Baldini

No we don't. Envy is a terrible thing. Croatia to win it. KB

Carry a cut down key for one socket head screw in the gbox sideplate. KB

Problem when drifting out bearing is maintaining purchase on bearing edge. I've found inserting a wooden wedge to hold drift in place against opposite bearing works OK. There was a description of a tool made up from a piece of slotted pipe, but I never tried it. I made spacer w/o locating flanges - it's more difficult to locate axle, but a doddle to drift brngs... KB

don't think so. mine never had one & has pretty beat up rad. been thinking to put something on to protect it.... KB

Thanks for the company! Enjoyed it, hope everyone got home OK. I did like Guy, & avoided mway much as I could, found A6 good fast road mostly deserted cos it mimics run of mway. Good place, good people, good food & beer....& Gary, I owe you a pint! Take it easy, all. KB

Hopefully I'll be there tomorrow evening. I put it together & it seems to work.... KB

Never needed heatgun, impact wrench or loctite. Not sure which bolt Emry means Ohlins tool to undo fork tops is expensive but good. Put a large diam washer cut w a slot to hold down preload tube under locknut whilst fitting top nuts....& a small aly bar to leaver against when removing seals, so as not to damage tubes. NB: WATCH OUT NOT TO LOSE THE LITTLE VALVE THAT'LL TRY & FLY OUT THE TOP OF OF LONG DAMPER TUBE WHEN YOU PUMP TO PURGE OIL. KB

I was just replacing these bits.... The correct screw from Guzzi is only 18pence...cheapest price I ever paid for any Guzzi bit...on the other hand, the switch costs over £20 from Guzzi (so watch how much you tighten the locknut on the end of it....yes - I didn't)... KB

Pete, Thanks mate, I thought you'd forgot about that. But no! Guzzirider here managed to find a good P9 caliper for me, so I'm going to put that on. I rebuilt it. People say it'll work fine. Thanks again, hope you're keeping well. Cheers, Keith

Why do you use Polaroids? Cos of their particular qualities - grain/colour etc? I used to do a bit with the instant format & with 35mm polaroid & liked them also. Nice to hear someone using that stuff in the age of photoshop. KB

I am very sorry to hear that. I only knew him from his posts here but he seemed to be a man who knew what he was about. Condolences to all his family & friends. KB

Check also areas around front (timing chest) engine mount bolts for signs of oil seepage. This could indicate a knackered gasket or a cracked case. They seem vulnerable here when crashed. KB

Thanks Roberto. I will drop it in to have checked as you suggest. It is on 19 or 20k miles. I was surprised how well the friction plate seemed to be holding up - I dunno what the original depth was but it was only about half mil off the new RAM one - I heard they wore real quick KB

Roberto, A chap I know who works with vintage cars sprayed some stuff on the flywheel then some other stuff which apparently was ferrous of some sort & then waved a magnet behind it - nothing appeared. Then he hung it in the air & tapped it, it rang pure & true & he said it wasn't cracked. I wasn't entirely convinced & one day I'm going to drop it in to an engineering shop to check again. What convinced me that I wasn't going to put it back in was that it showed very slight linear marks at exactly the same places that yours & others showed up cracks - around the outside edges of the centre bolts & radiating outwards. Agostinis have told me that Guzzi sourced some parts from RAM (spring plate has RAM imprint) but others (inc the flywheel) from elswhere. They acknowledge there's an issue with Scura clutches & say they have never seen anything similar in a RAM unit. I'd be interested to see a Rosso Mandello clutch. RAM unit? The Scura ring gear is noticeably lighter than the RAM. KB

SNAP! I sent this pic to Agostinis & they say they are consulting RAM about the issue. Agostinis were helpful given that I've had the kit sat for a year but they really thought I must've put it together wrong. I wondered myself, but try as I did, I couldn't find a way to do that. It's odd that some have this problem & some don't But we're only talking about a couple mm that make the difference. My guess is that someone got the centre buttons mixed up.... KB

Well weren't you the lucky ones.... After a lot of pissin about assembling & taking apart & measuring & reassembling I removed the centre button from the RAM diaphragm spring & replaced it with the button off the original Scura plate which has a shallower recess. Hey presto: working clutch...not road tested yet but it seems OK. Pushrod location was correct diameter but it just sat too deep & pushrod wasn't reaching it before it ran out of movement KB

Guy, I'll get there if I can. Got a couple of problems getting bits to work on dismantled bikes. Keith

Glad to hear no-one's hurt. I'm sorry to hear about your brother - when was that? Can be very hard to adjust. I dunno re getting a different bike. Whatever you ride, if you're riding hard enough for what you're on to make a real difference on the road you're already past good sense. Was it downshifting you overrevved it ? cos otherwise presumably the rev limiter would have cut it? Which gbox seal? Good luck! Take it easy. KB

Gary, sorry to hear that. The little buggers are all over the place round here. glad to hear you're OK. Keith

Thanks for response Pete. I've emailed your mate John. 8mm pushrod? - is a different diameter to others?? ...& if it's a different diameter I can't swap pushrods w/o changing at cylinder end also? Bugger it. So answer is to get Agostinis send me a different centre button, heat spring & swap buttons... PeterD/S251 - is yours now sorted by that method? Thanks, KB

HELP! :A few moths ago I purchased a RAM low intertia kit, the whole kit from Agostini, for my SCURA. Recently gave to a well trusted and relable workshop to install, but alas, it does not fit. The centre button for the pushrod is about 50mm too far away and the locator the wrong diameter for the push rod. Agostini sent a new centre button but it is still 10mm too short to activate the clutch.... Tried to get another kit but I have been told that MG Cycles can no longer get the ful kit for the SCURA either. Agostini "stongly" reccomeded that the mechanic just fit the supplied clutch kit, after "replacing the push rod centre". Apparently they heat the spring that carries the locating button just a bit and punch it out and loctite the new centtre to suit the SCURA push rod. To cut a long story short, the Agostini supplied RAM kit sems to engange and dissengage the drive. NO TEST RIDE YET. The fluid in the system seems to take up a bit more and push rod seems to take up the pressure. We will see soon after the road test but all seems as per Agostini's advice execpt that the RAM KIT locating button needed changing and the RAM supplied sleeve gear did not fit the SCURA. PeterD S251. Above was posted while back. Did you resolve issue Peter? I am having similar problem I think. I have Agostini supplied unit also for my Scura. I was wary cos of your post but parts looked OK (appeared v close to Scura unit), but when assembled, clutch cylinder does not activate clutch, just pumps out pushrod til it stops. It feels like pushrod is not long enough. Does anyone know - is Scura pushrod shorter than other V11's? It may be this kit is for a normal twin plate V11 & it would work with a pushrod for a normal twin plate V11? Any insights greatly appreciated. KB

Is it possible to remove clutch actuating unit from the gearbox backplate w/o seperating gearbox from frame ? it doesn't look like it as brace strut is in way. Thanks. KB

Can anyone confirm correct torque setting for 8mm bolts (hex head screws) holding starter ring gear to clutch on RAM? Thanks KB

So do I! I'd say that Laverdo fits right in. Very sweet. KB

Thanks Martin! KB