al_roethlisberger

I don't have a recording handily available of the Leo Vince cans, but I've been very happy with them Nice deep tone..... and not horribly loud like some. al

OK, well I ordered a few of the LEDs from the two vendors I linked to above, and will report if: 1) They even work 2) They work well in said application, especially for the low fuel light al

Yeah, whilst not "as common" on the late model V11 bikes, the front mounted fuel-pump(in Jaap's example) was used on the Sport1100 and Centauro. I've seen several Tenni's with this arrangement as well. As discussed in this old thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=894&hl= It is an odd arrangement to see on a V11 for sure though I think MG was aware of the vapor lock issue, and that along with the "variable" assembly line parts and techniques at the factory(whatever Luigi grabbed and ws handy ) ... the fuel pumps were in at least 3 different locations(out front, under the spine, above the spine) through the V11 Sport life up to 2003 when they finally went with the new in-tank systems. al

I think this is a great idea, and offer from Bruce. If anyone has their broken springs still lying about, we should take Bruce up on this offer to have the springs looked at Thanks

....yes, it's called "analysis paralysis" (note: the root of anal-ysis) But much like Francesco, I usually end up talking myself around in circles(perhaps in the same thread ), sometimes with a little help, and figure out the best course of action No offense taken though, as I have no preference to the lidless versus pods performance comparison. I'm sure it depends on many things, although all things being equal, the lidless design may indeed make more power ....after all, a while back during a conversation with one of the MG LSR guys, he noted that they increased the airbox on one bike to improve power. And of course "power" is somewhat subjective, as is one talking torque or HP, and where in curve? For different people, that answer may vary... and I suspect just like other performance bits, the pods and lidless airbox probably deliver just as differently as well. Anyway, in my case, it was an easy choice to go with the pods(which wasn't my first preference BTW, I had an early FBF "ring" that I mated with a K&N flat filter, when FBF was first making them ), as I wanted the "bulk" that is the airbox gone from under the tank to allow me to do some other things, and to clear up the airflow, et al... under there So pods it was. But humorously, I didn't like the traditional reason people go for pods, which is to get rid of the "ugly" and "bulky" airbox sidecovers. Call me stupid, but I like them! So I put in pods, but went to the trouble to make a new frame just to support the sidecovers, without an airbox! Here is a whole thread/poll on the subject I started last year: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...pic=918&hl=pods For the moment the sidecovers are off though, in preparation for my engine case swap.... and I've gotten more used to the "naked" pod look. But I suspect I'll swap back and forth over time Again, I say just choose the configuration that appeals to one's taste, and the small HP/Torque difference that may exist is so minimal that it's just not a major issue. BTW, in regard to Enzo/Nemo's bike, doesn't he have his pods mounted directly to the throttle bodies/intakes, versus reutilizing the black plastic intake runner that as stock goes into the airbox from the TB? I ask because, although I know many people(esp Europeans) have mounted the filters directly to the TB/Intake, I've always heard that the bike will run better/smoother(WRT the airflow turbulence issue) if the pods are *not* mounted directly to the TB/Intakes. In my case, the odd K&Ns that I have, have the "intake runner" already molded into the filter body, so I didn't use that runner. But if one just had the plain conical/cylindrical K&Ns, there perhaps may be more turbulence issues at the intake/butterfly as compared to an airbox equipped bike, bike with filters that have the runners(like mine), or those mounted to the OEM plastic intake tubes ....versus directly to the TBs Who knows though, perhaps it's just a wive's tale, as I have no objective and technical data on the subject.... just what I've heard al

Dunno...but maybe you will ! What tyre pressures do you run? Al, the ordinary Diablos are pretty good grip, much better than 020's (wear a bit quicker) - Corsas are more track focused. I don't know, but I thought Corsa profile's same as Diablo, just softer compound. Handles better on Diablos than 020's anyhow ...... and.......170/60 turns better again... KB Regarding the Diablo versus Diablo Corsa, that's a good question If the profile is the same, and the Diablo is softer than the 020, then that might be a good compromise. Then there's the Diablo versus Avon question in regard to profile as well al

Hey, and there's the infamous "tip over valve" that a couple people have asked people to describe so they could locate it BTW, I can't believe you did this with the tank still on I hope your fingers didn't get too smashed Good report and pics

