al_roethlisberger

Naw, I gotcha the first time ... I almost did the same a while back when mine came loose, but Mike advised against it because it would diminish the "shock absorbing qualities" by bolting them down. Although I suppose if one bolted through the rubber, and "loosely" tightened them such that the rubber mounts could still "wiggle" around the bolts, the end-result would still be fine Here is the previous thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ic=1868&hl=coil al

Gary, it sounds like you've been possibly getting the run-around elsewhere WRT getting your Ohlins suspension dialed-in?? ....and if so, I can understand your frustration. I don't think anyone here however has suggested(at least in this thread) things such as spending big money on getting a "factory tech" to get the suspension dialed-in though, and instead are simply suggesting the normal procedures for getting them setup properly... the same as would be used to get the Marz/Sachs to perform well also. I wouldn't suggest however that the need to buy new springs is unreasonable though if necessary, regardless of the suspension brand, or motorcycle. Every suspension class I have attended has pointed this out as one of the *first* "non adjustment" suspension modifications one should consider if it becomes obvious that the bike is undersprung for one's weight, and the suspension cannot be dialed-in at it's extremes. This is quite common in North America where we like our cheeseburgers ... but the bike(again, many brands) is sprung for a 170lb 20 year old So it's not unique to Ohlins, or Guzzi as a recommendation. It's just part of tuning the bike to one's needs/requirements. And other than perhaps gthyni's gloowing comments , I also don't think anyone here is pushing the Ohlins suspension, nor deriding the Marz/Sachs or arguing... just offering their experiences. At least it comes across that way to me As the self-help people often say, "I think we are in 'violent agreement'" The Marz/Sachs can and are just fine for most people, perhaps almost everyone, if setup properly. The Ohlins are nice too, and perhaps for some, 'overpriced' for the incremental improvement they offer , making their purchase perhaps a personal choice, not really an objective one.... and that's OK too. However, all that being said, I do believe that if one has a properly setup(by luck, or patience) set of Ohlins(or similar 'top shelf' suspension), the difference between them and stock suspension(even if setup correctly) is noticeable. Is that required to ride the bike well and comfortably in a street/real-world environment?? Perhaps not, but just 'noticeably' better ....that seems to be the consensus from many owners, even those that are plenty happy with the Marz/Sachs kit. And as an aside, even if one doesn't think it is necessary to replace a perfectly good working set of the Marz forks, or Sachs shock.... I *do* recommend shopping for an Ohlins, Penske, et al... part if the OEM fails or gets damaged. Because, unless one buys a used replacement, the cost of a new Marz fork or Sachs shock from Guzzi just doesn't make sense when one can get the 'better' suspension in the aftermarket for about the same, or just a bit more. But as always, if possible I simply recommend a test-ride on all the possible setups to satisfy one's own curiosity. In then end, it's a personal preference, and for many, again... the Marz/Sachs setup may be just fine, especially if one is a "lighter" rider(which I am most definitely NOT ) One does not 'have' to have the Ohlins to have a bike that handles well, that is true. But it can be 'nice' to al

......well, just let me know what you find/think Jason Until then, I'll just leave my dash apart, as I hate taking the fragile plastic apart multiple times. al

If you have one of the later cable housing that has a metal "bend" above the transmission, then yes, this is a somewhat "chronic" problem several people have noted. Although I believe the with correct cable routing(to reduce stress) and liberal lubrication, it has been ameliorated to some degree. But don't fret, even the earlier models that have the bevel drive speedo cables have issues, as the plastic bevel drives often explode if not installed "just right". ...and no, the cables are not interchangeable. Apparently the 2002 and earlier, and 2003+ transmissions have a different drive ratio in the transmission for the different cable. So you are stuck with the gremlins of whatever cable type your V11 was born with. ...at least, that's what I've heard in the various posts people have made here WRT speedo cable failures al

....it's super simple. Just remove everything associated with the cannister, by following the lines. In the end, you'll end up with two brass vacuum taps/nipples on the throttle bodies that you'll need to block by: 1) Cap with a bolt(by unscrewing and SAVING the nipple for future TB balancing duties) which is what most people do or 2) "cap" the nipples by running a new short vacuum line between both brass nipples on the TBs You'll also end up with a vent line coming from under the tank that used to go to the vapor recovery cannister. You simply need to route this down under the bike somewhere... anywhere you like. That's it. It should take you all of about 30 minutes, if you take your time al

...yeah, I'm not so sure I like the dual-outlet on one side though I just can't be pleased I guess

