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al_roethlisberger

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Everything posted by al_roethlisberger

  1. ...capped by a Sergio Mendes and Brasil66 shot
  2. Hi David, Hopefully someone will be able to help you out, and offer some advice. Maybe you can post some more information of the situation and dealer so that folks in the area might offer some perspective. Good luck al P.S. My bike spent a total of almost 3 months in the shop last year if I recall. In the end, it was really "fixed" by those in this community, including Mike Stewart coming over my house on his own time and tinkering. It's run like a top ever since Ok, well I do need a new battery
  3. Wow, that's really bad mileage. Are you going by the fuel-warning light as being "empty"?? Because on average it seems for most of us 120-140miles is where we've consistently seen the low-fuel light come on, and if so in reality you still have a 1-2 gallons at that point.... probably closer to 1. You have an '02, so you should have 5.69 gallon total capacity. Each bike and it's fuel sensor is probably a bit different in sensitivity, so you should try to measure how much fuel is left once your light comes on full bright... but I'd bet you have about a gallon, and then after it "runs dry" still about 100 ounces "trapped" on the right side of the tank that you can "milk" to get down the road a mile or three via the "sloshing" method. Some threads you may find interesting on the topic. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...uel%20pump&st=0 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...59&hl=tank&st=0 al
  4. Well, I don't think that modern bikes with multi-adjustable suspension is a "cop out"..... The difference is that in years past, the "multi adjustable" part was the rider, and his ability to get the most out of what was then relatively primitive suspension components. ...and in many respects, many riders were able to make that acclimation, but that's not optimal. While just like everything, more nerd-knobs does introduce more complexity and the opportunity for error/mis-adjustment, but it also offers quite a bit of opportunity to excell conversely. Todays suspension, even the most simple, is worlds better than that of the past, and the adjustments provided allow for tuning a bike's suspension to a riders needs, versus vice versa, moreso than has ever been available before.... and at that, with just some knob turning in one's garage, instead of requiring a suspension shop to rebuild the whole kit. I think that's a good thing al
  5. ..... ..... told ya! Ah well, blame it on Domino though, not MG so much. MG just buys the lot of current model switchgear from them, and Domino changed their design for some reason Glad to hear you had a chance to compare the bikes, and came away with a positive impression! al
  6. ....yessss, I can never have enough tools. So I'm the wrong person to ask this question of I'll ask Tim about the Binford set though
  7. In general, any aftermarket exhaust in theory can by "high mounted" with Sport1100 hangars, and the adapter plate that the new MG Ti kit uses to adapt the Sport1100 hangars to the V11 frame. I think the plates are about $40 from Moto International. See this thread for more info: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2913 al
  8. ....true, although it does "matter" a bit So just let us know what you find out though. I'm hoping they are(will be)
  9. So, until Gary(or I) make the op-amp setup to support an LED in the low fuel lamp location, I reassembled the lamp using a slightly larger "Euro" bulb as opposed to the micro bulb as used OEM. This slightly larger bulb seems to offer only a little more illumination, but having a larger exposure for the filament(via the larger bulb itself), seems brighter in the cluster. So this will work fine. It doesn't seem to get any hotter, and is still small enough not to touch the plastic sides of the warning light plastic housing.... so I expect no melting. It also didn't seem to get any hotter than the OEM bulb. I don't have/know the model#(I threw away the card, and the bulb is bare), but it's somewhere in between the teeniny OEM bulb, and a T 3/4 that one might use in turn-signal or instrument panel light. The next time I head to Kragens, I'll note the model number. As an aside though, another interesting LED website: http://www.superbrightleds.com/1157.htm al
  10. Now, just to be clear... question: Are they going to be a "Certified Power Commander Tuning Center" with the requisite software, etc.... http://www.powercommander.com/centers_wa.shtml ...or just a place with a dynomometer, and a gas-analyzer that will tinker with getting your PCIII "close"? Just checking as I've been hoping a real Tuning Center would show up in the Seattle area for when we move up there. Here's hoping they are al
  11. ....holy moly Belfast Are you trying to "catch up" on the post totals or something
  12. ....via the eBay link provided above, using something like Paypal I'm sure. It is 349 Euro Nice, but sheesh... that's whole lotta dough al
  13. I don't know what WA is like, but even in gestapo-CA, if you know the right people.... you can get it registered, with some effort. I believe that technically the G&B bikes can't be registered for road use here in CA(I could be wrong) but I recall the guys at the shop saying not to worry about it... al
  14. I *KNOW* my old Old's 98 used to run better after an oil-change... why? Well, I often ran it COMPLETELY out of oil, it leaked and burned so much ... that the hydraulic lifters would collapse and clackity-clack. It was fun to see just how abusive we could be to that car, and it just kept running and running. Ask me about the time my "engineered" fuel line exploded under the hood, or the time the dash caught fire while I was driving, or when we took it "mudding" where only 4x4's should go... what a great car. I eventually drove it to the junkyard ...with no mirror, or rear bumper anymore http://www.carsurvey.org/review_6531.html Wrong color below(mine was burgundy), but lose the wires, crunch in the rear end about a foot, put truck "mudder" tires on the back, and crack a window here and there.... oh and scratch some folks' phone numbers in the hood.... and that's my car al
