al_roethlisberger

You have a Scura with the single-plate clutch. It's noises are "opposite" from the standard dual-plate clutch as described above. The single-plate unit came on the Scura, Tenni, and Rosso Mandello. Do a search for "Single Plate Clutch" and you'll find several threads, some of which may leave you concerned unfortunately... as there have been a few failures reported al

.... even in eco-nazi California(which generally I don't mind BTW), no insurer I've ever dealt with asks about modifications Now, in regards to "replacement value", that can be a different story. If you crash your $7000USD bike, then claim that you had $3000USD in "accessories" and "modifications", you had better bring a ton of documentation of the costs, and what a similarly equipped bike might sell for. Even then it can be dicey. In almost all but the most fortunate of cases where the underwriter was being very generous, I often just assume that any extras I've added to the base bike would be "lost" if the bike were totalled al

Why yes http://www.ferracci.com/2002ferracci/tuning/airfilters.html ....it's just an aluminum ring.

...very cool

I think that in practice, you are probably safe with your assumption that some fabricated tabs, in combination with the air "suck" will hold the filter down well enough... although don't quote me on that But, you can indeed buy just the ring from FBF. I did so a couple years back, and it is pretty cheap, like $30 or something. You just have to call them and ask for the piece specifically. Or, you can troll around for someone's take-off airbox lid that you could cut down. I see them on eBay every so often, or just ask around here if someone has a salvage one they'll give or sell you cheap. al

Filters are a stupid waste of time.... I mean, how much dust do we ingest on our brief rides to the pub? Open velocity stacks are the only way to go

hey, my Dad had one just like that when I was a tot

I've said it many many times... the Breva series aren't "the bike for me", but I am very excited about these bikes for MG's interim future. I think(hope) they'll be well received, especially in Europe. al

...glad you were able to find it. This is one of the "horked" threads I can no longer fully view after the Forum crash a while back. al

I sent the template to Jaap a long while ago, but couldn't find the image anymore in the forum either Perhaps he knows where it is. al

Yikes, what a day. I dunno, if I were you, and the repair for the headlight is anywhere over $200.... I'd look into this HID equipped complete unit as an alternative: http://www.jwspeaker.com/catalog/forward_l.../model_8100.htm See thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4527 If I get any trouble with my stock light, this is what I'm going to replace it with if it'll fit in the fairing(depth concerns). al

On the 6-speed bikes, it is on the rear of the transmission, and looks exactly like the breather on the bevel. It unfortunately is perfectly placed to ingest water into the transmission. If you ride in a wet climate, this can be a problem. I can't seem to find a photo of it off-hand, but there should be one floating around. See the following threads: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=386&hl=milky http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=1419&hl=water http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=401&hl=milky http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...482&hl=breather http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...456&hl=breather http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=1419&hl=water On the 5-speed models, the breather is located on the side of the transmission, so it is less of an issue apparently(see 5-speed schematic in the following thread): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=984&hl=milky al

Yes, I have seen the original longer exhaust hangars used with these and other pipes that usually are mounted higher. It will cause them to twist a bit, but if you make some spacers(machined, or just stacked washers) for the exhaust mount bolt, you can straighten them out to some degree. It just takes some fiddling. WRT to tuning the bike, no, the bike should run fine with the included ECU that has the modified fuel map for the pipes. There's nothing special about the included ECU other than it has an updated map for air/fuel. ...although, it has been noted that there is still room for further 'optimizing' the map in the new ECU via tuning its map, or installed a PCIII. But generally speaking, it should run fine without any additional tinkering. al

....he may just not have had a digital photo of his handy, and just used one of many found on the Internet He also may have no idea where his photo came from, and again just used one he found floating around the Internet via a quick Google... if so, then .... As long as it isn't fraud, that is, he doesn't actually have an MGS to sell, then I don't see the big deal.... other than he may made an error in etiquette

...that and the fact that bigger pipes with the same exhaust outlet may have dubious value. Keep in mind that exhausts are "tuned" and simply making the diameter of the exhaust piping larger can have unpredictable results, even reducing power if one isn't approaching the solution with a good base in understanding exhaust tuning. I would say that you need to decide what your goal is, low, mid, high end power, torque... whatever, then go to a reputable exhaust builder, one that knows bikes and V-Twins in particular, and have them build the exhaust that will deliver to your goals. As a general rule though, if you want the best power out the bike, equal length headers into a 2:1 collector system will probably result in the best bang for your buck. But in my opinion, a V-Twin should have dual exhausts, just for the auditory aesthetic alone al

Nice rear fender, but it looks exactly like one that is currently commercially available... and is super spendy. Is this that unit? The problem with this hugger, is that although it may weigh a bit less, and looks spiffy, it offers no more protection than that stock hugger for the rear shock and transmission, especially the breather which can ingest water. What we need is something like this, but with a "tongue" that also extends down in front of the rear wheel to shield the rear of the transmission and the shock. The fender shown will do neither, and allow water and debris to shoot directly at both

