Baldini

Thanks Paul. I have motor out but trans & s/a are still in place, going to pull the rod out from clutch end, just checking no location problems when putting it back in...ie: no seals to drop off or location piece at piston end tilting etc. KB

Have motor/trans split. It appears from parts book that I can remove & replace clutch pushrod from clutch end w/o losing location on any seals or it being difficult to relocate at piston end. Is that right? I want to fit a new pushrod seal. Thanks, KB

No, I don't think so.

Renato, Are forks/triple clamps/axle all aligned properly? Could be too much oil, but like ratchet says, best to start at beginning with proper measurement of oil. As said - you won't necessarily have expelled all the old oil when you drained the tubes. Did you remove & dismantle forks when you did oil? KB

Another advantage of carrying a chainsaw would be that, should you break down, you could cut the vehicle into manageable pieces & carry it on to your destination, or bury the pieces behind a nearby shrub to keep them safe for later (bearing this in mind you might also consider carrying a spade or a pick depending on the geology of the terrain you are travelling thru). KB

huh! If Guzzi didn't make bearing spacers out of Mozarella, us apes wouldn't get ourselves into trouble... I always tightened axles by feel, & good & tight - never had a problem before. Now I remade a heavier spacer I can still do it monkey style. And...Why does manual spec torque measured at housing side ? Given axle head/nut is tightened end to end thru inner brng races & spacers what difference does it make which end you measure torque? Is it that axle itself is clamped by internals before full torque is reached at nut? Cheers, KB

Please keep us informed! KB

Looks like a good bike to ride. Look forward to seeing specs, but meanwhile what is front wheel/brakes/forks? Good luck at the races! what else in class? KB

"Jim Blomley of JB Racing and Quill Exhausts based in Golborne ( halfway down the A580 Manchester-Liverpool road) requires the use of a V11 Sport for a few days to measure up etc, he can pick it up within 60 miles of Golborne, in return for the loan the bike will get a free service or be dyno tested for free, ring Jim on 01942 721744 or E-mail sales @jbracing.co.uk" This from MGCGB site. Mine's still in bits so wouldn't be much use. Jim Blomley's done a lot of stuff with Guzzis in the past. KB

it's a blessing that there are those who will save us from ourselves On most roads with any kind of twists, accessing the sort of outputs you're talking about in any competitive manner make it a quick road to casuality. ALdad - I think, before your question was consumed in the deluge, you got your answer - it seems breathing; pipes & fueling, make a little more power & clean torque curve, after that; head work & cams...& diminishing returns. Before that tho, sorting chassis/suspension, tyres, & brakes make what power V11 has more usable more of the time. Depends if you want power for straightline only or useable speed thru twisties. I see nothing wrong with anyone getting as much as they can out of their own bike. KB

Thanks Steve, i've emailed him. F09 is difficult to get hold of. KB

Mac, I think he's just celebrating that his Scura's there. KB

you don't want a Triumph cos it's British & heavy...so you're going for a Guzzi which is Italian & ...er... ? Try before you buy if you can (& as long a ride as you can get, preferably on open road rather than town), Guzzis an aquired taste, but once aquired, a lifelong one. V11/1100Sport is a bigger, heavier, faster bike than Nevada... Welcome & good luck! KB

1. Rossi 2. Toseland 3. (joint) Melandri, Edwards Them youngsters - all they got is... youth...talent...speed.. skill, money, women, good looks...their own hair & teeth......pah.... Go the ol gits! KB

Greg, I'm advised that the stock F08 (which is what I have, tho I'm looking for a F09) caliper doesn't work w/ stock m/cyl. I need a smaller bore. Either change caliper or change m/cyl... thanks, KB

Maybe I'm missing something but....perhaps you just found the nature of the bike. Cos crank runs down bike back to front, when it spins up it (along w/flywheel) exerts a force. On right handers on throttle it'll pull you down into the corner, on left handers it'll feel like it wants to sit up. Chop the throttle in a left hander & it'll fall in more, chop it in a right hander & it'll lift...I think i've got that the right way round but don't be too sure, I'm trying to picture it in my head....try it & see...carefully. Take off over a humpback bridge & it'll want to spin round the crank....well slightly...Big twin Guzzis have always been like this. It helps to settle the bike on an even throttle thru corners. Learn how the bike responds to throttle leant over & you can use to adjust your line - but Guzzis respond best to smooth riding. There's no such thing as good BT20s!!! If you ride in a sporting manner get some better tyres at earliest oportunity! And - welcome to Guzzis! KB

