Baldini

May be a mismatch between Scura pushrod & new clutch/centre button. When I replaced the stock Scura clutch w a RAM unit, I had to use original centre button as RAM one wouldn't work (centre was too deep). They are different depths, so pushrod was effectively too short to operate the clutch.

Hope the rider is recovered. What a ******* mess. I think emry covers it - learn to ride off road to develop ability & understand bike's behaviours & capabilities at extremes. Practice; take some lessons; ride to your abilities. Seen plenty of riders fall off cos they weren't prepared to lean it further.Trust your tyres (presuming you have decent tyres). I never was taught to "countersteer" - it just came naturally when learning to ride - never thought about it. Lean the bike over & it'll turn - I never really think of steering a bike with the bars - although I know counter steering initiates the turn, it's of a piece with shifting bodyweight & other inputs.

Scud, If you're in Stelvio area, you might be interested in popping in to see the World Cup Downhill (mountain bike) in Val di Sol, v close by. DH Racing Saturday. It's an impressive show. Have a great trip

02 Scura: My OEM shock spring is 85 (it's marked 1091-26/85 L511). Can't confirm wt of OEM fork springs, but presumed also 85. Stock springs F&R were way too soft for me. I'm 175-180lbs (UK - dunno is that same pounds as you have in Oz or USA?). I replaced with 100 both ends, which were fine, but I'd probably've been better off w 110. Here's an old thread on this: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=6534&hl=%2Bohlins+%2Bsprings+%2Bpart+%2Bnumbers+%2Bstiffer

I think brake pedal benefits from a return spring. I used a bit of old inner tube, but as I recall, others have done job more elegantly.

Scud: Steel Flywheel???

I have a T3 based bike with 950 Spada (flat top) pistons using LM11 heads/36mm carbs & I love it. It's real low compression, but the upside of that is: it's real relaxing to ride. And forgiving. Pulls like a train - well, a small train.

Further to Guzzimeister's post - Scura ate a couple of rear wheel bearings & I found bearing spacer measured short. I think stock spacer can distort if axle nut is overtightened. Guzzi give a tightening torque for spindle of 120Nm - to be measured "at the housing side". Why would torque measure different at either side - friction through the assembly? I made a stronger spacer. Phil - if bearings are driven home in the housing by pressing on outer race only, then if spacer is too long, inner races would be misaligned, same as if spacer were too short?

One thing to watch for when pumping the forks to get all the old oil out: there's a little valve needle that'll pop right out of the long, small-bore damper tube & get lost on the floor if you aren't careful - watch out for it.

czakky, for alignment see post #9 Regardless of factory paint marks, the driveshaft that came on my Scura could never be properly aligned. Best I can get it UJs is about 5degrees off parallel. If you move it to the next spline to correct, then it's 5degrees off the other way! (I'm guessing measurements - if the splines are at 16* then mine must be more like 8* out either way?). Whatever, it appears to me that one or both of the driveshaft halves have been attached to UJ at the wrong angle. As I recall, this has been discussed before here. Then, someone went to the trouble of cutting & re-welding the parts to correct. My new, very expensive driveshaft looks to be a couple of degrees out, at best. Pete, can I assume that UJs in parallel plane is ideal & failing that, the closer to parallel the better? So 2degree out is better than 5? ie. is it worth remaking my new driveshaft to be bang-on? Cheers. Happy & peaceful Christmas to all. KB

The UJ's should sit in the same plane - so if you look at drive shaft end to end, UJ surfaces are parallel. I'd post a pic but I dunno how anymore (does the pic have to be already on line?) Does this help? (Driveshaft w UJ either end viewed from above) > XXXXXX XXXXXX XXXX _________________________________ XXXX XXXX O_________________________________O XXXX XXXX XXXX XXXXXX XXXXXX

The flywheel is the part that breaks, yes. Camn, that figures - I suspect that Scura & Tenni clutches are same, & that RM had (at least some) different components. Some parts in the Scura clutch are stamped RAM, some not. Parts differ from the RAM aftermarket clutch. Story I've heard is that Guzzi sourced some parts of the Scura clutch elsewhere. I've never seen an RM clutch, but I wonder if it is a complete RAM unit. Docc, in my parts book (date of issue 2001, covering V11 Sport & Rosso Mandello), those numbers are transposed: RM flywheel is 01 06 70 40, V11 Sport (steel) one is 04 06 70 00.

