al_roethlisberger

I wrestled with those things in my 2003 tank retrofit thread, and after many suggestions, below is the method that worked, and consistently works for me. I find that grabbing the hose, pulling it AWAY from the elbow, while with my other hand simultaneously pulling/pushing the gray collar AWAY from the elbow along with pulling the hose/fitting. It also seems to help to lubricate the fitting with WD-40 if perhaps it hasn't been removed in a long time. As Mike points out, surround the area under the fittings with a shop rag, as even though these are quick-disconnect fittings, they ARE NOT SELF SEALING , and the EFI loop will still be around 45psi, so it will squirt/leak fuel when you disconnect them. Hope that helps

Gordon is indeed "good people" ...he dug through his stack of Stucchi crossovers to find one that was as straight as possible BTW, after a handful of successful attempts with shop stand, you'll find you won't need any "aids" anymore .... and you'll be surprised how easy it gets over time, so much so, you'll sling that stand around and under the bike like it's nothing, while holding the bike with one hand, maybe balancing it with your hip al

....yeah, I was wondering on this one

....yeah, isn't that how it always goes? On the one hand, one hopes the problem never comes back, while on the other hand, you hope you can replicate it so as to deduce it's cause.... ...in the end, it never comes back, but is never quite solved.... leaving you unsure if it may pop up at some inopportune time This was somewhat what trying to sort out the vapor lock problem was like, and how I feel about this shift spring problem we've been hearing about. I'd feel much better if we had a definitive cause of the failure, and could just replace the part *sigh* Well, good luck tracking it down. My neutral switch has been on holiday for a few months now. Every now and again it checks in, but only to tease al

MG Cycle also has the "kits", which consists of banjo fittings, hose, etc.... so you can build your own length as needed. http://www.mgcycle.com/brakelines.html al

Yikes.... sorry to hear about that John ....this seems be a very common issue up in SF from what I've seen with other friends with bikes al

I like that polished alternator cover for $62 ...hrmmm al

Really? It's still listed as an accessory on the website I believe?? I had heard this suggested once before, but has anyone confirmed this? Barring their just discontinuing it for some odd reason, I can certainly see supplies in limbo what with Aprilia/MG's financial issues, but not just stopping the production of the part. It was, after all, a pretty popular option as far as I can tell I don't know about the CF alternator cover(although I have seen them), but the CF hugger is available at MG-Cycle: http://www.mgcycle.com/V11Sport.html Keep in mind that the alternator cover on these bikes takes quite a beating because our front fender is soooo short in the rear. CF already is a poor material for street bike applications(IMHO) in regard to durability, so a CF alternator cover's clearcoat will get eaten up fast. I've already repainted my standard gray aluminum alternator cover once this year from rock blasting... and that poor little chrome eagle.... just beat to hell al

I have no idea, but I'd also call MPH Cycles in Houston and Moto International in Seattle, and ask their service/parts guys. Both shops seem to go the "extra mile" in researching things, so could probably look it up for you(or measure it as best they can), if possible. al

The largest repository of PCIII maps are, in order: http://www.guzzitech.com/PCIII-Maps.html http://www.powercommander.com/706-211.shtml ...hope that helps al P.S. If you have any questions about the PCIII in regard to Guzzis, Todd at Guzzitech is your man. He is the MG community's resident Power Commander "guru" and more-or-less official emissary to Dynojet. He's the one that gets all the special runs made for older bikes. Anyway, drop him an email if you have any questions, and I bet he has a map, or suggestions for your application.

He has a Tenni.... the Scura, Tenni, and RM(others?) that have the CF sleeved La Franconi OEM exhausts do *not* have the "foot pad" that the aluminum skinned versions do. I don't know why, but maybe MG thought it looked more sporty. Unfortunately, although a lot of us try to use the Sport/LeMans as a "sport tourer" by adding bags, etc.... I think it is a bit of stretch to make it work well as a 2-up version so loaded. I know several people that have successfully toured 2-up on the bike with luggage for a reasonable distance, but I think the ideal maximum application for the bike with luggage is a single rider in "sport touring" mode. Beyond that, you have to start making concessions in comfort, power, etc... as the bike's dimensions just weren't designed from the outset to comfortably accomodate 2 people and luggage. That's just my opinion though. YMMV of course al

Tom, I'm well ahead of ya, see my post above, it has the link to that very thread Here it is again: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2528 Although I'm sure the dealer you're talking about is indeed a nice guy, I don't see how point #2 is in any way valid, as this part is designed(arguably well or not ) to NOT fall off under normal use, which of course includes a great deal of vibration Point #1 however, may unfortunately be more true, legal or not.... I myself still haven't heard back on a couple warrantee issues I've got outstanding. al

