al_roethlisberger

...certainly "doable" in 3-5 weeks, but you'll be busy if you really want to take in the sites and local flavor of all your destinations. I did a big swath of central Europe by backpack/train in 1998, over 2 weeks. We started in Amsterdam, went to Berlin, Prague, Verona, up to Luxembourg, then back to Amsterdam(and took a weekend in Paris). Well, we saw it all alright... and had a great time. But we were always on "the move" it seemed, and was fun in it's own way. But I swore that the next time I would pick a city or two, three max, and use no less than 2 weeks just for that, so I could take in more of that locality. I guess it all depends on one's goals. I'm still glad we did the "whirlwind tour" in 98, as it gave me a good foundation for future trips. But I won't do that again. Regarding avoiding the desert in midsummer from Yosemite to Vegas... forget it I mean honestly. Not only is all of Nevada desolate(but beautiful!) desert, but so is much of Utah. So you'll have to spend a good amount of time in some hot weather. But don't worry about it. The desert is gorgeous in its starkness, and especially as you traverse the high-desert, it's very interesting to note the vegetation, geography, etc... and it gets COLD at night. Neat.... Utah's dry lake-beds(Nevada too) will also be quite intriguing. I rode my old FJ1200 back and forth through Nevada and Utah in July... about as hot as you can get, and it was fine. You'll be even better set in your air-conditioned RV Don't avoid the desert, embrace it. After all, basically from South to North on the West of the Rocky Mountains, you are traversing dry ancient inland seas and lakebeds. Very neat If you can work it into your plans, travel Hwy 50 in Nevada back to the SF Bay Area. It is known as the "Lonliest Highway in America" and it's one of my favorites Check out this link: http://www.pashnit.com/roads/Nevada/Hwy50.htm http://www.pashnit.com/roads/Nevada/Hwy375.htm ...he's even riding an old FJ1200 like I had. I rode this same route, even down to visiting the Alien Cafe near Area 51 al

Someone also posted a great suggestion for the OEM plastic dipstick, and that is to drill a couple/three holes in the stick, for the high, low leve marks, and maybe somewhere in the middle.... and it will be much easier to see the oil level. This is actually what Honda has done with the transmission dipstick on my new Pilot, and it makes it much easier to see the level al

....hrmm, forgot about that As per Jaap's question above, we've been pretty busy and a lot on our minds lately, so the "dinner" completely slipped my mind So, no, unfortunately I don't think I will be making it... just don't want to tempt fate and all ...can't say I blame her The delivery/c-section is scheduled for next Wed, June 16th at 5pm, so keep your fingers crossed for good luck.... just a week to go al

Heh, we'll be in Seattle in mid-July ourselves, house shopping and just looking around You'll have to let us know your plans to see if we'll be where you are, or if you'll be in the SF Bay Area when we are back home. If we can, we should definitely try to coordinate with Mike, Carl, myself, etc.... to get together for dinner when you are down here al

This custom piece sounds very interesting. As you continue to tinker and fine tune, and you find you really like how it works, maybe you could put together some working drawings and some of us could have the part made at a machine shop out of aluminum? Thanks al

F344... Go to www.guzzitech.com and contact Todd Eagan(RacerX). He is the Guzzi community's unofficial emissary to Dynojet and the Power Commander, and works closely with them in regard to the product. The PCIIIusb(and old PCIII) will work fine with all modern Guzzis. The only issue is actually with older ones that use the old 16 ECU, although Todd has had some small production custom runs made for these bikes. Anyway, Todd can explain everything to you, get you the BEST price on a PCIII, and probably preload a premade map that will be darned close to what you need, that will work fine until you have an opportunity or desire to get a custom map made. al