Don't rely on the paint marks Guzzi put on - mine was out even tho lined up w paint marks.

Although Rosso Mandello was single plate, I have never heard of one of these breaking flywheel in this way. RM was earlier build & I have wondered if it had different clutch parts to Scura & Tenni (possibly full RAM build, where Scura & Tenni may include parts of more dubious origin).

As I recall oil seep onto x-over v common. I checked all cover screws torqued up & swapped to Redline Shockproof Heavy in gbox - no more oil on x-over. KB

Baldrick, if that is indeed you, can you post contact details please. KB

Scura: Replaced original clutch/flywheel assembly at 19,000 miles with a RAM single-plate unit. Original clutch was working perfectly, no symptoms of problems. I replaced it because I'd seen too many pix like Fotoguzzi's above (pattern always the same, cracks around centre at washer edge, radiating outward) & knew bikes which had flywheel break up in this way. On removal, original clutch showed no undue wear or damage to any components. Flywheel showed no cracking, but I would do same again, every time. Cheers.

Problem when I fitted RAM kit was original Scura pushrod wasn't long enough to disengage RAM clutch. Widths were compatable - & pushrod seated fine, it just didn't work the clutch. I replaced RAM centre button with the original Scura one which gave a shorter distance between slave cylinder & pushrod seat, & that worked fine.

Footgoose, I like the faster spin-up & light change of single plate, but sure it won't do the mileage of a twin-plate & isn't as robust. If those are the qualities you're after, I think it would be better to go to a twin plate, as others have done - there's not a huge difference in use, as you'll know from your own bikes? KB

The twin-plate & single-plate clutches are completely different designs. Twin-plate uses coil springs, single-plate uses diaphragm spring. Far as I know no parts are interchangeable. Never heard of a steel flywheel to fit the single-plate clutch. If you replace with a twin-plate, you will need to change clutch hub too & maybe pushrod too? There's loads of threads dealing with this here. Twin-plate assemblies can be lightened considerably. KB

Complete kit. Some years ago now, but came from stock in a few days. Cost about £400 or perhaps £450 (UK). There's a load of stuff in old posts about this. I don't seem able to post a link in this reply, but search "Pictures of my exploding flywheel" + "Ferguzzi" I had to use original centre button from Scura in place of the one came w kit (clutch pushrod wouldn't engage w that one). Also, my kit came w/o bolts to fit to flywheel which meant I had to disassemble. Agostinis were not helpful in addressing either of these problems. KB

I replaced Scura clutch assembly (same as Tenni) with a RAM single-plate obtained new from Agostinis.

Second that . First time ever I was near a top fuel dragster start up - not so much "hearing" it as feeling the whole world shaken around you. Visceral. Thinking, how could that much energy & violence be contained by cases, screws & bolts.

Do you know mileage to be correct? Operating mech/adjustment? Friction plate ...or... Some Tenni/Scura have had flywheel crack around centre & fall apart - a search here should show plenty of info on this. Given the known flywheel issues, I would stop riding it until you figure the problem. You can remove engine or you can remove trans to get at clutch - I removed engine cos I thought it was easier. You can replace with RAM kit (I did), or get a twin plate unit as used in rest of series (most do). There's a current thread on this. Search Scura clutch (same clutch as Tenni AFAIK) will show up loads of stuff on all of this.

Guzzrider of this parish had Marzocchis sorted by Maxton & as I recall he was well-pleased with the result. Pretty sure he also had a V11S with Ohlins forks so may be worth a pm to him, he is a rare visitor here these days. KB