....yeah, I had the coil plate come loose(as have others) as well, although it was predicated by my torqueing it down and allowing the glued-on disc to twist the rubber... and that stress led to premature failure I used some "flexible" super-glue to fix it, and so far they've stayed together. This has happened to lots of other folks too, and I think it's just one of those things that happens every so often, and should be checked as part of the yearly check-up. I would be careful about mounting the plate rigidly after failing though, as the coils really should be isolated(as much as possible) from vibration I'll have to check my oil cooler lines, although I too have given them a sidelong glance in regard to clearances/routing al

Ha, and I thought "the battle had been joined" betwixt you and I on the "fields of eBay" Well well... $950 and still below reserve eh? I guess that answers my question, I won't bother. What with $1000+ for the kit(which BTW is $1025 brand new with no calipers), then $300 for installation, $300 for new disks, and maybe even $250 for a new master cylinder.... uhhh yeah, we're getting into stratospheric costs, when the stock brakes are pretty good after all Ah well, I got my hopes up.... but alas, that's just too much moola Maybe I'll just get the calipers you got one day, with better disks if/when they wear out ....or of course, there are those new top-shelf Marz forks that Todd has coming to Guzzitech, that are already setup for radials al

Thanks for the insight guys, I'll await your further theories The 2003+ senders(that are part of the in-tank pump assembly) definitely do not use a float though. It is a long wire, with what looks like capacitor at the end. Here is a photo:

A lot of Moto Guzzi dealers(such as ours in San Mateo) do have the system to reprogram the ECU(at least the fuel/air curve anyway, not sure about ignition) but few have the additional equipment such as a Dyno, or experience(in North America anyway ) to do much more than get the CO correct through the use of a tail-end gas analyzer. With that in mind, most can only get the bike to "run OK" and within spec after various modifications, as opposed to really tuning it optimally for your goals. This is why most owners in North America have opted to use the PCIII in conjunction with the ECU, since the PCIII Certified Dyno Centers are much more plentiful than a shop that can tune the ECU. Apparently, elsewhere... especially in Europe, there however are instead quite a few shops that have extensive experience in reprogramming the 15M, so the requirement for the PCIII may not be as popular But in my experience, the PCIII is a good alternative if one cannot find a shop with said experience, or equipment. al

Not sure off-hand, although I'm sure a quick Google would turn up a quick explanation... But I used the synthetic fluid from Valvoline, that mixes with either a DOT 3 or 4 system(but is rated as neither), and is rated for very high temperatures, and is resistant to hydrophilia. http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/pr....asp?product=51 I have no idea how good it is, but it seems to work fine al

Anyway .... goodness, I was just suggesting new springs might make them work optimally Even the Marz are typically setup for a 170-180lb rider, and without inserting spacers, aren't adjustable for preload(2002 and earlier)... and as such also can benefit from new springs. I think all things being equal, that is, both the Marz and Ohlins have the correct spring rate for the rider, and are setup "close enough" WRT comp/rebound damping, the Ohlins will come out ahead. Is that enough justification for someone to splurge for the Ohlins if they already have the Marz and are more-or-less happy with them?? ...well that's a personal choice, and in many cases the difference is probably not great enough for some to want to deal with the hassle and cost. I can understand that. I have no stock in Ohlins, and know for a fact that I do not ride beyond the capabilities of either the Marz nor Ohlins, but since this is my only bike... and I enjoy "tinkering"... it was a personal choice to change out the suspension... which BTW, I had always intended to do once I was able. But I'm not trying to sell anyone on the Ohlins... nor deride the OEM Marz/Sachs combo, as many are satisfied with the performance of the latter. As always, YMMV al

....are you certain WRT the disks needing replacement as well?? The only reason I am incredulous, is that this kit is supposed to be a "drop in" replacement from what I've read, and is for street applications al

Yeah, I thought about that .... but dunno Anyone else have any "bright"(no pun intended) ideas as well ...otherwise, I guess I can just put the incandescent back in, but alas, that is where I really wanted the brightness and a more binary lighting.... as opposed to a gradual burn from dim to full-on. al

So, I'm not sure if my question was really answered or not.... can the "conventional" Gold Series Brembo master cylinder/lever our bikes come with stock work with the radial calipers? If so, is there a significant performance(or other) tradeoff by not using a radial MC? If not, what size radial MC/lever is required? I looked at a couple sites, and there are various bore/stroke sizes. al

.... this is actually a classic sign of being undersprung, especially if one has cranked up the preload or compression damping to counteract the undersprung shock/forks Also, undersprung forks tend to pack down. I'd be very interested to hear how your impression of the 2002 versus 2001 handling changes once the Scura suspension is setup for your weight. al P.S. Just to be clear for those reading this thread, all 2002+ V11 Sport models such as the LeMans, Sport, Naked, Scura, etc.. have the slightly longer wheelbase. It's not just the LeMans, although interestingly that might have been a good marketing move to differentiate the LeMans from the Sport/Naked had they only applied the longer frame to the LeMans. Ah well....