Well, I never heard back from the Speed Bleeder folks either when I sent them an email asking about an exchange, referencing this error, and Terry's correspondence as well. So I guess I'll just buy the correct size and be done with it. They are cheap. al

Well, first.... are you talking about a Stucchi x-over, or the OEM front x-over(in front of the alternator)? It sounds like the latter, and I am going to assume so.... So, with that in mind ... this is a relatively common problem unfortunately. If you do a search for "loose", "front crossover", or similar, I bet you'll find several threads on the subject. It seems that with the reintroduction of the "front x-over" in 2003(it was on several older Guzzis), many owners have found that the front x-over works loose and "flops" around, in a few cases damaging the alternator cover. The braided ribbon hanging out I suspect is the gasket packing that has worked out while your x-over was moving around after the clamp came off. Now, what's interesting, and the first I've ever heard... is that you are actually missing a clamp Although I haven't looked closely at one of the new front x-overs in a while, if they are anything like the OEM clamps on the rest of the exhaust system... yes, it should have been spot-welded on. So I don't know how it could have come off. This would definitely be a warantee issue... although these SS T-clamps are readily available at any exhaust shop. Normally, I would just tell you to re-tighten down the clamps, and ride.... but with one clamp actually gone... well... I'd say visit your dealer for a new x-over. That being said, also see threads like: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2528 Hopefully that helps a bit. This is a common problem with the 2003+ bikes, although it's not catestrophic. al FYI - the Stucchi x-over is an aftermarket brand for the OEM x-over that is located under the transmission, not the front x-over on the 2003+ models It looks like this:

I gave up on them.... they told me that a couple different times last year However, if they come through this time.... excellent I'm just not holding my breath al

Hrmm, that would make sense if the frame were narrower on the early carb Sports as Paul mentioned. But the late-model Sport1100 plates that I've got seem to be the same design/width as the V11 ones. Regarding the "sandwich hole"... that's what I thought you might have been talking about, but wasn't sure I've got the later cast versions. BTW, heard from Moto International today, and they said that after some research, they found that MG had used three different pin(threaded portion) sizes through the Sport/V11 series They said MGNA had the pins in stock, but the locknuts were on backorder for an unknown amount of time.... sheesh, you'd think they would be a "kit" al

Received from the Tank Slapper guys today: So it appears that they are indeed currently shipping the new larger version. In regard to the "dog ears" comment, this is a running joke I have with them, where I can't remember why I cut the corners off of the bottom 2 years ago when I made my larger center piece from one of the side knee pieces I think I may have buggered up one corner, and trimmed it to match on the other.... I dunno. But hey, it works, and it's up under the seat anyway al

Hrmm, that's a good question I exchanged email with them last March, and they were very interested in the modified larger piece I had made from one of the side pieces. They said they would make a new version based upon mine after they took it down to their local MG dealer later in April to double-check the fit. I would send them an email asking about the modified version, and just drop my name, before ordering if you are interested. I'm sure they would be happy to confirm whether the currently shipping the new version or not. I'll check in with them as well al

Tank Slapper Rocks It'll be fine.... The clear vinyl will discolor a bit where the seat rubs(if it touches), but you won't see it with the seat installed. After talking to them a while back, they requested that I send them a new design for the "middle" portion(I never used the side knee cutout portions) that is taller and protects more of the tank above and below the seat. They should have the new design out soon, if not already. But in regard to installation, patience and perseverance will prevail. Just make sure you keep the vinyl and tank wet, and that both are absolutely clean. Definitely keep a bucket of water handy to dip the vinyl into in case it gets dirty or too dry. You'll have to keep squeegeeing out the water, and patting it with a damp(but still absorbant) clean towel until it dries enough to allow the vinyl to cling. There will be a frustrating 5 or so minutes of "patting" after you've gotten all the air bubbles out, where it will be too wet to cling to the tank, until it finally dries just enough to cling perfectly. Just keep at it. Here is updated center I sent:

...interesting location, but of course that wouldn't work on the 2003+ tank. However, on a LeMans, there are plenty of fairing locations Poor Paul, everyone telling him to flush that Scura's clutch fluid every time he posts a picture of it Good thing you sold it! al

Sandwich Hole?? As far as I can tell, other than the pin size change, they are identical to the V11 Sport plates al

Ahh, interesing.... that's a good location for the sensor, and pricing for the other parts isn't too bad. Where was the gauge mounted on the Scura? al

....hrmmm al

Nice bars Who makes them Paul? How much? And why did you choose these over others? .... or were these the same ones Mike Stewart posted? al

True, but based on my frequent trips to the local "speed shop".... I think you could put together a temp kit for under $100-120, which would include the oil-filled gauge, braided SS teflon line, fitting, and a generic bracket. This kit, while well thought out, and admittedly nice, is a bit pricey IMHO. I think one would be paying quite a premium for the new dashboard al