al_roethlisberger

I refuse to comment on how many or what has come loose, so as not to invoke the various fastener stealing demons But yes, what Lex said.... Blue Loctite is your friend

All I did was to splice into the ground wire, and add another ground wire with an eyelet and bolt it under one of the couple screws/studs on the back of the tach. The problem is simply that the original case ground under the stud often works loose, so two is better than one That cleared up my ground problem... which may or may not be your problem. But I'd try that first. al

I know it's worked for others, but I'll just reiterate that I had absolutely no luck using vaccuum nipple covers, as the heat would dry out and crack the "correct size" and they'd expand, and the vibration would pop them off. I lost every pair I tried, and I had the metal spring clamps on them I highly recommend using a bolt with a crush washer to replace the nipples, and you'll be guaranteed to avoid any vacuum leaks. Just save the brass nipples for TB balancing. al

Thanks for the invite John .... and here's wishing continued success to the get-together (BTW, for those interested, John runs the Clubdesmo and MH900e discussion boards ) al

.....no end to the money I'm going to have to figure out, and adopt whatever business model you and Jean-Marc have going Paul al

From what I've read, the bevel drive is also not compatible with the gear ratio in the tranny with those models(2003+) that did not come with the angle-drive. So if you have a later model with the "bent" cable solution, you are pretty much stuck with that. There must be a way to make it work though... through careful routing, etc... as most don't seem to have this problem repeatedly Any ideas? al

So, I'm going to embark upon rewiring the headlight with relays to circumvent the stock wiring, as mentioned here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...3&hl=relay&st=0 But here's a question: When the high-beam is on, I assume(believe) that the low-beam is disabled. If so, with the new external work-around and in theory less of an issue with electrical capacity.... would it be beneficial to wire the system such that both the low and high filaments are on when the high-beam is on? al P.S. Thanks again, and credit to Gary Cheek for the diagram below:

Ahh, in the last couple years, they must have "made"(or discovered) a threaded version that fits Although they had a photo of a Rosso Mandello on the web-page at the time, they told me that I was the first customer with a V11 MG to buy a set, so they were unsure what to provide and gave me a compression set. I find that statement doubtful, as the V11 Sport had been out for 2 years by 2002, but whatever Glad to hear they have it more figured out now. al

Are they a "bolt on" affair, or are you going to have to change out the triples?? What type of bike are they from? al

Well, you can't make a much better case for the Accel-Pump feature than that! Thanks

Your specs are fine. See this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3235 I have had the Raceco specs for a year or more without problem, but as the engine loosens more and more, I may go back to the Euro spec(.006/.008). I won't go back to the emissions driven too-tight North American spec ever though. al

Nice... where'd you get those, and how much $$? al

Now, these are interesting... and "affordable" ....hrmmm http://www.cyclecat.com/OBM1-1.htm I wonder how much the calipers are.... probably still to expensive in combination with requiring new discs, but interesting none-the-less. al

What happened BTW... is the bike used, or had it been in an accident? ...or just a manufacturers defect? al

1) Nope, although the 2001/2002 models adopted the long bar damping rod, they all are basically the same with regard to threads, etc... 2) I dunno if there is a newer threaded model, but the model they sent me 2 years ago is a compression type, which works fine BTW 3) ...see above

Ahh, the "what the heck is that thing behind the crossover" thread again No worries, as mentioned, it is your emissions vapor recovery cannister. Here is a relevant recent thread on removing it and it's plumbing, if you so desire: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...139&hl=recovery Hope that helps! al

......or not Check your fluid level, and quality.... it could just be low. Also, depending on the age of the fluid, it may be a good idea to flush and refill the system. I do it yearly, and some do it more often if the bike is high mileage. But yes, if all is well, it should "adjust" itself. al

