al_roethlisberger

An interesting perspective from Will Creedon, definitely food for thought:

BTW, the unsold Ohlins fork ends are back on eBay again. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...me=STRK:MEWA:IT ....still haven't met reserve at over $700 and 2 days left The seller may have reset his "expectations" al

Correct on both points: - Balancing is indeed a good thing, but I probably wouldn't bother unless I changed the rods. It isn't necessary with Mike's pistons. - WRT to power, perhaps I should clarify that I realize changing out the rods offers no benefit to power production, but does lighten the rotating mass, making for faster "spin up". Actually if power is simply the concern, the stock(heavy) Guzzi conn-rods are pretty bullet-proof from what I hear Thanks, and looking forward to the thoughts of anyone that has personal experience comparing bikes equipped with the rods versus those not so equipped. al

Well, I asked this question some time ago, but thought I'd revisit it before the bike goes into the shop, and I order the parts. MGNA finally(some 9 months later) (As an aside: Although the cases came in, as per the previous sets shipped to Moto Italiano, they were just thrown together in a box with a little bubble-wrap and some shredded paper. And you guessed it, they are damaged. Fortunately they aren't actually broken like one set they received, but the starter bell apparently has some paint chipped off. I am to go up there tomorrow to inspect the cases and decide whether to accept them or not, or make MG send another set, properly packed. I suspect that unless the cases are really messed up, and it is only this one little chip, I'll just accept them instead of waiting another eternity for another set to show up, possibly damaged just as bad or worse in shipping MI told me that they complained to MGNA about the substandard shipping after two sets of cases showed up damaged, and then one subsequent shipment did show up packed better, with no damage. But then my cases showed up next, back to the old shipping method ) Anyway, along with Mike Rich 10:1 pistons, Megacycle Cam 620x9(x10 requires sinking the valves, and I'm not shipping my heads off again), and new valve springs(for the cam).... I was considering adding Carillo connecting rods to the mix. The inclusion of the rods would add about another $600-700 to the cost of the project(rods' price, installation, engine balance)..... so I'm trying to gauge the real "seat of the pants" benefit, if there is much, from others that have ridden bikes with these rods fitted. If on a street bike, that isn't ridden terribly aggressively, I'm trying to get a feel for if the reduced rotating mass will be that noticeable for the money spent(again, "is it worth it" other than "gee whiz" factor)... and also making sure that it's not a tradeoff, such as making the idle more finicky, or maybe making for a "less smooth" engine. Also feel free to comment on the other modifications if you wish My goal all along has been to get a true 90 well-behaved HP at the rear wheel, then I'm done. BTW, I have no logical reason why 90HP is my goal, other than that's about what my FJ1200 had before I bought the LeMans .....but there ya go. Thanks. al

Thanks for the review I'm hoping that sometime in the near future, we can all get together for a ride, and someone attending with have a Rich Maund seat fitted.... so I can take a sit and compare. I've been considering just biting the bullet and buying one of Rich's seats, then selling the one I like least.... and in the end may be what I do I like my Corbin, but I'd like to have the ability to attach the cowl(poor reason to switch seats, I know )... but more importantly, while "comfortable" and better than stock, I still don't feel quite right on the Corbin at times... too much fore/aft sliding even after I had them extensively modify the seat. al

FYI: The electric petcock disappeared and reverted to a manual type in 2002 There's not even a hookup on the harness in 2002 for the electric petcock of the 00/01 models as far as I can tell. But to the point here, based on his description, I don't think his problem is the electric petcock on his bike.... although this is certainly an area to also check for related problems as his is an 00 and probably does have this little gremlin fitted WRT the vapor lock though, before going the nutso route I've gone moving things all around, etc(which does help though), I would first check to see where the fuel supply line is routed, and if too close to the left cylinder, move it away... or make a new longer line, with heat shielding, to get it as far away from the heat as possible. Most people don't seem to have this problem, and we don't know why some bikes are more susceptible than others. But high heat and altitude certainly don't help. al

No, the marker lights are typically are a bit more dim than the blinker light, that BTW, is usually the same bulb/housing as the marker lights, just with an extra filament for "blinking". What are they for? Well, they just add a bit more extra "visibility". From the rear, they are the red tail-lights you see so you don't run into someone, the ones that turn into "brake lights" when the brake is depressed. From the front, when not flashing, they have two functions: 1) Parking lights, so you don't get run into at night in a parking lot, etc... without your headlights on, say, parked in a driveway and you don't want to wake everyone with your headlights. 2) Side "marker lights" ... well, when your headlight is on, these lights, the ones on the corners of the car, perhaps one on the front fender, and the tail-lights, simply visually "mark" the outside extremes of the car at night for extra visbility and safety. And, the colors used help one quickly visually identify the direction a vehicle is traveling, like on a boat. And at night, in foggy conditions, these marker lights, especially the amber ones, are very visible and help to illuminate objects close to the car. I'm sure there are other reasons, but that's what comes to mind quickly Anyway, regardless, this is the "standard" in North America... always has been... well at least for the last 75 years or so al