  15. I haven't I still have my grand-dad's Ampex reel-to-reel from the mid 1960's ...it even has TUBES too ....and lots of tapes, including the soundtrack to "Hatari" and bands like "The Guess Who"
  16. I still have my KISS scrapbook from 5th grade! .... go KISS ARMY al
  17. I can't answer your question, but I did notice that my clutch slave cylinder(and associated internals) "squeaked" for a day after I changed out my hydraulic fluid. ...it then went away
  18. Some people have had success checking and replacing the rear bearings and inner spacer for correct length. It seems the brake groan can be a symtom of this issue. I also had great results by simply removing the rear caliper and cleaning the HECK outta it with brake cleaner.... you wouldn't believe the amount of gunk that came out One clean, it didn't groan or drag again for another year. al
  19. Although not certain... that is, I haven't jammed a feeler up there.... but I also think that on the Spine frames, the bearing/swingarm-end seems to be up against the back of the side-plates, so I don't think there is much room for play. Maybe someone knows for sure if the sideplates locate the swingarm almost exactly? It seems close from what I can remember... but I may be wrong. It would be nice though, and would settle concerns about centering via the pins. Anyone know for sure? Perhaps I'll attempt to check this evening if I remember. al
  20. .... keep in mind as well that the CD format has a hard frequency cutoff at 20Khz by design, which while being the theoretical upper limit of human hearing, studies have actually shown that humans can perceive higher frequencies as spatial locators.... or in "audiophile speak".... "soundstaging". And although vinyl recording does have some mechanical and electronic transformations(such as RIAA) that one could argue could be a barrier to a true reproduction, it is a simpler and more true representation of the original presentation. Of course, by definition analog is also more susceptible to environmental interference though, so unless one has a decent kit and recordings that are in good condition, it can sound disappointing especially in contrast with a CD. One observation I have had though is that one can spend quite a bit less to get what is considered a good and clean sound on a CD based system, but when one invests a bit more in a vinyl system, it can sound even better.... but at some point one realizes diminishing returns of course. Another observation I and others have made is that much of the general public perceives "clean" and "sharp" sound as the hallmark of accurate reproduction, and hi fidelity, and electronics stores capitalize upon this.... even if this doesn't really represent what the original performance really sounds like live. This is just like the TV shops turning the blue and brightness way up to make certain sets(usually the most pricey) stand out, but once home one realizes the picture doesn't look natural at all. I have a Michell Gyro SE, Clearaudio Aurum Beta S cartridge, with Accurus phono stage.... and am very satisfied and receive two new 45RPM "Best of Jazz" series special pressings a month. But then again, I have a couple thousand CDs as well so... But like all things, it's a matter of taste al
  21. .... I don't think Tim(Pashnit) intentionally 'limits' his reviews to California, other than perhaps for the fact that he lives in San Francisco, and his riding adventures and subsequent reviews 'radiated' from there Keep in mind too that he totally supports the site himself, other than recently setting up a donation system, and it simply started out basically as a blog for him to record his motorcyling adventures.... and grew wildly in popularity in the last few years as "Sport Touring" has come into it's own. In fact though, he has several good reviews of roads outside of California(such as his review of Hwy50 in AZ), and actively solicits contributions from other writers, especially for roads outside of CA. After all, Tim can only physically personally cover and review so many roads a year, and within a reasonable distance.... so it's just logical that since he lives here, that most of his reviews focus on the area If anyone has some good write-ups, along with photos, of other roads.... I'm sure Tim would love to hear from you. Feel free to drop him a line. He's a super nice guy. http://www.pashnit.com al
  22. ...although unrelated to this example specifically, similarly I had my newly ceramic(Jet-Hot) coated exhaust system smoke and smell upon the first fire-up of the engine after installation. "Fumes" just coiled off of the pipes, and the smell was quite acrid.... After it "burned in", it was gone... al
  23. http://www.powercommander.com/suppsoft.shtml The "old" PCIII breaks on every 500RPM up to the redline of the bike, where the USB version breaks on 250RPM... and in combination with 9 throttle positions, is quite a few data points. At least, this is what the maps show. I have no idea what really goes on inside the "brain" of the thing It takes a couple/three hours to run the automated Dynojet software/Dyno to get the map correct. al
  24. Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but those appear to be HUGE RPM jumps for the fuel/air data points on the FIM software. The regular PCIII is more granular than that, and the USB version doubles the granularity. Am I reading it incorrectly? ...or maybe the RPM points are selectable/adjustable?? But it IS nice to see the ignition curve Although, even the PCIIIusb will do ignition curves too, just not on the Guzzi model al
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