Baldini

Anyone here tried Pilot Power 2CT & Pirelli Diablo Corsa 111 on V11? Been using 2CT's & love them - grip & handle great, only quibble is front develops shoulder on edge when worn so transition is a bit harsh. Just wondering how the Diablo corsa compares overall - grip, handling, wear pattern? Fast road use pos rare trackday. Any experience of these tyres? KB

Dunno what you mean by "slow". V11 is a very relaxing bike to ride - on any open road you can stick it in top, stay off the brakes & do a good pace on very little throttle. I'm not suggesting lugging it with big throttle at low revs, just steady throttle at anything above 3k, enough to keep it rolling along, bike is happy, & makes good progress. Just keep everything real smooth, & you'll want to ride it all day. For decent acceleration, nip it down a couple gears & it's good too: you get two bikes for price of one - above 6k it's reasonably brisk. I never rode the multistrada, but older Ducatis I've ridden felt revvy compared with Guzzis. But V11's not a lugger like a Harley & not great in slow traffic. KB

Be careful Ben, - it can be a very hurtful experience - I don't have facebook cos I couldn't stand the rejection ...My own kids wouldn't let me be be their friend...

A good soaking in penetrating oil wouldn't do any harm.

Welcome back mdude. Be interesting to see what you turn out of the shed next spring Good luck!

I always mark with direction arrow, & tape up the bearing & drive splines to protect them, but I don't trust anyone! KB

Mine had a weep from timing cover gasket, just below engine mount bolt. Tightening timing cover screws cured it...check the simple solution first.

it just needs a detachable rotary mower. I'd have one.

Sure looks it! KB

You sure that's wise?

...or is this Guzzirider's dream machine?

I also looked at this when I got mine, & at the faces of the large washer & bolt holes. It appears to me, in the photos I have seen of fractured flywheels, that the failure is further in, at the edges of that washer & bolt holes rather than at the edge of the machined face. See: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3520&st=94 KB

V11 carries a lot of it's considerable weight at the back, & can feel a bit vague/prone to understeer into corners. High bars/moving weight back exacerbate that. It's harder to get your bodyweight over front wheel with sit-up handlebars: you need to load the front if you're going to push a V11 in turns, sat right up to tank. As said above, dropping triple clamps on forks & increasing rear ride ht will put some extra wt on front, quicken turn-in, & it will feel more planted. Is suspension set up set up right for your weight - if rear's sagging or it's bouncing around it won't help? Is it worse on bumpy going? I guess if you done racing set-up you know this stuff, but it seems a bit radical to go for new triple clamps before suggesting the obvious. Riding style? Guzzis work best ridden v smooth - but I see you have an old Tonti so you already know that... Fast-idle lever home? What's idle speed - not affected by turning bars? Nothing snagging? Was problem there before you fitted bars? If you're really going to push on, you might try stickier/faster-steering tyres. I have Pilot Sport 2CT's: good grip, good feedback & quick turn-in. KB

Hi Robert, Plastic tanks are pretty robust, but a collision can damage anything - plastic or metal: to my mind, it's not an issue. I never had a roadbike with a plastic tank before, but aside from you can't use magnetic tank bags, I never really notice it. Tank distortion relates, I believe, to ethanol-rich fuels & is a problem in the States. I understand there are moves to bring more ethanol into fuel here. I don't know much about this issue but to date have had no problems on UK fuel. That said I'd rather have a metal tank, but don't let a plastic tank put you off a great motorcycle! Like you I'm oldschool with technology - I fix most anything on my old pre-EFI/ECU/Sensor-laden bikes, but those bits frighten me. I took V11 to a man who set EFI up for me & I haven't had to touch it since. However it seems it's pretty straight forward & there appear to be plentry of ludites like us who can manage basic set-up of the EFI if they put their minds to it. From what you say, I think you'd like the V11 & the issues you mention shouldn't deflect you from a lovely rider's motorcycle. As Orangokie says, the 2003> models have a reputation for being slightly better sorted generally than earlier ones. Major differences: Gearbox recall work on some pre-2002 bikes, more relaxed geometry/extra bracing on post-2002 models, Ohlins (lovely things but some experience seals wearing very quick) & single-plate (occasionally problematic) clutches on various models, in-tank fuel pump on later bikes. There's a load of specs for different models in FAQ's, I think - or somewhere round here - just look around. I have a Scura which I still think is the nicest looking of all the V11's. If I was going to get another - & I wouldn't mind! - I'd look for a well cared for, enthusiast-owned post-2003 Ohlins model. Good luck, KB

Congratulations BFG!

That's lovely. Any link to complete build/spec details? KB

Best to disconnect battery.

welcome! that V11 looks a treat.

Hey John! Somehow missed your post above - Great to see you around again Been wondering what had happened to you. Best wishes, hope the house is working out. KB PS: RAM flywheel is indeed aluminium.

Guess you're working your way back to Guzzi by degrees. Does sound like the new Grisos are pretty well sorted from Go. I think Aprilia influence is gaining the upper hand. Welcome back to the fold, or leastways, the outer fenceline. KB

:D :D That cheered me up a bit. Thanks, BFG. KB

knowledge is power KB

Selector forks are 3,4,5 & 6 in this diagram: Pins engage with rings 12 & 14 of selector mechanism. Forked ends sit on sliding collars(also known as sliding dogs).

Those are the selector forks, the pins facing you engage with the selector mechanism. Other ends sit on sliding collars (numbered 2 & 8 in diagram) which they move laterally to engage gears (by meshing the teeth [dogs] on their sides with those on the sides of the gears). To put trans in neutral, centre these sliding collars (dogs) in their spaces on the upper & lower layshafts: ie. each to be equidistant from gear on both sides. KB

If neutral is selected on selector mechanism, you should also select neutral on the trans. You can do this by setting spaces between sliding dogs & gears equidistant - so that sliding dogs are centred in their location on shafts. From your photo I take it the factory punch marks on the seeger rings indicate first gear, & you have selected neutral by checking at detente, then marked rings in ink? It's a while since I've seen inside one of these & I can't recall if factory punch marks indicate first or neutral - mine didn't have any. KB