Perhaps true, I dunno.... although I will offer another point of view, from Mr. Ferracci himself who said he can get another few HP over his airbox lid by adding pods, but they were still working on it That's paraphrased from their article/ad in Moto Euro magazine a while back featuring a V11 Sport they hopped up for a customer to promote their go-fast parts. To me though, it's more about the aural and visual aesthetics one prefers, and I bet the performance differences are pretty small. I will however trumpet the advantages of cleaning up the airflow and space under the tank by removing the airbox ...and although I haven't compared how "loud" the "honk" is with the lid removed, the pods aren't very loud at all IMHO. Just do what you think looks and sounds cool, and you won't really lose anything to the other solution. al

Mike, Given your testing and feedback that the Pirelli Diablo Corsa really works well on the 2002+ bikes with the longer wheelbase, quickening their steering up almost on-par with the earlier bikes... I wonder how the profile of the Avons compares? I've also heard some good things about the Avons, but want a faster turning tire after the Bridgestone 020s wear out, and had been leaning toward the Pirellis(realizing I won't get the same mileage out of Corsas versus the Avons). Any experience, thoughts? al

Another image, with dimensions:

Well, it looks like the closest LED incandescent replacement I could find was: http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?&handler=d...12&N=0&crc=true Unfortunately these are a 10mm base, which is pretty standard for instrument lights, but our bikes use the tiny "Euro" ~5mm base light, which is about the same height, but(obviously) about half as wide. I suppose it's possible that one is made, but I didn't see one in this catalog I could make one of the other lights work, but that would require a new socket, and I really didn't want to cut into the wiring for this relatively minor thing.... after all, the standard lights DO work. But ...well, as you may recall, this thread started with the 'discovery' that the low fuel idiot light seemed too dim in combination with the 2003 tank(and requisite sender) that I retrofitted. Well, stupid me, I tested this initially with just battery power, and the engine not running. Heh, start the engine(and run the RPM up a bit) and guess what?? ...yep, bright as can be I thought this might be the case when I first started this thread, but didn't get to test it until tonight. uhhhh so, nevermind But I still think it might be a nice idea to replace the incandescents with LEDs if possible. These look interesting: http://www.acscontrol.com/pages/products/L...Wedge_Lamps.htm http://www.led.net/datasheets/Pages/miniat...roducts/12a.htm BTW, the exercise wasn't a complete waste of time as I at least got the opportunity to epoxy up the cracked plastic lamp holder Below is the bulb, the OSRAM-2721 with the miniature base.... Category: Miniature (5mm base) Volts: 13.5 Amp/watt: .09A / 1.22W Base: W2.1d Glass: T-1-1/2 Filament: C-2V Lumens: MSCP:.57 (candle power) Notes: Indicator and Panel al

Wow, that looks awful.... looks like a lot of water intrusion and corrosion. I wonder if the faired bikes' instruments last longer in this regard as they are shielded from the elements to some degree? al

Gotta run, so can't write a tome this time But first: Forum Air Filter & Intake FAQ All you have to do is remove the tank, take out the airbox, lash the air temp sensor to the frame of the bike(after removing it from the airbox, and lash it as close to the intakes as possible for a best reading), and extend the crankcase vent hose to vent under the bike. That's the removal of the airbox portion. Then, buy the appropriate filters and clamp them onto the intake runners. That's it There's not really a "How To" as it really is a simple task, and if you have everything ready, should take about 30 minutes to an hour to complete. Now, if you also have aftermarket exhausts/crossover, and you combine this new modification, you may have to adjust your map at the dealer or via a PCIII, as it will lean out. Hope that helps. Do a search for "pods" and you'll get loads of results. al

.....eewwwwww I like this place If they have a drop-in replacement that will fit, one could easily replace the whole set of idiot lights with no surgery. I like I'll have to do some measuring later to see which might fit. But from a casual glance, I don't know if they have one that's small enough. And, yep on the bright issue... but then again, the only light I'm planning on testing right off is the fuel light, and I want that bright If they are too bright, I'll only use them for lights that are critical to notice, and are infrequently on, like fuel, oil, battery... I guess I'll just have to test and see. Thanks for the link Jason, that's very very helpful! al

