al_roethlisberger

Relay information, part #s, and sources at Guzzitech: http://www.guzzitech.com/Relays.html al

I thought about doing the same when I had the original external fuel system on my '02, and was doing the project relocating my fuel pump to combat vapor lock. Thread: 3.5 Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator - A good idea?? After some conversations such as noted in the thread above(and on Wildguzzi), I was counseled that although it will deliver more fuel across the map, it is at best a "gross" adjustment to the map. And at the worst, it would require a much faster cycle of the injectors if one wanted to actually tune it back in-line to maximize performance/efficiency, which may be detrimental to the longevity of the injectors and fuel system. Bottom line, I was recommended to stick with the specified pressure. However, one alternative to address the potential issue of the stock regulator not quite giving a true 3.0 Bar, was to purchase the Evoluzione(www.evoluzione.net) adjustable fuel regulator kit. This kit allowed one to add an adjustment screw to the back of the OEM pressure regulator to dial-in the desired pressure, up or down. Unfortunately Evoluzione doesn't market Guzzi accessories any longer, but the kit for the MG is the same as supplied for the Aprilia and Ducatis they also had a kit for. So I suspect that if one specifically requested the kit, it could be made available. Ask for Ken Zeller. Of course, if one does still want to go with a 3.5 Bar regulator, one can simply change out the cartridge, as available from Weber. See this thread: Source for our external fuel pump thread The regulators are available here: http://www.redlineweber.com/html/fuel_air_..._regulators.htm The blue "billet" regulator at the bottom of the page uses the exact same cartridge as our OEM unit, so all you have to do is purchase a 3.5 Bar replacement/spare cartridge from them. This is about $40 if I recall. And if you do convert to larger injectors, to maintain the correct spray and volume, you probably will need a higher pressure regulator. But once I converted to the 03+ in-tank system, documented in the 2003 Retrofit Thread, I no longer needed the external regulator, and spare catridges. I actually have a 3.5 Bar cartridge or two, a couple of the "billet" regulator bodies, and if anyone is interested the whole external fuel pump/regulator system as well. al

No kidding... what a rotten holiday present Best of luck, and glad to hear you already have some leads. al

I'd have to take difference with this statement on porting, by saying, like many things... it depends Porting is not just grinding out the ports. Depending on what type of riding and target performance one is "porting" the head to support, you may actually weld in more material then shape and smooth. It is as much an art as science, and there are many different porting options, sometimes called "Stages", that can vastly affect how it is executed, and the performance it delivers. But yes, it is easy to remove too much material, increasing the cross-section, and decreasing velocity(if CFM remains constant or decreases). But if porting increases CFM along with increased cross-section, velocity can remain constant, or even increase.... so it just depends. Also, one of the primary goals of porting is to smooth the airflow through the intake, increasing velocity, not necessarily simply increasing the cross-section/volume. In fact, when Mike Rich ported my heads, his main concern was his difficulty working with the MG head to work a smooth flow, but not increase cross-section such that optimal velocity was negatively impacted. For the street, he has a "Stage I" and "Stage II" porting job and takes into account the needs/goals a street rider may have in mind.... and for the track... "Stage III" that as described, is like your description... WOT, for race applications. I don't know that porting is an amazing panacea, nor can really say how much bang-for-the-buck it provides. But Mike's "Stage II" was supposedly good for three/four HP(gross) per cylinder if I recall. Also, although you can deck the heads a bit, be careful not to do it too much, otherwise you start to mess with the squish-band, and valve-piston clearances. The former will exacerbate detonation issues, and the latter... well Mike was only able to get an estimated .25 point of CR(probably less) increase by milling my heads down to within what he thought was a safe and effective margin. I don't recall what that margin was, but I'm sure he'd be happy to chat with you if interested. www.mikerichmotorsports.com al

...ahh goodness, sorry to hear about your experience I think the best course of action is to "stock up" on a couple eBay/salvage units if one is concerned. They are typically dirt cheap on eBay. It doesn't sound cost-effective, or even prudent to bother fixing them based on your review.... unfortunately al