Unless you have an O2-sensor how would the EFI know? And even if it did an adaptive EFI usually adapt within the limits of normal variations in fuel, air, temperature etc. Modifications on the engine requires a new FI-map. That's correct.... we have an "open loop" EFI system on the V11 Sport/LeMans(at least all I've seen), so other than engine temp, air temp/pressure, RPM, and throttle position, the ECU is pretty "blind" as to what the actual results of it's actions are. I think the new Breva may have a closed loop system like most other modern EFI systems, and this would be beneficial for sure. I also thought I had seen/heard of a late model V11 shown with a closed loop system somewhere, but haven't heard that it's made it to production. We do however have the bung in each header for an 02 sensor, and if you install an aftermarket ECU like Cliff's MyECU that supports them, you can make a closed loop system. Carl Allison is pursuing this route the last time I heard. al

...well again, not too much "leaning" in Kansas al

Hi Wes, ...yeah, we had figured this was the only real issue with the Corbins, and is why I am frustrated with them not putting a little effort into researching what it only a minor issue.... *sigh* Even though I'm sure the Guzzi seat sales are small potatos in relation to many of the other make seats they sell, they'd surely sell a bunch more if they would fix the 2002+ seat issue Coincidentally, we just discussed this yesterday in this thread: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2939 And yeah, I figured as much with regard to the 1994 Ballabio And Francesco, the Tenni is technically a LeMans, although it's officially a model of it's own, so neither a Sport nor LeMans

If I'm reading your description correctly, this sounds like the oil crankcase vapor recovery circuit, which goes up into the spine, then return out of a fitting out of the frame on the left side. Anyway, yes, this is a common area(s) to leak. Typically it is a problem with the fitting simply not being torqued down, and/or the crush washers not sealing for some reason. By tightening it, and replacing the washers, it should have fixed the problem. But it could be that the line or mating surface has an issue. It shouldn't be a major problem for the dealer to get right after a few tries, so I wouldn't worry too much about it, especially if you have a good dealer as you indicate al

heh heh... yeah, Kansas... the land of winding mountain roads Well, the V11 Forum is linked from the MGNOC website, and I sent him an email on the subject last year..... al

Dan Prunuske is our "Guzzi Source" for appropriate relays He used to promote, and was the primary source for, the Bosch relays for the Guzzi community.... but now he has switched to the GEI units after pioneering their use, as they are rated for higher amperage. Although not every socket on the V11 requires a 5 pin relay, just use all 5 pin units to avoid any confusion, and for interchangeability. It won't matter functionally. http://www.dotnet.com/~pyrodan/relay.htm http://www.dotnet.com/~pyrodan/ al

Absolutely ...however, if one takes the link to the thread on Sport-Touring.Net above, it will take you to the thread where Tim asked the community for their opinions on the subject as well. They were varied of course, but many helped him verify the "Top 5" based on general consensus Here is the direct link: http://www.sport-touring.net/cgi-bin/msgbo...=ST;f=5;t=10864 al

Not bad, but for my tastes, that would be a bit too low and forward. I think for most folks(based on what we've seen here), a basically vertical drop of an inch or so would be ideal al P.S. Just as an aside, since Frank rides a LeMans, and is so active in the MG community(MGNOC Director)... I wonder why he's not on this forum? (or is he? )

Well one bright spot is that once you get the "old" aluminum brackets replaced with the "new" steel versions.... they should never break again al

First leak: Sounds like your front leak is the timing cover gasket, which on the "fuzzy" engine paint models, is very typical. Mine "blew out" in the first few hundred miles as well. While you can seal it as suggested by Belfastguzzi, many of the them(like mine) were actually torn and BLEW OUT the side and spewed oil all over the side of the engine. So, if you see any bit of the gasket protruding from the seal, I would say get it replaced. Then when it's being done, make certain the mating surfaces are free of "fuzzy" paint before reassembly. Second leak: Could be a number of things depending on where the leak is coming from In my case, it was transmission rear seal was leaking, replaced under warrantee. al

...and probably make those boots even more comfortable too

I think you did a great job Perhaps it seems like major surgery, but if you plan to use the bags pretty regularly, I can't see that it really matters as the brackets are going to stay in place most of the time. And as mentioned, you can always get a spare tail section in the future if you like Anyway, I like how it brings the bags in closer The only thing I don't like is the exhaust hangar extensions that seem a bit less well crafted than the rest of the system ... and ... those bags are HUGE I think personally I would have opted for the next size down But to each his own. My friend had the same boats on his VFR al