Well, if Ducati buys Aprila/Guzzi, I guess it won't matter what these "nights" are called anymore ....as we'll be part of Ducati Now, what will be interesting.... is what will become of MGNA. Ducati North America is based right down the street from here al

heh, you "beat me to it"... that was the suggestion I was going to add to the end of my last post, and is indeed what I've use so far as my "standard" al

....well there ya go I guess you guys just have a different "standard" down there, and therefore different expectations. Understandable al

An obvious question, but perhaps not so obvious an answer..... any idea how long is "long enough" versus "too long"?? I can certainly go look down the TB myself to answer the question, but never have. The bolts I've got are the ones the dealer gave me, and aren't really that long.... but I've thought about this question before, but never looked into it... both literally and figuratively Anyway, how long should the bolt be to not get into the airstream? Any idea? I suspect it's not a huge issue either way... al

Hrmm, I guess the "standard" is just different down in OZ .... or I think we may be getting lost in semantics. So, first, let's standardize on terminology, to avoid confusion... as that may possibly be part of the problem.... often is Running lights = forward facing white lights, on 100% of the time when the ignition is on, not necessarily headlights, but can be. Generally introduced a few years ago as standard equipment for visibility/safety reasons. My bad by following the convention in this thread of referring to "running lights" meaning solidly lit indicator lights(amber or otherwise), if that introduced any confusion. Indicators/Signals/Marker lights = forward and rear facing marker lights, typically amber, for indicating turning, hazard, or "parking lights". In the rear, these can be red(hence their often being integrated with the tail-lights), in North America(and I assume elsewhere) red cannot face forward legally except on emergency vehicles. These are typically called "parking lights" when lit solid, and "hazards" when they flash in unison, and blinkers/indicators/directionals when blinking on one side to indicate a turn. Brake light = red tail-light, at maximum brilliance when brake is applied Headlights = .... well, you know... headlights Reverse/Backup light = rear facing white light, but not referenced in this thread OK, in North America, when our headlights are on, the marker lights are lit solid. BTW, it is illegal in most States in the US to drive with just your "parking lights" lit, i.e. without the headlight. We also have "running lights" that were mandated by Federal Law for a while(but am not sure if that's still currently true), but these are different. Technically these are actually called "Daytime Running Lights" here in North America. Again, these lights are white, face forward, and are on whenever the ignition of the car is on. Anyway, although it is illegal to drive with just your "parking lights" on, in the US when your headlights are on, the "parking lights"(indicator lights by another name ) are always lit. In fact, other than the "brake light", in North America, all exterior lights are solidly lit when the headlights are on. So people here are used to seeing this. Now, so far... is this how it is in OZ?? If not, I can see the confusion. If so, I don't... please follow. In the US, many(but not all) motorcycles came from the factory with the front signals lit all the time, but for some odd reason not in the rear. The former is true because here in the States, it is illegal for the rider to be able to switch off the headlight. We don't even get a switch. The headlight is on all the time when the ignition is on, and since many US bikes do light the front indicators by default in concordance with the headlight.... it is very common for drivers to expect to see the front of a motorcycle with solid indicator lights. So, if we consider that in the US, most drivers are perfectly used to seeing an oncoming vehicle with the headlight lit, and the two side marker/blinker lights solidly lit... *not* indicating a turn, but instead the "corners" of the vehicle... at least here in North America, unless one of those marker lights is blinking, they will never think for a moment that the oncoming vehicle is turning. Futher, the two lit oncoming marker lights on either side of a headlight on a bike serve a safety purpose... they tell an oncoming vehicle that they are approaching a motorcycle, not a car with one headlight burnt out Assuming otherwise can make for a nasty lapse in judgement But again, not all motorcycles have the front marker lights lit, and almost none have the rear marker lights lit solid. So gizmos like the Kisan module allow you to light them at a lower intensity than full-bright without any wiring surgery. Although one can make a case for safety(i.e. more lighting = good)... one could also just say it's a farkle(farkle = bling ) .... and who's to say either is bad. It's just personal taste. However, I don't see how adding the ability to light the marker lights solid when the headlight is on as introducing any additional danger... at least not in North America, where this is the norm Maybe it would be elsewhere, but I still am unconvinced how a pair of solid amber lights on either side of a headlight would make one think the oncoming vehicle is turning. Heck, Semis(Lorries, Trucks) have amber indicator lights all over them like Christmas Trees, and I know they do in Europe... do they in OZ? Do people think they are potentially turning 3 directions at once with all those marker lights lit? But again, I suspect we have just gotten confused in the lexicon, and are probably talking about different things in the previous posts al

Thanks ....but I'm sure most of us didn't miss it, as we peruse both sites Good old Enzo, Jeff, Nemo, et al.... he says he still watches this site, but permanently excused himself some time ago We miss him though, and he's always welcome back al P.S. I agree with most of the posts that suggest the Dunstall type muffler, especially underslung like it is, probably isn't the best "look" for the bike. But then again, Enzo has never cared what anyone else thought though, even when he had his VW exhaust pods, then Supertrap "honeycomb" welded to the crossover, then "hornet stingers", and now this It's always fun to watch his adventures, and I commend him for being an individualist. ....although I have to admit, I don't understand his overwhelming fascination with the exhaust Many have probably thought the same of me and my fuel-system tinkerings as well though, so touche' Good luck Nemo!

