FuelCooler

Very nice bike, and Michael is a good honest guy as well, but I had to pass. With shipping costs to NJ it makes more sense for me to buy local when/if another silver one comes for sale in the spring. Thanks again Michael for your help in showing it to me and my brother-in-law!

Hmmm, after a long absence, I very well may be interested in getting back in the game! This is about what I sold my silver 2000 for. I will be in LA in 3 weeks......

Complete V11 Scura screen with mounting hard ware. Excellent condition. Matt Black (factory finish). $220 with shipping (continental US only)

Excellent condition, comes with stock ohlins spring. $630 shipped (continental US only).

1. Custard Pie -Led Zepplin Why? Pagey! 2. Can't you hear me knockin' - Rollin' Stones Why? Keith Richards! 3. Back in Black - AC/DC Why? Angus Young! 4. I am the Walrus - Beatles Why? Why not? 5. Pump it Up - Elvis Costello Why? Like all the others on this list, I am compelled turn it up when ever it comes on the radio.

That would be 'Keeping the Faith'!

I agree. I agree.

Bravo!

Rossi's 1st year V5 Honda Moto GP bike! It was unbelievably good, and didn't appear too fragile. Plus it did good peel outs and pop-a-wheelies.

It was the calcium in the Redline oil, of course....... But seriously, yes Ratchethack, I think I know why it failed. The surface finish where the seal rides appears to lathe turned, not ground. My guess, with out a profilometer, is 30 micro. For comparison, I would estimate the surface finish of the needle bearing race at 5-10 micro. I simply think the seal lip wore out. If I had a lathe handy, I probably would have worked that area with some 600, 800, 1000 grit wet sand paper, which, in my experience can get you down to 10 micro (as long as it's not Rockwell C scale hard!). But a 26,000 mile change interval doesn't worry me too much, considering the relative ease of changing it. At my current 8,000 mile annual mileage, puts it at once every 3 years. Next time I go in there, I will plan some lathe access. I wouldn't be too surprised if it doesn't leak for 50,000 miles. Sometimes seals can get a bit of trash in them (from either side), and the seals have manufacturing tolerances as well. Anyway, I'm going for a nice long ride today. I've got to wear out these Pilot Powers and try the Diablo Stradas I have had sitting in my closet since February! Cheers, Steve

Thanks for the advice Dave, It is back together and after a couple of miles, no leaks. But it was taking about 50 miles to show before anyway (after I cleaned the splines and the cush drive). I will give it a better test tomorrow. If there could be an issue, it looks like too shallow of a seal installation would run the seal lip up into the race area of the shaft (I could see where the old seal was riding, and it was one or two millimeters away). I don't think it can go too deep, mine seemed to bottom out, squarely. And the seal went in with the 'spring' or open end toward the fluid, just like a typical engine / transmission shaft seal. I used a NAPA 14707 HMS4 'R' (Nitrile) seal. Less than $8.00. Counting the puller and new oil, less than $25 for the whole job. The bearing was installed flush, just like it was before I removed it. Also the correct seal is 7mm wide. I think the 8mm is more common, and NAPA asked if I could use the 8mm instead. No thanks, I could see that being the same issue as too shallow of an install. This job was relatively easy. If I had the proper puller it would have been a piece of cake. Plus I got to see how my gears and bearings were doing. Time will tell how I did, but I am pretty confident I got it right. If not, I ain't scared of doing it again! Cheers, Steve

I would try heating the nut with a torch. It may have been assembled with loctite red. If that doesn't work, I would try even more heat. Be careful with the paint on the swing arm. Good luck, I think you will get it off. Cheers, Steve

Updated the photos, as requested. The first ones I used Myspace to host! I used Photobucket this time. The seal will be here this morning, for reassembly. Cheers, Steve

By far the most important thing is that no one was hurt, and you will get to ride again. The cost will be dependent on how soon and how close to original you want your bike to be. Your first list, looks like $500. But I don't know about the riser. And you might be able to find good used stuff cheaper. The sump and shield???? I don't know. Someone will chime in. The bike can and will be fixed, and Coppa's are awsome machines! Again, I am glad you are fine. Cheers, Steve

Alright, The bearing is out! I found a $6.00 US gear puller at Advance Auto Parts. I cut and shaped the ends for a 52mm ID (with my dremel tool) and mounted them backwards as close together as possible. To do it, I just knocked the pins out with a hammer and punch, then re-drilled the puller arms, and re-assembled the tool. I put the tool behind the bearing, and wedged a piece of aluminum between the arms so they couldn't slip out from behind the bearing. Then I placed a piece of metal on top of the bevel box housing (the bolt circle edges) and started tightening the puller up and heating the housing with a propane torch (carefully). Pop! Pretty easy, once I figured it out. I didn't even put a scratch in the bearing. I took a photo of the end result, with the tools used. Cheers for now, Steve

Well, the pics aren't that nice. The spacer you see in the center of the open image should be dry. In the linked image, the opening in the center of the crown wheel assembly should be dry. Cheers, Steve

Ah, I didn't get the easy one this time. The leak is on the inner crown wheel seal. It is the one you need to change / pull the needle bearing to get to, not the big one you see when you pull off the rear wheel Well, I have it apart and I am going to try to post some photos of the leak path. To be brief , the fluid works its way past the inner seal, onto the bearing spacer that is between the crown wheel and the little needle bearing that sits next to the swing arm. Instead of working its way past that needling bearing, it works its way past the sealed (semi-sealed) axle bearing that is pressed into the crown wheel body, lubes the splines very nicely (Shockproof Heavy, in this instance) and deposits it's self on the rear wheel. I truely believed / hoped it was the outer seal, but to be sure, first I thoroughly cleaned all the grease (which is red, as well) out of and off of the splines and entire cush drive assembly and rear wheel. Then I put a very, very small amount of grease on the splines, reassembled everything, and went for a ride. Eventually (50 miles?) the wheel started to get oily again. Remove the rear wheel, and hey! Oil is puddling in the spline area, in the bevel box. The outer seal is dry as a bone. If I can get the photos posted, you will see Redline Oil where there shouldn't be any. I am going to the bearing supply house tomorrow to check on a seal and a bearing. I think I can borrow a puller. Let's see if the pics worked.. Steve

Have no fear, that's the way it is supposed to be, right up against the inner race of the left side bearing. The brake caliper bracket is the spacer! Steve P.S There is a small (and greasy) spacer that presses up against the inner race on the right side of the wheel as well. It is presses up against another bearing in the bevel box (which ultimately presses against the right side swing arm). This sometimes gets left out accidently and will keep the wheel from spinning as you try to torque the axle down.

He ain't lying. After a couple beers, he begs me for sex. His wife seems to get a kick out of it. And Brent, I'm a guy and 'no' still means no.

You guys are making me laugh so hard this morning that I smeared my nipple rouge!

I'm with Steve G. on this one. Sounds like a road crown wear pattern. Cheers, Steve

Dodo and GRad (current R1 and GS Adventure owners). Otherwise known as Jared and Glen.

Actually one of our buddies said he might buy a red one, and another has the hots for a Nero Corsa. We will see! Cheers, Steve P.S. - I edited my original post for humour clarification..