*edit - I guess I should have read the responses above fully before my reply below, but yes, there seems to be a consensus around "fit first, fashion.... well, dead last" -------------------------------------------------------------------- The major brands, Shoei, Arai, Bell, even "off brands" like HJC and Beiffe(sp?) are all about equal as far as safety offered according to various sources. In fact, many folks have been very impressed with the HJC models, especially considering the price. What you really begin to pay a premium for are features and fashion... just like everything else in life But the primary and most important issue, once you identify your budget, is to find what helmet fits you best. You won't want to wear a helmet that is ill fitting, and worse yet, an ill fitting helmet can come off at the least, and cause additional injury at the worst. Although people argue that there are "Shoei heads" and "Arai heads", both brands have models that seem to fit different physiologies equally well for some people. But I would agree that "generally" more round-headed folks(like myself) seem to prefer Shoei helmets, and longer narrower heads seem well suited for Arai models. So, the advice I've always heard, and followed, is to go down one's local MC "superstore" and *blind* yourself to brand preference... and try them all on. When you find the one that fits best, wear it around the shop for at least 30min... no matter how goofy you think you look. If it still feels right afterwards, doesn't create discomfort(such as "hot spots"), etc.... then it's a good choice. Try to narrow it down to a couple that seem to fit best, and then do more trying on. And BTW, "fitting best" means quite tight, almost too tight.... you should have "chipmunk cheeks" and be unable to twist the helmet on a new one if it fits properly. Otherwise, if you buy a new helmet that seems to initially fit "just right", you are almost guaranteed to end up with a helmet full of "slop" after it breaks in and the pads get all loose, which is quite dangerous. That being said, the Aria Quantum series, and the Shoei RF series are top-rated helmets, but both are a premium... the Arai more so. The Shoei RF series has typically been rated as one of the most quiet helmets out there and seems to accomodate glasses reasonably well(I wear sunglasses under my shield) although it's venting could be a bit better as compared to the Arai. But yeah, more vents and more graphics = more $$ Good luck, helmet shopping is fun! al

I'm not so certain that the PCIII is necessarily better than a number of factory ECUs out there, but it gives the owner the ability to easily modify the EFI map, which in many cases is not available to the average owner without much more expensive equipment and hardware... that even some dealers do not have on hand. Also, since there is a wide network(in North America anyway) of Power Commander certified Dyno Centers, getting a custom EFI map made to accomodate aftermarket changes to the intake/exhaust system, is just a ride down the street and a couple hundred $$ away. I think that's the real advantage the PCIII offers to most owners. As I've noted several times in other threads, if one has access to a shop/guru that has the equipment and expertise to modify the map on an OEM ECU for a reasonable amount of $$..... and you don't plan to modify the map again frequently.... then you probably don't need a PCIII to get your bike's EFI system dialed-in. However, in the case of the Guzzi Marelli 15M ECU, there isn't a lot of expertise/equipment out there mapping the 15M .... specifically in North America, even on the West Coast where there are a lot of Ducati shops. But we have TONS of Power Commander shops. So in this case, it's a matter of convenience/availability. I know that in some areas of Europe, specifically Germany and The Netherlands, there seems to be more available expertise around optimizing the stock ECU for the Guzzi. So in that case, it might make less sense for the average owner to invest in a PCIII But again, here in the USA, the PCIII is really the only option for Guzzi EFI bikes and their owners who need to tweak the mapping, and have the convenience of shops nationwide that can do so. al

And for an even "lighter" RAM clutch, here is one after Ed at Guzzitech got his hands on it http://www.guzzitech.com/store/Flywheellightening.html One of these days I'll have to rev a bike with one of these lighter clutches to see what I think, as compared to the standard dual-plate unit on my LeMans. To the original question about "any drawbacks", but beyond the current discussion about reliability, I wonder how the lightened engine(whether by lighter clutch, rods, pistons, or a combination) "rides" in the real world as compared, and depending on one's individual riding-style, what might be actually preferred or considered a "drawback" in that regard I suspect that since I am not an aggressive rider, and am sensitive to vibes, I may .... for example.... prefer the a heavier flywheel *shrug* I have no idea at this point though, as I don't have a practical frame of reference to compare. Does anyone have any significant seat time on both types of clutches on similar bikes, say comparing a standard V11 Sport, to a Scura... and if so, what are your thoughts? I don't plan to swap out my clutch any time soon, but it would be good to have a general idea of what I would prefer to replace it with once the original clutch wears out one of these days in the far flung future. BTW, for an average rider, how long(mileage) does a dual-plate clutch tend to last? al