How does it undermine blinkers, and decrease safety? I don't understand your example. Perhaps it's just an issue of what we are used to here, versus where you live?? Do cars not have running lights when the headlights are on down in OZ? Running lights are standard on the front of bikes in the USA, where typically they are not on the rear. They are on "solid", just as on a car, then the correct side blinks when it's time to turn, while the other side remains solid. Again, just as on a car when your headlights are on. I don't understand how having both left and right running lights lit would confuse a driver into thinking the MC was initiating a turn. Maybe wig-wag flashing lights might, but those are illegal, and not what we are talking about. I just don't see how this is confusing to other drivers, as it's the norm ....at least the norm here in the USA. IMHO, this increases visibility by putting more lighting into the equation. Maybe I'm misunderstanding?? YMMV al

Hrmmm, well we've had this discussion(how loud is too loud) with regard to the single-plate clutches(which you have) several times before And the consensus is that.... it's hard to say without being there, or having another single-plate bike there to compare But I will say that "in general" the sound and circumstance you describe is normal for your bike. It's "rattle" is going to occur just about opposite to every other Guzzi, especially V11 Sport variety, that you encounter. I guess the only way to reassure you is to suggest taking it to a competent dealer to see if the amount and timing of the noise is normal, or suggestive of a problem. Be sure to remind them that this bike has the single-plate clutch as compared to the standard dual-plate setup, but then again a "good" dealer should know this. I doubt we are going to be able to tell you for sure, without being there Some good threads on the subject: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2343&hl=clutch http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2659&hl=clutch http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2249&hl=clutch http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...=2017&hl=clutch al

Several places sell/sold them, here's one: http://www.mgcycle.com/externals.html al

What were the dyno results? al

Nope, just complaining that the three bolts that hold the intake manifold to the side of the cylinder(you can see two of them in your photo above) came as black oxide bolts on some bikes, like mine, and rust almost immediately..... I'm not talking about the blocking bolts you've used to seal the vacuum port. Zinc plated bolts should be just fine, or if you have SS, that's fine too. The one in your description/photo does seem to be a black steel one though, and if you don't care... don't worry about it. But it will rust. al

....backwards.... reverse "dual-plate" for "single-plate" in almost every location mentioned above, and you've got it right But to further clarify the issue, the single-plate clutch that is failing like gangbusters is on the cruisers, and is a different single-plate clutch than those found on the Tenni, Rosso Mandello, and Scura, which were the only V11 Sport models to come from the factory with single-plate clutch. All other V11 Sport/LeMans have the standard, tried and true, dual-plate system. It is normal for the dual-plate clutch to rattle, sometimes pretty loudly, when the clutch lever is pulled. The single-plate unit apparently rattles in the opposite scenario, i.e. is engaged and under the "right" load to let it rattle. al

OK, well just let us know. I should be in town, but there's a remote possibility we'll actually be in Seattle in early August. Hopefully we'll still be down here though, and can get together with everyone! Have fun! al

Sheesh, as an aside, I wonder why everyone else seemes to have gotten zinc plated bolts to hold their intakes on to the cylinders, where MG decided to give me 3 cruddy black oxide coated bolts that have rusted and weeped red oxide down the side of the cylinder everytime I washed the bike I replaced them with stainless bolts so no worries, but heres to the factory for just grabbing parts from the nearest bin al

Hope you sort it out, and that it turns out to not be a major issue But at least you haven't had this fella's experience.... so far: http://www.nmbmwmc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=490 Once again, I offer, "...see it's not just Guzzis that have QA and warantee issues" al

Well, let us know when you are in the Bay Area Jaap, and maybe we can all get together for dinner with Mike,Carl, Mark, Lex?? ... a bunch of us in the area after all. My number is 408-998-2919 Have fun al

I don't think John was giving you a hard time, just making a comment. It's been noted in a couple threads on this forum, and elsewhere, that the V11 Sport engine is known for oil starvation if the level isn't topped-off just right.... even under hard acceleration, as you point out Jim. The pickup is apparently up front, and doesn't swing. It's too bad we don't have a windage tray available, as that might help a bit ...or you could convert to a deep sump I guess. Would that help?? I had my light wink briefly on once in this very scenario, and I immediately shut it down to check things. It only takes a moment to cook the main bearings. Anyway, just a side-note, that many or prolonged wheelies with these bikes is perhaps a bit more risky than on some other bikes. But yes, if one considers that just a "cost of having fun", then absolutely, just go have fun After all, even worst case... it is fixable al

I did it two years ago with the addition of this: Kisan Signal Minder - Signal Canceller and Running Lights I think it looks really good, and adds a bit more visibility. al