Ok Al, we're not gonna do it :!: Since your getting impatient, you go ahead & do it.That way it will be just like you want it to be *shrug* ....OK Anyway, Gary, where did you pick up those sockets? Thanks al

Well, let us know when you will know if you are going to do this or not.... and if not where I can source the relay sockets that were used. If you aren't going to do this as a whole kit any time soon, I'd like to get some of the sockets so I can build my own harness Thanks al

Well, I received and installed the LEDs from LEDtronics: http://www.led.net/datasheets/Pages/miniat...roducts/12a.htm They are a perfect fit and replacement for the OEM incandescent bulbs, and quite a bit brighter. Although I also bought some white LEDs from them, I ended up installing the correctly colored LEDs, as it made for a more true and intense color than the white. And in some cases, the vibration has rubbed small places through the color in the idiot light lenses, and white would show through. With the colored LEDs, this was not an issue. However, interestingly, the only LED that has proven to be a problem is the fuel idiot light... the light that inspired this whole project It turns out that even with the tank full(and the incandescent bulb dark) there is about 1V on the socket for the low fuel idiot light, and that is apparently more than enough to fully light the W203CO3K-14V Orange LED. With the tank nearly empty, this light has about 2V across the terminals. So, with the LED, it's apparent high-efficiency allows it to light full on, even with the tank full So here's a question, I wonder how I can make the LED only light(see voltage) when there's say..... greater than ~1.75V? I would assume there would be a transistor?? I could attach inline to fix this, or maybe a different voltage LED from the LEDtronics catalog? Jason?? al

Depending on what his reserve is, I think I may actually go for these. I just called Lindemann and it's pretty cheap to have them swap the ends. BTW, I think the calipers do come with the auction, as the auction is titled "Ohlins, Radial Caliper Fork Bottoms & Calipers" ..but I have a note to the seller to confirm. WRT whether the average street rider needs these, I agree that the answer is almost certainly "naw" as the stock brakes are very good... but not having the radial brakes when I got the new Ohlins front end last Winter was one small little regret I had, since I spent all that $$ anyway. Of course the option wasn't there originally, but this might be a good way to get it done affordably now. We'll see what the reserve turns out to be though, if it's too high I won't bother. al

Hrmm, looks interesting. I wonder if it requires the "radial" master cylinder/lever be fitted as well(and what they cost), or if one can use the radial calipers with the "standard" master cylinder on our bikes now.... and if so, if there is a performance trade-off using the old master cylinder? Also, I wonder what it would cost to have Lindemann(or similar) change these out? They don't state the reserve, but if it's not too much more than the starting bid, this isn't too bad of a deal, especially since it includes the calipers. hrmmmmm ...it's also too bad that our OEM Ohlins fork feet have the brake bracket cast-in, instead of modular like these(and others). If so, it would have simply required changing the bracket. al

Ahh, very good, I didn't see those photos Keep in mind though that the headlight bucket on the LeMans bikes is very different than the Sports, and there really isn't much of any room in there with the reflector. I think that one would have to have the relays mounted/lashed somewhere up in the fairing. So, is someone going to offer this as a kit then? That's the way it sounds. If so, I'll just wait instead of rigging it up myself. I think the LeMans setup would require a bit different hookup based on the slightly different wiring/harness design, but I can redo the wire ends myself, so that's no problem. I emailed MPH about their kit they mentioned they were making, but never heard back al

Why, other than aesthetics? Theoretically two outlets could produce more HP. But that is not an absolute, and may even be hogwash, but I believe it is true. I certainly would not put a Quota exhaust on a V11S, but I might put a V11 S or Jackal exhaust on a Quota. It is also nice to have the sound balanced to your ears like properly positioned stereo speakers. But, I found that sound felt more like it was coming from underneath the bike than to the left of the bike. Still if the sound was balanced it would increase the pleasure factor to me. yes Thanks for saving me the time to type that out It's mostly aural and visual aesthetics for me. After all, it's a V-Twin, which IMHO seems silly to not have a dual-exhaust. al

...along with the parts, wires, and relays... I think it would be better if sockets for the two relays could be used as opposed to hard-wiring between the terminals of the relays themselves. This would allow much easier servicing in case a relay died, and reduce confusion. I'm going ot see if I can find a socket, or maybe a salvage block from a V11 to do this.... and mount it up in the fairing. al

......... oh good lord Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanyway, I dropped them an email asking if a dual-outlet version may be available, and if they've improved the welds any. I'll let you know if they respond al