al_roethlisberger

... well I don't know about that, but on another note If anyone is looking for another source of these type of accessories, check out eBay. There are usually quite a few of these on there at any given time. I don't know if they've got the "fighter canopy" treatment, but they look to be about the same http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ssPageName=WDVW al

...sounds like one of the OC "Wal Bike" deals Good going getting that deal though al

You can get amber bulbs at any local auto parts store that has a pretty good selection of various part #s... however, the Buell "smoked" lenses come with an inner amber lens, which is a separate part # if I recall, such that the same clear bulb is actually used. When you order your Buell lenses, make sure you also order the amber inside lenses, or yes... go source some amber bulbs. One or the other al

I think the only reason several people have suggested that the Bitubo damper is "crap" is simply because they seem to have a relatively high failure rate.... not necessarily in regards to performance. Mine blew its seals, and consequently all its oil, within just a few thousand miles... and it was not abused nor cranked up I've seen several similar reported failures. al

... you'd better watch out or someone may take you out http://www.tomshardware.com/hardnews/20050217_180417.html http://www6.tomshardware.com/business/2004.../defcon-05.html

I also echo "Thanks very much Todd" ... we really appreciate your(a dealer's) direct participation in this and other forums like Wildguzzi. al

I'm offended

Given the rave reviews that the Tuono seems to have garnered... since they had it already on-hand, it would have been even better if they could have also included more info on a contrast/compare between the two.... as a side-bar... just for fun But overall, seems like a very positive review, especially in that it contained a healthy dash of "realistic expectations" versus slamming the bike just because it "aint no R1" Nice to see a relatively "glowing" review for a change from someone with the right perspective Thanks for posting the scans! al

.... someone should graft a lift on the front of it and make it a "sporty" Ditch-Witch, or Fork Lift

I don't know, even if it were comparably priced(or just reasonable for it's exclusivity)... I'm honestly not interested in it I don't find the complexity of a V6 or V8 in a bike attractive, just for the same reason I think bikes like the Valkyrie are ridiculous ...mechanincally intriguing, but not desireable from my point of view. Plus the darned thing is water cooled, when air-cooled motors are iconoclastic to motorcycling I hate radiators on bikes al

All the Ti cans I've ever seen(and the Leos I have) all dent/scratch just as easily as any aluminum can. Their skins are quite thin... hence their being super light al

......sooooooooooo much money, soooooooooooooooooo much money I would avoid the OZ wheels myself, as they don't incorporate a cush-drive. al

Some people prefer steel frames, whether on bicycles or motorcycles.... as steel flexes and absorbes shocks better than super-stiff aluminum. That's why a lot of high $$ bicycles are often available in several materials. It just depends on one's personal preference. And a well-made steel frame doesn't have to be heavy... see Ducati Personally, due to the desire for cargo capacity(weight) and long distance rides, I would prefer a steel framed sport touring bike.... not to say an aluminum one isn't a good option either, as obviously many manufacturers do indeed make very successful aluminum framed ST bikes. al

As mentioned elsewhere, Summit Racing sells complete kits of these connectors in assorted sizes, as well as the crimpers and extractors for very reasonable pricing. But you cannot mix/match or order specific connectors. So also check out the following thread for another supplier that allows for quite a bit of mixing and matching, with a $25 minimum order: http://www.sport-touring.net/cgi-bin/msgbo...1;entry524102 The vendor is http://onlinecomponents.com/

As mentioned elsewhere, Summit Racing sells complete kits of these connectors in assorted sizes, as well as the crimpers and extractors for very reasonable pricing. But you cannot mix/match or order specific connectors. So also check out the following thread for another supplier that allows for quite a bit of mixing and matching, with a $25 minimum order: http://www.sport-touring.net/cgi-bin/msgbo...1;entry524102

heh..... "stepping up to the plate" definitively on just about any issue, esp with Guzzi, is something many here are often willing, but practically speaking unable to do. It looks like you've got quite a stable of Guzzis already, so surely you must already realize how the aftermarket and Guzzi relate... which is that, one's options are usually pretty limited. And even with the options one finds, getting detailed info is often difficult, if not impossible. It's just an issue of scarcity, and low volume more than anything else. That being said, the number and quality of aftermarket items from just 3 years ago when the V11 forum was started, is vastly improved. Heck, "back then" it was nigh impossible to find more than a couple options for exhausts, and forget about detailed info regarding other accessories commonly found on higher-volume makes such as fender kits, lighting, seats, etc... But as time continues to pass, these options will expand, and info will accumulate... as it already has. I'm sure you can see this trend on the older Guzzi models you have. Anyway, I don't know that anyone can "step up to the plate" much more than already done, but suffice to say that you can't really go wrong with the Leo Vinces(no longer available, but perhaps NOS somewhere if you look around), Mistrals, or the FBF cans. I've heard good things about all of them, and I think they are all pretty much made similarly, so I can't imagine they sound too differently If I had to buy exhausts today, and didn't have the choice of the Leos or MG Ti kits, I would go for the Mistrals most likely. Although the silver Neptunes above look mighty nice too. al