**IMPORTANT UPDATE** Well, I guess due to low turnout, coinciding with seasonal timing of the inception of this get-together(Winter basically ) .... and the unfortunate overlap with the newly minted "SF Bay Ducati Night" on the same schedule.... Doc Wong has confirmed that "officially" the SF Bay Area Guzzi Dinners up at Alices, are no more Now, that being said, he of course said that anyone can pick up the mantle to continue to organize them if they want... and asked me if I would like to. His only request was that if we do continue the meet(the last few I've missed BTW) that we consider moving it to the third week of the month, still preferably a Monday. He didn't say why, but I can guess that what with the several MC and Auto clubs he is in, any other times would prove a conflict. With that in mind, to maximize the potential attendence of any ongoing MG Dinner for the SF Area, I would heed that advice to allow others to attend that may also have the same conflicts. So, even with that in consideration, we are still considering asking the organizers of the "SF Bay Ducati Night"(which may be Doc himself, I'm not sure) if they would be willing to simple rededicate the meet&greet as the "SF Bay Italian" or "SF Bay European MC Night"... and just join forces. As mentioned earlier, I think this would be a lot of fun, and considering the relatively small Guzzi community, might make for a more "reliable" turnout of attendees. Anyway, I'll let you know as I know more. In the meantime, count on no one showing up at Alices this month, and maybe next, until then for the "Guzzi Night". It's too bad, but then again, it may morph into something even better. We'll see, and again, I'll let you know. al

...ahhh, I hadn't considered that I guess you'd just have to call them with the ID you need, and see what they can provide Good luck

Yep, unfortunately this is one of those very common "if it's gonna happen, it happens right away" failures/leaks/problems.... especially for the "fuzzy" black painted engined bikes. My timing cover gasket blew out within the first week, spewing oil all over the engine and my legs before I knew about it..... could have been tragic Hint for those worrying about it though: In hindsight, several of us who had the gasket blow, remember seeing a bit of gasket peeking out at the mating surface, making us think the gasket may have been torn during engine assembly So if you see a bit of gasket sticking out from under your timing chain cover, this might be an early warning. Anyway, apparently, along with the other problems associated with the "fuzzy" painted engines, this series of engines blows out this gasket quite often. There is a variety of of theories, paint in the fastener holes, on the gasket mating surface, new employee Guido the engine assembler being ham-fisted installing the gasket, etc... but I've not heard a "for certain" cause. However, although inconvenient, don't fret too much.... once the gasket is replaced, I've not heard of the problem repeating itself. Sorry to hear even the 2003 Nakeds are still exhibiting this problem, and many of the 2002 owners had to deal with it, even several on this forum You would think MG would have figured it out by 2003 after all the warantee repairs for this issue in 2002 Anyway, again, although inconvenient, it's not a big deal in the long run. Your dealer should be able to replace the gasket under warrantee in no time, as it's a minor repair.... and it shouldn't repeat itself. Good luck al

As long as the inner diameter is the same(or close) to the stock bars, it should be the same units as they sell for the MG bars.... as it's a rubber compression insert kit, not threaded into the bar end. al

....still lovin' mine I think the red stripe is an especially appropriate stying touch

I want a binding "none of the above" on the ballot.... always have wanted that choice, never will get it

OK, we'll see what happens here.... the forum blew up when I first posted this topic, but it posted without the first.... well, POST. Very weird. Anyway, basically, here's the jist of what I wrote: This last weekend I decided to check my TPS voltage, while balancing the TBs, etc.... just on a lark. The bike ran fine, but since I had never performed this check before myself, I thought it would be good to give it a try. Well, after several tries/methods of probing the purple/black wire on the TPS connnector with the positive lead of my DMM, and grounding the negative lead.... I got nuthin' Now, it could be that my cheapo DMM doesn't read milliVolts too well, but it does have a 2V range that is supposed to .... but I read nothing, and no change when the throttle was moved(with the ignition on, as per Guzziology). So, I would like to ask if someone can take that time to fully explain the procedure for testing the TPS voltage, just to make certain I(or others) don't overlook something in the process. Thanks! al

....we made a whale cry