....sounds like you had the classic "vapor lock" symptoms, although sometimes it is hard to tell. Do a search on "vapor" and there are many threads, with various opinions. Here is the FAQ: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=462 BTW, I also agree that wrapping pipes on a street vehicle is generally a "bad idea", especially now that ceramic coatings from folks like Jet Hot are so inexpensive, durable, and good looking But as always, YMMV Good luck! al

....ohhh, so that's where my motorcycle is. I thought I used to own one

I believe that the only V11 Sport/LeMans model that came stock with the silver "rock guard" was the 2001 Rosso Mandello. Now, knowing MG, it is entirely possible a few could have shown up here and there randomly though It is available through MG, although I have heard it is pricey. I've been keeping my eye out for one used for a couple years. ...although I have to say that with the V11 oil cooler mounted so high, rock/debris shouldn't really be an issue for the most part. It is fairly well shielded by the forks. The only exception would be the few 2002s that had the Sport1100i/Centauro style fuel pump mount out in front above the regulator. These few iterations have their oil cooler mounted a bit lower, right above the alternator cover. al

I tell ya, this one is the one that amazed me. I can't believe the sub didn't sink after sailing into a MOUNTAIN at cruising speed, and that more weren't killed. I guess it is a testament to the durabilityof some of these multi-million(billion?) $$ machines. http://www.rednova.com/news/display/?id=120053 http://www.anomalynews.com/phorum/read.php?f=1&i=256&t=256

Yeah, always good for a laugh, however... http://www.snopes.com/military/lighthse.htm As you note, probably just a tall tale Although I do like the version you link to quite a bit But speaking about Canadian lighthouses, and warships... this comes to mind http://www.satirewire.com/news/feb02/warship.shtml

Joe, Unless you are determined to get rid of those Leo's ASAP, you might check out this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4705 .... it seems that Leo is no longer making cans for the V11, at least the Ti models(not sure about the CF), so you may want to take that into consideration. And yes, please let us know about your Cycle-Cat project. Please update your prior thread, with pics, reviews, and final costs/challenges. I am probably just about to order some Williamsville units, but was hoping to hear about your Cycle-Cat solution before making the final decision. Here is your thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...1&hl=cycle++cat Good to see you back! al

Indeed, there are only 6 bolts that hold the rear cowl/carapace on the bike. If this is not your experience, we may have a semantics issue, and be talking about different part So to clarify, I am talking about the plastic cowl that covers the rear subframe supporting the seat. This cowl is painted body-color, and is the part that has the script decal "Le Mans", "V11 Sport", "Scura", "Tenni", etc... on both sides. If this is the part to which you are referring, there are 6 easily accessible bolts that hold it on. The first two are up at the front, near the tank, holding the sides of the cowl to the frame. These are large socket/allen chrome bolts. The second two are beside the tool tray, on top of the cowl(under the seat), right before and on either side the rear "hump" of the cowl/carapace. These are two gray socket/allen bolts that are recessed. The final two bolts are located right behind the exhaust hangars(passenger peg brackets) up under the cowl. They are black dome head, allen/socket bolts, again screwed up under the cowl into the seat subframe. Remove these 6 bolts and the cowl can be removed. The "trick" at this point is that the cowl can most easily be removed by sliding the cowl straight back, then once the cowl is clear of the frame parts, lift up and away gently. Also, to get the cowl to slide back, grab the front of the cowl, up where the bolts by the tank are mounted, and gently pull the cowl apart so that the front can slide back without interfering with the subframe bits. On some bikes, you may also have to insert your hand to "unclip" the black cubby hole from its catching on the top edge of the inside of the cubby hole 2002-ish and later bikes have in the hump of the tail piece. I belive earlier bikes have a solid tail cowl that doesn't have this cavity. Well, hope that helps. You should not have to remove anything major to remove this body part, and it should take no more than about 10 minutes once you figure out teh routine. Good luck. al P.S. The hugger is only held on by 4 bolts into the sides of the swingarm, and this can also be removed in minutes without having to remove any major components.

..... people are unbelievable You know, just thinking.... I wonder if the bozos that stole the bike were such idiots that they thought at first glance it was an MGS-01? After all it is red, and has the big square engine sticking out I'm serious. Otherwise, one has to wonder. Although the Daytona is a nice bike, MGs other than perhaps your special SuperTwin really aren't high on the list of bikes that get knicked these days... at least here in the USA where GSXRs and R1s are stolen daily. Thieves just don't know what to do with a Guzzi Nuts al

Right now I have the Corbin, and a slightly damaged(ripped vinyl) RM seat that I got from Todd Eagan. As soon as I get my bike back, I'll ride them back-to-back for a bit and decide which I want to keep long-term... and sell the other. If I keep the RM seat(which I suspect I will), I'll be sending it back to Rich for a recover al