Well, I think it should fit, but don't know for certain. I sold my old Sachs/Boge to a fella in the UK that blew out his WP on his Sport1100 about a year ago, and didn't hear any complaints I saw one on eBay the other day coincidentally This would be a good question for someone like Mike Stewart, or even better, Carl Allison, as Mike has done a lot of rear shock swapping.... and Carl has both a V11 and Sport1100. al

.... ahh, I hadn't seen that looker Nice

It's not a classic in the literal sense, as it's a relatively recent bike. ...and oh, I don't know, it's not too bad looking in a sorta "BMWish" way http://www.motalia.de/morbidelli_v8_850.html Heck, it doesn't look toooo different than the ill-fated V11 GT Neither is too attractive though, and I don't see the advantage of all the complexity a V8 in a bike engine offers. The V8 components end up being so small, exhausts, etc... that it ends up looking like a toy engine al

I don't know if it is an "understanding" per se(you know, like Guido will come by and break your knees if you do) But I never use the "jet stream" setting on my garden hose to wash or rinse the bike.... any bike, or as TX points out, even my Chevy's engine. I certainly never have used a high pressure washer, as yes, this can be disastrous for electronics, bearings, and such. I use a gentle fan of water spray, then wash by hand with a sponge-thing after a brief soak with my soap of choice... then fan spray off, and wipe down with an old towel. It takes about 15 minutes, and I never spray the instruments directly, and have them covered with an old shop towel. It seems to have worked well so far. al

"All of the above" ... and I wonder how well that thing actually "performs" pulling all that additional weight around. But then again, I guess a Ural does just fine with about half the HP, so al

Hrmm, I don't want to panic you, but one thing we've learned about these bikes is that if the oil light comes on for anything longer than the briefest of flickers.... the damage is already done. Pete Roper can add a bit more, but basically the threshold on the idiot light is so close to critical, that by the time it trips, the mains may already be cooked. I had my light come on once, and only briefly, and I had a scored main bearing and crank... although it can't be confirmed the two were correlated But 1-2 seconds is a pretty long time a 3k RPM. These bikes have an unbaffled, flat and broad sump with the pickup in the *front* of the sump, so if the oil level is just a little low, under hard acceleration the pickup can suck air... which = bad. This is also why wheelies are often less than recommended with these bikes. To offset this issue, deep sump kits are available, and one proto windage plate has been made.... but the easiest fix is regular checking of oil level. Again though, I don't want to panic you, as even with these points... we've seen very few motors have damage from any of the conditions/scenarios above. It is rare. We also have had several folks find faulty oil pressure senders, that regardless of oil pressure, tripped the light. So there's the "don't panic" disclaimer First and foremost, never rely on the idiot light.... and be sure to check the oil level on the bike with it *vertical*, never on it's side-stand. You have to screw the dipstick all the way in, then back out, for an accurate reading... again, with the bike *vertical*... otherwise you will read the level too high on the dipstick. Of course, you can also "recalibrate" the dipstick for sidestand levels easy enough, but the OEM markings are again, for vertical testing. Oh, and while we are talking about the stock dipstick(which sucks BTW ) ... if you drill a few holes through the center, at the high, low, and maybe a couple between... you can read the level MUCH easier than without. Now, about your rattle... I have no idea Honestly, it's hard to tell. All I can recommend is continued "listening", on and off the bike, and maybe from someone riding beside you. Like all things mechanical, especially with your perspective above the bike, moving... it could be coming from a number of places. Here's one suggestion though... check the oil-cooler brackets. If your bike didn't have the faulty 99-01 aluminum brackets retrofitted with the steel units, the aluminum units are very prone to breakage due to vibration, and could be making the sounds you observe. If you still have the aluminum brackets, you may still be able to get a dealer and MGNA to replace them for free as it was sortof an unofficial recall item. If not, they aren't expensive and many dealers stock them. Good luck, and let us know about your oil level inspection... al

.... yeah, I guess it just takes practice, but working on the MG is certainly no harder than working on my old FJ or Seca... and probably actually easier I can get the tank off the LeMans in about a minute and a half I think you'll find that over time, the V11 is very easy to work on, as many of the parts are "big and clunky" like an erector set al

With the naked bikes, just about any "reasonably close to OEM" length damper will work. I don't know the model # of the Ohlins used on the Cafe Sport, etc.... but you can find used Ohlins on eBay all the time for relatively cheap. So find one that is the right length, and it should bolt right on With the faired bikes(LeMans), clearances between the bottom of the fairing bits, and damper, only allow for a single tube solution, not stacked "wide" tube version like the Ohlins. al

Mike's a mechanic for a Chevrolet dealership, hence the Chevy EFI jab