LaFranconi CF *sleeved* cans, internally these are exactly the same as the silver or black aluminum *sleeved" steel cans on the other Sport/LeMans models. The CF "look" or "sleeved" cans that came on models like the 01 Rosso Mandello, are simply a CF sleeve over the same heavy steel can as all the models use. In contrast, my Ti Leo Vince cans literally feel like styrofoam when compared to the weight of the stockers. But of course, they are probably about as durable as styrofoam as compared to the steel stockers too if I ever tip the bike over I don't know how much my Leo Vinces weigh, but there really is no comparison, and oh... the sound But I generally like the lines of the stock cans, and if they didn't have all the standard eco-disclaimers stamped on the side of them, turn purple with age(the black ones), have significant flow restriction, and as mentioned... weigh a freakin' ton.... I'd have kept mine. al

The only HUGE difference(other than sound) is that the stockers WEIGH A TON, I mean they are freakin' heavy Go do a search and see if you can find the various threads with pics of the OEM cans cut open, and you'll see why they weigh so much They are also uneven when viewed from the rear, with the right hand side "kicked out" further than the left, but a good margin. But if this bothers you, a little work with some washers/spacers can get them pretty close. If you aren't running any other significant intake/exhaust modifications, and are basically happy with the stock power, then you probably will be happy with the OEM cans. And if you want the OEM cans a "little louder", there a bunch of threads on "unpacking" or "drilling out" the stockers. In fact, browse through the "How To" section, and I think there is a thread on this very subject. BTW, some also really like Staintunes, and they have a baffle that makes them not quite as loud. So that is an option, if you like the "chrome" polished SS finish. al