al_roethlisberger

Nice Some other options, this guy makes them locally.... and almost all the photos and videos posted at sites like www.SouthBayRiders.com are shot using his mounts: http://www.sportbikecam.com/ al

I think it's time you updated your "V11 info" page Jason Welcome back al

Well, first..... welcome back Jason ....where the heck have you been, and my goodness what took so long to get this far on the bike Anyway, WRT the pistons... well, I'd just give Mike a call and ask him. But my thoughts are that since his pistons are "drop in", they should work fine with your newly balanced crank since their weight will essentially be the same as your stock units. However, it will be less than optimal as the stock pistons vary quite a bit from spec, and now the crank, etc ... is now balanced to those weights, out of spec or not. al

Robbie, it sounds like you lead a very "tough" life Happy Birthday And yes, you could by a "hopped up" motor, but I believe they are several thousand built, and if you went for a high-cam 4V motor, you'd have to do some creative fuel tank modifications to get it to fit in a V11 body from what I understand. But anything is "doable"

Well, with these distinctions noted, I am still interested to see how well this works out for Enzo's bike longish-term. If/when he can make them available at a reasonable price, and his engine doesn't show any ill effects, I will probably be interested. Maybe Ed had a different type of plate installed when his engine failed?? Todd? al

What fun! I wish I had time, money, and access to a machine shop like that

True True ....of course, doing so might require winning the lottery al

Some Mike Rich "marketing info" on the pistons:

......ummmmmmmm http://www.racetech.com/

...why was it in the shop for 4 months? al

The rear wheel/tire doesn't have to be removed. All you have to do is relieve/minimize the compression on the shock to get it out, and be able to move the rear swingarm up/down a bit when wiggling the shock out of there. You'll have to remove your airbox to get to the top bolts(if I recall), but just loosen that up once tension is relieved from the shock, and do the same with the long bolt holding the bottom eye.... and along with freeing the nitrogen reservior... it will come out with some judicious swearing and contortion I found it easiest to relieve the rear wheel suspension by simply using the factory shop stand, or lifting the back under the sump(be careful here). al

...hey now, a LeMans isn't "base" al

Good write-up Pete, and the mental imagery of "nubile young titters"... well ....so anyway, I got a brief response from Mike Rich on the Windage Plate subject. His emails are always brief, and as such there's not much meat in the response, but again, he loooooves to talk, so if anyone has any interest in chatting with him on the subject, feel free to actually give him a call So it sounds like we may be having some degree of semantic issues here as well, as has been mentioned earlier So maybe we are really talking more of a "baffle plate" that Pete/Enzo have developed, and as such it doesn't sound like Mike thinks it is too much of a risk versus a true WP Anyway, don't know if that's helpful, but there ya go al

...bah .... unless you bore the 4V(like the MGS-01), the latest 2V iterations(especially with mild massaging) are coming within striking range of the production 4V engine of Centauro/Daytona vintage, and are a good bit more tractable in the low/mid range according to most owners I've known that have both....

Unless something has changed with the newest FZ-1(Fazer1000 in Europe), the FZ-1 has "conventional" forks, while the R1 has "inverted" or USD(upside down) forks, as well as being different diameter, so the springs are probably quite different. Although they share some of the same basic engine foundation, and some components(like the original R1 brakes), the FZ-1 and R1 are vastly different bikes, especially in the area of frame and suspension. So I doubt the springs are alike at all. al

Are the "Quat-D" and G&B unit the same? If so, yes, do a search on "Quat" and you'll find a few threads on it. I know the initial versions of the Quat had some QA issues with breaking welds, and lost some top-end power if I recall as compared to the stock dual-output exhaust. al

...I wonder if they are progressive or straight-rate springs? Just curious, as many OEM big-4(non race-rep bikes) manufacturers are progressive as many riders find them to be more road friendly. al

No, this is not "normal" I know JohnK here in SF had some similar issues with the seals on his Ohlins after they didn't use the special "Ohlins seal goo"(seriously). I think after he replaced the seals another time with the correct grease/sealant, they worked fine.... He didn't find any knicks in the sliders, etc, but this is always the first thing to check for when one has repeated seal failures. al

...indeed, I as well am not offering a definitively negative opinion on the WP application, as I personally have no data/experience to present for either position. I am only passing on what info I have been told I am interested to see how this develops over time. al

Although we've had this discussion elsewhere.... http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=3665&hl=future I too think the V11 line, at least in the Sport variety models, is probably limited, but MG has to get enough critical mass in other model sales first. I predict that, unless something else happens to force the complete demise(like regulation), MG will keep one naked and faired model around for a while yet. But the various models may eventually evaporate. We'll see. al

Good to know Thanks al

Here ya go, pics galore: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...c=3391&hl=buell I made my own as well, and think I did a bang-up job considering it was all by hand. But I think I'll be ordering a set from Fonz, just because I think his tolerances should be tighter using a real jig, and the material seems to have been removed more evenly on his. I have some small lingering long-term concerns that I may have removed too much material from the "top" side of mine, and being aluminum, may crack over time... although all has been well so far. As far as comfort, they are definitely better than stock, although I still need to adjust my brake and gear-change levers a bit accordingly(although surprisingly I've gotten pretty used to where they are stock). One thing I did to however, is extend the actual shifter peg about a half inch to take into account the wider peg location. This helped a lot ergonomically. I simply installed a slightly longer bolt, covered it with the correct length/cut bushing so that the stock pad would fit tightly, and then put a small length of small heater hose behind the stock pad to keep it from moving back to it's original location. It looks nearly stock, and works like a charm I'd post a picture, but my bike is up in San Mateo at the shop. al

Unfortunately this was the "jist" of Mike Rich's assessment of WPs on MG street bikes He had made many for race bikes, but their engine life-span was by design relatively short, so the benefit of low "oil drag" and "anti foaming" at high RPM was worth the cost of increased engine wear. He actually said it will cause overheating and loss of lubrication(which is the opposite the WP is touted to provide ), due to lack of oil-splash.... especially in the area of the timing chain where oil is passively 'sloshed' into the chest. But I personally have no expertise here, just relating what I recall.... which may be fuzzy. I'd love to hear more weigh-in on the subject. I'm still "interested" but my "jury is still out" on the subject until we learn more long-term. al

Sounds like it is an initial success I might be interested in one if there is enough interest to get the price within reason ...but I'd personally probably wait a while to actually install it, and see how the long term report comes back on yours and anyone elses bike Let me know if/when you make them available. al

...not sure what "bobines" are, but I'll make a guess that they are the coils. If so, TLM can order the exact OEM plug-in replacement coils, that are simply dual-output versions of the coils already on our bikes, instead of adapting others. ...no muss, no fuss, and best of all, no "modification" of the wiring harness required. Just plug and play Check back a few pages on this thread, or the FAQ, for the part # al