Thanks Greg. Yes, I've been told BMW shops here supply rebuild kits. Neither of the Guzzi shops I normally use carry them - one saying 2yr back order, the other just not interested. Guzziology mentions I can use a master cyl(3066 6060) from a 96-97 Cali 1100 - would you know is this a direct replacement to T3 type using same mounting point? I know it is remote reservoir & I can find somewhere to put that. Thanks again. KB

I know there's some members have 70's Lavs/Dukes, so I'm posting here. I'm delinking brakes on T3/LM11, stock rear F08 caliper will not work well with std m/cyl. I am looking for a F09 Brembo caliper, preferably new as I'm told rebuild kits are no longer available. Brembo have discontinued this type. I think these were used on some Laverdas & pos Ducatis, so was going to try outlets for those bikes but does anyone know which models used them? Thanks, KB

Hendrix was a one-off. For me - no-one else comes close. Fluent...like he was the sound...like he felt he could go anywhere...& did. KB

Go for best condition/miles/availability regardless of exact model...better to get something in really good order & not worry about exact model too much - performance is similar, parts are endlessly interchangeable even between sports & sit up models. Regard LM I/II as pretty much same, other than LMI is much more collectable if that interests you. Along with detail differences, II has big fairing, I has cockpit fairing - interchangeable. Both are 850 roundbarrel engines - only issues compared to later square barrel is styling & you can't increase bore as much cos of closer studs. LMIII is still 850 different styling/bodywork & first of square barrels. LMIV/V are up to 950 & different styling again. Only big issue is 16" wheel/brakes. KB

Have a look on www.guzzitech.com - Todd Egan there has a V11 motor in a Tonti frame. KB

Dunno that LMIV is one to go for if you're into collectability - look at LMI, or LMII roundbarrels or LMIII. Don't pay over the odds - LMIV & V's are among the cheapest big block Guzzis over here - A LMI will fetch three times what aLM IV will. IMV, Guzzi's focus, especially styling, had really slipped by the LMIV. But, if you're after a bike to ride, like all Tonti frame Guzzis, much is interchangeable between models so you can make of it what you will. Here, LM1V came w/ 16" front wheel & smaller (270 rather than 300mm) rotors. I rode a Spada w/ 16" & didn't like it at all (Dr John raced a 16" LMIV with considrable success tho...). Dunno if 16" was worldwide - your bike may have been converted to 18" - many are - & Guzzi did that themselves on LMV. Trouble is they left smaller discs too.... Linked brakes work great, tho they take some getting used to off of conventional systems. As others say, parts are available generally, there's still specialist shops & once sorted, they'll run forever! Use the bits you like, sling the bits you don't! Tonti Guzzis are great bikes to own & ride. KB

When you say 50mm & 10mm too far away, Is there 50/10mm mm space between end of pushrod & retainer cup it acts upon (centre button?) when lever pulled in (when clutch should be disengaged)? How are you measuring that? What is the difference between the kit part & the part Agostini later supplied? The retainer cup on my kit is pressed into centre of spring plate, & not removable. Are you sure kit is assembled correctly? Did it come w/parts diagram? I bought a RAM unit from Agostinis for Scura about a yr ago, but still haven't got round to fitting it. I have bike apart, but haven't checked any measurements. I fitted a RAM unit to my Tonti a few yrs back & the hole that located the pushrod in the retainer cup was much wider diameter than the pushrod. I was concerned that if the pushrod slopped about at the clutch end it would wear on the clutch centre hub...but I asked around at the time & heard it wasn't a problem. It's been in a while & still works.... Part # for Guzzi single plate spring as fitted to Rosso Mandello (I don't have ref for Scura) is: 01 08 40 40. I think a couple of people here have fitted RAM kits to Scuras? KB

In MCN: 2 x 400 Honda top ends, homemade c/case, h/made frame. 120HP. Uses V35 trans, wheels & brakes, & (looks like) forks...eek! well it's not road registered & it doesn't sound like it's going far. Bloke who built it is a Dutchman & his son says it makes "a terrible noise" running thru the 8 open pipes. It's people like Tjitze Tjoelker make this world a sunnier place. Beautiful! KB

! Your friend is a lucky man. KB