Some related threads: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2659&hl=clutch http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3520 There seems to be some confusion with regard to differences between the aftermarket RAM clutches, and a potential "first" and later series of RAM(or maybe non-RAM) single-plate clutches as installed in the Scura, Tenni, and Rosso Mandello.... that may or may not be fundamentally defective.... Does that help The only thing we know for sure is that 4 or 5 Scura single-plate clutches have failed explosively, and have been reported to the V11LeMans forum and German forums. There may be more that have gone unreported, not yet disintegrated, or maybe this small % is just an unlucky few We really don't know at this point. If it were me, and I wanted to reduce rotating mass, I'd just get Ed at Guzzitech to lighten my flywheel until we know more. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/Flywheellightening.html al

Latest news: http://195.224.59.217/news/archives_2000/n...ils.asp?id=3584

I'd actually be curious to know how the weight of the Quat-D system compares to other aftermarket cans, like a pair of slip-on Leo Vince/Mistral/FBF etc cans I wonder because these examples all probably save 15-ish pounds alone as well, and I bet the big metal box of the Quat-D isn't light as a feather. I suspect(although I could be wrong) as a system, a good pair lightweight aftermarket cans offers about the same weight savings of the Quat-D system. If correct, I'd say that perhaps along with reducing the width of the bike, the real advantage of the system is then aesthetic(nothing wrong with that BTW), as past dyno posts of the impact of the Quat-D(old model) showed markedly poorer performance than a standard dual can solution, so performance isn't a real advantage either Maybe someone with a Quat-D can weigh theirs sometime and post it? I know my Ti Leo Vince cans are light as air.... and... *thinking*.... probably about as fragile if I ever bang them on anything al

.... left hand side on the original model: BTW, they usually aren't this polished, nor have the red high-lighted "QD" on them. These are similar(if not the same) as what Ghezzi & Brian use on some of their models. But the new/improved model they reference in their email above seems to have the outlet relocated on the right according to the photos at: http://www.quat-d.com/prodotto.php?pcode=1...Id=89&curr_id=1 I'm personally not a fan, but several people had inquired about a dual outlet option, and there had been some examples of welds cracking by forum members using the unit.... hence my inquiry with the manufacturer. al

Well, I guess I wrote the Quat-D guys a while back(so long ago, that I forgot ), asking about their exhaust, and they JUST got back to me That's right, from back in JUNE.... 6 months ago Well, anyway, I still appreciate their replying, and following is their comments regarding a single vs. dual-outlet version, and prior issues with cracked welds.

See, now you've got the right idea I'd wait and let the frenzy pass to see where prices really settle. Unfortunately for owners(but good for patient buyers), Guzzis don't seem to hold their value(MSRP), and seem to settle down around the $6-8k mark after a couple years. I'm not saying the MGS will be $5k in two years, but just like other "niche" vehicles(The AC Cobra comes to mind)... although striking, and the public loved them, in reality they often sat around dealer showrooms for years until the last one was sold at steep discounts, especially non-road legal(race) versions like the MGS. So, I'll be curious to see what happens to the MGS over the next say... 3-4 years... and who knows, maybe like a Daytona these days, we can pick an MGS up for a song as compared to $25k. al

If you are talking about the water proof connectors as used on about 80% of the harness(such as the fuel system electrical connections), these are Amp Weather-Tite/Weather Pack connectors. These are specialty connectors that you can't just go get at your local Radio Shack, and you will have to buy a kit of connectors, along with the specialized crimper and extraction tools. Easiest solution is to to to SummitRacing.Com.... That's where I bought my kit and tools. The kit that has 49 assorted pins and connectors is part# SUM-900403 , and is $49.95, the extractor kit is about $9, and the crimper about $30. The kit will last a long time, and has 1, 2, 3, and 4 pin male/female connector shells. Amp Weather-Tite Connector Kit Assortment Extractor Tool Kit Weather Pack Crimper Althernately, you can also go down to your local specialty Electronics(if you are lucky) or more likely your local Automotive Speed/Hot-Rod shop. These guys rarely have the inividual connectors and pins disassembled in kits, but do often have premade harnesses that you can sometime disassemble to fit your needs, but that's a poorer solution than building them from scratch due to metal fatigue, etc from extracting the pins, etc... But these shops do sometimes have the crimpers and extractor set, but they are upwards of $100. I tell ya though... once you get the hang of these connectors, you'll find yourself replacing every non weather-tight connector on the bike, or any other vehicle you have These things are awesome, indestructable, and much easier to engage/disengage than the various bullet, molex, etc... connectors you'll find floating around the bike. Why they didn't wire every connector on the bike(such as the clutch safety switch) with these is a mystery to me(except for the signal bullets that have to be small enough to fit through the fairing hole). Good luck. al