...now, one might be able to adapt something like this I'm thinking. http://www.customdynamics.com/licenseplate...%20Tag%20Screws They are slightly oversized, but if one could get them ground down, or out of their bolt housing, these would be ideal to retrofit. I'll have to zip down to my local "Kragen" auto parts store, and their goofy hot-rod aisle to see if these are hidden somewhere amongst the fuzzy dice al

...well, the incandescent light in the "idiot lights" assembly is teen-iny... I mean TINY. It's an all glass bayonet type, and I doubt anyone makes a direct LED replacement. There are however, several LED lights out there if you wanted to retrofit the wiring... although the OEM white plastic holder is keeee-rap, so be careful. Mine is falling apart, so I'm going to glue it up before reassembly. al

...hrmm, something like this. I wonder if these guys, or a similar vendor might have a light that's a drop-in replacement http://www.ledcorp.com/catalog.html http://www.theledlight.com/ledbulbs.html WRT the sender, keep in mind that the 2002 and earlier senders are different than those on the newer in-tank system. Now, electrically they may work the same , but it may be possible that they have different resistance/outputs and is why my low fuel bulb which was always plenty bright with the old setup, is now dim with the 2003 tank I retrofitted. I have to do some more testing though.... al

Yeah, I thought about ordering those, but didn't want to have to wait weeks for fabrication and shipment from Germany Plus they are expensive al

Yeah, I fixed mine too. I just "tee-d" into the ground wire, that was loose under the stud, then grounded it up under one of the screws in the housing with an eye on the end of the wire. Works fine now! al

Excellent Mike Haven at MPH was supposed to also be working on a similar plug-and-play kit for this. I don't know if they've finally got the product/kit ready al

I installed the used M Toby damper last night, and it works fine. It is a slightly larger diameter than the Bitubo, but fit the OEM bracket by expanding it a bit. Unfortunately I don't have a model number, and I think this an old unit, but at least if someone is curious.... M Toby did have one that fit, and if you contact them, they may still. al

Yep, these were posted by Zeb last week I think as a heads-up that they were on eBay, and we chatted about how they may not fit a V11 without some work/adaptation.... it just depends Here's the deal.... the dimensions of all the mounting points will be fine, and they will install without problem to the frame of the V11. *BUT* MG used at least 2 different swingarm pivot pin sizes on the threaded portion of the pin over the production range of bikes during the 90's/00's using this particular sideplate. The V11 swingarm pivot is 22mm, while the earlier Sport1100 is 21mm, and I think there was yet one other size. The actual diameter of the portion of the pin that inserts into the swingarm bearing is the same though. If these plates you bought from eBay do have the wrong sized threaded hole for your pins, you have two options: 1) Machine and tap the holes larger on the plates 2) Buy pins from an older model that fit the holes I had my holes machined, but either option is fine. The only real issue with buying new pins is that you are likely to wait a while for delivery as MGNA has the pins, but not the lock nuts I heard. The challenge with option 1 is that the machinist is likely to bugger up the finish on the plates(as they did on mine a bit, but got the work free.... so it's OK ). With that in mind, if you know you have to machine them, get that work done before you have the plates powder-coated/polished/painted. In my case, I didn't know they wouldn't fit until afterwards Here's the thread on the subject: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2736 al

Thanks Jason ...but here's a perhaps naive question: I wonder if anyone makes an LED replacement bulb that could just be fitted into the socket in the dash? I haven't looked at the idiot lights yet, but if they are just essentially automotive bulbs, then I wonder That would be the easiest of course. The other question I wonder about is why with the 2003 sender, my light is so dim. I need to do some more testing to see if this condition is consistent. But if so, I wonder if the resistance of the idiot light circuit is different on 2002 and earlier bikes, than with the new sender? al

...the tach is electronic, no gears But yep, the Veglias are flakey.... always have been. I'm on my second. You'll probably warantee on in your bike's lifetime, or get one secondhand later... I haven't heard of any real problems with the new black ITT? gauges though. al

So, has anyone replaced any of the dash "idiot lights" with an LED? Is there an "easy" way?? I ask because, although my fuel warning light was already a bit dim before... for some reason with the new 2003 tank and it's sender, it's even more dim at its full brightness. So, I was thinking about replacing the incandescent bulb with an LED. The warning transition would be more binary with an LED, versus "dim" to "bright" as stock, but I think I might like that better anyway So... anyone?