.... I lie prostrate in obsequious supplication

I guess one can't really complain about the $15 price of the Evoluzione kit .... but other than fitting the whole Centauro setup, it would indeed be nice if someone made a more "comprehensive" kit that included: 1) Mounting in the original peg location(avoiding the requirement to "piggyback" onto other locations like the brake pivot, and exposure of blemished paint) 2) Reworked Length(Adjustable?) Shift and Brake Levers 3) Forged CNC'd Levers for additional stregth over the cast OEM parts In theory, a set like this shouldn't be "too much" money, but unless enough could be fabricated in bulk, they might be pricey for initial startup I've thought about what it would take several times, but nothing beyond idle consideration. Although I'm fine with the stock setup myself generally, I think the community could use an alternative to the basic, but certainly workable and affordable , Evoluzione kit. Perhaps if nothing ever is developed(although I suspect a set will by someone one day given the number of riser kits out there now for instance)... perhaps I'll look into it later this or early next year, just as a neat project. Who knows al

...and only a smooth clear shield, as opposed to an actual lens on the V11 Naked(Sport) bikes It's too bad they used such an unusual piece of glass for the LeMans fairing. al

Apologies for restarting the poll, but it was correctly pointed out to me that mixing kilometers and miles for the poll was a bad idea and might skew the results of the survey. So with that in mind, apologies in advance to those global members that read their "mileage" in kilometers, but I have standardized this poll on miles. And for those members, I would like to ask that they convert and estimate their "mileage" in miles for the purpose of this survey. Hopefully, with this survey, we can get a general idea when these springs typically fail. Also, if you have had a repetitive failure, please feel free to respond below and note the frequency and interval of the subsequent failures. Thanks in advance Again, apologies to those that will need to repost their replies. Hopefully it was only 2 or 3 individuals al

After much conversation and debate on Sport Touring.Net, and his own thoughts after reviewing just about every great road in California... "Pashnit" was asked to submit his own list of the "Top 5" motorcyling roads in California for Friction Zone Magazine. Well, it looks like they went ahead and published his story Tim! From Sport Touring.Net - Top 5 California Roads Pashnit.com Pashnit's California Motorcycle Roads

....aaaaaactually, the left hole is for drainage, and the right hole(with the raised turret) is the vent. However, if during an accident the bike is on it's side, it will TRY to drain through the vent That turret mates with a rubber grommet(black or red) under the cap. This preserves the air/fuel-tight seal when the cap is closed, but allows vapor to vent through the neck, up through the cap assembly, then back down through the rubber grommet, then "turret", and back down through the tank inside the encapsulated vent line, out the bottom nipple... and normally, away through the tip-over valve and vent line. ...however, if the tip-over valve is blocked/malfunctioning, this venting/breathing cannot occur, as there is no other outlet for the tank. And then we get the dreaded "tank suck" The left hole however is an overflow/drain, but is outside the sealed neck of the cap, so only drains overflow/water that has somehow sloshed into the area around the cap. I have a bunch of photos of these vents, drains, and the differences in the 2000-2002, and 2003+ tanks in my 2003 tank retrofit thread if interested. al

hrmmm, not likely.... as most are binned It's easy. Look up under your tank, and there are two vent/drain lines attached to the underside on the midline, about midway to two small silver nipples. One is a vent, one is a drain. Follow those lines. The drain will trail back toward the rear of the bike, where the vent line(which has the tip-over valve) goes either straight down, or back a bit as well, but generally is on the right side of the bike/tank. Anyway, the tip over valve is a small black cylinder, about 1.5 inches long, attached in-line with this vent line. It has nipples/barbs on each end that the line coming from the tank, and coming out of the valve to drain to the ground. You really can't miss it. If you look up under the nose of the tank above the right cylinder, you'll probably just see it dangling about under there. If not, if you lift the tank up, you will certainly find it post haste. Once found... rip it off , and replace said two pieces of hose with one length, or just junction the two pieces together with a bit of vacuum hose nipple to make a continuous hose. Hope that helps. al