Here is one thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=3308&hl=county al

Yeah, do a search for "Orange" and you'll probably find quite a few "opinions" on the issue , but basically we haven't heard any bad feedback from customers. One thing you'll want to double-check on is if the bike is fully setup and all the fasteners have been given a good going-through once received. Keep in mind that one always gets what one pays for, so it is possible some corners may get cut in the prep, but not necessarily. Also you may want to check with your local dealer to see if they'll be thrilled about servicing one of the "Wal Guzzis" from Orange County. Many dealers are quite upset with MGNA for selling OC a load of bikes at such a low cost not offered to others, such that OC can sell their bikes at retail lower than *cost* for the regular dealers. One very reputable and well-respected dealer in L.A.(Moto Guzzi Classics) finally just gave up selling new Guzzis as he couldn't compete, and ended up doing a bunch of warantee work on bikes he never sold. We've even heard rumblings of class action suits from some other big dealers that were undercut by the deal. But that's just rumor-mongering on my part Good luck with the bike though. I think 2-3 folks on the board bought an OC bike from out of state and it turned out fine. al

The "2 Year Breakdown Service" started with the '03 bikes here in North America, so I'm not certain you would get the same service with an '02 model, even if NOS I guess you can check though, no harm done BTW, has no one else noticed that he has somehow gotten a 2002 LeMans in CANADA See this thread on why this is apparently quite shocking: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=4014 You apparently will have quite a rare bird in your neck-of-the-woods. Congrats al

What's humorous is that Antonio actually posted to that thread back on November 4th ....joking about calling Jaap a "Tukker" I guess he "didn't know what he was getting into" with that thread... all 13 pages of it al

Or even better, in the FAQ section: V11 Forum Dual Plug FAQ

With the number of complaints we've heard over the years of this hose failing from heat deterioration, etc.... I think it makes sense to perhaps make a replacement out of some of the "indestructable" high performance hoses and fittings one can get from SummitRacing.com, a local "hot rod shop", etc.... There are hoses like the blue stuff I used during my first rounds of fuel-pump relocation, that is safe to several hundred degrees, and well over 100 psi. Add a couple appropriate angle fittings... and you'll probably never have to replace this hose again.... for about $40 worth of parts probably. al

Here's a practical question for you all: My old FJ1200 was carbureted, and as such, during extreme altitude changes... it's relatively "fixed map"(jets/needles) would have issues running once the atmospheric inputs varied outside its supported extremes. For example, up in Rocky Mountain National Park above Estes, CO... it barely ran. However, my friend's '98 Honda VFR, with EFI(I have no idea if closed or open loop), would run like a champ as it apparently adjusted automatically to the changing air density. With our OEM ECU incorporating an air pressure sensor(the black knob on the ECU case, from what I understand), does the V11 EFI system have the capability to run well in this scenario? Not having ridden my bike at extreme altitude, except up over Yosemite a couple years ago(where it did run fine BTW), I don't have any experience on the V11 in this application... and am curious if it will behave like the FJ or the VFR? al

Some relevant threads: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...2827&hl=orleans http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...2912&hl=orleans

Yes, since MG is a relatively small manufacturer, they do not have CA specific nor "48 State" version bikes. Fortunately they are also exempt from some of the stricter regulations other manufacturers are held to. However, most CA DMV drones are unaware of this, and will give one grief if all your ducks are not in a row, thinking the bike may not meet CA emissions, etc... But, we've had several folks here buy bikes out of state(outside CA) and bring them in, all successfully. But in some cases, it went smoother than others. The main thing to look for is the CA/EPA sticker on the swingarm(all North American Guzzis have them), under the black plastic hugger. The sticker is black, with white print, detailing info such as valve lash settings, tire pressure, etc... If that is present, you should be able to take the bike to the DMV, have it inspected, and registered with no problem. If he is really lucky, he'll be able to register it no questions asked, and forgo this whole process, but you never know It's a crap-shoot every time one goes to the DMV If they do give him grief, and he doesn't have the sticker in place, he'll have to get a letter from MGNA certifying/clarifying that all North American V11s are CA legal.... one of our members had to go that route, when the previous owner had removed the decal. al

OK Dave, you are required to give us "long term" ride comparison report once you get some miles on the FJR al